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Gambles of a Southerner 



IN 



Three Continents. 



CONTAINING 



Graphic Descriptions of the Peoples living along the line of his 
travels, with their Habits, Customs, Manners, Modes of Living/ 
Religion, and General Phases of Civil Life; How Trav- 
elling is done in the East, and a glance at Modern 
Civilization in Europe. 
The Condition and Progress of Missionary Operations in Egypt, 
Palestine, Asia Minor, and Europe are considered. 



w 




P. L. GROOME, A. B. 




GREENSBORO 

THOMAS BROTHERS, BOOK AND JOB PRINTERS. 

1889. 



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DEDICATED 

<%U v,<m/m upm whom km f'Mm ike hwrdem tf m* 

,Utm ikem ¥>V#*g <x*d feelihem • **»* 

:i*9 maa, ■Xd&- 

•me to make ike trip at att,md 
>/ mdtxred ike long w, er 

IS ' ': I 



PREFACE. 



It was not my purpose to publish a book of 
travels, until some weeks after returning from 
abroad, nor does this volume come forth " in re- 
sponse to the urgent request of a host of friends." 
But a small per cent, of the matter now presented 
appearing in the Raleigh Advocate in the form of 
Foreign Correspondence, some of which was re- 
printed by several papers of the State, and finding 
more than enough material on hand to fill many 
hundred pages, it has been condensed in the form 
now offered. 

No other could preach my sermon, nor record 
my observations. Some things here presented 
have been noticed before ; but few of them in any 
one book, many of them in no other book. 

The world is moving, and this book contains 
the impressions made upon an American and a 
Southerner in 1889. 

Greensboro, N. C, Sept. 25th. 



CONTENTS. 



CHAPTER I. 

Pleasant Garden to New York ,.,.-, '7 

Leaving home. — Last familiar face. — Greensboro. — Wash- 
ington City. — New York.— Messrs. Brown Bros. — A 
difficulty. — Brooklyn Bridge. — Cooper Institute. — 
Stock Exchange. — XL S. Treasury Building. — Sambo 
in New York. — Polite people done smoking on the 
streets. — A narrow escape. — Confidence men, 

CHAPTER II. 

Crossing the Sea 25 

New Experince. — Looking for Security. — How we got 
Adrift. — In a storm. — La Gascogne. — Sea Birds. — 
The Sea the Sea. — The Passengers. — How Sketching 
is Done. 

CHAPTER III. 

France 31 

Paris. — Sunday Election-day, — How the French Do. — 
La Bastile. — Hotel de Ville. — Palaise Royal. — Liter- 
ary Supplies. — They Read — Churches. — Notre Dame. 
St. Sulpice. — Holy Sepulchre. — The Louvre. — Paint- 
ings. — Statuary. — Antiquities. — Place du Carrousal. — 
Elysees Champs. — Poilpot's Panorama. — Siege of 
Paris in Franco-Prussian War. — Arc d'Etoile. — Hos- 
pital des Invalides. — Tomb of Napoleon. — Pere la 
Chaise. — Jardin des Plants. — The Markets. — Draught 
Horses. — Street Cars. — Missionary Work in Paris. 

CHAPTER IV. 

Paris to Turin 40 

Shambles of Paris, and where their supplies come from. — 
The Sapped system.— La Seine. — Ye Banks and Braes. 
— An Unknown tongue. — Lac Bourget. — How model 
roads are made. — A lonely Sentinel. — Do the children 
pay tax or Strangers ? — Custom-house officials. — Con- 
tinental Cars, How equipped and managed. 



CHAPTER V. 

Pisa, Florence 45 

Pisa, new and old.— Duomo- Galileo's Lamp.— Baptis- 
tery.— Campo Santo.— Leaning Tower.— The river 
Arno— Cultivation of the Land.— White Heifers for 
Teams. 
Florence.— Donkies for Carriage-horses.— Dogs muzzled. 
Ladies and Cigars— News-stands— Papacy becoming 
Effete in Italy.— Catholic worship like bees swarm- 
ing. — The Duomo.— Santa Croce.— Necropolis of 
Genius.— Art Galleries.— Dr. Buckley.— Pitti Palace. 
— Lazzaroni.— Some moralizing on Capital, Labor, &c. 

CHAPTER VI. 

Rome 54 

St. Peters.— The Vatican.— Sistine Chapel.— Michael 
Angelo.— Raphael.— Sons of Rome.— Tasso's Tomb.— 
Colosseum.— The Forum, and the Iconoclast.— Tri- 
umphal Arches.— The Churches.— Relics of Saints.— 
Prison of Paul and Peter,— Scala Sancta— School of 
the Catholic Prophets— Outside Pressure Modifying 
the Church.— Papal Rome and Zeit Geist.— Respon- 
sibility of the Church of Rome and how met.— 
Bishop Wilson.— The Average Italian. 

CHAPTER VII. 

Naples 63 

Situation.— Beggars.— Merchants.— Fed by Travelers.— 
High Land Rent.— National Museum.— Pompeii, Her- 
culaneum and Vesuvius.- John Gilpin Ride through 
Torre Annunziata.— Guide Holding Horse's tail.— Im- 
minent Peril, Red-hot Boulders flying down the 
Mountain.— Courage Fails.— A desperate Venture.— 
Beef-steak and Maccaroni, a Horse-trade.— Brindisi. 
or Stag's Horns.— Terminus of the Appian-Way. 

CHAPTER VIII. 

Egypt 74 

Alexandria.— Up the Nile.— The Soil.— Mud-towns.— How 
they Travel. — City Life, Stores, Dress. — How the Peo- 
ple are Watered. — Sakyah and Shadoof.— Topography 
of Nile Valley. — Fertility, Population, Stock. 



Cairo. — Tne Citadel. — Mosque of Mahomet Ali. — Ma- 
hometan Worship.— How Christians do when visit- 
ing a Mosque.— Joseph's Well.—Saut du Mameluke.— 
Cheops.— A visit to the Top and Interior.— Caught in 
the Net of the Arabs. 



CHAPTER IX. 

Farther Up the Nile 83 

Haste Makes Waste, Travelling.— Nice Companions.— 
Copts. — Floating Stations. — What Arabs Eat.— A 
"Blind Man Eloquent."— A Blind Boy More Elo- 
quent. — Products of the Country. — Thebes. — Tombs 
of the Kings— Necropolis — Ramesiuuu — Memnonium. 
Monstrous Monoliths.— Statue of Rameses the Great. 
— Medinet Habou. — Theodosius, Destroyer of Hea- 
thenism and Art.— Luqsor.— Oldest Temple on Earth 
and Tallest Obelisk.— 3064 B. C— Egyptians of Old 
Like Moderns. 



CHAPTER X. 

Down the Nile to Cairo 90 

Of the River, Boats, Cargo, Birds, Thermometer.- — On, 
where Moses was Educated. — Trying to Escape Don- 
key-boys. — Flight.- — Pursuit. — Capture. — Death, Bu- 
rial without a Coffin. — Another Funeral Procession. 
Haggar Ali, Ten Widows. — A Juggler. — Boulac Mu- 
seum.--.Sethi I, whose Daughter found Moses, Ra- 
meses, Pharoah of the Oppression. "In the Resur- 
rection morning we shall rise !" 

CHAPTER XI. 

Suez Canal 100 

Lingering glance along Moses' track, Joseph. — Suez Ca- 
nal. — Ismailla Simoon. — On foot in the Desert-Indig- 
nation meeting.- — Dredges.- — Port Said. — Plow we 
didn't bulldose the S. S. Co. — A live town, Frank and 
Arab. — Grown Women at five. — Gambling Hells. — 
How a love of Backsheesh spoiled one Arab's Mouth. 
' Highway of the Nations. — Missions. 



10 

CHAPTER XII. 
Odds and Ends 105 

Footmen.— Canals Made Without a Spade.— Bazaar Day. 
—Dervishes.— Arab Gratitude.— Oppression. — Cab- 
baging in American.— In Diplomatic Circles. — How 
Donkey Boys "Get There." 

CHAPTER XIII. 
The Oldest Seaport Ill 

Simon the Tanner's House.— -Expectation on Tiptoe.- — 
Apprehensions. — Rest. 

CHAPTER XIV. 

From Joppa to Jerusalem 116 

David's Fete miscarries.— Jerusalem. — Excursion to Jeri- 
cho, Dead Sea and Jordan.— Bethlehem, House of 
Bread.— Mt. Calvary, the two Theories. — Dr. Merrill's 
Statement.— Church of the Holy Sepulchre.— Having 
the Form of Godliness, but denying the Power.— 
Episcopalians. — Missions. 

CHAPTER XV. 

How One Travels in Palestine 133 

Dragoman, Donkey Boy, Routes. — Last look in David's 
City.- -Climate.— Soil.— Political situation. 

CHAPTER XVI. 
Dead Sea, Marsara, Hebron 141 

From Jerasalem down to Jericho, Elisha's Rendezvous, 
Herod the Great's Headquarters. — Elisha's Fountain, 
Gilgal. — As Bedawins Do. — Jordan. — Dead Sea.— Cli- 
matic Extremes. — Flora. — St. Saba, Miraculous Palm 
Tree, Lazy Priests. — A Room full of Skulls. 

Jerusalem to Hebron, Solomon's Pools, Hebron's Foun- 
tains, Abraham's Grave. — Jacob's Funeral. — Abra- 
ham's Oak. 



11 

CHAPTER X\ r II. 

In and About Jerusalem 148 

Holy Sepulchre again. — Mt. Zion. — The Upper Room. — 
House of Caiaphas.— Jews' Wailing Place. — Character 
of the Wall there— Cyclopean. — What their Wailing 
is. — Jewish Sabbath. 

CHAPTER XVIII. 

Mt. Moriah. Gethsemane 165 

Temple Area, How made, Mosque of Omar.- Sakhra or 
Foundation Stone, Center of the World, Mohammed's 
marvelous flight to Heaven. — Other Moslem Legends, 
—How they learn Music — En Rogel, King's Garden, 
Virgin's Fountain. — Gethsemane. — Grotto of the 
Agony. — Under the City of Jerusalem.— Model of 
Solomon's Temple. — Mt. Olivet. 

CHAPTER XIX. 

North op Jerusalem 174 

Robber's Glen.— Shiloh.— Samuel, and the Dedication of 
Children to God.- Jacob's Well.— Joseph's Tomb. — 
Place for Reflection.— Ebal, Gerizim, Sychar.— Last 
of the Samaritans. - Old Pentateuchs.— Missions.— 
Other evidences of Prosperity.— A Typical Mill. — 
Samaria, a Wasted Capitol.— Displays of Mohamme- 
dan Bigotry.— Jenin, Worse Demonstrations.-- Con- 
spiracy, Narrow Escape.— The " Little Foxes." — Es- 
draelon, the World's Oldest Battle-field.— Jezreel, 
Home of Jezebel, Jehu and Gideon.— Gideon's Foun- 
tain.— Shunem, Nain, Endor. 

• 

CHAPTER XX. 

Mt. Tabor, Sea of Galilee, Nazareth 183 

Mt. Tabor.— The Transfiguration.— Through a Paradise to 
Tiberias.— Backsheesh.— A Ride on the Sea to Caper- 
naum. — Fishing.— Bathing in the Sea.— Natural Hot 
Baths.— Mount of Beatitudes.-— Cana.-— Nazareth.— - 
Missions.— A Walk about Jesus' Birth-place. 



12 

CHAPTER XXI. 

From Nazareth to Beirut 190 

Nazareth to Mt. Carmel.— Market women.— Mr. M. is sick 
and takes a steamer.— Of Haifa, — A Frantic Scene.— 
Acre, city of Blood. — Tax on Salad.— The old Roman 
Road.— Historic Lands, Tyre, Sarepta, Ornithopolis, 
Sidon. — History repeats itself. — A Turkish Hotel. — 
How an Arab makes the Amende honorable.— Mis- 
sions.— Public Highway Forts.— Silk Manufacture. 

CHAPTER XXII. 
Beirut 198 

All is well that ends well.— En Harak Said.— (May you 
have a rich day) — Mr. M. sick still.— Beirut.— Dog 
River.- Sugar and Silk. — Household foes. 

Missionary Matters.— Colleges, Schools, Churches, Hos- 
pitals, Printing Presses, &c, Statistics. 

CHAPTER XXIII. 

The Land, The People, The Man..... 216 

The Call of Abraham the Beginning of God's Purpose 
to Develop the Race. National Peculiarities of- the 
Hebrews : 1. They have Faith. 2. Domestic Affec- 
tion. 3. Sentimental, the " Holy Land." 4. Conser- 
vative, old Pentateuch, old Customs,. Samaritans. 5. 
The Hebrew impressed his Religion on others. Ex- 
amples. — In debt to the Jew.— Smallest and Greatest. 
Final Product. — Strength made perfect in Weakness. 

CHAPTER XXIV. 

Among the Grecian Isles 225 

Beirut to Cyprus, Copper Island.— General Cesnola. — 
Lazarus' Grave.— Venus' Birthplace. — How they em- 
ploy Criminals.— Some Criminals not apprehended.— 
Rhodes. — Cos, Birthplace of Hippocrates and Apel- 
les. — Halicarnassus, where was one of the " Seven 
"Wonders." — Leros.— Patmos.— Chios. 



13 



CHAPTER XXV. 

Smyrna and Ephesus 232 

Turkish Custom-house Officers.— A Pretty City.— Markets 
and Bazaars. —A Heterogeneous Mass.— Protestantism 
Missions.— Panorama from Mt. Pagus. — Home of the 
Muses. 

Ephesus. — Gates, Vice Versa.— Gymnasiums, Agorae. — 
Theaters.— Stadium.— Baptismal Font of St. Paul's 
time or soon afterwards.— "Diana of the Ephesian's " 
Temple:— Scene of Paul's Labors. 

CHAPTER XXVI. 

From Asia to Greece .244 

Minerva Suniuni. — Piraeus. Athens. — First Impressions, 
Among Ruins, Prison of Socrates. Acropolis, The- 
seum, Mars Hill. Vandalism. — Center of the World. 
— Enchanted Ground, Dishonored Shrine. — King of 
Greece. — Pedagogues still Peripatetic. 

CHAPTER XXVII. 

Amongst Savants 252 

Academy of Plato. — Where Cereals were first planted, 
and Olive trees. — Soil and Products. — Eleusis. — Cut- 
ting Greece in two. — Vessels going by Land. — Corinth. 
— Acro-Corinthus. — Pirene, where Pegasus drank. — 
We view the Whole Land. — A Solemn Moment. — 
The American School at Athens. — Mt. Lycabettus. — 
Athens Gave, Let her Receive again. 

CHAPTER XXVIII. 

Through the Dardanelles, Hellespont and Sea of 
Marmora to Constantinople 260 

On Stormy Waters. — Bishop Fowler.— The Dead line of 

Nations, Chessboard of Ancient Warriors. — Leander 

and Hero's Homes. — x\pproach to the Sublime Porte. 

• — Its Geography. —Volume of Business. — Ironclads. 

CHAPTER XXIX. 

In and About Stamboul 266 

Meeting old acquaintances. — Genoese Tower. — Seraglio 
Grounds. — Sublime Porte. — St. Sophia. — Hippo- 
drome. — Janizaries.— Reservoir of 1001 Columns. — 



14 



Seraskierat. — Pigeon Mosque. — Sultan's Mosque. — Se- 
lamlik or Yildik (Star.) — Bible House. — Mohammet- 
an Reverence for God. 
In Asia-Minor Again. — Of their Tickets, Boats, and car- 
ing for the Women. — City of the Dead. — Retaining 
identity of the Dead, a Horse's Tomb. — English Cem- 
etery, Heroes of the Crimean War. — Boulgourloo, 
Splendid Panorama. — Camels going to Mecca, Intense 
Excitement, Parading Cavalry. — An Accident. — 
Frightened by Turks. — Ramazan, Fast or Lent of 
the Moslems. 



CHAPTER XXX. 

Constantinople and the Turks 275 

Through the Bosphorus to the Black Sea. — Mail Service 
and Tickets. — American College at Bebek. — Mehmet 
II. Garrison of Mehmet II. A Mighty monarch Re- 
ceives a Grand Ovation. S^amboul at her best. — The 
whole Creation Groaneth and Travaileth together 
in pain until now. — Turkish ways, About Wives, 
Salutations, Neplus ultra, to get there. — Extreme Mod- 
esty, Dress,. — As the twig is bent, the tree's inclined, 
Sample of Cleanliness. — Dogs, Diplomatic Dogs. — Sa- 
tan. — Mohamed's divisions of the World. — Kitablees. 
— Dr. Menzie's estimate. — First Standing Army. — Dr. 
Hamilton's Estimate. — Missions. 

CHAPTER XXXI. 

Through Turkey, Roumelia, Bulgaria, Servia, 

Hungary and Austria 286 

Caught in a Turkish Trap. — Cutting the Gordian Knot. — 
How they Start a Train. — Customs Officers. — Turkish 
Landscape. — National Insignia. — New Modes of Ap- 
plying Water-power. — More Customs Officers, a New 
Kind. — Belgrade and More Officers. — Semlin and 
Still More. — Great Prairies. 



CHAPTER XXXII. 

Vienna.... 293 

Antiquity.— Its Beauty. The Ring-Strasse with its 
Voluptuousness.— -Art Galleries, Confessional, In- 
dulgences, Accursed Trio. — Some Fine Churches. — 



15 



All go to church in the morning. Sunday Afternoon 
is Holiday .—The "Prater, Beer gartens. — Training Young 
Soldiers. — Some ridiculous customs. — The Women 
Hew the Wood, Cultivate the Land and Pay the Tax. 
— Dogs used for Horses. — Shoenbrun.— Headquarters of 
Surgery. — Royal Condescension. — Religious Phase. — 
Missions. 

CHAPTER XXXIII. 

From Vienna to London 306 

Advantages of slow travelling. — Fairyland and Farm 
land. — Russia's Way. — Wallialla. — Nuremburg. - - 
Wurtzburg, Legend of the Minnesinger. — Frankfort- 
on-the-Main, Ariadne, Lost in town, Kaiser-saal, &c. 
— Heidelberg, Molkencur, Castle, University, &c, — 
Worms, Luther Plate. — The Grandest Sight. — Ger- 
man Soldiers to the manner born. — Maintz. — The 
Rhine. — Bonn. — Cologne, finest Cathedral. Finest 
Music, German Catholic method. — Aix-la-chapelle. — 
Spa. Oldest watering place. — Belgium, Waterloo. 

CHAPTER XXXIV 

In London 321 

London. — A home-like feeling. — The "Bank." — 'Busses. — 
Travel on the Great Thoroughfares. — Elevated and 
Underground Rail Roads. — 5,000,000 of People, How 
Placed. — " What shall we do with our Cities ?" — Hu- 
manitariansf — Sights to be Seen. — May Meetings. — 
The English in Meeting. — The English in History, 
Poetry, Literature, Government and Religion. — 
Churchmen and Dissenters. — Churchmen and the 
Papacy. — Victoria's policy. — The Wesleyan's. City 
Road Chapel, Wesley's. House and Furniture. — His 
Tomb amongst honored Co-laborers. — Bunhill Fields, 
Mrs. Wesley's Epitaph. 

CHAPTER XXXV. 

From London Home 334 

Noted Preachers of London. — Noted Churches. — The 
Tower. — Other Objects. — Waverly Route to Melrose. 
The Abbey, Abbotsford, Scott — Edinburgh. — Glas- 
gow. — Aboard once more. 



CHAPTER I. 



PLEASANT GARDEN TO NEW YORK, 



Leaving home — Last familiar face. — Greensboro. — "\Vash j 
ington City. — New York.- -Messrs. Brown Bros. — 
A difficulty. — Brooklyn Bridge. — Cooper Institute. — 
Stock Exchange. — U. S. Treasury Building. — Sambo 
in New York. — Polite people done smoking on the 
streets. — A narrow escape. — Confidence men. 

HAVING placed my family at Pleasant Gar- 
den with friends of other years to board, 
where the children can go to school, to one of the 
best teacher* in North Carolina, Prof. Fentress,, 
who graduated at Trinity College in 1887, I went 
over to Trinity to see Professors Armstrong andi 
Price, who had spent some years abroad, for such 
kindly suggestions and advice as they might 
make, and much. to my delight and profit. Presi- 
dent Crowell placed a very valuable book in my 
hands that will serve me in making observations 
on the conditions of things in Europe. 

I spent the night with the family of the Rev. C. 
M. Pepper, who gave me my start in the ministry, 
, but who, now superannuated, is keeping a first- 
class boarding house near the College. 

I had the good fortune to meet the Rev. Rufus 
King, who had been to Palestine, and who gave 



18 



me several valuable hints. Bishop Granbury also 
very kindly gave me a letter commending me to 
the confidence of church people wherever I might 
go, with the assurance that I should have his 
prayers in my behalf, all of which I most cordially 
appreciate, with the desire that all my brethren in 
the N. C. Conference will also remember me at a 
throne of grace. Dr. Young wrote me a few days 
ago, to go first to Egypt and Palestine, as the 
" mercury would soon be too high for comfort 
there." I never did like mercury and am purpos- 
ing to follow his advice. 

Farewells said at home, with a small valise as 
my only traveling companion, I turned my face 
toward the North. I noticed in passing through 
Greensboro a great deal of work going on putting 
in sewerage pipes, they have just put in water- 
works, and built a new railroad to Madison, and 
will soon have one of the finest bank buildings in 
the State. Her good people are worthy, and we 
rejoice in her prosperity. 

The last familiar faces I saw were those of the 
gifted Ityrd and his young wife, who got off the 
train as I got on. 

By way of Richmond you reach Washington at 
11 A. M., leaving Greensboro at 8:40 P. M. Our 
engine killed a very fine cow just before reaching 
Washington — we stopped, and all went back to 
see her, except the ladies and children. 

In Washington I called first at the State De- 



19 

partment for my passport, which now costs only 
$1.00, $5.00 being the price until recently ; after 
wflfch, it being Wednesday, and Mr. Cleveland's 
. day for receiving visitors, I palled at' the White 
House with about one hundred others, to be 
introduced to the President. It is an informal 
affair; the President stands in a doorway, leading 
out of the East room, and visitors come up to 
him, say "howdye do, Mr. President?" and pass 
out. It is simple and does a little good and no 
harm. 

I then went down to the Capitol hoping to get 
letters of introduction to representative Americans 
and gentlemen abroad from our Senators; but 
calling of ayes and nays prevented my seeing 
Senator Vance, while very important business in 
N. C. craved the presence of Senator Ransom. I 
admire the public buildings of Washington 
enough to write a whole letter about them, but 
many of my readers have already seen them, and 
others have written them up in better style than 
I am able to do. 

In all the travel I hope to make, I do not 
expect to see any one building more magnificent 
than the Capitol of the United States, nor any 
city more beautiful than Washington, with its 
fine buildings and parks. Being detained in the 
White House until 2 P. M., I had to wait till 
four, but the loss of time was more than com- 
pensated by the acquaintance of a Mr. Miller, of 



20 

New York, son of a Presbyterian clergyman. He 
says in their church they have the Y. P. C. E. S., 
i. e. the Young People's Christian Ende^pr 
Society, and that it works admirably. It is the 
same thing about which I wrote an article in 
November. I formed one of the same at Mt. 
Tabor on the Granville circuit, with twenty-four 
members. It gives each something to do. We 
are all very fast learning the fact that, to take 
stock in anything or expend labor, prayer or 
thought to further a cause, identifies us with that 
enterprise as we cannot otherwise be. May be I 
shall try to inaugurate such a work in our Confer- 
ence when I return. 

I reached Jersey City at 11:35 P. M., Wednesday, 
and New York next morning at nine o'clock. I 
have now been here two days. I stopped at the 
International Hotel, Park Row, opposite the Post 
office first, but' as our Steamer leaves to-morrow 
morning at six, I came down to the Palace Hotel, 
only- one square from the pier. 

My first care was to put my cash into the 
hands of Messrs. Brown Bros., whose letters of 
credit are honored all over the world where there 
is a Bank. But they required that I be identified ; 
but Dr. Deems was the only man who knew me 
in the; city. I purposed calling on him for letters 
of introduction, advice, etc., etc. I could not find 
him. But sometimes when things can't be done 
one way they can another, so I succeeded by the 



21 



other. (Some of my readers will understand what 
that other way is.) 

The next thing was to determine on which 
Steamer to go, as I wished to make the Mediterra- 
nean as early as possible. The Cunard and In- 
man both send vessels to-morrow to Liverpool, 
also the Red Star Line to Antwerp. But I chose 
the Gascogne of the French Line to Havre. This 
is the largest and finest boat in the harbor, ca- 
pacity seven thousand tons. I chose this also 
because I thought I might pick up a little French 
on the way. I presume I need not dwell on this 
city much, everything is done on a magnificent 
scale. Many of the buildings are from six to ten 
stories high, and high pitched rooms at that. A. 
T. Stewart's old property occupies a whole square, 
and is built of stone, as are hundreds of others. 
The Brooklyn Bridge is one and one-fourth miles 
between gates, about eighty feet wide, and ninety 
feet high, and would hold altogether fifty thou- 
sand people. The3 r have four lines of elevated 
steam railways, capable of carrying two hundred 
passengers at a trip ; they go about every sixty or 
seventy seconds during the morning, and some- 
times tine cars are full in the morning and late in 
the afternoon. They stop every few blocks to 
take passengers on and off. 

I visited the Cooper Institute. This is a mag- 
nificent brown stone building, opposite the Bible 
House, Eighth Street and Bowery. Here is a free 



22 



reading-room, one hundred feet wide and two 
hundred long — I am guessing — with a dozen cop- 
ies each of scores of papers, and thousands of 
volumes of books ; tables with chairs, and desks 
for standing, are plentifully provided for the 
comfort of the thousands who come here yearly 
and read and obtain the knowledge they are too 
poor to buy elsewhere. About one hundred and 
fifty were in when I called. Free lectures are 
given also. Paintings and statuary are on free 
exhibition. I felt a thrill of admiration for the 
beneficent founder when I departed. I saw the 
statue of the Father of his country, in Wall Street 
at the treasury building, where he took the oath of 
office as the first President of the United States. 
I visited the Stock Exchange, where men are made 
paupers and millionaires by telegraph. And al- 
though I have attended many scores of revivals 
of religion, I have never witnessed such antics 
as I saw cut there. Men yell and scream much, 
I imagine, as Indians celebrate a victory won ; but 
others have written up all this. 

I noticed a very few colored people in New 
York, not over a dozen or twenty perhaps. Too 
cold or too something for Sambo up here. I 

Another thing, I have seen less smoking on 
Broadway than one would in a town of a thousand 
inhabitants, perhaps, in North Carolina. I have 
seen less than a dozen boys with cigarettes — this 
I thought remarkable and very creditable. The 



23 



habit may be to smoke at home, I don't know, 
only I have not seen it to any extent, hardly. 

I must not neglect to relate a narrow escape 
I had in New York. It may serve a good purpose 
to some young reader expecting to visit the Me- 
tropolis. The morning I arrived, a familiar look- 
ing chap accosted me with, " Hello, Groome, you 
here!" "Yes," I replied. He endeavored to 
draw me into conversation, but being in a hurry I 
escaped him, but to be encountered a few moments 
later by a more successful accomplice. The first 
had learned my home, name, etc. The second 
man said : "I am from Greensboro, and felt as if I 

must speak to you, my name is ," giving 

the name of one of the first families in North 
Carolina, "and we are going to put up a cotton 
factory in Greensboro, I am here to buy the ma- 
chinery, etc., for it. Let me give you my card." 
He being so well related, and from Greensboro, 
and putting up a factory, I hated to appear so dis- 
interested as to refuse his card and circulars. 
" They are just here," he said, leading me across 
Broadway and on a square, chatting very pleas- 
antly. I began to feel, this man is presuming very 
much, to thus waste my time, and the thought 
occured to me, he is a " sharper," but I followed 
him two squares, and he stopped at a very nice 
looking, second class office : " Walk in Mr. 
Groome." I paused at the door, he passed in, 
and said to a gentleman writing at a table and in 



24 



front of a screen : Is the printing clone ?" " No," 
replied the scribe, " sit down and I'll send over for 
it." " Come in, Mr. Groome, it will be done in a 
moment, and we will go." " No, thanks, I'll stand 
here," I said. He then came out and insisted that 
I come in, wished to know if I were in a hurry, 
etc., etc. I looked across the street, and a gentle- 
man shook his head violently and gesticulated his 
warnings. I had already started away and was 
accosted twice more in the same manner before I 
left the city, and each time on Broadway. 

These fellows live on Broadway, and go in pairs, 
one learns the name, place, etc., reports to the 
other and thus catch up unwary visitors. They 
are called " Confidence men." Once inside, the 
door closed, and you may be robbed if not mur- 
dered.* 

I am now aboard and will start in a few minutes. 

" The sails are spread and fair the light wind blows, 
As glad to waft him from his native home." 



* Since reaching home, two North Carolinians have told rne of 
toeing" swindled, in the dens of " Confidence men " in New York. 



CHAPTER -II. 



CROSSING THE SEA 



New Experience. — Looking for Security. — How we got 
Adrift. — In a Storm. — La Grascogne. — Sea Birds. — 
The Sea the Sea. — The Passengers.— How Sketching 
is Done. — Havre. 

BEFORE the gangway was pulled ashore, and 
the ship cut from her mooring, I penned a 
few lines, in the early morning light, to loved 
ones at home, and felt a sensation of fear and 
peril, new to me and strange, possibly common to 
those about to cross the ocean for the first time. 
What lies before me on this waste of water? And 
if I return not, what of the little group that I 
left weeping while ago? What right had I to 
leave any way? Had not one Jonas tried the 
same with disastrous results? And was he not 
an example to men of like habits ? Are there any 
other preachers here aboard who, like myself, are 
going forth to widen and deepen their knowledge 
of men and things, that they may bring to the 
church's service better equipment of both body 
and mind, and who may be a sort of guarantee 
to me, that God's good providence will guide us 



26 



safely over? No, not one can be found on the 
roll, save a Hebrew Rabbi. 

About 6 o'clock, on Saturday morning, a small 
steam ferry boat, that had been fastened to ours, 
began to move her out towards the channel of the 
river and turn her prow towards the ocean. So 
small was the motion that only by sighting dis- 
tant objects in a line with the opposite end of the 
vessel could one see her move, but when she at 
last got into position, and turned her mighty 
engines loose, her screw churned the sea behind 
into a foaming whirlpool. 

This is the 6th day we have been out, the first 
was bright and we made good speed. The ma- 
chinery got out of order the second, and we lost 
about four hours; only one passenger sick the 
first day, but the second was windy and the usual 
tributes were paid to Neptune. Sunday night 
blew a gale. Monday was stormy all day, every- 
body was sick, and I was uneasy. We had a 
musical crowd, but no singing. Monday nearly 
all abed, the waves beat over the ship and poured 
down the openings below. There were many 
aboard who had crossed the ocean, often ; they 
would laugh, but not sing. It may be weakness, 
but to see the sea rising above your ship like moun- 
tains and sweeping down as if anxious to engulf 
her, to see her rise momentarily as if by magic to 
escape certain death, far above, but to be plunged 
again into the deep, the sea ever and anon break- 



27 

ing over, sweeping all movable things from the 
deck alarms me for the time. You know that 
death would not have to go far from his course to 
take you. I was a little more fervent, though no 
more sincere in my devotions. I renewed my 
pledges of service, etc., to greater length, than at 
the usual hour of prayer. Tuesday morning the 
storm was gone and we have since had fine 
weather. 

Our ship, La Gascogne, is a gallant barque, four 
masts, and iron from mast to keel. Her entire 
length is 540 feet by 36 feet wide, capable of carry- 
ing 1,500 passengers, though there are less than 
two hundred on board. She was built in 1886. 
She is a fast boat, has crossed from New York to 
Havre in seven days, nearly four thousand miles. 
We expect to be out eight clays this time. She is 
driven by three massive engines, aggregrating nine 
thousand horse power, she burns one hundred and 
sixty tons of coal per day, in thirty-six furnaces. 
First class passage on the other Steamers ranges 
from $50 to $100 ; second class $25 to $45. On 
La Gascagne it is for first class, $100 to $125; 
second from $50 to $60. The cause I think is ow- 
ing to the large number of extra servants and 
cooks engaged on the Gascogne — they number 220 
in all — and the fact that she monopolizes the 
travel from New York to Havre. 

The sea birds have attended us all the way 
across. Sometimes they follow the ship all day 



28 

without stopping to rest ; sometimes they light on 
the water for a short while and rise to pursue us 
again. What power of endurance must be locked 
up in the tiny muscles of their tireless wings. I 
have 

" Marked the seabird wildly wheeling through the skies," 
and considered that, 

" God attends him, God defends him when he cries," 

and felt secure. 

You never get tired looking at the sea, it is so 
suggestive, as well as so wonderful. The univer- 
sal receptacle of the washings of all continents, 
with their city sewerages, and yet of the great 
health giving powers of the world ; all the rivers 
run into it, yet it is not full. Its floor may be 
covered with the corpses of those who have assay- 
ed to traverse its plains, yet it seems at times 
harmless, and so inoffensive. You may become 
familiar with a thousand of its secrets, yet ten 
thousand are concealed. Verily they that go down 
to the sea in ships, in time of storm, "See His 
wonders in the mighty deep," where, as Byron 
says: 

" The Almighty's wrath is glassed in. storms," 

The high way of all nations, it in turn requires 
tribute of them all, type of the Maker's power, 
type of his love, as it embraces every land, small 



29 



and great, disbursing its beneficence to all, inspirer 
of ambition, eloquence and song, paralyzing with 
fear and dread, when Neptune drives abroad to 
wreak vengeance on his foes^ or soothing to 
happy dreams, when 

" Rocked in the cradle of the deep," 

or lounges in the shade, some quiet summer 
evening, near the beach, 

" Down by the deep green sea." 

What stories could it relate of piratical deeds, 
of lost and starving crews, of bloody encounter, 
prosecuted by ambitious thirst for power, covetous 
thirst for gold and unholy revenge, and not a few 
of sighing lovers. But others abler have related, 
and may relate what pertains to the " deep, dark 
and wondrous ocean." 

I have formed some pleasant acquaintances ; an 
art student who has studied in Naples, Rome and 
Germany and spent a year in New York, is on 
his way to the Julien School in Paris ; two Greeks 
returning to Sparta; a wealthy Italian, who 
promise to serve me in Turin; a Jewish Rabbi 
from Jerusalem, and a nice young Switzer are 
among those whose acquaintance I most appreci- 
ate. I have also had the good fortune to be 
invited, while in Genoa, to the house of an Italian 
importing merchant, who lives in the same street 



30 



Columbus did. There are many garrulous French- 
men aboard, but as yet I have not become ac- 
quainted with any of them. 

Yesterday and to-day we saw in the North two 
beautiful rainbows, their reflection on the surface 
of the water reached almost to the ship. Our 
Artist went into raptures over them. He is 
sketching almost everything, has got me down in 
black and white. 

And I will tell our young readers how illustrated 
sketches are made : first, outlines are made with 
an ordinary graphite pencil, these are filled with 
a pen and ink, this is photographed on a plate of 
gelatine, making a fac simile of the illustrations, 
this plate is after this submitted to acid treatment, 
when all is eaten off except the photographed 
impression, which now projects above the other 
surface; from this is made the stereotype plate, 
from which any number of pictures may be taken. 

I have reached Paris, and will write you again 
from this place. Yesterday (Sunday) was election 
day in Paris, and M. Boulanger, Republican, was 
elected by a large majority, over Jacques, Radical. 



CHAPTER III. 



FRANCE. 



Paris. — Sunday Election-day. — How the French Do. — 
La Bastile. — Hotel de Ville. — Palaise Royal. — Liter- 
ary Supplies. — They Read. — Churches. — Notre Dame. 
St. Sulpice. — Holy Sepulchre. — The Louvre. — Paint- 
ing. — Statuary. — Antiquities. — Place do Carrousal. — 
Elysees Champs. — Poilpot's Panorama — Siege of 
Paris in Fraco-Prussian War. — Arc d' 'Etoile. — Hos- 
pital des Invalides. — Tomb of Napoleon. — Pere la 
Chaise. — Jardin des Plants. — ThelMarkets. — Draught 
Horses. — Street-cars. Missionary Work in Paris. 

PARIS was painted red, yellow and green with 
large posters representing the various claims 
of the rival candidates to represent the district of 
the Seine in the House of the Deputies; at least 
one hundred thousand circulars varying in size 
from four feet square and under were posted in the 
c city, and from what little French I am able to 
^ead, I think the same methods are resorted to 
here to defeat one's opponent as at home. I made 
effort to visit the Senate and House of Deputies 
also, but failed, as considerable red tape is required, 
which I discarded, rather than lose the time. • 

I visited the Bastile, which is a monument com- 
memorating the bravery of " French Soldiers in 
1827, 1828 and 1829." 



32 



The base and pedestal are marble, the column 
proper is bronze, on top is a bronze figure repre- 
senting the Genius of Liberty holding in one hand 
a torch, in the other a broken chain, the ascent is 
by a spiral stairway of two hundred and twelve 
steps, and from the top one has a fine view of the 
city, though it was smoky when I ascended, and 
the view was shut off. There is an interesting- 
history connected with this column. It is on the 
site of the prison by the same name, which was 
built over five hundred years ago by kings Charles 
V. and VI., not used at first for a prison, but after- 
wards was used to confine persons of rank. It was 
destroyed at the beginning of the French Revolu- 
tion, July, 1789. The present column was well 
nigh destroyed by the commune in 1871. 

I next went to the Hotel de Ville, one of the 
finest buildings in the city. It contains the town 
hall, but is not yet completed on the interior; the 
facade is very imposing; in niches of the second,- 
third and fourth stories are statues of the Celebri- 
ties of Parisan history. Here also was a rallying 
point for the revolutionists in 1789; to this place 
Louis XVI. came from Versailles in procession, 
testifying his submission to the will of the National 
Assembly. Here the two Huguenot Chiefs died 
by order of Catherine de Medici, after the massacre 
of St. Bartholomew. Here Foulon, Treasurer, and 
his son-in-law were hung to lamp-posts during the 
Revolution, and many another victim. 



33 



The Palais Koyal is near by, built by Cardinal 
Richelieu, in the early part of the seventeenth 
century. It also is connected with many a tale of 
royal dissipation, faithlessness, and misery. It 
has been owned in turn by French and German 
kings and people. It was also well-nigh burned 
down by the commune in 1871, but has been since 
rebuilt. Here one sees the finest display of jewelry 
in Paris ; in the shops, on the ground floor, in one 
window I saw three hundred bracelets, selling at 
from six hundred francs (one hundred and twenty 
dollars) down ; watches, chains, charms, ear-rings, 
pins, etc., etc., with diamonds worth thousands of 
dollars. They are arranged in rows, in rings, in 
stars, in pyramids and all manner of fantastic' 
forms, all pleasing to the eye. Occasionally one' 
sees the sign, " English Spoken," but I find it not 
so ; yet any of them can make a trade, in fact, 
every article has marked on it the price in francs. 
There are more restaurants here than any other 
kind of shops, and living is cheap or dear, accord- 
ing to what you wish — one can dine anywhere for 
five cents or five dollars, as one pleases. One 
notable thing about bread is that it is all baked 
alike, in long, light rolls, one to five feet long. I 
have seen scores of persons carrying bread in their 
arms, exactly as a boy carries a turn of wood. 
Occasionally it is carried in baskets, mostly in 
hand, arm or apron. Lee Merriwether remarked 
that they sell bread here "by the yard." 



34 



Paris contains a reading people, judging both 
from the number of book-stores and news-stands, 
and the number of papers published daily at one 
cent each. As far as I could judge, I think much 
wine is drunk, but very little whiskey. 

I visited the churches of Notre Dame, St. 
Sulpice and the Holy Sepulchre. St. Sulpice, a 
very large structure four hundred and sixty-two 
by one hundred and eighty-three feet, by one 
hundred and eight feet high, supported interiorly 
by thirty-two stupendous columns ten feet to one 
foot on the sides and rising to the height of seven- 
ty or eighty feet, they support an arched ceiling 
of marble or stone. This church contains eighteen 
chapels, beside a nave where the faithful were 
worshiping during my visit; this is the second 
oldest church in Paris, Notre Dame being the 
oldest. This church is on the site of a church 
of the fourth century; it was consecrated in 1182, 
but the nave was not completed until the thirteenth 
century. 

The finest part of the Cathedral is the facade 
facing the West, the three portals are adorned 
with the finest gothic workmanship. There is 
one window in this church said to be fifty-four 
feet high. It is five hundred and seventeen feet 
long, one hundred and fifty-six feet wide, and the 
vaulting in the nave is one hundred and ten feet 
high. It has passed through the revolutions and 
witnessed much bloodshed; within its portals, 



35 



reason has been deified and the true light seem- 
ingly extinguished. To the credit of Napoleon, 
it was opened, by his order, for Divine worship 
again. 

I spent a day in the Louvre, situated in a place 
once infested by wolves, when this was a forest ; 
hence its name. It covers several acres of land ; 
it contains the largest collections of paintings in 
the world, besides a large collection of relics 
from Babylon, Ninevah and Egypt; immense 
Sarcophagi and Statuary in stone, Mummies, etc. 
"Here is a dinner table in mosaic, displaying ducks 
and fatted fowl in gorgeous colors, yet the pieces 
of stone of which they are made are often no 
larger than a pin-head, many thousands of pieces 
are required for one bird, yet the picture is com- 
plete in every detail, and the surface of the table 
is as smooth as a pane of glass. The cost must 
have been many thousands of dollars. Among 
the Statuary I believe the Venus de Milo is 
thought to be the best, though now time-worn 
and abused by handling. 

I spent much time in the Salle of the Italian 
School; a novice can discern the superiority of 
these in the outlines of the parts and faultless 
blending of colors. I was, of course, impressed 
by the Last Supper by Leonardo da Vinci, cover- 
ing over two hundred feet of canvas. Many of 
his works are in this gallery, thousands of feet of 
them. Then those of Titian, Raphael, Corregio, 



36 



etc. You become intoxicated with admiration, 
and dazed at the splendid panoramas. Passing 
still down the beautiful quay you enter the Jardin 
des Tuilleries, once reserved for Eoyalty alone, it 
is now filled with nurses and hundreds of happy 
children rolling hoops, spinning tops, etc., fete. 
Next is the Place du Carrousal, where Louis XIV. 
gave an equestrian ball, 1662, and where fetes 
have been held ever since. 

The Arc de Triomph now stands there, and is 
small in comparison- with its surroundings. Nexi^ 
is the Court of the Tuilleries which, with the Jar- 
din, and Elysees Champs transcends the most lofty 
ideas I had conceived of their beauty. On farther 
is the Obelisk brought from Egypt, with its silent 
eloquence. I turned aside here to see the Pano- 
rama — siege of Paris in 1870-1, but was disap- 
pointed; it was far inferior to the Battle of Bull Run, 
as seen in Washington by the same artist, Poilpot. 
Admission, two francs. Up the same Boulevard, 
one and one-half miles farther, though it does' not 
seem half a mile, is Arc cV Etoile, begun by 
Napoleon I., after his Austrian campaign, and 
finished twenty or thirty years later; he is the 
only cognizable figure on the facade. He is being- 
crowned as a conqueror. 

I visited the Hospital des Invalides and saw many 
of the soldiers of their last wars. Near by is the 
Tomb of Napoleon I. which I did not enter, it 
being closed, but which I presume is the most 



37 



colossal tomb that has been built in a thousand 
years. The dome and cross on top are bronze. 

I visited also the cemetery Pere La Chaise, the 
largest and oldest in Paris, I think. I saw the 
tomb of Abelard and Heloise, whose pathetic 
history has been read around the world, and 
many others famous in letters, eloquence and 
diplomacy. 

I was most interested possibly in Jardin des 
Plantes, where I spent this morning. Time would 
fail to tell of the reptiles, fossils, birds, beasts, 
savage and tame, carnivorous, herbivorous and 
omnivorous. Here were bears, lions, tigers, cats, 
hyenas, wolves, etc., etc., from Africa, Asia and 
America ; storks and cranes tall as a man, pelicans 
with sacks large enough to hold half a gallon under 
their bills, ostriches, hawks, and the giant condor 
from South America; one white bird had a tuft on 
the back of its head, green and precisely, from my 
stand point, like a bunch of grass. I saw a seal 
six feet long, antelopes, bison, reindeer, kangaroo, 
deer, zebras, etc., etc., ad infinitum. 

The Jardin des Vivants Plantes was closed, but I 
could see the vast collections through the glass 
sides, and a cedar of Lebanon brought here several 
years ago about three feet in diameter. 

I went to the markets and priced a good many 
things to ascertain the comparative cost of a table 
support with North Carolina. It was nearly the 
same I think. The meats here are of a better 



38 



quality than I am used to seeing at home markets. 
I have seen rabbits here three times as large as 
any I ever saw in North Carolina, and they are 
plentiful. 

I was struck with the fine, large draught horses 
used here. One sees one horse carry over a ton of 
coal, often two tons of coal or brick on carts, about 
the streets ; I have noticed two horses haul ten to 
twelve tierces of molasses often. On one omnibus 
often forty to fifty persons will go, drawn by 
two horses till a rise is reached, when a third is 
hitched in. 

I visited one mission to day and conversed with 
a missionary about another, Le Bruiin. They are 
prosecuting a vigorous work, have services every 
day at the dispensary ; lectures free are delivered 
every day to the invalid poor, who receive free 
treatment. Many young women are given em- 
ployment, and homes found for the destitute. 
They claim that the School was asked of God in 
prayer and given by Him in answer thereto — and 
in their anteroom many verses of scripture are 
quoted on the walls as proof of the legitimacy of 
their position, and which all Christians with 
much experience can believe. I have written this 
against time, as the cars leave at ten o'clock, P. M., 
and it is now nine, and a good way to the train. I 
will write you again from Italy, D. V. The weather 
thus far has been very fine and I have had a good 
view of French city life, considering the brevity of 



39 



my visit. They are a gay and contented looking 
people, but the iron paling, fifteen feet high, around 
every public structure nearly, tell that up to this 
time a commune was not only *a possibility, but a 
probability. 

En Passant, if any North Carolinian, who reads 
this shall come to the Exposition, for which they 
are making Parisian provision, the Hotel Haute 
Loire, 203 Boulevard Raspail and B. Vard, Mt. 
Parnasse is a good one, and convenient, and Eng- 
lish is really spoken. I am staying here and 
several other Americans also. 



CHAPTER IV. 



PARIS TO TURIN. 



Shambles of Paris, and where their supplies come from. — 
The sapped system. — La Seine. — Ye Banks and Braes. 
— An Unknown tongue. — Lac Bourget. — How model 
roads are made. — A lonely Sentinel. — Do the children 
pay tax or Strangers? — Custom-house officials.— Con- 
tinental Cars, How equipped and managed. 

HAVING spent several days in Paris visiting 
the various places that claim x a stranger's 
notice, as the Louvre, depository of the most 
famous works of Art from the most ancient to 
modern times, Jardin des Plants where perhaps the 
largest collection of plants in the world are to be 
seen, a very large exhibit of animals, birds, rep- 
tiles, fossils, &c, &c. Jardin du Luxombourg, Tuil- 
leries, Champs, Elysees, Boulevards, Arches, towers, 
&c, &c, the most comprehensive exhibit of goods 
for the shambles extant, showing scores of green 
vegetables, as many kinds of roots, of fishes, of 
feathered kinds, and of fruit growing in the air. 
I left this city so famed for displays, for men of 
science, learning and war, for its love of the 
beautiful and blood on|the two o'clock train for 
Italy. We soon ran into the green gardens that 
feed the vast population on vegetables. We see 



41 



thousands of plants under glass vessels about 
gallon measures, and start up the Seine, soon we 
run into the wildest scenery, seemingly, " where 
mortal foot hath ne'er or rarely been," but soon 
\we find it is only a park which has doubtless been 
•preserved by the descendants of some feudal lord, 
it is here the large hares of which we saw so many 
are grown. Up the Seine we fly, now over a bridge 
now under one, all of which are stone, beautiful 
villas adorn the brows of the hills of Seine, and 
grassy meadows lie between, green to the very 
water's edge, even in mid winter. We are now at 
the head of navigation ; here is a dam thrown 
across, ah, no, there is a lock, and boats can pass ; 
here is another park and balsams and other ever- 
greens are thick; we emerge from the forest and 
here is another villa, where once a Feudal Baron 
lived in State upon the hard earnings of his serfs. 
Not all the griefs of the feudal system are gone 
from republican France yet, as the little patches 
of ground, the thatched roofs that cluster about 
some pretentious mansion, as well as other facts 
of modern history testify. We see the washer 
women down by the river bank with their goods. 
This is the custom, both in Paris and elsewhere so 
far as I have seen. I met with the same trouble 
in leaving Macon that Lee Meriwether had' in 
getting there, I could find no one speaking Eng- 
lish, nor any one who could understand my 
French, ou est le convoi pour Modanef said I to a 



42 



dozen men; they would all tell me something, 
but I could not understand, finally I got on the 
right one. The real trouble was this; I found 
the right train but the wrong side, they would 
show me the one and motion round, I would go 
round and try to take another and say, icipour 
Modane ? Sleeping a few hours I awoke to look 
out upon snow-capped mountains. Soon we enter 
a valley and the mountains begin to look higher 
and higher, on we sweep through a dozen tunnels 
up a beautiful, sinuous stream. We reach Lac de 
Bourget, a beautiful sheet of water, clear as crystal 
with a green tint at the bottom that renders it 
with mountains beyond and strip of fog and 
•solitary farm house and flying duck all reflected 
on its quiet face a picture fit for any artist's pencil. 

The public road of this valley surpasses any- 
thing of its kind I have ever seen, graded as care- 
fully as the railroad with stones set to mark every 
mile, and round stones every ten feet to guard the 
trees planted every twenty or thirty feet for shade 
in summer. I only wished every road maker in 
America could see it. I have seen hundreds of 
bridges in France and only one wooden one, and 
that only one span across a ditch, they are all of 
stone and iron. 

By the falls in the river beside the railroad, I 
know we are rising fast, as well as by the snow, 
which is now on the ground, on both sides and 
thousands of feet above, the threatening craggs 



43 

look down— soon we will reach Mt. Cenis tunneL 
oh, no, I am stopped at Modane till midnight. 
Modane, where I have to linger six hours all be- 
cause of a system of exchanging tickets at every 
State boundary, is a pretty little Italian town. I 
learn here the way they have of making a pas- 
senger pay for his ticket and enough besides to 
pay the government tax on the railroads, five cen- 
times above the price stamped on the billet is the 
universal custom, on the mountains around Mo- 
dane many cannon frown upon all the avenues of 
travel, they defy any other Napoleon from passing 
that way to surprise and capture a lethargic land. 
I had learned that Custom-house officers, which 
I afterwards found at nearly every town of any 
size, expect pour bois, or drink money for the pains 
of searching through your baggage. I begin to 
practice on these border Italians, with the purpose 
of paying just as little cash for having my valise 
emptied as possible, so I appear not to understand 
what they mean, I say "English," "no under- 
stand." Ne parlo Italiano!" To all their pan- 
tomimes, which really mean, pay me a lira, I look 
like a dummy, and pass on. 

It is after midnight on the first day of February 
when I am seated again in a railway carriage 
heading towards Turin. The ground is covered 
with snow, and our compartment is warmed up 
by two large zinc tanks half filled with hot water, 
one can rest his feet on these and keep warm, they 



44 



are changed about every two hours for hotter ones. 
In case of an accident there would be no danger 
of fire except from the lamps, but they are alto- 
gether insufficient for warming travelers as our 
American cars do. 

There is a long step outside reaching the whole 
length of the coach with guide rails fastened to 
the coach, along this the officer running the train 
sometimes walks to see if all is well, and in some 
European States to collect or punch the ticket. 

The style of these cars is favorable for murder 
or robbery, being in compartments as elsewhere 
described, so electric bells are provided in 
case of foul play, which has occured on some 
English railways. At five o'clock passing Mont 
Cenis tunnel we are in Turin, called by the Itali- 
ans Turino, a beautiful city and once the capitol 
of Piedmont. I shall go from this place to Pisa 
and Florence. 



CHAPTER V. 



PISA, FLORENCE. 



Pisa, new and old.— Duomo. — Galileo's Lamp. — Baptis- 
tery. — Campo Santo. — Leaning Tower. — The river 
Arno. — Cultivation of the Land. — White Heifers for 
Teams. 

Florence. — Donkies for Carriage-horses. — Dogs muzzled. 
Ladies and Cigars. — News-stands. — Papacy becoming 
Effete in Italy,— Catholic worship like bees swarm- 
ing. — The Duomo. — Santa Croce. — Necropolis of 
Genius.— Art Galleries.— Dr. Buckley— Pitti Palace. 
— Lazzaroni. — Some moralizing on Capital, Labor, &c. 

ALL the way from Alessandria to this city I 
have noticed the most luxuriant gardens. 
I counted thirteen different kinds of green salad 
in one, and have seen hundreds like it. 

I stopped at Pisa, an average looking city with 
massive walls and iron gates, still kept closed at 
night, as when they were a republic, or a kingdom. 
Pisa, you know, was founded by Pelops, the grand- 
son of Jove, and son of Tantalus and Phrygia, and 
was once the most warlike of any of the Italian 
states. They whipped out the Greeks once at 
Constantinople. She boasts the oldest university 
of any country, giving to the world Galileo, a 
native of Florence. His lamp still swings in the 
Duomo ; but perhaps has never suggested a new 



46 



idea to a mortal since. There are four buildings 
here which all foreigners passing this way think it 
is worth while to visit. The Duomo, the Leaning 
Tower, the Baptistery and the Campo Santo. 

The Duomo was built largely of the spoils of the 
Saracens of Palermo, in the expedition undertaken 
A. D. 1063. There are seventy-two columns in 
the interior of the church, of granite and marble; 
vast amounts of Verde antique, lapislazidi, bronze) 
gilt and porphyry adorn this temple. The design 
is by Michael Angelo, and is in the shape of a 
Latin cross, the style is a mixture of the Grecian 
and Arabic. The floor is marble mosaic — curious 
designs; ceiling black and gilt; the main altar is 
separated from 'the nave by marble balustrades 
about seven feet high ; within is a black cross, with 
a figure of Christ upon it, suspended from the 
ceiling about sixty or seventy feet. The cross is 
about four by six feet. There is a marble piazza 
about twenty feet wide all round the outside of 
the Duomo, and the green grass in the campus 
renders the whole a fresh and pleasing object to 
the eye. 

Immediately to the rear of the Duomo is the 
Baptistery, built by one florin from every citizen 
of the republic, in the twelfth century. Here is 
a large font of Parian marble. The peculiar at- 
traction of this structure is the echo ; sing a few 
notes and pause, and they are heard far up in the 
dome, and after a few moments still farther up, 



47 



but fainter ; so, says a gifted writer, " good deeds, 
hardly noted in our grosser atmosphere, awake a 
divine echo in the far world of spirits." 

We went from the Baptistery to Campo Santo. 
The earth in the old portion between the walls 
was brought from Jaffa, when the Tuscan Knights 
made their memorable pilgrimage to the Holy 
Land : it was put in their boats for ballast ; it is 
claimed that it will decompose any human body 
in two days. The walls around this form a 
rectangle and display many frescoes of the four- 
teenth century, with sixty-two Gothic arcades. 

I had always thought the Leaning Tower was on 
a hillside and leaned toward the West ; it is in a 
great plain, as is the whole city and leans toward 
the South. I ascended to the very top where 
Galileo so often surveyed the planetary worlds. 
The whole is of marble and granite. There is 
nothing to prevent one from falling from the first 
seven stories except about eight feet of railing in 
front of the doors. The top has an iron rail all 
the way round. Here one has a fine view of the 
Carrara Mountains, supplying a good quality of 
marble ; of the winding course of the Arno to the 
sea and upwards many miles towards Florence, 
while the city lies at our feet. I met, on the 
Tower, Mr. Robinson, who promises to make the 
same route about as myself, at least in Egypt and 
Palestine. He is now of England, formerly of 
New York. 



48 



I noticed some factories making cloth as I 
passed out of Pisa, cotton cloth, of all the gaudy 
styles. 

Nearly all the rich, alluvial bottom land of the 
Arno from Pisa to Florence, (called here Firenze) 
is planted in grapevines. The land is laid off in 
irregular rectangles by ditches ; on each side is a 
row of trees, cut off six to ten feet high and allowed 
to grow, but kept cut down; these support the 
vines and at the same time supply thousands of 
twigs, annually, for willow-ware; between the 
ditches, say forty yards, the land is cultivated in 
wheat, gardens, &c. They turn it mostly with 
a spade. I noticed along here two huge white 
heifers hitched to a cart, they were as large as 
ordinary oxen; also a carload of them being ship- 
ped, all milk-white. 

At Florence many donkeys are driven to bug- 
gies and drays ; the horses are all, or nearly all, 
very poor and seemed driven to death, almost. 

Their dogs are all either muzzled when on the 
streets, or led by their masters or mistresses. I 
saw, for the first time, a woman smoking in our 
hotel here, i. e. smoking a cigar. In all the cities 
I have visited, since leaving New York, nearly., 
every square has little booths where all the lead- 
ing papers of the nation are on sale. These are a 
reading people, they have dozens of book stores 
and libraries; every caffe is expected to have a 
dozen papers on the tables for customers to read 



49 

while sipping their coffee, milk or wine. All 
their daily papers sell for one cent each. It is 
only a question as to who holds the helm, to de- 
termine whither the ship will drive. 

There are many unsettled questions in Italy 
yet, but the decline of the papal power is not one 
of them, and looking at papal Italy in one of her 
strongest holfls, I do not think any great nation 
of the world has anything to fear from this source, 
except that deadness to spirituality which seems 
to rest on its votaries. Compromising on forms, 
this church gives ease to the conscience of those 
who are dead. 

I visited S. Spirito Annunziata to-day, filled 
with worshippers, they were on their knees, fol- 
lowing me and other visitors around the church 
with their eyes ; one man on his knees talking to 
another standing up, and I saw much which I for- 
bear to write. One pious woman, no doubt, drop- 
ped her penny into the contribution box, by the 
door, and stooped and kissed it as she retired. 

This church and the Duomo here, having re- 
markable resounding qualities, and the priests, 
with their choristers and responsive readings, 
make a noise about equal to a dozen swarms of 
bees. No doubt it is charming to those brought 
up to regard it as of importance and a divine 
service. 

This church, whose worship is a strange com- 
pound of Jewish and Pagan customs, and whose 



50 



doctrines pander to all the natural propensities of 
fallen human nature, has run everything praise- 
worthy in their creed to absurd extremes. I was 
reproved for singing, "Let the Savior in," as 
wanting in reverence, by a Catholic on board our 
ship coming over. Yet he frequently took God's 
name in vain, and swore continually. He was, 
no doubt sincere in his reproof, however. 

I have visited most of the churches here. The 
Duomo engaged the greatest architects known 
to fame. Across the street from the Dom two 
figures in marble are seated, one holding a board 
on which designs of the building are drawn and 
at which his eyes are gazing as if he contemplated 
changes. This is Brunelleschi. Hard by this sits 
Michael Angelo, with face upturned towards the 
dome. He studies it as a model for St. Peters. 

We went to St. Croce to look upon the tombs of 
the iPopes, Cardinals, Poets, Sculptors, Architects 
and great men whom the Italians and Catholics 
have delighted to honor. We found the inscrip- 
tions on many a grave-stone worn smooth by the 
feet of many visitors. Galileo's tomb is a sarco- 
phagus of variegated, marble. He sits on it with 
telescope in hand, and gazes into the heavens. 

" In Santa Croce's holy precincts lie 
Ashes which make it holier ; dust which is, 

Even in itself, an immortality, 

Though there were nothing save the past, and this, 

The particle of those sublimities 



51 



Which have relapsed to chaos : here repose 
Angelo's, Alfiero's bones, and his, 
The starry Galileo, with his woes ; 
Here Machiavelli's earth returned to whence it rose." 

We do the Uffizzi Palatine, Buomorotti, Ancient and 
Modem galleries, the Piazzas Boboli Gardens, 
&c. I will let the Rev. J. M. Buckley, D. D., 
Editor of The Christian Advocate, New York, who 
was in Florence about the same time as myself, 
and who calls this city the shrine of Art, Science 
and Literature, speak for me, as to the impression 
made by Florentine galleries. He says : 

" After several days spent in the galleries and 
palaces of Florence I found my eyes " dim with 
excess of light " and my mind in a confused state 
— basins of porphyry, portraits of Samson, ban- 
ners of Italian cities, mosaics and ceilings painted 
in imitation of mosaics, Judith and Holofernes, 
Madonnas and saints without number, the Magi, 
Venus, Bacchus, St. Paul, Caesar, tombs, cherubs, 
Laocoons, satyrs with gaps in their teeth, Cupids 
on a dolphin, Amazons fighting, small gray birds 
with red crests, heads of the Medusa, death of 
Virgin Mary, angels with mandolin, massacre of 
Innocents, Luther's wife, kings on horseback, 
gamblers struck by lightning, columns of oriental 
alabaster, vases of rock crystal, portraits of popes 
and cardinals and of Pluto, men with apes upon 
their shoulders, boar hunts, ancient bronze hel- 
mets, spurs, lamps, old manuscripts, vaulted aisles 



52 



and statues of the archangel Michael, all thrown 
together, with the names of Van Dyck, Rubens, 
Correggio, Raphael, Da Vinci, and Titian indis- 
criminately applied to them. I was intoxicated 
with art. But after a few days my vision clarified, 
and there came out a score of paintings and statues 
as distinctly impressed upon the mind's eye as 
the most vivid perception of the physical orb. 
All the rest is lost in the milky way of finite 
memory, but those which remain will shine on 
until the canopy is darkened with the shadowing 
of the oblivion in which our most delightful sen- 
sations, as well as those which are painful, are 
lost." 

By a fortunate accident I was permitted to do 
Pitti Palace, where the King resides, when in Flor- 
ence; the walls of each room are covered with silk, 
and the color and design of each is different. The 
chairs correspond with the finish of the walls. 
The King's Bed-room holds his bed, covered with 
lemon-colored silk tapestry filled with rich designs. 
I was shown the Ball-room, King's Reception, 
Bed-room, Boudoir and Throne-room ; the Queen's 
Reception-room and Bed-room ; the Ro} r al Dining- 
room with chairs set for sixty-six, shown where 
Victoria and Dom Pedro et alii sat, last year at 
the great reception given by Humbert I. We 
were shown through the rooms of the Prince of 
Naples, also thousands of pieces of Table-ware 
from Japan et ubique. All the gold and silver ser- 



53 



vices used on State occasions amounting to hun- 
dreds of thousands of dollars in value. 

But the very portals are guarded by lazzaroni, 
who are as grateful for a soic, as if there were a 
famine. I am not in favor of dividing out what 
is, but is not the man of this and the next century, 
he, who shall most help the masses to help them- 
selves ? Do it by writing, speaking or showing by 
example, who shall establish a sentiment that 
forces capital to divide fairly with labor ? There 
is deep down in the innate ideas of all people an 
approximate knowledge of what is right, this may 
be silenced by a thousand reasons of policy, fear, 
want of prestige, want of formulative power, but 
whatever barriers may be for the present, they will 
give way one by one, not always seen by others, 
not always seen by the man who cuts them down, 
but they must succumb. There is a difference be- 
tween men, but not an infinite difference, and an 
infinite difference in display is due to the opera- 
tion of illegitimate elements, nearly always. 

The Anarchists, the Knights of Labor et id omne 
genus are striking at errors. They commit greater 
errors, but the wickedness of these is only equalled 
by the stulticity and insatiate rapacity of those. 

Napoleon III. demanded one franc (20 cents) 
of each subject in France for himself, the bow was 
bent to the snapping point, and the Czar of Russia 
is only secure by a surveillance which any monarch 
should blush to need. The world wants men of 



54 



brains and prestige and means to go to work for 
man, and these will be forthcoming, so soon as 
the church and society following shall put a proper 
premium on that kind of labor, rather than on a 
selfish monopolizing, yet tipping bossism. 

Let christians of means indicate in their inter- 
course that the religion of Christ is a source of 
more enjoyment than earthly possessions, that a 
man's life consisteth not in the abundance of 
things possessed but in sunshine, air, water, sleep, 
digestion, domestic affection, social intercourse 
and mutual service, in serving one's generation 
according to the will of God, and a simple reliance 
upon Christ for redemption. Let it be shown until 
the restless striker shall see that there is no mon- 
opoly of all the best things and cannot be. 

Poor human society, torture thy children a few 
more decades. 

But the buds of truth will creep through the 
rough clods in God's beautiful spring time. The 
Golden Rule, so well fitted, if obeyed, to perfect 
all conditions of society, will yet be read and 
believed. 

Let those with the light lead the way. 



CHAPTER VI, 



ROME. 



St. Peters. — The Vatican. — Sistine Chapel. — Michael 
Angelo. — Rafael— Sons of Rome. — Tasso's Tomb. — 
Colosseum. — The Forum, and the Iconoclast. — Tri- 
umphal Arches. — The Churches. — Relics of Saints. — 
Prison of Paul and Peter. — Scala Sancta. — School of 
the Catholic Prophets. — Outside Pressure Modifying 
the Church. — Papal Rome and Zeit Geist. — Respon- 
sibility of the Church of Rome, and how met. — 
Bishop Wilson. — The Average Italian. 

I CAME from Florence here in the night ; it is 
about eight hours on the fast train ; I found a 
good hotel near the station. I set out to see Rome 
old and new, in company with Dr. Tagert, of 
Chicago. We started first to see^St. Peter's, the 
largest church on earth. Before the church is an 
Egyptian obelisk, the only ancient monument in 
Rome that has not been overthrown. The entire 
outlay for columns, fountains, buttresses, statues 
of saints, of which there are 162, with the pave- 
ment, on the square in front of the church was 
over $1,000,000. 

Before the end of the 17th century this church 
had cost $50,000,000; the new sacristy cost $950,- 
000; the yearly expense is $37,500; and the church 
is not done yet. But one is met on the threshold, 



56 

in the aisles, under the colonnades and on all sides 
by filthy and ragged beggars, and that in abund- 
ance. 

In the gallery I saw a bronze statue of Hercules, 
for which Pope Pius 9th gave Baron Righetti 
268,000,750 francs, about $53,200,150.00, and it 
was impossible for me to separate the idea of such 
extravagance and luxury and the thoughts of the 
existing want and ignorance of the bulk of the 
Romish church and Catholic Italy. It is but one 
of many thousands of the statues, paintings and 
relics that crowd the galleries and museums of the 
Vatican palace, purchased at enormous prices. 

Rafael and Angelo gave all their genius to the 
church. Not only the dome of St. Peters belongs 
to the latter, but the Sistine chapel, and the Log- 
gie and Stanza of the Vatican to the former, with 
thousands of feet besides. I saw no picture any- 
where more eloquent than Rafael's Transfigura- 
tion, here. The Church of Rome honored her 
sons, as she still makes immortal the writer of 
fiction, who knows to weave in his web some 
threads of which Nun's veils are made. I rejoice 
at belonging to a church that has not turned aside 
from constantly proclaiming God's will, to exhaust 
its vitality upon political schemes, and its re- 
sources in gorgeous mausoleums above its fallen 
leaders. 

From the Vatican we visited the tomb of Tasso, 
and were shown his chairs, table, desk, and the 



57 

coffin in which he was said to have rested for 
three hundred years, (this we doubted as it 
seemed too small.) 

We concluded the day with* a visit to Piazza 
Pincio, and a visit to the Colosseum by moon- 
light. I have visited it — the Colosseum four or 
five times and the grandeur of the structure grows 
on one at every visit. But looking at this amp- 
hitheatre of Vespasian, I see no good ground now 
for the lines so often quoted by tourists : 

" While stands the Colosseum, Rome shall stand 

When falls the Colosseum Rome shall fall, 

And when Rome falls, with it shall fall the world." 

For all the mighty group that cluster about the 
Forum speak from their desolation, and speak 
loudly that all the unhallowed toil of man shall 
perish. 

If one had told me how entire the ruin here, I 
could not have conceived it. Standing on the 
brow of the Capitoline hill and looking South- 
east what an array of fallen greatness rises before 
the eye ! To the South is the Palatine hill, with 
ruins of the palaces of the Cffisars, at our feet 
stands the column of Septimus Severes over 
the Via Sacra, the column of Phocas, the tyrant, 
Byron's " nameless column without a base," (that 
being buried when he wrote his poem.) Here are 
remains of the Temple of Concord, Temple of 
Vespasian, Porticus, Temple of Saturn, Rostra, 



58 



Basilica Julia, where " Great Csesar fell," Forum 
Romanorum, Temple of Castor and Pollux, Rostra 
Julia,Temple of the Vestal Virgin, Temple of Julius 
Caesar, Temple of Antoninus and Faustinae, Tem- 
ple of Romulus, Basilica of Constantine, Temple 
of Rome and of Venus, Arch of Titus, Arch of 
Constantine and the Colosseum all are open to 
the eye at a glance. Of the hundreds of columns 
which once supported fretted frieze and cornice of 
marble, porphyry, lapislazuli or giallo antico or 
bronze scarcely one remains intact; one sees 
granite and marble columns 4 and 5 feet in di- 
ameter broken up into sections of every length 
from one foot to twenty. I cannot conjecture 
how the iconoclast performed his task so thor- 
oughly, but it is done, was it not of God ! 

In one minute's walk of the Forum is the 
mamartine, traditional, prison of St. Peter and St. 
Paul, you are shown the indenture made by 
Peter's head in the stone, the Spring of miraculous 
origin, at which they baptised converts, the stone 
pillar to which they were chained, &c. It was 
in this same subterranean vault that Catiline was 
strangled, there is a passage leading under ground 
from it to the Forum. 

Of course I visited the churches that contain 
the head of St. Matthew and the teeth and fingers 
of Sts. Paul and Peter, the stone that shows the 
foot-prints of the Saviour, Peter's bones and table 
and Paul's house in the church of St. Sebastian 



59 



the Scala Sancta, where I saw several monks as- 
cending on their knees as Martin Luther when 
the light shined into his Soul. Our readers will 
remember these are called sacred because they are 
the steps on which it is claimed Jesus ascended to^ 
Pilate's judgment hall, and hence may be ascended 
only on the knees, they are marble, covered par- 
tially with wood and are twenty-eight in number. 
There are many hundreds of Catholic priests- 
here; they all wear long robes or gowns much 
like female attire, except the binding at the waist;, 
some of them go barefoot, except sandals, some 
wear ropes around their waists, and all look seri- 
ous. Hundreds of them are young theologues. 
Rome is papal. The spirit of Christianity has- 
modified the current of civilization here chiefly 
from without, I think. The refined selfishness of 
other days, the bloody aestheticism, that could 
bind Prometheus to the rock, if forsooth the last 
shadow borne to the visage from the expiring soul 
might be transmuted to canvass, expresses itself 
now otherwise. If a dominant animalism found 
expression in Templmn Veneris and the Therm ae- 
of Caracalla, and if the Colosseum and its myriads 
of victims, savage and human represented the 
tragedic, and Rome in flames the melodramatic- 
Romans of other years, there is now the anomaly 
of a Christian nation, the mother of the rest, with 
resources in the ends of the earth, literally giving 
her children stones, (to gaze at), when they ask 



60 



for bread, and contrary to the expectation of the 
Book she holds in her hand, minifies life's neces- 
sities by turning plow-shares into swords. 

And so it turns out, I am in Rome during a 
revolt. The people, exasperated, hungry and 
restless, determined to change affairs from statu quo. 

And Friday last, the mob created quite an ex- 
citement, by breaking out some windows and 
threatening farther mischief; but the military being 
on hand all soon became quiet, and many of the 
insurgents were shipped to the country. 

The dazzling splendor of kings, the pageantry 
of power the history now making, all represent so 
much oppression, represent blood and tissue, that 
might be, represent rags, that might be good 
clothing, ignorance that might be knowledge, 
weakness that might be power and ignominy that 
might be glory ! 

But the world or rather the Church was nearly 
1800 years realizing that the Lord was in earnest 
when he said, "All power is given to me, &c. 
" Go ye therefore into all the world and preach 
the Gospel to every creature," the Savior was a 
cosmopolite, and spoke for all the ages and we 
hope while we sing, 

" Strife shall cease and perfect peace 
Shall triumph bye and bye." 

In the ruined palaces of the Csesars, I met Bis- 



61 



hop Wilson of our Church and his wife returning 
from their work in our mission field. They bring 
a good report. I spent a very pleasant hour with 
the Bishop in the evening, who gave me some very 
valuable hints about Egypt and Palestine, as did 
also Col. Gorman in a letter which I received the 
same day ; and the suggestions they gave me were 
identical. I now have two splendid companions 
from America, one of whom will make the entire 
trip with me. 

I have been struck by a notice posted in every 
museum, palace, gallery or garden forbidding in 
four languages, the giving of gratuities, but we 
have found only one who refused; sometimes they 
get more than they expect and express their 
thanks profusely : again, receiving less they look 
grum. The common people here have become so 
used to servility, arid meniality that they seem to 
have no conception of self-respect, and a gentle- 
man dressed like a lord will take a soldi, one cent, 
and thank you as if it were a dollar. We hired a 
carriage to take us to the Catacombs of St. Calis- 
tus, on the Appian way, one and a half miles from 
the city, our guide contracted with us for two lira, 
but required three at settling time, we paid him, 
but took his number and left him ; he soon came 
running after us, to pay back what was due us. 
Any price is asked for a commodity but one can 
generally get it for what is just, by jewing. 



62 



It is about as cold here in Italy as December 
and January of this winter were in North Carolina. 
Snow fell to-day. and rain. We leave to-night 
for Naples. 



CHAPTER VII. 



NAPLES. 



Situation. — Beggars. — Merchants. — Feed by Travelers. 
— High Land Rent. — National museum. — Pompeii 
Herculaneum and Vesuvius. — John Gilpin Ride 
through Torre Annunciata. — Guide Holding 
Horses tail. — Imminent Peril. Red-hot Boulders fly- 
ing down the Mountain. Courage Fails. A desperate 
Venture. — Beef-steak and Maccaroni. a Horse-trade. — 
Brindisi, or Stag's Horns. — Terminus of the Appan- 
Way. 

From Rome I came to Naples, renowned for its 
close relations to Herculaneum and Pompeii rather 
than for its own achievements. Its population in 
1885, was considerably over half a million. While 
there are other characteristics peculiarly Neapoli- 
tan, observable in the priests, merchants and 
merchandise, artisans and the humblest citizens. 
There are fewer, large and princely palaces, 
while they have some very elegant squares and 
fountains thev are very limited in number, they 
have excellent street cars and a carriage any mo- 
ment to take one to 'any part of the city for mezzo- 
lira, (one dime.) Like all the cities we have visit- 
ed they seem to have excellent police regulations. 
But the beggars are legion, some of our party 
have suggested that if you look at many of them 



64 



they expect a gratuity. They are brought up to 
it, from childhood. 

Sometimes in a very thickly settled part of the 
city a dozen children will beset one altogether, 
" signor ! signor ! datemi soldi! datemi soldi!" (give 
me a cent), the philosophy of their conduct is this,, 
if they get it, it is so much made, if not, nothing 
is lost, and this disposition to beg grows with their 
growth. There are quite a number of merchants 
here, who have a sign, prezzo Jissi, price fixed, 
many others who will sell you a piece of goods for 
one lira, tie it up and declare it is two liras; only 
to-day, we took luncheon at a restaurant, inquired 
the price of coffee before ordering, was told so 
much, when Ave were ready to settle it was double ; 
An incident which occurred one day in a restau- 
rant whither we had gone for breakfast, illustrates 
one or two phases of Italian city life. 

The European Hotels sometimes give their 
guests only lodgings, sometimes breakfast, and 
sometimes all three meals. We were at one of 
the former kind to which the restaurant men- 
tioned was attached. We had called for coffe lotte, 
coffee with milk, and knew not why we had 
to wait so long, until an Italian came in with a 
large female goat, which had no sooner stop- 
ped than he stooped down behind the faithful 
nannie and began to fill a very small mouthed 
bottle with milk, for which our host paid him 
three cents, and for a teaspoonful of which put 



65 



into our coffee we had each to pay him three 
cents extra. 

We have a few times stepped into their shops 
or stores and priced articles as if we purposed 
buying; often we were asked three, four and five 
times what we could really purchase for. These 
do not read as the cities previously visited, nor is 
much now doing for education. 

Were the travel "to Naples to stop entirely for 
two years there would be fearful starvation, I be- 
lieve. The English, French, Germans and Ameri- 
cans drop hundreds of thousands here yearly. 

Italy has produced some of the first musicians, 
poets, painters, architects, and sculptors. She 
possesses one of the most delightful of climates. 
Naples has the finest of the bays; all these are the 
heritage of those now living there, and holding in 
fee simple their lawfulipatrimony. They have pre- 
served in a praiseworthy manner the works of art 
left to them, as the safest and neverfailing source 
of revenue. What the nation claims as reward for 
its care is not excessive, but every native feels 
the patrimony to be his individually, and would 
fain be enjoying, while you are passing through, 
the portion of the bounty that falls to him. 

The rich own everything here and as a rule seem 
to be oppressive. Land rents near about Naples for 
$20 to $30 yearly, and house-rent is pretty high ; 
good living is high, but the poor live very cheap. 



66 

Macaroni seems to be the chief staple of support, 
and it is made here by the car-load. 

The first day of our stay we visited the National 
Museum, admission one franc (20 cents), catalogue 
forty cents. The contents are about as follows : — 
Mural paintings from Herculaneum and Pompeii, 
the finest collection of bronzes in the world, marble 
sculptures (some master pieces), inscriptions, 
Egyptian antiquities, Mediaeval antiquities, 
crystals, bronzes, ancient terra-cottas, Papyri from 
Herculaneum, engravings (seen only by permis- 
sion), Pompeian relics, food, domestic utensils, 
ornaments, coins, vases, picture gallery ,- library of 
200,000 volumes, 4,000 MSS., some of them rare 
and of great interest. 

We visited, the second day, Pompeii, which was 
destroyed A.D. 79 by an eruption of Mt. Vesuvius. 
The excavations were going on the day we visited 
the buried city, but the principal part has been 
exhumed for many years. All enter by the Porta 
marina or sea-gate, for the sea, which is now several 
furlongs off, once reached within a few feet of the 
city walls, (admission forty cents), a guide is fur- 
nished by the government. A museum here con- 
tains several plaster casts of human bodies found 
in the streets and houses — giving a pretty fair re- 
production; also a dog, which makes almost a 
perfect cast. The general plan of the place is about 
the same as that of ancient Rome. Here is the 
Forum, about it are the Temples of Venus, Jupiter, 



67 

Mercury, Fortuna, Basilica, Pantheon, and not 
very far off the circus and amphitheatre. One is 
shown also the houses of Sallust, Tragic Poet ; C. & 
E. Kufus, Orpheus Lucretius, Faun, &c. I can 
easily believe this city was destroyed for its 
wickedness as was Sodom by divine appointment. 
It is strange to a visitor to see the people now 
building far up on the side of Vesuvius, half way 
at least from Pompeii to the top. They have two 
or three cities, as large perhaps as either of those 
overwhelmed in the year 79, not over half the 
distance from the very crater. 

Leaving Pompeii at 11:30 in company with Hon. 
E. B. Taft, of Vermont, a Californian, and our 
guide, with a horse and two ponies, we started to 
do the Volcano. Our route lay through Torre 
Annunciata, a city of 12,000 inhabitants. Mr. 
Taft had a turn for fun, and mounted on a good 
horse, he put him out at full speed through the 
town, to the consternation of everybody on the 
streets. Our guide divining his intentions seized 
the horse's tail as if to hold him back, it being im- 
possible for me and Mr. G., an old gentleman of 
three-score and more, on our ponies to do more 
than keep in sight of our illustrious leader, who 
went careering around the street corners, much, I 
imagine, like Mazeppa in his excursion from "Ban- 
gor to the dismal swamp." Our little steeds fairly 
spread themselves, but no use, the leader had the 
longest legs and thinnest flanks, besides he was a 



68 



cavalry horse, on the retired list, and had good 
wind. I should have expected that we would all 
be arrested, for riding at a gait to endanger our 
own lives and those of persons on the streets, but 
how could we be arrested? What prospect would 
a pursuer, even on a fast horse, have of ever seeing 
us, after the passing minute, and as policemen do 
not ride, we were safe. Mr. Taft bent on fun, and 
we on catching him and the guide, still holding 
the horse's tail, and looking as they swept around 
the street-corners like small boys at the end of a 
whip-cracking game that scatters them far and 
wide, flew on at Gilpin speed. It soon grew mo- 
notonous to the guide and the martial steed with 
his double load, and we came up in time to hear 
the guide say, as best he could, for his breath was 
about gone, that if that was the way we purposed 
going he would let us go without him. I was 
sorry for him, but had not got near enough to be 
heard before. 

It ill became the dignity of a State senator, a 
sexagenarian and a Methodist preacher on their 
first visit to a town to so astonish the natives as to 
call all the people from their dwellings into the 
streets, and have them to follow us as long as they 
could see us, some laughing at the fun of the 
thing, others terrified, not knowing what was about 
to happen. If we had been coming from the 
mountain instead of going to it, and the air had 
been filled with smoke and thunder, and the earth 



69 

with trembling from the restless creature as on 
that fatal day in 79, our conduct would have been 
appropriate, but under no other circumstances. 
But all is well that ends well, and we take it mpre 
leisurely as we begin the ascent in the suburbs of 
the town. Still the guide and the boy sent to hold 
our horses, hold on to the horses' tails all the way 
up to the hitching place. This is a great help to 
one walking up hill, I afterward tried it myself. 
Leaving town, we enter a vineyard about two miles 
wide, pass a few scrubby pines, about large enough 
for walking canes, and vegetation ceases. 

The soil is about the color of black lead, with a 
brownish hue. The surface of the ground for the 
first few miles is covered chiefly with gravels about 
the size of peas. We ride to within one and a half 
or two miles of the crater, where a boy holds the 
horses, and men who met us returned to assist us 
in climbing up. The horses and guide and boy 
cost seven francs for each person ; if you take a 
man to help pull you up from the place of dis- 
mounting, it costs 4 francs more, if you take a 
cane, it costs 1 franc more. Mr. Taft was heavy 
and took a help. Mr. G. and I did as well without. 
After going to within a quarter of a mile of the top, 
we found hot stones that had just rolled down, and 
every few steps more stones and hotter ; presently 
they were red hot ; a hundred yards farther and 
we saw one roll down, as large as a barrel. We 
sat down to rest, and down came one, red hot, roll- 



70 



ing down an angle of forty -five degrees going fif- 
teen or twenty miles a minute, and another; we 
could see them in time to dodge from their path. 
Now we kept on a ridge of them some ten feet 
higher than the track down which they were 
tumbling, and which seemed to be a kind of high- 
way for them ; soon we came to a sluice of red hot 
lava, twenty feet wide and several feet deep, run- 
ning down like thick molasses. We could not go 
nearer than within ten feet of it, so intense was 
the heat. Our guide offered to imbed a penny in a 
molten piece for a franc. Mr. Taft had him to put 
two pennies in two pieces. He did so but it was 
unsatisfactory, the impression of the coin being so 
vague. I got one of them however as a souvenir 
of our meeting and Vesuvius. 

The fumes of sulphur and gases well nigh stifled 
us ,and so dense was the smoke that all stopped 
short of the entire journey, save myself and guide, 
who protested against going farther, but not ex- 
pecting to come this way again right away, and' 
being so near, I was determined to look down the 
throat of this heaving, stewing, thundering mon- 
ster. So the guide fearful of losing his position 
and pour boire, went with me to the top, and my 
ambition was satisfied. I felt it to be risking my 
life, and my stay was short ; you see where a whole 
mountain has fallen in, to fill the vacuum made 
perhaps when Pompii and Herculaneum were 
buried ; and it is probable that the thousands and 



71- 

millions of tons, since belched forth, have left arr 
immence cavity, which may cause a falling in of 
the sides at any time. I hurried back through 
smoke and foetid gases, sometimes almost suf- 
focated and every moment fearful of a block of 
heaved-out lava. It was very disagreeable on ac- 
count of the snow, some of which was melted 
and made with the pebbles and ashes a muddy 
track, it was smooth, however, and in ten minutes 
we were on our steeds again. As no one has given 
me any adequate idea of this volcano so I do not 
hope to do better for others. Long ridges of lava, 
several hundreds of yards in length, sometimes 
twenty feet high and from twenty feet to one hun- 
dred feet wide, seem to have been placed artificial- 
ly, and but yesterday. These are of many colors 
from the black slag to the dura petra nearly white. 
On the South side the mountain has kept active so 
long, sending out matter which hardens often near 
the summit until it is very high and sharp, the 
ascent for the last several minutes, being about 45°. 
The animals we rode were very diminutive as 
are nearly all the equine species seen in Italy. Mr. 
G. who is an elderly gentleman started with Beef- 
steak but not liking his qualities offered to swap 
with me. Of course, I accommodated him ; but 
after trying Macaroni, he concluded he had cheated 
himself and wished to trade back and we traded 
again. He then thought he was cheated again but 
determined to take vengance out on Beefsteak by 



72 



whipping him. The animal was so short he struck 
clear by and missed the object of his ire every 
time. He then contented himself by abusing the 
Italians. 

We left next day for Brindisi, the ancient 
Brundusium of the Romans, whence we sailed to 
Alexandria Brindisi has nothing of special interest 
except its name, which means the antlers of a 
stag, the promontories that jut out into the water 
there being in appearance very much like a stag's 
horns, and the pillars that stand there to mark 
the terminus of the Appian Way, which the 
Romans paved to Rome three hundred and fifty 
miles. Only one of these, however, is left now, 
the other having been thrown down by an earth- 
quake. 

We passed on the way Bari where St. Nicholas 
is buried and where the pious Greeks of Russia go 
yearly to buy a bottle of precious snow water. 
This is specially holy in their esteem and some 
times sells at fabulous prices. We went down the 
Adriatic coast and in sight of Xanthe and Greece. 
There are seven clergymen aboard, of whom 
four are Presbyterians, one a Baptist, one an 
Episcopalian, and myself, a Methodist. Two of 
them are missionaries, one representing the Chris- 
tian Guild, of Scotland, the other the church of 
England. Drs. Whigham, of Ireland, and Black, 
of Scotland, are going to Mt. Sinai, after they 
return from their trip up the Nile, whither I shall 



73 



accompany them, and whence, D. V., I shall write 
you again. 



CHAPTER VIII. 



EGYPT. 



Alexandria.— Up the Nile.--The Soil.— Mud-towns.— How 
they Travel. — City Life, Stores, Dress. — How the Peo- 
ple are Watered — Sakyah and Shadoof. — Topography 
of Nile Vallev.— Fertility, Population, Stock. 

Cairo.— The Citadel.— Mosque of Mahomet Ali. — Ma- 
hometan Worship. — How Christians do when vis- 
iting a Mosque. — Joseph's Well. — Saut du Mameluke. — 
Cheops. — A Visit to the Top and Interior. — Caught 
in the Net of the Arabs. 

WE landed at Alexandria about 8 o'clock 
Thursday morning, and taking a ride 
over the city went to Cairo the same afternoon. 

The ride up the Nile was the most interesting 
of my life. While the objects along the way were 
* not just such as I had expected, they were not 
below expectation. The railroad crosses arms of 
the river and canals often, while every spot of 
ground is covered with the rankest herbage. The 
soil is a dark brown, almost black loam. This 
deposit of the Nile is 30 to 60 feet deep. Its ca- 
pacity to produce is limited only by the time 
required for plant maturity and irrigation. Along 
the road are hundreds of towns made of sun- 
dried brick — not a single one made of timber. 
We passed many thousands of Arabs on the road, 



75 



most of whom were riding donkeys; these are 
very diminutive, being only 3|- or4i feet high, yet 
I often saw two men on one donkey. A great 
many camels are used also. 

The first thing that strikes a stranger in the 
towns is the dress of the people, and their com- 
mercial habits. One can only tell a male from a 
female by the beard, and a veil worn by females 
over the nose. Married women also wear a stick 
or brass tube, about like a number 12 cartridge, 
between trie eyes; this conceals the face entirely, 
with the exception of the eyes, and the hollow 
tube admits fresh air for respiration. 

Their stores are only a few feet deep, and some- 
times all their goods are on the floor, even when 
their stock is bread. They sit often on the ground 
seemingly indifferent to customers, smoking pipes 
that will hold a whole package of Durham smok- 
ing tobacco. They all smoke. 

Alexandria and Cairo have many water car- 
riers ; the men sell, the women donate. I have 
not yet learned why this is. The men carry it in 
large skins — goat skins — holding about 10 or 12 
gallons, price about 5 cents per gallon of filtered 
Nile water, which is very good. I need not re- 
mark upon the excessive filthiness of these people 
when it is remembered that it seldom rains here. 
One has no idea of the dust that is made by the 
travel of thousands of donkeys and camels, cows, 
goats and sheep daily over the highways. It is 



76 



very hot; a little toil fills one with perspiration ; 
they go into the canal with their beasts, and all 
lave together, after which they fill their water jars 
and take them home. You can see fleas crawling 
about upon them ; often one sees a dozen flies in 
their eyes ; many of them are half clad, many en- 
tirely nude. It is said there is either a cow, camel, 
goat or donkey for every acre of land in the Delta, 
and a person for every animal. I believe the true 
estimate puts one person for every two acres of 
land. 

I suppose they irrigate their land much as they 
did five thousand years ago, or earlier, for I can- 
not think of anything more primitive. They raise 
it by a system of sweeps, like our sweep-wells, 
only shorter levers are used; sometimes four sets 
are required to raise the water 20 or 25 feet high, 
each set lifting a basket full (flag baskets) five or 
six feet high, where it is emptied into a large 
cavity in the bank and again carried up. They 
call these shadoofs. Another way is to have a 
horozontal spur-wheel (sakyah) turned by a cow 
or camel blindfold, or person to work in a perpen- 
dicular wheel with jars fastened to an endless 
chain. This raises it and empties into a trough 
connecting with a ditch, and so the water is car- 
ried for miles over the fields, which are level as 
far as the foot hills. I believe they are a little 
lower at the base of the hills than at the margin 
of the river, owing to the greater deposit near the 



77 



stream during the annual overflow. This facili- 
tates the irrigation, as the water flows down an 
inclined plane from the start. 

When one sees the fertility of this valley, the 
sweetness of the Nile water, he is not surprised 
that these people, without a knowledge of the true 
God, should have deified the stream to which they 
seemed to owe all their support, especially when 
the manner of its early overflowing and enriching 
the land without any rains, so far as they knew, 
was so mysterious and wonderful. 

I am told here that each farmer has to give $5 
per acre yearly to the government as tax, (the 
government owns the land largely) they raise 
three and four crops yearly, consisting of barley, 
rice, clover, beans, &c, large herds of cattle and 
sheep for Alexandria and Cairo markets, and I 
judge other cities also. 

The city of Cairo is now the centre of the world 
in more senses than one. It is not only the seat 
of the Khedive's dominions in the North of Afri- 
ca, but now is the season, and travelers from the 
Continent, Great Britain and America are here 
in abundance. I met two young gentlemen of the 
U. S. Man of War Essex (I think) now on the 
way home from a tour round the world, Mr. 
Scales, of Greensboro, N. C, and Mr. Russell, of 

, N. C. There are travelers from nearly every 

American State. They have an English quarter, 
a French quarter and perhaps a German quarter. 



78 

Everything looks like spring, everybody seems 
happy, and Cairo, already numbering 400,000 in- 
habitants, keeps booming. 

We visited the Citadel, where the finest pano- 
rama in all Egypt lies out before the spectator 
from the South side of the Mosque of Mahomet 
Ali. We btood on this terrace for an hour or two' 
studying Cairo, every part of which is visible 
with hundreds of Mosques and minarets and pal- 
aces. The Pyramids of Ghizeh, 8 miles to the 
west of Sakarah, 15 or 20 miles to the South, and 
Old Cairo between. We visited the Mosque, which 
is of Alabaster, and contains the body of Ma- 
homet Ali ; here lamps are kept burning all the 
time. The floor is covered with th§ finest Persian 
carpets and rugs, on which the worshipers sit in- 
stead of on pews. It was Friday or Mohomedan 
Sabbath, and one solitary Arab sat cross-legged, 
swinging back and forth and repeating in a whin- 
ing song verses of the Koran. I think this sect 
are the howlers instead of the dancers, whom we 
visited later in the day. Christians are not per- 
mitted in the enclosure after the hour for worship 
to begin. Sandals were provided for visitors, for 
which backsheesh is expected. We then visited Jo- 
seph's well, which is 290 feet deep, from which 
pure water is elevated by donkeys. At the bot- 
tom this well is square and 15 or 18 feet in diam- 
eter ; in the solid stone, around the main shaft, a 
stairway leads to the bottom. We descended partly 



79 



down, enough to get a good idea of the whole 
We passed out by the narrow defile in which Ma- 
homet Ali had 450 Mamelukes, with their leader 
Ibrahim Bey, killed in 1811, for fear of their rev- 
olutionary plans ; 800 more were killed in the city. 
Emin Bey escaped by leaping his horse over the 
battlement. His horse was, crushed to death, but 
he escaped. The eastern terrace, 100 feet high, 
from which he leaped, is called La Saut du Mame- 
luke. 

We rode out to see Cheops and the Sphinx, 140 
feet long, plus 50 feet for the paws ; the head is 
over 100 feet in circumference and the body. 40 
feet in diameter. We ascend Cheops alone, with- 
out help, (this is quite a triumph) especially when 
harangued by a dozen Arabs before and behind, 
and all around ; also went into the interior, into 
the King's and Queen's chambers, both of which 
have been written so much about. I hesitate to 
say more than that the entrance is fraught with 
the greatest danger, being by a descent and then 
an ascent of 20 to 40 degrees over stones worn 
smooth as glass. The king's chamber, 34 feet by 
17 feet, and 16 feet high, is the most reverberating 
of any hall I ever entered. It contained a muti- 
lated, lidless sarcophagus, about whose purpose 
there is much conjecture. Some say it is a coffin, 
•some a treasure chest, some say it was designed 
for a universal standard of measure corresponding 
to the laws of the Hebrews, etc. As our carriage 



80 



approached the base we noticed men on the sum- 
mit of the pyramid, and they looked like toy men 
on f a mantel. This delusion was owing to the 
great bulk of matter just beneath. Cheops covers 
nearly thirteen acres of land, and has been com- 
puted to contain enough stone to build the city of 
Washington, D. C, government buildings and all. 
It is about an hour's ride by carriage from Cairo, 
on the foot of the Lybian range of hills bordering 
on the Lybian desert. 

When we were returning from the interior of the 
pyramid, my Arab guides managed to get before 
me at the critical turning from the shaft descend- 
ing from the king's chamber to the shaft or tunnel 
leading up and out. It is difficult to get from one 
to the other, and perilous even with good light, 
but here they extinguished their candles and mine, 
and I knew not what was next, for I had left my 
friend on top, who said he did not care to venture 
within. A man thinks rapidly when unexpected 
danger suddenly confronts him. So I. What* 
does it mean? There are a hundred of them out- 
side. What can my friend do alone? He was 
afraid to come in with me, much more will he 
fear to do so now ; beside, what could he do if he 
should come ? Will they kill me and drop me in 
the deep well they showed me a moment since,, 
that is just behind me ? 

These, with many other apprehensions, shot 
through my mind like electricity. I had not been 



81 



in Egypt over twelve hours; I did not understand 
the Arabs. Everything I had seen of them dis- 
gusted me. I had heard and read of their treach- 
ery, but felt safe in sight of. Cairo, of English 
troops, with an English gentleman on the top, 
especially since I had paid the sheik three shil- 
lings for the privilege of penetrating this "miracle 
in stone" that was as much mine as his. Every 
one who has travelled among the Arabs has antic- 
ipated me, I know, when I tell them that back- 
sheesh, Howadji ! was the first sound that filled the 
darkness; Yes, they wanted this job settled for 
then and there. I told them certainly I would 
give them plenty of backsheesh — they lighted up 
and in'another minute we stood from under. And 
for the first and last time (though amongst them 
for two months afterwards) satisfied them with 
backsheesh. It was now sundown, but my friend 7 
seeing me safe outside, determined to try it him- 
self, with an experience similar to mine. 

We went through many of their bazaars, in 
which they sell fruits of Egypt and other coun- 
tries — cane, dates, oranges, bread, eggs, cheese, 
birds, fish, etc., etc. All manner of fabrics of 
cloth, carpets, rugs, etc., from Arabia and Persia; 
pipes and tobacco and cigarettes, boots, shoes, slip- 
pers and fur caps, hardware, and flag-ware and. 
jars by the ten thousand, and everything else al- 
most, and all on the ground in the streets on a 
rug, each man or firm just having what they could 



82 



take off convenient^ at night. We go up the 
Nile to Lugsor and will finish doing Cairo when 
we return. 



CHAPTER IX. 



FARTHER UP THE NILE. 



Haste Makes Waste Traveling. — Nice Companions. — 
Copts. — Floating Stations. — What Arabs Eat. — A 
" Blind Man Eloquent."— A Blind Boy More Eloqu- 
ent. — Products of the Country. — Thebes. — Tombs of 
the Kings — Necropolis — Ramesium — Memnonium. — 
Monstrous Monoliths. — Statue of Rameses, the Great. 
— Medinet Habou. — Theodosius, Destroyer of Hea- 
thenism and Art. — Luqsor. — Oldest Temple on Earth 
and Tallest Obelisk.— 3064 B. C— Egyptians of Old 
Like Moderns. 

I HAD arranged to take the trip up the Nile with 
Drs. Whigham and Black on Cook's steamer 
being a little careless about securing a berth, found 
when I did make application that all had been 
taken. They wished to register me in Rome for 
this excursion at £50, also at Naples for the same 
price, but at Brindisi they offered me a ticket for. 
£25 sterling, also at Alexandria, but as I had 
profited by being slow to close a bargain I held 
back, and with advantage. We took the govern- 
ment postal steamer and found Bishop Fowler and 
family of the M. E. Church, and Dr. Plummer and 
family of California on board; this gave us a select 
party and enabled us to study the country in its 
resources, its institutions and population as a mere 
pleasure-seeking excursion could not do. 



84 



We learned that the Copts, about one-eighth of 
the inhabitants, hold about one-fourth or more of 
the offices, they are more competent, and being 
weak in a military sense are awake to their inter- 
est, and try to educate themselves. They hold 
nearly all the positions in civil service, while the 
military positions for obvious reasons are given to 
Mahometans. The Copts have only one wife, and 
are all Christians. They never intermarry with 
Arabs. 

The stations of the postal service are all on flat- 
boats anchored to the shore because of the ever 
shifting banks and level of the water under the 
annual overflow of the Nile. At these stations 
hundreds of Arabs gather on the arrival of the 
boat with cane, bread, eggs, cheese-curds, vegeta- 
bles, pigeons, &c, &c, to sell, sometimes a hundred 
crying their wares at once until however much 
you want a thing, your only chance to get it is to 
catch the eye of the vender. At the same time 
from twenty-five to fifty are crying backsheesh. 

At Abooteeg all others gave way to an old blind 
man who yelled enough for a dozen. Our captain 
said his words at first mean, " Oh, my Lord," this 
he repeated some scores of times, he would then 
vary, and finally appealed to our idea of the ridic- 
ulous by barking like a dog " bow ! wow, wow! " 
so rapidly and with such frantic jesticulations, and 
leaping as to permanently monopolize the atten- 
tion of all, and secure his backsheesh. 



85 



At the next station was a blind boy, who ap- 
pealed only to the emotions and promise of reward 
for benefactions, he had memorized those passages 
in the Koran suited to his purpose, these he used 
with great effect. The Arabs were moved as by 
the spell of eloquence and contributed, as did also 
the Christians. 

The valley of the Nile from Assiout, 330 miles 
from Alexandria is between the Lybian hills on 
the west and Arabian on the east. They rise sud- 
denly from the plain 500 feet high, presenting a 
barren front of a kind of limestone and begin the 
deserts of the same name. The valley is from 
three to twenty miles wide, and all under cultiva- 
tion. The river will rise again in three months 
and in those sandbars left bare now they are plant- 
ing water-melon seed. There are plenty of to- 
matoes, peas, beans,S&c, of [this season's growth. 
We saw also water-melons in Cairo. They have 
harvested their sugar cane, and our captain says 
one acre will make three barrels of sugar. They also 
are harvesting barley jwhich only grows eighteen 
inches high but as thickjlas it will grow. Flax is 
maturing. 

The Khedive ownslmanyjsugar factories along 
the Nile, making the best] standard brands, and 
the^ price is about the same as with us. There are 
also very large jug and jar factories here, as all the 
vessels used for water are earthen-ware. We saw 
perhaps fifty thousand at*one place — Farshoot. 



86 



From Karnak we went to the tombs of the 
kings, the temples of ancient Thebes and Lugsor. 
These tombs are up a defile between the Lybian 
Mountains about one and a half miles from the 
plain of the river and are all near together ; they 
are tunnels open at one end, and descending some- 
times at a small angle, sometimes very steep, and 
are divided into a great many chambers, the prin- 
cipal one being for the king's sarcophagus and 
remains. One we visited, No. 17, of Sethi I., de- 
scends 180 feet below the entrance, and the bottom, 
which is nearly four hundred feet distant from the 
entrance, is more than five hundred feet perpen- 
dicular from the top of the hill under which it 
was dug. The walls and ceiling are full of carved 
hieroglyphics except No. 17, which, much superior 
to the rest every way, is done in bass-relief. I 
took some copies of the hieroglyphics from several 
of these tombs but the relief copied much the best. 
We lunched in one of these, and rode through the 
Necropolis to the temple-tomb (of marble) of Queen 
Hatasou and the Ramesium — Temple of Rameses 
II., and Temple of Medinet Habou and the Mem- 
nonium of Strabo where only a few foundation 
stones and the gigantic colossi alone remain, one 
of these is said to have greeted Aurora with a song 
each morning, the expansion caused by the sun's 
heat (it being shattered) no doubt has at times 
made noise enough to attract (attention and give 
rise to the legend. They once stood at the entrance 



87 



of a temple nearly one-fourth of a mile in lengtn. 
Many of the columns of the temple of Rameses, 
the Great still stand with the Osiride images in 
situ, but much defaced. The' most important 
thing here is the statue of Rameses. It is a mono- 
lith of red granite, representing the king setting, 
hands on his knees, at peace with his enemies. 

It was originally 75 feet high and over 22 feet 
across the shoulders, and is estimated to weigh 887 
tons. It has been thrown down and much broken, 
many millstones having been taken from the very 
face, but from the armpits up it is entire, except 
much mutilated, and is above ground, so as to 
exhibit just what it was, the largest statue in the 
world. But how it became so broken to pieces, no 
man knoweth. This is No of the Scriptures, Ezek. 
30:13 etc., and I turned and read up the prophecies 
and decrees of God against these idolatrous cities 
and I saw that they are literally fulfilled. We 
went one mile south to the Temple of Medinet 
Habou, where the only naval battle of the 
Egyptians is recorded on the walls. Here is a great 
succession of temples, giving much history; here 
the victors are cutting off and counting the hands 
of the vanquished. Once a Christain church 
was in the precincts of this temple, in the very 
court where we now stand. I cannot recall 
at this writing how it was destroyed. All the 
works of art here have been destroyed nearly. 
Theodosius, anxious to root out idolatry, ruined 



88 



much, perhaps jealous and envious conquerors, 
more. All these temples, while at a good elevation 
above the Niles's overflow, are still underground, 
except where reclaimed by scientists. The people 
clustered around these deserted temples after their 
overthrow and lived in them and built around 
them until debris accumulating, they built on the 
tops of them, and so they became buried, and there 
being no communication about such things betw'een « 
the inhabitants and lovers of antiquity, these 
cities and temples were long lost. There are 
miserable mud towns all around every one of them 
now. 

The next day we visited the Temple of Luqsor, 
the most imposing in the world, with 4 splendid 
pylons still standing, the tallest obelisk in the 
world (92 feet high) of red granite, the most 
massive and best preserved columns; one court 
alone containing 134 columns, twelve feet in 
diameter and sixty feet high, with capitals of 
open and closed lotus — called the forest of 
columns. The whole is If miles in circumfer- 
ence, andL dating, a part of it, to 3064 B. C. The 
Temple of Karnak is said to have been built by 
Joseph. All the facade remains and is supported 
by well preserved columns. We stopped at Den- 
derah returning and found a temple entire, on the 
pattern partially of the tabernacle and from which 
evidently the Catholic temples or Cathedrals of 
to-day received their models. 



89 



Studying this country in its relics — Pyramids, 
tombs and temples, studying it to-day in its 
mosques, palaces and service, studying its history, 
past and the history making, one is impressed by 
its similarity to European powers, especially 
Italian, Russian and Austrian and The Papacy 
and the others to an extent, how that for centuries 
they have followed the good old rule, the simple 
plan "that he may take who has the power, and 
he may keep who can." Not satisfied with 
monopolizing all the means of life but the barest 
necessities and all the life force of the individual 
but just enough to resuscitate. When exhausted, 
it can yield no more. I say, not content to hold 
it while living they have erected repositories in 
shape of these monuments for its retention after 
they are gone. 

The Cathedrals of Romanism, built with mil- 
lions, correspond in many details to these of 
Egypt— burial places for Popes and Cardinals. 



CHAPTER X. 



DOWN THE NILE TO CAIRO. 



Of the Biver, Boats, Cargo, Birds, Thermometer. — On, 
where Moses was educated. — Trying to Escape. — 
Donkey -boys. — Flight. — Pursuit. — Capture. — Death, 
Burial without a Coffin.— Another funeral Procession. 
Haggar, Ali, Ten Widows. — A Juggler. 

THE Nile, one-fourth to one-half mile wide, 
increases in size from its mouths upwards 
for fourteen hundred miles, owing to the vast 
quantity of water used for irregation, and evapora- 
tion and the fact that through all this distance it 
is without a tributary. The water is somewhat 
muddy but when filtered is clear and cool. Be- 
sides the steamer, two or three other kinds of 
boats ply on the bosom of Sihor, as the ancients 
called the Nile. The largest of these is called the 
dahabeah. ' It has state-rooms like a steamer, but 
is moved by sails and oars. They are often fifty 
feet in length, perhaps eighty or a hundred. As 
every nation that uses ships has a peculiar sail 
with which to drive them, so the sails of an 
Egyptian boat are like birds' wings drawn out 
straight, the points farthest from the mast are 
sharp. They are stretched on a boom and sheets, 



91 



supported by a long mast balanced on an upright 
post rather than mast, and at such an angle as the 
sailors choose. One-half of the dahabeah is devoted 
to staterooms, saloons, &c, the other cargo, deck 
room for the liberty of those managing sails and 
oars. Other boats (Morkebs) using sails when 
the wind favored and long heavy oars, laden with 
wheat, sheep, water jars, &c, went down to Cairo 
and Alexandria, and returned well nigh empty. 
Sometimes half a dozen Arabs tugged them slowly 
up the stream by a long rope, sometimes in the 
water sometimes on the bank. We have noticed 
their boats and cargo covered over with a net- 
work that allowed the cargo of water-jars to reach 
several feet beyond the sides of the boat. The 
wheat was poured out in the boat without sacks, as 
it was on the ground when they reached market. 

Thousands' of natives, nude except a breech- 
cloth or clout, raise water to irrigate the lands 
daily, for from one to three piastres, five to fifteen 
cents, per day. Herons fly round us all the time 
and fine large ducks, and the sacred Ibis, while 
hordes of tame uncouth monsters called here 
buffaloes come down and wallow in the Nile like 
hogs. 

In the morning and evening it is pleasant on 
the Nile but in the middle of the day it is hot, 
no clouds protect one from the sun during the 
day. At night overcoats are needed. 

Returning to Cairo I visited On or Heliopolis, 



92 



where Moses was graduated, about six miles Xorth 
west from Cairo. I went alone as my companions 
had gone to the pyramids, which I had visited 
previously. The price of a carriage was ten shil- 
lings, and as I had proved their excellent qualities 
of locomotion in upper Egypt determined to ride 
a donkev. and he would cost me, with a donkev- 

J 7 J 

boy, only three shillings. There is always a crowd 
of boys and men with donke} T s to hire on the 
streets of Cairo, and as soon as they learned that 
I wanted one, twenty or thirty surrounded me, 
each proclaiming the superiority of his animal 
over those of others. I did not want to go at that 
moment, so crowding to the margin of the mob I 
ran as fast down a side street as I could. One of 
them gave a signal to another company a head of 
me, and they started to meet me, the former fol- 
lowing, and so hemmed me in between the walls; 
full forty of them, each with a donkey to let, and 
each determined that I should ride his. Seeing no 
way of escape, I took out my knife and began 
hacking as if I would cut them to pieces and try- 
ing to look as desperate as possible, but all to no. 
avail ; they never noticed the knife more than if I 
had had none, so I took a donkey and am sure 
the worst donkey boy in Egypt, and started to see 
the remains of Egypts's old university town. On 
the road I passed a cemetery where they were 
burying a babe without a coffin, as they have no 
timber out of which to make coffins. It was wrap- 



93 



ped up very tightly, rather I should say bound 
up, laid in the recess on one side and the sand 
and gravel poured in upon it. I was ordered to 
quit the place before the interment was complete, 
which I afterward learned was because I was un- 
clean, being only a Christian I had no fright, and 
they determined not to suffer me to pollute the 
sacred place. 

On leaving I saw a woman veiled and seated 
about fifty yards away weeping aloud. I asked 
my donkey-boy the cause of her weeping, he said 
she was the child's mother. I asked why she was 
there alone. " She does not want the men to see 
her face." he said. 

It was my fortune to witness two other funeral 
processions the same day. One was that of Ha__. ; 
Ali. evidently a man of distinction and popular, 
by the style and size of the procession, and the 
fact that ten widows were following his bier, over 
which most gorgeous banners floated high in the 
air. 

Another corpse followed by a large concourse 
and five wives, had been no doubt a man of im- 
portance, whose name I never learned. 

We passed on the way to On a multitude oi 
Arabs formed in a circle about thirty feet in di- 
ameter. We paused to ascertain the cause of the 
excitement. A snake-charmer had two striped 
snakes about a yard long, which were crawling 
about over his bare shoulders, arms aud neck, and 



94 



he was making his little boy, about five years old, 
handle them in the same way. The boy very re- 
luctantly undertook his part, whereupon the 
father (if he were a father) would take a clasp 
made of iron, spring it open, run one end in the 
boys mouth the other resting on his cheek and 
pressing so tightly that the blood would oose out, 
while he would stand off and deliver an animated 
speech in Arabic to the delighted spectators, not 
seeming to notice his boy whose anguish was ex- 
pressed in wailings and tears. I could not witness 
such inhuman conduct and hurried away. 

Nothing of interest remains save the obelisk, 
the oldest one standing, at which Moses and 
Joseph before (and old Jacob and Abraham) must 
often have looked, and perhaps criticised the hiero- 
glyphics on it, and our Savior, in infancy may 
have looked at it as the tree called the " Virgin's 
Tree," where the holy family is said to have rested, 
when they fled into Egypt,- is nearly in sight. An 
old sycamore, cut and scarred by vain tourists, 
standing about eighty yards from the highway, is 
reached by passing through a gate and the walks 
of a lovely garden, where backsheesh is wanted 
when you enter, while you stay and when you 
leave, in fact the gate-keeper refused to let me out 
until I had satisfied some half dozen scalawags 
who seized my donkey's bridle and tail when I 
mounted to start and wanted more ; but after all 
you can often satisfy half a dozen of them with a 



95 



dime, while again the}^ will clamor until they 
have gotten two or three times as much as they 
have earned ; and the only way to deal with them 
satisfactorily is to fix the price of everything before 
starting with them, pay this only at the end of the 
journey, or they will never complete it. 

I went with a gentleman of Dr. Whigham's party 
to the pyramids the first day we were in Cairo. 
We bargained to give fifteen shillings for a carriage 
and guide, he unwittingly paid him before reach- 
ing our hotel, and because we did not give "back- 
sheesh," he stopped, we paid him a shilling to go 
•on, he drove about fifty yards and stopped again, 
wanting more "backsheesh," and we could not urge 
him farther. We reached the hotel on foot. It 
was our first day amongst them and we had not 
learned their tricks. They are superlatively filthy, 
though some are scrupulously cleanly. We saw 
hundreds of them lying on the streets asleep in 
the scorching sunshine. In the main they are 
very healthy looking; they live on bread and 
vegetables, rice and buffalo milk. 

There was a fine mission work being prosecuted 
here in Cairo, under Dr. Lansing and Dr. Bliss 
(who has since died) of the Presbyterian Church. 
We visited them and heard them relate how they 
had moved on from a small beginning to large suc- 
cess. We saw about one hundred young Arab 
men belonging to their church in a debating socie- 
ty, discussing some query in quite a lively man- 



96 



ner, but it was all Arabic to us. The missionary at 
Luqsor was absent while we were there, but we 
met several of his pupils, which are more or less 
creditable to him. I think he is doing a fair work. 
How they can endure the summer here is more 
than I can understand. Life must be in great 
peril later in the season. But when the Lord said, 
" Who will go for us ?" The love of Christ and 
souls constrained them and they said, " Here am 
I, send me." 

I and Mr. Merrill went to the Boulac Museum, 
the most important of any in the world on some 
accounts. Here are the best preserved and most 
numerous works of art of the ancient Egyptians 
and the most illustrious mummies that now exist 
or ever will. Julius Caesar or even Alexander, the 
Great would be moderns besiple these hoary mon- 
archs. But here they are in a state of excellent 
preservation. 

Here is Sethi I., whose tomb we explored at 
Thebes, done in bass-relief from the entrance to 
the most remote recesses, at a cost, no doubt reck- 
oning on our basis of valueing time and labor, of 
many millions of dollars. Fully ten thousand 
square feet of surface was filled with raised letters 
and heiroglyphics, recounting his origin, history, 
conquests, the public buildings that had been 
built under his regime, &c, &c. 

Here is the Pharoah, whose daughter found 
little Moses, at whose table Moses ate, on whose 



97 



knees he sat, these same hands no doubt smoothed 
back the curls from his parched brow many a day 
when he came in from play. He is a little above 
the medium height, and very dark, owing probably 
to the embalming material. Just beside him is' 
his son, Rameses the II., commonly called Remeses 
the Great. He is bright. He began to rule on 
the throne at 11 years of age, and waged war at 7 
years of age, he ruled 67 years altogether; he was 
three years younger than Moses and no doubt they 
had many a boyish joust and turn down in the 
Nile. He is that Pharaoh who was angry at 
Moses, when he heard that Moses had taken an 
Egyptian's life, and he sought to kill him, and 
Moses fled from his face, and from Egypt until 
Rameses was dead : he is the author of the largest 
Monolith image ever made; under him Egypt 
obtained quiet from all her enemies. 

He is known to Egyptologists as the Pharaoh of 
the oppression (of the Israelites.) 

Besides these is Thothmes the 3rd, known as 
the Napoleon of Egypt, because he was the greatest 
of her warriors. 

Standing in the presence of these old monarchs 
of antiquity and thinking of the changes since 
their day and how they laid the foundation to so 
large an extent of all subsequent civilization, it 
seemed as if the ends of the earth were come 
together. 

As I looked down upon their upturned faces 



98 

that did not seem more than a decade to have 
suffered by the ravages of time, I thought of the 
poet's words : 

"The cloud capped mountains, the gorgeous palaces 
and all which them inhabit shall dissolve and come to 
naught and like the unsubstantial basis of a vision leave 
not a wreck behind." 

One is awed in the presence of the universal 
slayer's -mighty victims. Could those silent lips 
but speak what stories could they relate ! What 
light cast upon the dark and distant past, about 
our fathers who went down into Egypt, and 
sojourned there, in a strange land; about these 
old tombs and temples, obelisks and pyramids, 
through which the antiquarian wanders, and pon- 
ders, vainly trying to make them reveal their 
secrets. Could it be authoritatively announced that 
on a given day they would rise in their coffins and 
tell their experiences, what a pilgrimage of Savants 
there would be. Every additional item of knowl- 
edge however only confirms our sacred records. 
The sight of these old kings was well worth the 
journey to Egypt, and had I seen no more should 
have felt myself to be well repaid. 

I thought if man has acquired the skill of thus 
preserving from decay the perishable body of his 
fellowman, what an easy task will it be for the 
great Creator to summon the scattered particles of 



99 



those who have not been preserved by the embalm - 
ers art, on the resurrection morning ! 

" Why should it be thought a thing incredible 
that God should raise the dead !" 



CHAPTER XI. 



SUEZ CANAL. 



Lingering glance along Moses' track, Joseph. — Suez Canal, 
Ismail, Simoon, On foot in the Desert. Indignation 
meeting. — Dredges. — Port Said. — How we didn't bull- 
dose the S. S. Co. — A live town, Frank and Arab. — 
Grown women at five.- Gambling Hells. — How a 
Love of Backsheesh spoiled one Arab's Mouth. — 
Highway of the Nations. — Missions. 

FOLLOWING backward the course over which 
earthly kingdoms have passed, I am in the 
midst of a people, " who," as our own Fuller says, 
seem to " have no destiny but dying," in a land 
which once was, and might still have been the 
first and greatest of nations. 

We came from Cheops here, Cheops built for 
the habitation of one corpse, which was so despised 
by the subjects, whose toil built it, that Herodotus 
says i^ had to be conveyed away secretly, and his 
name never called by them, fulfilled the words of 
truth, "the name of the wicked shall rot." 

But on its summit, one has the finest view in 
Egypt, and the best place for meditation, as one 
turns the pages of Egypt's history or paints the 
scenes on fancy's canvass that have transpired 
along the Nile and helped the world to be great 



101 



and miserable. As we flew along through the land 
of Goshen towards the Suez Canal, I read again 
how God dealt with Pharaoh, the man raised up 
to show what long suffering and authority belong 
to God. The story of Joseph, the finest and most 
succinct delineation of human nature, of the 
domestic affections and the strength of blood 
affinities, of the special providence of God, of the 
strength and rewards of faith, of the nature and 
power of prayer — a story that has ever had a 
beauty supernatural and a pathos elsewhere un- 
equalled, appeared still more excellent when I 
here read it again. 

I tried to picture the two and a half millions of 
Hebrews taking up their line of march towards 
the Eed Sea, and Pharaoh worried almost to 
death by Moses, a friend, could he but have seen 
it, after burying his first-born, gathering his 
armies, it may be from the very necropolis to 
pursue the malcontents and force them to return, 
the safe passage of the latter, and the final catas- 
trophe that overwhelmed the haughty monarch 
and his hosts. 

We reached Ismail, on the Canal, where 
we stayed all night, in one of the prettiest 
towns on earth. The streets are as straight 
as an arrow, well shaded, macademized and 
intersected by street car lines. The inhabit- 
ants are French and Arabs, and number three or 
four thousand. 



102 



The next morning was so stormy that we could 
not go aboard the steamer, because the canal here 
passes through a large lake and the waves were so 
violent we could not come near enough in small 
boats to board her, and we had to walk three miles 
to pier No.' 6. There were many weakly ladies in 
the company, some of whom could not obtain 
conveyances and had to walk also, and were of 
course exhausted. They were under the supervi- 
sion of tourists' agents and held an indignation 
meeting that evening, after reaching Port Said, 
severely censuring Cook & Son for allowing them 
to suffer such inconveniences and also for de- 
taining them a day too long at Port Said. Port 
Said is three hours, by steamer, from Ismail, on 
the Suez Canal, through the desert. It was so 
very windy that the air was filled with sand, and 
one could not see over a hundred yards. Dredges 
worked by steam are engaged lifting sand from 
the bottom of the canal by a number of large 
buckets fastened to an endless belt or chain. 
These buckets pass over a large spout, inclining 
downwards from the dredge and reaching a hun- 
dred feet or more from the canal. Into this spout 
the buckets empty their load of sand and water 
and it flows far off on the shore, and thus the 
canal is kept navigable. 

The day we spent at Port Said is never to be 
forgotten. It was the Sabbath. Our steamer was 
appointed to sail that day, but could not load her 



103 



cargo, though she labored hard all day. The 
passengers went in a body to the office and tried 
to force the officers into measures, but all in vain. 
It was late in the afternoon Monday before she 
sailed. We were all shocked at seeing them load 
the boat on Sunday, but protested against having 
to rest ourselves. I remarked to Mr. M., it seems 
as if the Lord meant to make us rest to-day any- 
way, and though we went with the multitude, 
(shall I say to do evil ?) amongst whom were four 
or five clergymen beside, we were glad of the de- 
lay. All sorts of vessels anchor here, and all 
sorts of people, nearly, live here — Arabs of course, 
(the country is full of them,) Germans, English r 
but more French; the Arabs seem to take to the 
French and vice versa, besides the French followed 
De Lesseps, the canal builder, here and remained. 
We enquired for a church, but none could be- 
found. There is a large square, where a band plays 
Sunday afternoon, and thousands are coming and 
going all the time. This is the only place that 
we saw Caucasians and Arabs intermarried. 
There were hundreds of rag-a-muffins parading 
the streets. Little girls from five to ten years of 
age, with dresses that touched the ground, wear- 
ing bustles large as water-buckets, and sporting 
beaux, presented a sight altogether novel to us, 
and extremely ridiculous. Men were dressed in 
female attire, and perhaps females were dressed 
as men. Whites were blacked, and the band and 



104 



soldiers burlesqued by reckless boys, with all 
manner of squeaking instruments, and sticks for 
swords and guns — wearing false, faces, &c. Thus 
the French holiday has crowded out the Christian 
Sabbath of rest and worship, and as a further 
consequence gambling hells and other ruinous in- 
stitutions have taken the places where churches 
should have been built. 

An Arab boy persisted in an eflort to black my 
shoes, against all protestations, though I told him 
he should not, with all possible earnestness and 
emphasis, until seeing escape from him was im- 
possible, I told him I would not pay him. He 
followed, however, occasionally getting a stroke 
at them until he thought them polished sufficient- 
ly to justify a claim for pay. He then began to 
beg ; I sat unconcerned for an hour at least, wish- 
ing to see how long he would hold out. I think 
probably he would have stayed until now had 
not some stranger come up and slapped him over, 
or had I not left my seat. 

But to have any fair estimate of Port Said one 
must see it. On the greatest thoroughfare of the 
world it has caught up many of the worst of 
travellers' habits. It would be a great strategic 
point for a missionary of the right sort. 

The great iron-clads of France, England and 
Turkey, that lie in waiting there continually for 
any safety their commerce may demand, teach us 
that we too, as a church or churches, should occu- 
py and defend interests dearer than all else. 



CHAPTER XII. 



ODDS AND ENDS. 



Footmen. — Canals Made Without a Spade. — Bazaar Day. 
— Dervishes. — Arab Gratitude. — Oppression.— Cab- 
bageing an American. — In Diplomatic Circles. — How 
Donkey Boys " Get There." 

I NOTICED in Cairo two footmen dressed in 
white smock-frocks to the knees, bare-legged, 
with long tasseled caps on their heads and bearing 
long sticks. They trotted about twenty steps in front 
of a carriage, in which an English lady and gen- 
tleman were seated. This is a very cheap way to 
purchase notoriety, as these fellows will hire them- 
selves to run all day for two and a half cents per 
hour, or even less. 

On the way up I noticed the natives cleaning 
out a canal; fully one thousand of them were at 
work. They did not have a spade, a wheel-barrow, 
nor cart, but standing in rows of five, six, seven 
and eight or nine, the first man in the bottom of 
the canal cut out a chunk of mud weighing ten or 
fifteen pounds with his hands, passed it on to the 
second and he to the third up the bank until it 
had got on top where the last man took it and cast 
it as far as he could. Some of them were standing 



106 



two and three feet deep in the mud. Their man- 
ner was about as primitive as that of North Caro- 
linians in working the public roads. 

The clover of Egypt grows about three feet high, 
is very nourishing to all herbiverous animals, and 
is cut with a knife. I did not see a mowing scythe 
in the country. One can sit down and cut as 
much as he can carry without moving. They 
carry camel loads (about six hundred to eight 
hundred pounds) and donkey loads of it to the 
towns every day. One can buy enough of it to 
support a donkey or a horse for from three to five 
cents per day. 

The Arabs have a market day every week; on 
that day every one who has anything to sell, or 
who wishes to buy, will go to the bazaar. If they 
live near the city they pause on the suburbs, as 
there is a tax on everything that passes the city 
boundaries. One often sees as many as a thousand,, 
and half as many donkeys and camels, all seated 
on the ground, (except the donkeys) with all the- 
products of the country and every article imported 
into the country for sale. On market day, only,, 
will you find them there. If they are far from the 
city, they have a meeting place in the country,, 
where they bring herds of camels, horses, donkeys, 
sheep, goats and cattle, and spend the day trading.. 

As priests in the Greek and Catholic churches 
are distinguished by their caps, so also the dif- 
ferent sects of Mohammedans are also. The or- 



107 



dinary Arab wears a red fez with a black tassel in 
the center of the crown. The Dervish wears a grey 
fez with double the altitude of an ordinary red fez r 
and four times the bulk or thiclmess ; in fact it is 
made of the same material as a saddle blanket 
and as thick. 

There are two sects of the Dervishes, the Dancers 
and Howlers. The first whirl around on tip toe, 
singing, and saying, "He is one. He is God," until 
exhausted. 

The Howlers will sit cross-legged on the floor 
and repeat verses of the Koran and whine as they 
read or sing from their book, swaying their bodies 
back and forth. None but the Dancing dervishes 
allow Christians to be present at their hours of 
worship on Friday. But they worshijD anywhere, 
in a railway carriage, on the roadside, on the deck 
of a boat. They generally spread down a hand- 
kerchief or blanket on the ground, get on their 
knees, put their forehead three times on the earth, 
rise and stand, face towards Mecca, fold their 
hands across their breast, kneel and touch their 
forehead the fourth time to the ground, usually 
taking about three minutes to worship. 

A fellow traveler told me a story of an Arab, 
which is true to life. A physician had taken a 
very poor Arab to his house and treated him for 
some disease that promised to prove fatal, but the 
medical man succeeded in making a cure. When 
the doctor told his patient that he was well enough 



108 



to return home, the good mussulman thought that 
the doctor was under lasting obligations for the 
privilege of having had such a subject to practice 
upon, and before leaving told him he thought he 
should bestow some nice backsheesh (present) by 
which to remember the doctor by. "The only gra- 
titude they know is a lively desire for greater 
favors." 

Said Joseph was our guide to the tombs of the 
Kings. He had two wives. We asked him about 
a multiplicity of wives. He said, "Two wives no 
good," when the husband mistreats one wife she 
carries the case to a judge, who calls the rascal to 
account, and extracts pledges of good behavior, 
the punishment of the wife is left to the husband. 

We noticed excavations going on in the temple 
at Luqsor, one which Joseph is supposed to have 
built. The Arabs were reclaiming, under English 
or French engineers, I did not learn which, this 
most wonderful seat of ancient worship. About 
two hundred Arabs were carrying the earth off in 
flag-baskets. Many children were engaged on the 
job. I pointed out one little girl about five years 
old, crouched in a sunk place on the bank of the 
river lying as flat on the ground as possible. Said 
I, " she has hid to keep from work," we stopped 
about where she was concealed; the overseer look- 
ing at us discovered her, called her out, abused 
her, if he did not beat her. She was exhausted 
no doubt, and obeyed the voice of nature within 



109 



her that called for rest. The overseer looked, with 
a flail in hand, like the pictures we have seen of 
the task masters put over the Israelities of old. 
These living wheel-barrows get about two and a 
half cents per day. 

The American Consul at Luqsor is an Arab, 
Morad Ali. His son speaks English very well, 
having been educated at the Mission school there. 
We were invited to dine with him one day, and 
accepted the invitation. We were there to learn. 
Now in every place one visits in the east, there are 
antiquity venders, "Geniwine antique, Howadji!' n 
Now antiques vary in price according to the suc- 
cess the manufacturer has had in making them 
look old, worn and dingy. 

Our Consul had a large store of antiques. And 
dinner over, his son invited us to look at them. 
That was the secret of the invitation to dinner. 
He had a museum indeed, worth a great deal to 
look at. He sold mummies, and mummy cases. 
He had mummy cats thousands of years old, and 
hawks, scarabs worth ten and fifteen pounds ster- 
ling. And whatever you priced, was high, about 
ten times the price of the same articles sold by 
one who had no claims to our patronage. So we 
bought enough to satisfy him that his invitation 
was appreciated and not extended in vain. 

The donkey-boys are equally shrewd, and if 
their patrons are Americans they name their don- 
keys after some famous American, if he is Eng- 



110 



lish, after some English Lord. If French, after 
Napoleon, Boulanger, &c. We have rode on Buf- 
falo Bill, Grant, Abraham, Mahomet and Solomon. 






CHAPTER XIII. 



THE OLDEST SEAPORT. 



Simon the Tanner's House— Expectation on Tiptoe — 
Apprehensions. — Rest. 

STANDING with fifty or sixty other passengers 
on deck of the steamship Venus, of the Aus- 
trian Lloyd Line, on March the 5th, the first gray 
streaks of dawn revealed to us the lowlying country 
-of Philistia to the southeast and the ashy colored 
range of Judean hills stretching away to Mt. Car- 
mel in the north and to Hebron in the south. 
What feelings of mingled joy and thankfulness 
filled each heart in anticipation of what lay be- 
fore us. We were so soon now to make our way 
across those mountains to that city of all earthly 
ones most dear to Jew and Christian, and only 
second in sacredness to the Mussulman. 

I was profoundly grateful that the fond hopes 
of many years were so soon to find full fruition, 
that I should have the privilege of visiting the 
land made sacred by the footsteps of the Son of 
God and some of the places once so dear to 
him ; that my feet should press the soil once trod- 
den by him as he toiled and taught. 



112 



At this season only one-half to three-fourths of 
the vessels that sail for Joppa can stop there. 

The fear we all had of not being able to land, 
was dispelled and increased our pleasure at see- 
ing our ship drop anchor in the oldest and worst 
of seaports — whence Jonah sailed when he had 
such a bad landing, and whither the wood that 
went into Solomon's temple was shipped. We see 
a score of boats manned by gigantic Arabs, hur- 
rying over the tranquil waves to our steamer,, 
anxious to secure passengers. Some of them 
have red flags with the names of H. Gaze & 
Son, Thos. Cook & Son, and Kolla Floyd, in letters 
of white. These have come out for those tourists 
who may be traveling under their auspices. 

Rolla Floyd is a Yankee by birth, but confines 
himself to Palestine, while the names of the other 
two are seen around the world. Both have head- 
quarters in London, and are very necessary to 
those tourists who prefer to pay others for fighting 
their way through Italians, Arabs, Chinese, Japs,, 
et. al., and, ease to the responsibilities incident 
upon travel in strange lands. 

From our ship about one mile from shore, we 
watch the waves rushing in between the classic 
rocks to which mythology says the beautiful 
Andromeda was chained, and rescued by Perseus, 
becoming, afterwards, his bride. They wash the 
shore at the very base of the house of Simon the 
tanner, where Peter lodged and saw the wonderful 



113 



sheet let down from heaven, revealing to his then 
too narrow mind the wideness of God's mercy in 
the Gospel dispensation, which is as the " wide- 
ness of the sea." And had his idea of a preacher's 
mission so marvelously enlarged, on the top of 
which, or one in its place, I, afterward, went 
myself; and in order to be sure of standing where 
Peter did, went all over it. From this housetop 
the " great sea " stretches far away north, west and 
south. Peter's eye swept that horizon many a 
time in meditation, and watched the restless tides 
that beat upon that rocky shore, typifying the 
human hordes that had swept over Judea's hills 
and plains since Noah's day. 

I am in the Holy Land. What revelations*' 
await my journey through it! Sweet were the 
optimistic dreams of her inspired seers. Shall 
the sweet waters of Cherith brook or Siloe's " that 
flowed fast by the oracle of God," or skies of 
marvelous softness, or the hills made sacred by 
the presence and frequent discourses of our Lord 
cause me to experience a kindred enlargement 
and make me still more hopeful of life's strife? 

I am going to " walk about Zion and go round 
about her, mark well her bulwarks, tell the towers 
thereof, that I may return and tell it to the gener- 
ation following." Will I feel as the Psalmist did? 
And if I do not, nor witness the sights so dear to 
him, nor feel the confidence in the supremacy and 
final universal political triumph of Israel, that 



114 



her prophets did, conclude that these leaders in 
happy sanguine hours were only overwhelmed 
with self admiration at their own success and 
dazed by hopes impossible of realization, shall I 
doubt the stability of the Providence that seems 
to have measurably forsaken the chosen race? 

Has fancy woven a webb now to be unravelled? 
Shall the mystic dream that has ever hung over the 
names of Judea, Jerusalem, Hebron, Galilee and 
Nazareth be dispelled? Shall the halo that has 
ever encircled the Holy Land, cutting it off from 
all others vanish into thin air, and leave it to 
be merged into the vast community of countries, 
and so make me loser of the inheritance of all my 
christian life, until I shall regret the knowledge 
that increases my sorrow, and the wealth that is 
worse than poverty? Shall I discover some of 
the "mistakes of Moses?" And see how that after 
all he did not lead the Israelites here ! 

And see how among those people, in those 
places, deception may have been very easy, on 
account of much blindness * the nature of the 
atmosphere, nature and productions of the earth, 
so that facts may have been concealed, and the 
evidence of miracles shall be diminished, if not 
altogether destroyed ! Especially that greatest of 

* Three per cent, of the population are blind, and twenty per 
cent, have injured eyes, because of scarcity of water they seldom, 
if ever, wash. (I never saw a washpan or basin in an Arab bazaar 
while among them) and the same customs are followed to a large 
extent as in the Savior's time, I think. I .judge it was their custom 
not to use much water generally. They also wear turbans or hats 
without brims, and the sun is very hot. No doubt for these reasons 
there was about as much blindress then as now. 



115 

miracles, the resurrection from the dead which 
stands out before the hopes of millions like a 
colossal tower where they can shelter when the 
storms of life beat tempestuously about them, and 
floods of adversity threaten to engulf them — 
whose mighty shade protects them when solstitial 
suns dry up all the flowers that bloom along their 
path and wither all the green branches of earthly 
prospects — a tower pointing heavenward, around 
whose spiral stairs hope ascends, till the din of 
earthly strife dies out below and the child of sor- 
row has all his tears and fears dispelled ? 

But "we shall see what we shall see." I will 
gain what I may from the land as well as from the 
Book, and if not in this mountain, nor yet in Je- 
rusalem the true worshippers worship the Father, 
some dormant sentiment may be awakened, some 
active power intensified. I may learn from the 
lilies of the field; the thorny, stony, rich ground; 
the faithful shepherd, whose flock is ever imper- 
illed* by day and nightt. I will note the barren 
and fruitful fig tree; I will read the words of the 
Book, as nearly as I may where they were spoken, 
and study from all possible standpoints the ways 
of God to man, and from my treasury thus re- 
plenished, bring to my Master's service, as much 
as I may, things new and old. 

*We saw a ooy drive a fox from his flock one day aoout noon He 
ran towards us and turned down the hill and hid under the rocks, 
where "the foxes have holes," in sight of Jerusalem. 
«+ - H- 1 ^ , tlLe flocks ar © Put into pens made of stone, over which 
it is difficult or impossible for foxes and .jackals to climh. Sonie- 
• *ji me s they are put into large caves under the hillsides, and the 
shepherd sleeps m the cave's mouth. 



CHAPTER XIV 



FROM. JOPPA TO JERUSALEM. 



David's Fete miscarries. — Jerusalem. — Excursion to Jeri- 
cho, Dead Sea and Jordan.— Bethlehem, House of 
Bread. — Mt. Calvary, the two Theories. — Dr. Merrill's 
Statement. — Church of the Holy Sepulchre. — Having 
the Form of Godliness, but denying the Power. — 
Episcopalians. — Missions. 

THE road from Joppa to Jerusalem is a per- 
fect road. It passes Ramleh, the home of 
Joseph of Arimathea (?) Bareh or Gideon, the 
Valley of Ajalon, where Joshua commanded the 
sun and moon to stand still until he vanquished 
the Philistines, Ajalon belonged to Dan, Josh. 
19: 42. Abou Josch or Kirjath-jearim, where the 
Ark of God rested 20 years. The name signifies 
city of woods ; it is in a circular cave of the hills, 
somewhat like an amphitheatre. I felt strange 
emotions as I read I Chron. 13: 5: "David gather- 
ed all Israel together from Shihor of Egypt even 
into the entering of Hemath, to bring the ark of 
God from Kirjath-jearim," and Ps. 132: 6, 8: 

"Lo, we heard of it at Ephratah; we found it in 
the fields of the wood. 

We will go into his tabernacles; we will worship 
at his footstool. 



117 



Arise, Lord, into thy rest; thou', and the Ark 
of thy strength." 

What a multitude of people, all rejoicing with 
their king as they move along towards Jerusalem. 

Perhaps the procession was two or three miles 
long. Suddenly they pause at the front. What 
is the matter? A man falls dead. Uzza, ignorant 
of the command of God, showing the sole manner 
of carrying the ark, when he thought to save it 
from falling from the cart, is struck dead for his 
rashness, and unutterable confusion ensues. Da- 
vid is chagrined; everybody disappointed and 
afraid to meddle further, and ignorant of the plain- . 
est direction, they leave the Ark at the home of 
Obed Edom, where it stayed for three months, in 
which time David and the priests read up a little, 
and had better success in moving it. The next 
place of interest is Kalomeh, near which it is 
claimed John the Baptist was born, and below 
which is a Valley in which, tradition says, David 
slew Goliath. In another hour we reach Jerusa- 
lem and stop at the Jerusalem Hotel, about ten 
minutes walk from the Joppa gate and the tower 
of David. 

I have taken, with Mr. Merrill, previously re- 
ferred to, the usual excursions to Jericho, the 
Jordan, Dead Sea, Marsaba, Bethlehem, Hebron, 
etc., and saw. on the route Bethany, Gilgal, Brook 
Cherith, Elisha's Fountain, Mt. of Temptation, 
Mt. Nebo, across the Jordan, brook Kedron, and 



118 



near to Bethlehem, the fields of the shepherds, 
the tomb of Rachel, Well of the star, Plains of 
Rephaim, Valley of Roses, Valley of the Giants 
and will speak of them more particularly further on. 

In Bethlehem on the spot where it is claimed 
and conceded our Lord was born is a Christian 
church, the oldest in the world, in part. A silver 
star marks the place, and this inscription in latin 
is around the star, "Here Jesus Christ was born of 
the virgin Mary," and a marble manger, the place 
where they laid him, is near by. 

Above these, four rows of lamps of silver and 
gold burn night and day, one row for each of the 
four denominations of Christians (Greeks, Catho- 
lics, Copts and Arminians) to which this church 
belongs. They all have chapels in the church, 
and all worship there every Sabbath and occasion- 
ally on week-days. I witnessed a funeral conduct- 
ed by the Coptic Christians. It was one of six 
children that had died with measles that day. 
The little corpse was laid on the cold marble floor. 
The priest and friends were standing in a circle 
around it, performing the last duties due its mor- 
tal remains. 

We went through the chapel of Joseph where it 
is said the angel appeared to Joseph and advised 
him to go into Eg}^pt. 

St. Jerome's chamber is shown here, and he is 
represented with a lion in a stained glass window, 
here he studied and translated the Vulgate. 



119 

In Bethlehem the people are a shade or two 
brighter than we noticed elsewhere, except at 
Nablous, and nearly all of them are Christians. 
They call their town Beitlam, that is city of bread. 
It is well, for the fields seem very fertile, and the 
olive orchards never fail. It is well named further, 
because it gave to the world Him who is the "bread 
of life." 

Spending a few hours here, we proceeded to 
Jeruealem through a heavy shower of the "latter 
rain." We went to the church of the Holy Sep- 
ulchre on Sunday. There is dispute about where 
the true site of Calvary is, and I suppose will ever 
be. Two places lay claims to it. One is a hill 
northeast of the Damascus gate, above a cave call- 
ed Jeremiah's grotto, many scholars accept this as 
the true site. Several assert that they were the 
first to establish the claims of this place, but it is 
called in Jerusalem, Gordon's Theory. The place 
is covered with Mohammedan graves. One's first 
impression when shown this hill is that it answers 
to the description in the Gospels, and being con- 
siderably beyond the city limits and still bare, as 
if providentially left so, the conviction is deepened. 
We append below some facts and suggestions con- 
firmatory of this theory by the Rev. Selah Merrill, 
D.D., LL.D.: 

" It is known that under the Convent of the 
Sisters of Zion, which is near the Castle of Antonia, 
but on the opposite side of "Via Dolorosa," there 



120 



is six or eight feet below the level of the street, 
some remarkably well preserved ancient pavement, 
which hundreds of travellers have visited and ad- 
mired. 

From certain indications we are led to believe 
that this pavement was connected with an ancient 
street that ran in nearly a direct line from Antonia 
northwards to the city wall. 

The most important military route of Palestine 
at the time of Christ was that which connected 
Caesarea-on-the-Sea with Jerusalem, which it ap- 
proached from the north. 

At the point where the line of the street first 
mentioned, supposing such a street to have existed, 
touched the city wall, we find an old gate closed 
at present, but bearing the significant name of 
" Herod's Gate." 

If the line of this street be extended beyond 
this so-called " Herod's Gate," to the northwest, 
we shall find along it definite traces of an old 
Roman road. This we find to be identical with 
the great military road which connected Jerusa- 
lem with Caesarea. 

It is perfectly natural to suppose that the place 
of the public execution of criminals would be 
somewhere on the line of the road. Between the 
castle and the fatal spot, soldiers who guarded the 
criminals could move to and fro unobstructed. 

A little after this road leaves the wall at the 
point marked as "Herod's Gate" we find on the 



121 

left hand a hill remarkable in form, noticeable 
from its position, and with which are connected 
some traditions respecting the execution and burial 
•Of criminals. 

Again, we find the name of St. Stephen con- 
nected with the western slope of this hill ; here is 
the traditional place of his martyrdom ; here a 
■church was erected to his memory, which existed 
for nearly eight hundred years, and of which re- 
mains have been unearthed during five years past. 

It is not unnatural to suppose that St. Stephen 
was executed at the place of the public execution 
of criminals. The theory that our Lord was exe- 
cuted at the same place has the most valid reasons 
in its support. 

There is current among the Jews in Jerusalem a 
tradition that this hill was the place of stoning, 
the " Beth Has-Sekilah " mentioned in the Mishna. 
Likewise another tradition that this hill was the 
place, or was connected with the place, of burial 
of those who had been publicly executed. The 
origin of these traditions I do not know, nor do I 
pretend to estimate the value of them. That they 
exist at all is curious and — I should say — a sig- 
nificant fact, whether they are worth little or much. 

In like manner I do not know the origin of the 
name " Herod's Gate," or why it should not have 
been called "Solomon's Gate" or " David's Gate." 
But the fact that this name is found in this par- 
ticular locality is significant, when taken in con- 



122 



nection with the other circumstances that are- 
grouped around it. 

In recent times or since it has been safe to build 
outside the walls, say within the last twenty years,, 
the principle residences have been erected on the 
west of the city, because the Jaffa road leads off' 
in that direction, At present, however, they are 
being extended also in the northwest quarter; 
but in the time of our Lord private houses or 
villas, surrounded by gardens and hedges, were on 
the north of the town because on that side there 
was not only the great thoroughfare leading to 
Damascus, but also that leadinglto Caesarea, which 
was then the main seaport to Palestine. The 
numerous ancient cisterns, now mostly in ruins, 
that are found in all the open region northwest of 
Jerusalem show that that quarter has been thickly 
inhabited. 

If Joseph of Arimathea, who was a wealthy 
man, had a private garden near the city, we may 
suppose with reason that it was located in this 
direction. The statement in]| John xix. 41, "in 
the place were he was crucified there was a gar- 
den; and in the garden a new tomb, wherein was 
never man yet laid," seems to be very explicit. If 
on the one hand we press these words literally, 
and on the other insist that our Lord was crucified 
in the place of the public execution of criminals, 
we make this place and the garden of Joseph of 
Arimathea to have been identical. The question 



123 



arises whether a man of position and wealth 
would have a private garden in such a place? 
But there is no real objection to supposing that 
the hill-top. which was easily accessible from the 
Roman military road, might have been devoted 
to the purpose of execution, and at the same time 
the ground about it. to the very foot of its slopes, 
to have been occupied by private gardens might 
have surrounded the hill on the southwestern, 
and northwestern sides, and joined the Roman 
road on the north. 

The Roman road which we have described as 
leading to Antonia through or near "Herod's Gate" 

skirted this hill at the foot of its eastern and 

» 

northeastern slopes. Some miles farther north this 
road divided, one branch going north to Nablous 
or Shechem. and the other past Beth Horon to 
Antipatris and Ca>sarea-on-the-sea. Along this 
road Paul, strongly guarded, was taken a prisoner 
to Ca-sarea. With what emotions did the prisoner. 
as he left the city and passed this Golgotha hill, 
look up to the spot where the Master had died 
upon the cross ! 

In the absence oi a suitable diagram I will £>lace 
before the readers a very large capital letter Y.. 
which shall be inverted, and the extremities of 
its arms shall touch the wall of the city at the 
points A and B. 



124 




A will represent the present Damascus Gate, 
and B the one now closed called " Herod's Gate." 
A C D will represent the present Damascus or 
Nablous road, while BOD will represent the old 
Roman military road that led to Csesarea. The 
line DOB extended pretty directly would touch 
the Castle of Antonia. E represents the Golgotha 
hill, in which the Grotto of Jeremiah is shown. 
The bottom of the Y, or D, will be understood to 
be towards the north. 

This figure is not correct, inasmuch as the 
lines B C and A C meet really at a considerable 
short distance from the city wall; but it was 
designed to give only a general idea of the place 
we have been considering, and this purpose it 
serves sufficiently well. 

There is in the western face of this hill a 
large tomb, before the mouth of which the earth, 
during past ages, has accumulated to a depth of 
six or eight feet. It is a peculiar tomb, and has 
suffered somewhat in the lapse of time, but from 
what remains of it one would say that it was 
Christian rather than Jewish in its construction. 
This point I do not attempt to decide absolutely, 



125 



but even if it could be shown to be certainly of 
Christian origin it would only show that the slopes 
of this hill were, at a very early period, thought 
to be desirable as a place of burial, and hence 
we may suppose that, at a still earlier period, 
they were occupied by Jewish tombs. 

Very near this point, still in the western slope 
of this hill, there have been opened during the 
present summer some very remarkable Christian 
tombs, supposed to be those that were built by the 
Empress Eudocia. 

My object in what I have now written was 
merely to group, in a way different from what 
had ever been done before, and likewise in a more 
complete manner, certain facts and suggestions 
which appear to me to be very reasonable in 
connection with this most important question. 
Very few points in the topography of ancient 
Jerusalem can be settled beyond dispute; but 
with reference to the site of Calvary I will close 
by repeating what I have already said, namely, 
that the strong probabilities are in favor of 
regarding the hill above Jeremiah's Grotto as the 
place of the crucifixion of our Lord." 

The discoveries made by Helena, mother of 
Constantine, or said to have been made by her, 
satisfy the Roman Catholics and Greek Catholics, 
the Copts and Armenians, that where the church 
of the Holy Sepulchre is (which is within the 
present city walls and near the centre of the city) 



126 



is the true site. The various stations occupied 
by the friends of the Saviour on the occasion of 
his death, are all marked by a chapel or something 
else. Within the precinct is a stone called the 
Unction Stone; on this spot they claim He was 
laid to be annointed for his burial. Pilgrims from 
Russia and other lands, numbering now about 
2,000, here kneel and kiss this stone, with a dozen 
others in the church, one marking the spot where 
the cross stood, another the spot where He ap- 
peared to Mary Magdalene, another where John 
and Jesus' mother were standing when He said, 
"mother, behold thy son, and son behold thy 
mother." Then there is shown the Holy Sepul- 
chre; millions have kissed the stones of it. It is 
divided into two rooms, an ante-room and the 
sepulchre proper. From the first, one passes 
through a stone wall about four feet thick, through 
an arched door not over three feet high and about 
two feet wide. Inside, the sepulchre is about rive 
by seven feet; one half is devoted to a movable 
couch, on which it is claimed the Lord lay. The 
end farthest from the door is held by a Greek 
priest who will sell you a candle on Sunday or on 
any other day, for one or two metterlichs (2 cents.) 
There is standing and kneeling room by the place 
of the dead for about four. We went there several 
times and always found it crowded. The pil- 
grims will approach it upon their knees, bending 
down every few feet to kiss the floor. The Arch- 



127 

bishop of the Greek church pretends to have a 
candle miraculously lighted from heaven in this 
;ante-room once every year. He enters, closes the 
door, and after awhile thrusts his lighted candle 
"through a hole in the side, from which others light 
theirs, and then light up the sacred places in the - 
church which they hasten to visit, extinguishing 
the candle before it is half consumed, carrying the 
Temnant home to be interred with their bones. 

The holy sepulchre is built entirely of marble, 
and four sets of lamps of gold and silver light it 
up day and night— one for each of the four church- 
es that perform service here. 

To the right of the main entrance and about 

fifteen feet above the floor there is a large rock, 

round about and above which is a chapel, say 

twenty feet square, (I speak from memory.) The 

stone rises about two feet above the floor and is 

perhaps fifteen feet wide. It has three holes in it 

and it is said that in them were placed the cross 

of Christ and of the two ttaeves. To the right of 

the centre one there is a large cleft in the rock. 

This they say was made when the rocks were rent. 

Then one is shown the stock and pillar to which 

the Savior was chained, and the one on which he 

sat, and immediately underneath the cross, Adam's 

grave is shown; for they say it was needful that 

his blood should fall on Adam's head, When this 

tomb was pointed out to Mark Twain, he said he 

"wept, because he was a blood relation." 



128 



The foolish traditions connected with these 
sacred spots, robs them ©f that solemnity that be- 
longs to them, and with the irreconcilable course 
followed by the various religious sects of Christen- 
dom here and now is the greatest hindrance to 
Gospel work amongst these heathen. 

I have seen and know that the worst forms of 
the Christian religion, however, is far superior to 
the best types of Paganism ; but what we wish to 
do is to make them see the same. And these same 
Mohammedans have to stand guard with musket 
and sword, not at the door of the above church, 
but within it. by the tomb of Christ. I was crowd- 
ed from my place one Sabbath to make room for 
Turkish soldiers during worship, almost within 
arm's length of the Sepulcre, and a few years ago,, 
many were killed. Owing to suffocation an effort 
was made to escape from the building, and the 
soldiers mistook the rush for attack upon them, 
and began fighting, so the greatest melee imagin- 
able ensued, and three* or four hundred perished ;: 
most, however, were run over and trampled to 
death. 

The guards are kept because the church is the 
joint property of four denominations, Greeks, 
Catholics, Armenians and Copts, each of which 
wants more than, the rest will allow. There is 
worship here every day. 

The country is full of Roman and Greek con- 
vents, built at a cost of millions, and many mil- 



129 



lions. I have seen 25 or 30 about here, but they 
are dead, not embalmed, not buried, that were 
better, they are putrid cadavers, a stench in pagan 
nostrils. Oh, that we could learn to get money as 
they do for building churches, and sending out 
consecrated laborers into the vineyard and still 
retain the spirit of the truth. 

There is a good Protestant work going on in the 
city and community. I have formed the acquain- 
tance of several native Christians, some Christian 
Hebrews, all protestant, and their type of piety is 
very satisfactory, so far as one can judge on short 
acquaintance. 

The Church of England has a resident bishop T 
and several priests here, an elegant church, a good 
school, a good Bible depository and two olive wood 
factories in which they work Christian Jews. I 
worshipped with them twice, and about twenty- 
five young Jews from twelve to seventeen years 
old made the music, and several grown Jews were 
in the congregation. I conversed with some of 
them and rejoiced to see a devotion to Christianity 
equal to the opposition they had once shown. 

One of the priests whom I met handed me the 
following which I copy to show the character of 
the only Protestant missionary work going on iri 
the Holy City : 



130 



The London Society for Ppomoting Christianity 
Amongst the Jews. 



JERUSALEM MISSION. 

The following are the various means used for 
bringing the Gospel to bear upon the Jews in this . 
City. 

1. Christ Church. 

In the Hebrew Church on Mount Zion there is a 
daily Hebrew Service at seven o'clock in the morn- 
ing. Also a daily English Service at nine o'clock. 

Sunday Services at 10 a. m. and at 7:30 p. m. in 
English. 

German Service at 3:30 p. m. 

With this Church are connected two Clergymen 
and two Lay Agents for carrying on the work among 
the Jews and the English speaking residents. 

2. Schools. 

The Boys' School, near the Church, where 42 
Jewish Boys are boarded and clothed, and where 
a large number of Jerusalem Boys are taught and 
partly fed. 

3. The Jewesses' Institution. 

In this Institution 32 Jewish Girls are boarded 
and clothed, and many day scholars are taught 
and partly fed. In both Schools, Christianity is 
distinctly taught. In connection with this is the 
Workroom where poor Jewesses are provided with 



131 



work, and Christianity is taught. There is also a 
Lady Visitor for seeking out and teaching Jewesses. 

4. The Enquirers' Home. 

Here Jewish Inquirers are provided with shelter 
while their sincerity is tested, as well as their In- 
dustry. 

5. The House of Industry. 

This is a home for young Converts and tested 
Enquirers where they are taught Trades and pro- 
vided with work. They live together under a Su- 
perintendent and Matron that they may learn 
something of Christian Home life. 

6. The Hospital. 

Here the sick Jews are treated for various com- 
plaints ; 26 beds being provided for them. Also 
large numbers of Out-Patients are attended to 
both at the Hospital and in their Homes. 

A Physician and a Surgeon, with Dispensers, 
Nurses and others, form the Staff of the Hospital. 

7. The Book Store. 

Bibles in various languages, and other useful 
books are sold and given away. 

8. The Bookbinding and Printing Shop. 

Here Books may be bound, and printing done ; 
finding teaching and employment for young men. 



132 

9. The Carpenter's Shop. 

For teaching the young men. The olive wood 
articles are specially good. 

10. The Shoemaker's Shop. 
Also used for teaching the young men. 



By such methods and works carried on by vol- 
untary Subscriptions the Society seeks to spread 
the knowledge of the Gospel among that people 
from whom the Church received the truth at the 
first. 

Travellers interested in Christian work are in- 
vited to inspect the various parts of the work car- 
ried on in Jerusalem. 



CHAPTER XV. 



HOW ONE TRAVELS IN PALESTINE. 



Dragoman, Donkey-boy, Routes.— Last look at David's 
City.— Climate.— Soil.— Political situation. 

MANY of our readers would like to know 
how the tour of Palestine is made. There 
are two ways. First, by camping in tents. Sec- 
ond, by staying in hotels, Catholic and Greek 
churches (the priests live in the churches), and 
private dwellings. We chose the second, as being 
both more economical and affording a better op- 
portunity to study the custo ms and character of 
the people now living here. 

We have first made arrangements with Mr. 
Floyd, a contractor, to take us from Jerusalem to 
Beirut. The cost of the trip varies according to 
the size of the party, from six to twelve dollars 
per day, and takes us by Damascus eighteen to 
twenty days, and by Tyre and Sidon twelve days. 

Both routes are the same as far north as Naza- 
reth Cana and Tiberias, where those going by 
Damascus go East of the Jordan, while those go- 
ing up the coast go westward to Mt. Carmel, and 
Haifa. The road passes Bethel Shiloh, Plains of 



134 



Ephraini. Mfs -rinzim and £': 1 Sychar, Jacob's 
Well. Samaria. Jenin on the plain of Esdraelon 
Gideon's Fountain. Gilboa. Shuneni. Xain. Endor. 
Ml Tabor, -~ea of Galilee. Cana. Nazareth, Ml 
~ . rmel A :re or Akka. Ain or Ez-Zib. where Hyr- 
eanus had his ears cut off and Herod's brother 
knocked out his brains against a wall to escape 
lisgrace. Tyre, Sidon. Sarepta and many other 
cities of doubtful identity. I will relate some in- 
cidents of the journey farther on. 

I will now give one day from our itinerary. A 
dragoman, well acquainted with the country, takes 
charge of the party. He informs us the previ- 

> erring at what hour we are to start, and 
promptly calls us at the appointed time. 

ggage ready, while we take breakfast, it is put 
on the mules. Breakfast is bread, butter, eggs, 
and coffee. This done, with pencil, paper and 
notebooks and such protections as we need against 
bad weather, we go out for the day's ride. If the 
donkey boys have not done strapping on the bag- 
gage, it is interesting to watch them fasten half a 
lozen valises, boxes and bundles of different sizes 
and shapes so well balanced on a horse, mule or 
donkey, that it will not fall off all day. up and 
down the mountains, nor gall the beast. I have 
seen a horse fell flat with his load on the smooth 
r.me^ ;: Tyre :-:l~i h:: e±e:: ::ie "_:■:-/. :::_ .::- ::-.:^-:. 
but rise and go right on as if nothing had hap- 
pened. They quarrel a great deal in everything 



135 

they do — these Arabs, they never seem to under-- 
stand each other, so that often in tying a rope or 
fixing a rein, they will talk as if about to fight the 
whole time — (though I believe they seldom do 
fight.) Everything ready we mount our hossee 
for the morning ride 

The first day out from Jerusalem is over a verv 
rough road. We have just turned our backs upon 
the once more growing city, when two gentlemen 
in black waterproofs ride into our path : a glance 
sufiiir- : show they have travelled considerably, 
and only a minute is required to learn they 
Drs. Braneroft. President of Phillips Academv. 
Andover. and Buckley. - ~.i:or of the New York 
Advocate. The former on his second or 
third trip abroad, the latter on his fourth: the 
conversation turns from one pleasant topic to an- 
other. I learned from Dr. B. of the sad news : : 
Bishop McTyeke's death. 

We go North-west by the tombs of the Kings 
and the hill Scopus : about one and a half miles 
out the dragoman says. turn vour horses now and 
look at Jerusalem for the last time. We turn and 
look : within the walls . the : ity s E e ms to be von Tig ; 
without, she appears to be but the work nives- 
tercl: 

As we take this last look we remember the 
Salem peace) of Melchizedek, the Jebus. strong 
hold of the Jebusites. and how David same and 
took it for Israel, and ho v. iisobedient Israel had 



136 



to surrender it to Shishak of Egypt, and how this 
was but the beginning of a long list of sorrows 
whose anticipations well-nigh broke the hearts of 
Jeremiah and Zion's Prophet, Priest and King, 
and whose realizations were but the fulfillment of 
the words of Moses, Deut. 28th, and of many of 
his successors, especially of the man like unto 
him whom the Lord God should raise up unto 
Israel. We think of Titus' hosts encamped just 
here to the left on Scopus, of that final shock 
when all was lost, even to the holy temple itself, 
of the brave and the wise Josephus, cool in the 
hour when 

" Death rides upon the sulphury siroc, 

Red battle stamps his foot and nations feel the shock." 

And not only nations, but the world itself. Poor, 
fanatical, ritualistic, starving Jews, your house 
now desolate, is not even left you — vainly hoping 
to the very end for a Savior, the Messias, had he 
returned indeed, it would have been to be again 
rejected. 

Just over the city walls rises the magnificent 
dome of the mosque of Omor on the site of Solom- 
on's Temple, to the left, the Mosque El Aksa, be- 
yond, the tomb of David on Mt. Zion, to the right 
the Tower of David, the splendid church of the 
Holy Sepulchre, and to the right of the walled 
part the Russian Hospice worth hundreds of 
thousands of dollars. To the left and visible 



137 



enough is Mt. Scopus and Mt. Olivet, at whose 
base is Gethsemane, beyond is Siloam, beneath 
which " flows Siloe's brook, fast by the oracle of 
God." Just over the Eastern wall is the "hill of 
Evil Counsel." The minarets, domes, towers and 
cathedrals all are photographed indelibly on 
memory's page ; with a deep sigh all bid the City 
of David farewell. What a history she has 
known ! What a future awaits her, who can tell ! 
We turn our horses' heads towards the North, 
grateful for that mercy that has brought us here 
and so greatly increased life's richness. We soon 
reach Shafat, called Nob, where David fled and 
fed in trouble. 1. Sam. 21. Tradition says this is 
the birth place of the prophet Joel. Nothing now 
remains except ruins, with a few poor houses, and 
it stands about one hundred yards from the road. 
We next and soon come to Ramah, the home of 
that Levite who was so unfortunate at Gibeah of 
Saul, Judges 19. Saul's seven sons were hanged 
near here at Gibeah. Jer. 31 : 15, also immortalizes 
this place, though now not one Jew lives here, but 
only a few wretched Arabs. Over very stony (old 
ruined Roman) roads about 11 o'clock we pass on 
our right Beeroth, where it is claimed Joseph and 
Mary turned back to look for Jesus, when lost at 
12 years of age. The day has become exceedingly 
cold and windy. We have reached Bethel by 12 
M., and ride down into an old reservoir and eat on 
the ground, pic-nic fashion, behind the wall of the 



138 



reservoir. While the dragoman and cook arrange 
for lunch we read up the history of Bethel and find 
that this is where Abram built an altar to God,, 
that here Jacob took some of these stones, possibly 
the one I sit on was one of them, to make a pillow 
to rest on as he fled from Beersheba to Padanaram^ 
and had that wonderful dream, seeming to see the 
angels of God ascending and descending on a lad- 
der, and though the ancients called it Luz, it has 
been called Bethel ever since. Here in after years 
he built an altar and called it u El-Bethel, because 
there God appeared unto him, when he fled from 
the face of his brother." Here he vowed. Here 
Rebekah's nurse died and was buried. Near here 
the two she-bears slew forty and two children for 
mocking Elisha the prophet of God. Here Jero- 
boam set up a golden calf and sought to turn away 
the people from God; and on one occasion, here,, 
stretching out his hand to smite God's prophet, it 
was withered, and restored again in answer to the 
prophet's prayer. Just across a ravine and in full 
view is Ai, which has a history following Jericho's 
overthrow. Josh. 7. 

Lunch over, we mount our steeds and make to- 
wards Jifna, where we are to lodge for the night. 

We pass no places, these two hours now recog- 
nized as connected with sacred history, though no 
doubt could these stones speak they would rehearse 
sad stories of blood and tears. We pass on the 
way steep hills terraced to the top, and estimating 



139 

the time and labor required to do the work of ter- 
racing according to American standards of valua- 
tion much of this land costs two thousand dollars 
per acre, and fifty to one hundred dollars per acre 
annually to keep it in repairs. But humanity is 
very cheap here, and time is not money, as with us. 

There is a great variety of climate here, not 
much in soil. The Jordan valley and along the 
coast of the Mediterranian is very warm now ; the 
hills are temperate and pleasant while the moun- 
tain tops are colder, and Lebanon and Hermon 
covered with snow. Nearly all the soil is red, 
some spots of grey land are seen, and a few belts of 
black ground in Galilee, but all is productive to 
an amazing degree. Some of the hills and moun- 
tains seem at a little distance to be destitute of 
any soil, and to be only made of rocks, yet here 
the herds of sheep and goats find pasturage. There 
is no more beautiful land perhaps anywhere than 
the plains of Jezreel and all the panorama seen on 
all the sides of Mt. Tabor, from the top, and all 
the country from Mt. Tabor to the sea of Galilee 
is excellent for farming and not very hilly. 

But turning from the agricultural to the political 
condition of this country I have observed that it 
is, if not fully ripe, nearly so for a change, if I may 
not say revolution. One typical American to 
every one hundred inhabitants here would bring 
about a revolution in, I think I may say, five 
years at the farthest, but it is coming any way, 



140 



only Muslimism stays it, but the claims of hum- 
anity are asserting themselves steadily. The Eng- 
lish, French, Germans and Russians are all fully 
apprised of the coming smash, and each fully 
awake to a sense of the possible gain it may result 
into each. Each watches all the rest with Argus- 
like vigilance; each is putting as many men in 
position in every salient point as possible. 

At Beirut there is a post office for the English, 
one for the Austrians, one for the French, etc., and 
enough men of these three nations, i. e., of either 
of them, to do the most important civil service of 
Syria, which they expect to do some of these days. 



CHAPTER XVI. 



DEAD SEA, MARS ABA, HEBRON. 



From. Jerusalem down to Jericho, Elisha's Rendezvous, 
Herod the Great's Headquarters. — Elisha's Fountain. 
Gilgal. — As Bedawins Do. — Jordan, — Dead Sea. — 
Climatic Extremes. — Flora. — St. Saba, Miraculous 
Palm Tree, Lazy Priests. — A Room full of Skulls. — 
Jerusalem to Hebron, Solomon's Pools, Hebron's 
Fountains, Abraham's Grave. — Jacob's Funeral.-^- 
Abraham's Oak. 



I 



WILL now copy a chapter from my Diary. 



Wednesday Evening, March 6th. 
Rev. C. D. Merrill, a Presbyterian minister of Cali- 
fornia, with whom I had traveled through Egypt, 
and myself contracted with Isa (Esau) Lobat to take 
us to Jericho, Jordan, the Dead Sea, Marsaba and 
Bethlehem, returning to Jerusalem the third day, 
for one hundred and fifty francs, about thirty dol- 
lars. We set out after 12 o'clock lunch the next 
day. A good donkey and donkey boy carried pro- 
visions, and a guard with a belt full of cartridges and 
a fine breechloading rifle represented the Ottoman 
empire protecting her guests. We had good horses 
shod with an oval piece of sheet-iron, without heels 
or toes, but so shaped as to present to the road a 
convex surface ; four very large nails on each side 
held them on; thus all their horses are shod. 



142 



We go out of Jerusalem on the north side, and 
under the hill now supposed to be the hill calvary, 
by the place where tradition says Stephen was 
stoned, cross the Valley of Jehoshaphat, pass the 
garden of Gethsemane and near to Absalom's pil- 
lar (tomb) up the south side of Olivet, through 
the Jewish cemetery, where one could walk over 
ten or twenty acres on tombs without touching the 
ground, over the spot where Jesus wept over the 
city, by two large stone columns supposed to be 
the remnant of the house of Simon the Leper, 
flien to Bethany on the east side of the hill, where 
a little house built of limestone is shown as the 
house of Mary and Martha, now kept for backsheesh. 
We came in an hour to the Apostles' fountain, and 
in two hours to an inn or khan, where it is claimed 
the good Samaritan deposited the unfortunate trav- 
eler and two pence for his support. We are going 
down to Jericho over the remains of the old Roman 
road over which, no doubt, Herod once could ride 
in a chariot, though it does not look as if it were ever 
good enough for that. We meet "robbers" (?) every 
mile or so. About the middle of the afternoon we 
reach the ravine that contains the brook Cherith 
where Elisha lived in troublous times ; the sides of 
the gorge often show perpendicular faces many 
hundred feet high. Isa said the Greeks had built 
a church on the supposed site of Elisha's repose. 
We reined up our horses and could hear the brook 
leaping over cataracts, going down to Jericho too. 



• 



143 

Herod the Great conducted this stream through an 
aqueduct to the imperial city of Jericho. Portions 
■of this aqueduct still remain, though Jericho abides 
under the curse of Joshua till to-day; not a house 
Temains. About sunset, having descended nearly 
four thousand feet since noon, we crossed Cherith, 
paused and drank of its sweet, limpid waters, rode 
two miles farther to Elisha's Fountain, whose wa- 
ters, bitter no more, are very warm, say 80° Fah. 
We went about a mile farther through the very 
fragrant shrubbery that grows on the banks of the 
stream from Elisha's Fountain, and rest at the 
Russian Hospice on the site of ancient Gilgal. We 
retire amid the howls of jackals and the miserable 

.music and dancing of the Bedawins who 

i 
" Vex with mirth the drowsy ear of night." 

to the delight of a party of Cook's tourists, nearby. 
We rise early next morning, ride across the plain 
to Jordan by the same way, perhaps, the spies 
went when Rahab sent them off, to the place where 
Jesus was baptized possibly. Multitudes of pil- 
grims come here every year to be baptized, and it 
is a harmless sentiment. 

The Jordan was muddy, rapid, deep and about 
two hundred feet wide. We cut some pipe stems 
and canes and proceed to the Dead Sea. I did not 
notice anything specially differing from other lakes 
of water, except its very bitter saltness, almost as 
strong to the taste as lye. Some parties went bath- 



144 



ing in it, but we did not as it leaves a gum upon 
one's cuticle, which is very unpleasant, unless one 
bathes afterwards in fresh water, which we did not 
have. We had provided bottles and filled them 
with water here. 

The great depression of this section (1292 feet 
below the Mediterranean sea) made it so warm that 
we had to take off our coats, but the same after- 
noon, having left the valley, we were in a hail and 
rain storm up in the mountains, that gave us se- 
vere colds. 

All the face of the country is covered with 
beautiful flowers in the greatest variety. I am not 
botanist enough to name them, but I enjoyed 
their fragrance and beauty no less on that account. 
Thousands of bees carry off to the rocks thai 
crown every hill the nectar from their cups, and 
herds of cows, sheep and goats browse through 
them to their hearts' content. It is still a land 
flowing with milk and honey. 

A caravan of sixty donkeys laden with about 
four or five bushels of wheat, each, and about 
twenty drivers, passed us going to Betlehem to 
market. These patient little animals never stum- 
ble, even on the most rugged hill-side in the most 
tortuous path, even with a burden as heavy as his- 
own weight upon his back. The "latter rain" was 
falling, and our guide said that the rain that day 
would depress the price of wheat half a franc, or 
ten cents, for, said he, "this rain will about insure 



145 



a good crop." We spent the night in the Church 
of St. Saba. It is in the fastnesses of the rocks 
on one side of a gorge (Kedron) several hundred 
feet deep. St. Saba is said to have lived in a 
cave, which is shown here, with a lion, the austere 
life of an old time monk. His friends and fol- 
lowers continued to build around the little nu- 
cleus until at last a most wonderful structure, 
built of hewn stones and polished stones stands 
there to shelter a score of lazy, greasy Greek 
Priests, who live on bread and olives alone. No 
woman is ever supposed to pass within the gates. 

One of the tenants showed us about the laby- 
rinth. There is a chapel built and dedicated to> 
St. Nicholas, one to St. Saba and St. John and the^ 
Virgin Mary. In the court-yard is St. Saba's 
tomb. They showed us, also, a room full of 
skulls — hundreds of human skulls — which they 
say were slain by the Persian King when he 
stormed and took this stronghold. 

They show, growing by the walls, a palm tree 
that has miraculous powor in certain cases, they 
say. We bought beads, canes and porcupine 
quills of them and departed to Betlehem, about 
which I have written elsewhere. 

Monday, March 11, Mr. M., Mrs. Davidson, the 
widow of a Presbyterian minister, another lady, 
her companion, and myself, went up to Hebron, 
eighteen or twenty miles south of Jerusalem, 
passing Solomon's pools thirteen miles out from 



146 

-Jerusalem. One of these is 582 feet long, 210 
feet wide and 50 feet deep; the other two are a 
little smaller. These supply the city with water 
through aqueducts made of stone and mortar. 

By noon we reached Hebron. Here we saw 
grape vines doubtless similar to those* that flour- 
ished in the days of Caleb and Joshua. Hebron, 
one of the oldest cities on earth, ranking with Da- 
mascus in antiquity, is blessed with splendid 
fountains. We had come up to look at the parcel 
of ground that Abraham bought of the sons of 
Heth "for a possession of a burying-place." 

This place is as sacred to the Mahometans 
as to Christians — in fact they claim to be the true 
children of Abraham — our title being only second. 
So sacred is the place that they do not venture to 
disturb the repose of these distinguished sleepers. 
Nothing short of a mandatory order from the 
Sultan can turn the key that conceals from com- 
mon mortals this most .revered crypt. We were 
shown a hole in the wall into which they told us 
we could thrust our hands and touch the stone 
under which lie the ashes of heroes who led the 
race, who made the Bible, largely ; who, without 
precedents, exemplars or formulae, gave rules for 
mankind in the mere records of their experiences. 
Not being allowed to do more than walk around 
the walls protecting these men and women, we 
take our Bible and read Gen. 23 and Gen. 50. 
We tried to imagine the mighty hosts that came 



o 



147 



up from Egypt with the corpse of Jacob embalm- 
ed. Great man in life, "Prince of God" — worthy 
of the blood that flows in thy veins, and no less 
great in death! Sleep on— who knows but thy 
embalmed body may yet be found and attest anew 
the records dear to us as life itself. 

We went up the valley from Hebron about a 
mile to see a very old oak called "Abraham's 
Oak." It is in the plains of Manire and the only 
oak about there, and if an oak can live four thous- 
and years, may be this is the one under which 
Abraham sat when the angels passed down to 
destroy Sodom. If the seqitaia gigantea in the 
Mariposa Grove are five thousand yerirs old, as is 
claimed, may be this oak is four thousand, and 
may be I sat where Abraham did. We bought 
some of the acorns that grew on it, any way, re- 
paired to our carriage and returned to Jerusalem. 



CHAPTER XVII. 



IN AND ABOUT JERUSALEM. 



Holy Sepulchre again,— Mt. Zion. — The Upper Eoom. — 
House of Caiaphas.— Jews' Wailing Place. — Character 
of the Wall there. — Cyclopean. — What their Wailing 
is. — Jewish Sabbath. 

A day in Jerusalem. 

March 12. We went first to the Holy Sepulchre 
already spoken of above, see two tombs near by the 
Holy Sepulchre, one of them is called the tomb of 
Nicodemus, the other that of Joseph of Arimathea. 
There is a chapel in a cave in the church, in this 
the Catholics say Helena found the cross on which 
our Lord was crucified, and so knew this to be the 
true Calvary ; the other theory has been given al- 
ready. 

On Mt. Zion we visited the Armenian cathedral, 
where St. James was beheaded, containing his 
tomb. The priest showed us about the splendid 
pile very graciously, and sprinkled rose water over 
us when we departed. 

We passed out of the city through Zion's gate, to 
a mosque containing David's tomb, and the so- 
called coenaculum or upper room where Jesus took 
the last supper with his disciples. The upper room 
is on the first floor about eight feet above ground. 



149 



Near by is the house of Caiaphas and a stone pillar 
on which it is claimed the cock sat that crowed as 
the Lord predicted. Here the stone that was rolled 
away from the sepulchre by an angel is shown in 
an Armenian chapel. We pass hence through the 
Armenian and English cemeteries. From this 
point we have very fine views of the pools of Gihon 
on the southwest of Hinnom and Hill of Evil 
Council on the south. 

In the afternoon we go to Mt. Moriah. There 
were several of us, and they required twenty francs 
admission fees. Only within the last few years 
could Christians enter here at all, and Jews are 
forbidden still. Once inside of the walls the Jews 
had a limit, where Gentiles had to pause on pain 
of death, now they are forbidden to pass the 
threshold leading to the grounds; so every Friday 
they repair to the outside and weep over their glory 
departed. We saw many of them the day we 
visited the "Wailing Place," and a sadder sight we 
have seldom if ever seen, we could not refrain 
from tears as they read the old Testament books, 
and mourned responsively. 

We copy the following account of the Wailing 
Place, and the sad history connected with it as 
well as the habits of the Jews who visit it now 
from By-paths of Bible Knowledge, No. Ill, by Rev. 
James King, A. M.: 



150 



THE WAILING PLACE. 



Proceeding northwards of Barclay's Gate, we 
come to an interesting section of the wall known 
as The Jews' Wailing Place, where the Jews as- 
semble every Friday afternoon. It is a small 
quadrangular aiea, roughly paved with large square 
stones, situated between low houses and the Sanctu- 
ary wall. It is further hemmed in by walls on the 
north and south sides, and the area itself is only 
of small dimensions, being about a hundred feet 
in length and fifteen in breadth. The Temple wall 
above ground at this spot is about sixty feet high, 
and the lower courses of visible masonry are for 
the most part made up of magnificent stones, 
venerable from their high antiquity, and from the 
fact that they are veritable remains of the old 
Jewish Temple. For many generations, at least 
once a week the Jews have been permitted to ap- 
proach the precincts of their Temple, and it is a 
touching sight to see them manifest affection to 
the venerable wall, while they kiss the very stones 
and bathe them with their tears. 

The Psalmist's words were verily fulfilled : 'Thy 
servants take pleasure in her stones, and favour 
the dust thereof.' Kneeling before the vestiges of 
their desolate and dishonoured sanctuary, the 
Jews still raise the wail of lamentation : i God, 
the heathen are come into Thine inheritance, Thy 
holy Temple have the} T defiled, they have laid 



151 

Jerusalem on heaps. . . . We are become a 
reproach to our neighbours, a scorn and derision 
to them that are round about us. How long, 
Lord ? Wilt Thou be angry forever ? Shall Thy 
jealousy burn like fire?' 

The nine courses rising from the present ground 
are made up of large blocks, and above are fifteen 
courses of small stones plainly dressed. The four 
lowest courses have marginal drafts about half an 
inch deep and from two to four inches wide, andi 
the faces of the stones are finely polished. Some 
of the blocks are of great size, one stone at the- 
south end is thirteen feet, while most of them 
have been dressed with great skill. The wall pre- 
sents a solid face of masonry, and rises without 
doors or windows from the pavement to the domes- 
and cypresses on the summit, a height of about 
sixty feet. ,Near the south end of the area may 
be seen some holes pierced through the Sanctuary 
wall, which seem to indicate that at some previous 
age vaulted chambers have been built against the 
Haram. 

The masonry, as we have indicated, is highly 
finished, and the drafted blocks are regarded as a 
standard of comparison for other sections of the 
wall. Moreover, it is generally admitted by au- 
thorities that the large stones are of Solomon's 
date ; but Sir Charles Wilson, while acknowledg- 
ing this, thinks that as the blocks are of very un- 
equal quality, and as they are fitted together in a 



152 



somewhat careless way, the wall is a reconstruction 
of old material. Much light and interest are 
thrown upon this question by an examination of 
the adjoining masonry, especially of that beneath 
the surface, and long buried out of sight and amid 
the rubbish of the city. At the southern end of 
the area is a low' modern wall, about a hundred 
yards north of the south-west corner. By climb- 
ing over the wall, the explorer will find on the 
other side a small court, from which can be seen a 
stone of colossal dimensions in the Haram wall, 
about ten feet above the present surface. It has 
formed the lintel of an old gateway, and measures 
twenty-four feet in length and seven feet in height m 
Twenty feet of this gateway are buried among debris, 
and recent excavations show that from the sill to 
the lintel Barclay's Gate, from Dr. Barclay, who 
discovered it in 1852 ; but the natives also called 
it Bab al Mahomet, the Prophet's Gate, and Bab 
Magharibe, the Moor's Gate. It has formed the 
entrance to a passage eighteen feet wide, which by 
a gradual ascent led to the surface of the Haram 
Area, and the gateway is probably one of the four 
which Josephus mentions as existing in the west 
wall of the Temple enclosure. The subterranean 
passage corresponds to the passages leading up 
through the Double Gate and Triple Gate to the 
precincts of the Sanctuary. 

Outside Barclay's Gate, and close to the south 
end of the Wailing Place, Sir Charles Warren sank 



153 



a shaft, and had to dig through rubbish to the 
enormous depth of about eighty feet below the 
colossal lintel, before he came to the foundation of 
the Haram wall. Beneath the surface are twenty- 
two courses of excellent masonry, each course be- 
ing from three to four feet in height. The lowest 
course is let into the rock, and each course is set 
back about half an inch as it rises. The drafting 
of the stones is very finely executed, and for deli- 
cate finish will compare favourably with drafted 
masonry in any other part of the Temple enclosure. 
The courses and dressing exactly correspond to 
those at the Wailing Place, but the masonry is in a 
much better state of preservation, and there can 
be no doubt that this magnificent underground 
wall is ancient Jewish work, probably of the age 
of Solomon. North of the Wailing Place the 
Haram wall is hidden behind moden houses ; but 
Barclay, Wilson, and Warren, who have examined 
the buried stones, think that there is as much 
ancient Jewish work in the west wall as in any 
other part of the Temple Hill. The character of 
the rubbish through which the shaft passed tends 
to establish the high antiquity of the masonry. 
The first twenty- three feet of rubbish under the 
surface consist of earth and pretty large fragment s 
of stone, some of the latter being a foot in diame- 
ter; then comes a drain constructed of masonry, 
about three feet wide and six feet high, sufficiently 
large for a man to stand upright in it. This drain 



154 



is continued southwards along the wall as far as 
the south-west corner. Under the drain is a re- 
taining wall, abutting on the Haram masonry,, 
and designed to act as a buttress. The lower part 
of the shaft below the drain was for thirty feet 
dug through rubbish made up of earth and small 
stone chippings, which when tapped flowed into 
the shaft like running water. 

It is well known that in the time of the Macca- 
bees the fortress of Acra was cut down, and so 
great was the undertaking that the work of demoli- 
tion continued for three years. Josephus' own 
words are : ' The other hill, which was called 
Acra, and sustains the Lower City, is of the shape 
of a moon when she is horned. However in these 
times when the Asmoneans reigned, tjiey filled up 
that valley with earth, and had a mind to join the 
city to the Temple. They then took off part of 
the height of Acra, and reduced it to be of less 
elevation than it was before, that the Temple might 
be superior to it. Now the Valley of the Cheese- 
mongers, as it was called, and was that which we- 
told you before distinguished the hill of the Upper 
City from that of the Lower, extending as far as- 
Siloam, for that is the name of a fountain which 
hath sweet water in it, and this in great quantity 
also.' 

Probably the stone chippings passed through in 
sinking the shaft were thrown into the Tyropoeon 
by the Maccabees when they cut down Acra, and 



155 



thus partially filled up the valley separating 
Mount Zion from the Temple Hill. The gigantic 
wall goes down to the rock, which at the founda- 
tion course slopes toward the west, and before the 
valley was filled up by the Maccabees, the Temple 
walls here must have been exposed to view from 
the rock upwards. From the foundation to the 
outer floor of the Haram Court is eighty-four feet, 
and surmounting this in ancient days would be 
the cloister wall of Solomon, probably about fifty 
feet high, so that this section of the wall would 
originally present to view a stupendous mass of 
masonry scarcely to be surpassed by any mural 
masonry in the world. 

During a recent visit to Jerusalem, after an exa- 
mination of this part of the wall, the author took 
up his position at the south end of the paved area, 
and watched the appearance and movements of 
the increasing crowd. Nearest to him stood a row 
of women clad in robes of spotless white. Their 
eyes were bedimmed with weeping, and tears 
streamed down their cheeks as they sobbed aloud 
with irrepressible emotion. Next to the women 
stood a group of Pharisees — Jews from Poland and 
Germany. These are known by the name of Ash- 
kenazim, because they came from Ashkenaz — the 
name given to Germany by the Rabbins. For the 
most part the Ashkenazim are small in statute 
and fragile in form ; but their supercilious looks 
indicate the same self-sufficient pride that char- 



156 



acterisecl the Pharisees of old. The old hoary- 
headed men generally wore velvet caps edged with 
fur, long love-locks or ringlets were dangling on 
their thin cheeks, and their outer robes presented 
a striking contrast of gaudy colours. 

Beyond stood a group of Spanish Jews, of more 
polished appearance and dignified bearing. They 
are called Sephardim, because, according to the 
Rabbins, Spain is Sepharad. Besides these, there 
are Jews from almost every quarter of the world, 
who had wandered to Jerusalem that they might 
die in the city of their fathers, and be buried in 
the Valley of Jehoshaphat under the shadow of 
the Temple Hill. The worshippers gradually in- 
creased in number until the crowd thronging the 
pavement could not be fewer than two hundred. 
It was an affecting scene to notice their earnest- 
ness; some thrust their hands between the joints 
of the stones, and pushed into the crevices, ae f&r 
as possible, little slips of paper on which were 
written, in the Hebrew tongue, short petitions 
addressed to Jehovah. Some even prayed with 
their mouths thrust into gaps, where the weath- 
er-beaten stones were worn away at the joints # 
The explanation given of this strange proceeding 
is that it arises from a desire on the part of the 
worshippers that their prayers may rise from holy 
ground, and, ascending like the morning and 
evening incense, may, through the sacred wall 
rise to the God of Abraham. 



157 



The congregation at the Wailing Place is one of 
the most solemn gatherings left to the Jewish 
Church, and, as the writer gazed at the motley con- 
course, he experienced a feeling of sorrow that the 
remnants of the chosen race should be heartlessly 
thrust outside the sad enclosure of their father's 
holy Temple by men of alien race and an alien 
creed. Many of the elders, seated on the ground 
with their backs against the wall on the west side 
of the area, and with their faces turned towards 
the Eternal House, read out of their well-thumbed 
Hebrew book passages from the prophetic writings, 
such as 'Be not wroth very sore, Lord, neither 
remember iniquity for ever; behold, see, we be- 
seech Thee, we are all Thy people. Thy holy 
cities are a wilderness, Zion is a wilderness, Jeru- 
salem a desolation. Our holy and our beautiful 
house, where our fathers praised Thee, is burned 
up with fire, and all our pleasant things are laid 
waste. Wilt Thou refrain Thyself for these things, 
OLord? Wilt Thou hold Thy peace, and afflict 
us very sore?' 

About four o'clock a Rabbi stood up, facing the 
Sanctuary wall, and, resting his book against the 
stone, read aloud from the Jewish lamentation 
service a kind of litany. After each petition the 
assembly responded in a peculiar buzzing tone, 
rocking their bodies to and fro, after the manner 
of their fathers. The following litany of eight 
petitions is often rehearsed: — 



158 

The Rabbin reads aloud— 
For the place that lies desolate : 
For the place that is destroyed : 
For the walls that are, overthrown : 
For our majesty that is departed : 
For our great men who lie dead : 
For the precious stones that are buried : 
For the priests who have stumbled : 
For our kings who have despised Him : 



All the people respond — 
We sit in solitude and mourn. 
We sit in solitude and mourn. 
We sit in solitude and mourn. 
We sit in solitude and mourn, 
We sit in solitude and mourn. 
We sit in solitude and mourn. 
We sit in solitude and mourn. 
We sit in solitude and mourn. 



Another litany, written after the manner of an 
antiphonal psalm, is often repeated. It consists 
of five petitions, offered up on behalf of Zion ; and, 
in response to each petition, the assemby offer up 
a petition for Jerusalem : — 



The Rabbin prays thus .- 
We pray Thee have mercy on Zion ; 
Haste ! haste ! Redeemer of Zion : 
May beauty and majesty surround 

Zion : 
May the kingdom soon return to 

Zion : 
May peace and joy abide with Zion : 



The people answer — 
Gather the children of Jerusalem. 
Speak to the heart of Jerusalem. 
Ah ! turn Thyself mercifully to 

Jeruselem. 
Comfort those who mourn over 

Jerusalem. 
And the Branch of Jesse spring up 
at Jerusalem. 



The following is an account of a visit to the 
Wailing Place by Dr. Frankl, a Jew, who visited 
the Holy City : — 

' The Jews have a firman from the Sultan, which, 
in return for a small tax, ensures them the right 
of enterance to the Wailing Place for all time to 
come. The road conducted us to several streets, 
till, entering a narrow crooked lane, we reached 
the wall, which has been often described. There 
can be no doubt but the lower part of it is a real 



159 



memorial of the days of Solomon, which, in 
the language of Flavius Josephus, is immovable 
for all time. Its cyclopic proportions produce the 
•conviction that it will last as long as the strong 
places of the earth. Before we t reached the wall 
we heard a sort of howling melody — a passionate 
shrieking — a heart-rending wailing, like a chorus, 
from which the words came sounding forth, "How 
long yet, God?" Several hundred of Jews, in 
Turkish and Polish costumes, were assembled, and, 
with their faces turned towards the wall, were 
bending and bowing as they offered up the even- 
ing prayer. He who led their devotions was a 
.young man in a Polish talar who seemed to be 
worn out with passion and disease. The words 
were those of the well-known Mincha prayer but 
drawled, torn, shrieked, and mumbled in such a 
way that the piercing sound resembled rather the 
raging frenzy, of chained madmen, or the roaring 
•of a cataract, than the worship of rational beings. 
At a considerable distance from the men stood 
about a hundred women, all in long white robes, 
the folds of which covered the head and the whole 
figure, like white doves, which, weary of flight, had 
perched upon the ruins. When it was their turn 
to offer up the usual passages of the prayer, they 
joined the men's tumultuous chorus, and raised 
their arms aloft', with their white robes looking like 
wings with which they were about to soar aloft 
into the open sky ; and then they struck their fore- 



160 



heads on the square stones of the wall of the Tem- 
ple. Meanwhile, if the leader of their prayers grew 
weary, and leaned his head against the wall in 
silent tears, for a moment there was a death-like 
silence. I happened to be near him, and I could 
mark the sincerity of his agitated soul. He gave 
a rapid glance at me, and, without stopping short 
in his prayer, said to me, " Mokam Kodesh," i.e., 
"Holy place," and pointed to my covered feet. 
My guide had forgotten to inform me that I must 
take off my shoes. I now did so, and was drawn 
into the vortex of raging sorrow and lamentation.' 
The Jewish Sabbath begins on Friday evening 
at sunset; therefore, when the sun is sinking low 
in the western sky, the worshippers at the Wailing 
Place sometimes chant in Hebrew a plaintive 
hymn, known as the Wailing Song. The melody 
is thought to date from the time of Ezra, and, con- 
sequently, is accounted to be amongst the oldest 
pieces of music extant. The following is a trans- 
lation oi the hymn : — 

He is great, He is good. 
He'll build His Temple speedily. 
In great haste, in great haste, 
In our own day speedily. 
Lord, build, Lord, build, 
Build Thy Temple speedily. 

He will save, He will save, 
He'll save His Israel speedily. 
At this time now, O Lord, 
In our own day speedily. 
Lord, save, Lord, save, 
Save Thine Israel speedily. 



. 161 

Lord, bring back, Lord bring back, 

Bring ba"ck Thy people speedily ; 

O restore to their land, 

To their Salem speedily. 

Bring back to Thee, bring back to Thee, 

To their Saviour, speedily. 

How long the Jews have assembled for lamenta- 
tion at the Wailing Place cannot be determined 
with certainty, although there is historical evidence 
to prove that they have assembled to mourn over 
their lost glory and desolate Temple since the time 
of the Apostles. After the merciless destruction 
of Jerusalem by Titus in 70 A. D., the priestly 
families fled to Tiberias, on the shores of the sea 
of Galilee ; and the great men of the Jewish na- 
tion found homes in Egypt, Cyprus, and other 
places, while only the poor and the officiating 
priests remained in the Holy City. Slowly Jeru- 
salem rose from her ashes, and for sixty years en- 
joyed such peace as comes after the maddening din 
of warfare. 

During that period the Jews bewailed their down- 
fall, and nobody interfered with the poor inhabi- 
tants of the city. At length, after sixty years' free- 
dom from accursed warfare, a mighty insurrection 
arose among the Jews against the oppressive yoke 
of Rome. The insurgents were headed by Bar 
Cochaba, the Son of a Star, the last and greatest 
of the false Messiahs. After three years of warfare 
and butchery, Bar Cochaba, with sword in hand, 
fell down slain on the walls of Beth-er, near Beth- 



162 



lehem, and forthwith the domination of the Romans 
was restored. The Emperor Hadrian, filled with 
wrath at the insurrection, again destroyed Jeru- 
salem, and drove the Jews from their hallowed 
■city. He fixed a Roman colony on Zion, built a 
heathen temple on Moriah, on the site of the sacred 
edifice of the Jews, and dedicated it to Capitoline 
Jupiter. When the colony had increared in size 
he bestowed upon the new city the name of Mlia, 
Capitolina, combining with his own family title of 
iElius the name of Jupiter of the Capitol, the 
guardian deity of the colony. Christians and 
pagans were permitted to reside there, but the Jews 
were forbidden to enter the city on pain of death } 
and this stern decree remained in force in the days 
of Tertullian, about a century afterwards. About 
the middle of the fourth century, however, the 
Jews were permitted to dwell in the neighbour- 
hood, and once a year — on the anniversary of the 
capture of Jerusalem — they were allowed to enter 
the Temple enclosure that they might approach 
the lapis pertusus, or perforated stone, and anoint 
it with oil. ' There,' says an ancient writer, 'they 
make lamentations with groans, and rend their 
garments, and so retire.' 

Jerome, the eminent Latin Father, who founded 
a convent at Bethlehem, and for thirty years led 
an ascetic life in the Holy Land, when comment- 
ing, about 400 a.d., on Zephaniah i. 14, ' The 
mighty man shall cry there bitterly,' draws a vivid 



163 

picture of the wretched crowds of Jews who in his 
day assembled at the Wailing Place, by the west 
wall of the Temple, to bemoan the loss of their 
ancestral greatness. On the ninth of the month 
Ab, might be seen the aged antf decrepit of both 
sexes, with tattered garments and dishevelled hair, 
who met to weep over the downfall of Jerusalem, 
and purchased permission of the soldiery to pro- 
long their lamentations, et mi es mercedem postulat 
ut illisflere plus liceat. The perforated stone, called 
lapis pertusus, is probably the Sakhra or sacred 
rock of Moriah, originally the threshing-floor of 
Araunah the Jebusite, and now covered with the 
elegant sanctuary called Kubbet es-Sakhra or 
Dome of the Rock. 

After the Moslem occupation of Jerusalem in 
the seventh century, the lapis pertusus, or sacred 
rock of Moriah, was invested with a sanctity sec- 
ond only to the Kaaba of Mecca. This sanctity 
was afterwards extended to the whole of the 
top of Moriah, and, consequently, the heretic 
Jews were driven outside the Temple's enclosure. 
In course of time, however, they approached the 
outer walls, and there continued to celebrate their 
lamentation service. Thus for above twelve cen- 
turies have the Jews assembled outside the walls 
of their ancient Temple ; but it would be difficult, 
with our present knowledge, to prove that the 
present Wailing Place has been the identical spot 
of lamentation throughout the many generations 



164 

that have lived and died since the Moslem occupa- 
tion of Jerusalem under Khalif Omar in 137 A. D. 



CHAPTER XVIII. 



MT. MORI AH. .GETHSEMANE. 



Temple Area, How made, Mosque of Omar. — Sakhra or 
Foundation Stone, Center of the World, Mohammed's 
marvelous flight to Heaven. — Other Moslem Legends. 
— How they learn Music — En Rogel. King's Garden, 
Virgin's Fountain. — Gethsemane. — Grotto of the 
Agony. — Under the City of Jerusalem. — Model of 
Solomon's Temple. — Mt. Olivet. 

THE temple area covers thirty-five acres ; it 
is above Ophel, a hill between the Tyropceon 
Valley and the Valley of Jehoshaphat ; it is now 
nearly level, for Solomon built walls and pillars on 
the top of which he placed arches, supporting a 
platform, on the top of which he built other pillars 
and continued the circumscribing walls to a very 
great height. 

The walls are, mostly, now, under ground, but 
the same platform built by him remains, and the 
subterranean caves made by covering over these 
pillars are called Solomon's stables and the pillars 
have rings in them to which, no doubt the halters 
were tied. If they were not used by King Solo- 
mon for stables, they were by the Knights Tem- 
plars. A little to the west of the center of the 
temple area is the Mosque of Omar, on the site of 



166 



Solomon's Temple. It is an elevated platform of 
white marble fifteen feet higher than the surround- 
ing area. Julian the apostate attempted to rebuild 
the temple to prove that Christ was a false prophet; 
but while excavating, balls and flames of fire 
issued from the ground, consuming the workmen. 
It was attempted again, afterward, with similar 
results. 

"After the conquest of the country by the Mo- 
hammedans, one of the first acts of Calif Omar 
was to build a splendid Mosque, known as the 
" Dome of the Rock," on the site of Jehovah's 
Temple. This edifice, afterward beautified by Calif 
Abdel Marwan, still crowns the summit of Moriah, 
and the place is regarded by the Moslems as only 
second to Mecca in point of interest, as Moham- 
med is said to have ascended to Heaven from here. 
The Mosque is an octagonal building, five hun- 
dred and thirty-six feet in circumference, sur- 
mounted with a graceful dome supported by twelve 
exquisite antique marble and porphyry columns. 
Covering, as it does, simply this naked rock so sa- 
cred in its associations to Jew, Christian and Mo- 
hamedan, nothing could be more appropriate or 
grand. It is much finer than St. Sophia at Con- 
stantinople, or St. Marks at Venice ; has no rival 
for grace or sanctity, and its peculiar shape is the 
only reason it has not been more extensively 
copied ; but as a shrine for the " Rock of Ages " it 
is perfectly beautiful, and when the sunshine 



167 

streams through its fifty-six gorgeous windows, its 
golden mosaics seem to kindle up with a divine 
fire, rendering the spot truly glorious. The build- 
ing is encased on the outside with encaustic tiling 
and colored marble/within it is.golden arabasque 
mosaic, very rich, with passages from the Koran 
everywhere inserted in the walls. And, what is 
remarkable, no reference is made in the inscrip- 
tion to David, Solomon, or Mohammed, but the 
name of "Jesus the Son of Mary," is mentioned 
four times, Is this prophetic of its becoming some 
day a christian church ? 

The profound repose and death-like silence of 
this Temple is in keeping with the sacredness of 
the place, for here alone, in all the earth was the 
only living and true God worshipped throughout 
long ages ! When Greece was ignorant of God, and 
Rome had " changed the glory of the Incorrupti- 
ble into an image made like to corruptible man," 
the descendants of Abraham on this mount and in 
this place still preserved the writings of Moses, and 
the worship of the one true and only God. It was 
here Solomon erected his beautiful Temple ; here 
through long centuries the daily sacrifice was 
offered, and God manifested himself to his people 
in the mysterious Shekinah as nowhere else on the 
earth. Here first were sung those stirring psalms 
of David, which ever since have been ascending 
like incense from earth to Heaven. Toward this 
spot God's people in every age, and in every land 



168 



have turned their faces when they prayed ; and it 
was here the Great Teacher himself taught his 
disciples, wrought his miracles, and near by, on 
Calvary, a spur of the same mountain, as the 
" Lamb of God," was sacrificed for the sins of the 
world. Surely, " This is none other but the house 
of God and the gate of Heaven."* 

The rock beneath this gorgeous dome is the one 
on which Josephus says Abraham built an altar for 
the sacrifice of Isaac. Through the rock there is 
a hole about twenty inches in diameter, used, no 
doubt, for conveying the remains of sacrifices and 
the ashes to some subterranean sewer or passage 
emptying in the valley of Jehoshaphat, but the 
Mohammedans say that Mahomet went from this 
place to Heaven passing through the rock (there 
is a cave under the rock, his praying place) mak- 
ing this hole, he sprang up from the rock, and they 
pretend to show one his track on the rock, they 
say the rock started to follow him, but Gabriel flew 
from Heaven and caught the stone, checking it in 
midair, he left the print of his hand upon it, which 
is shown you, and they pretend that the rock has 
been miraculously suspended there ever since, 
having no visible support. They also say that from 
the east wall of the Temple area to Mt. Olivet a 
bridge will be built as narrow as a razor's edge, 
Christ will sit at one end and Mahomet at the other, 
every mortal will have to cross over it, the right- 
*Dr. De Hass in " Buried Cities Recovered." 



169 



•eous alone will suceed, the wicked will fall off and 
perish in the valley of Jehoshaphat, over which the 
bridge is built. Near the Mosque of Omar is the 
Mosque El Aksa, built for a christian church. 
In this, contrary to reason, for it occurred in the 
Temple, they shew where the angel appeared to 
Zachariah, where Mary lodged, and the cradle (a 
rnarble one) in which Christ lay during his stay 
on the occasion of his circumcision. This is in a 
-cave under the temp le area and is possibly true; the 
print of his feet where he stood on the occasion of 
arguing with the doctors and lawyers, is pointed out. 

We wandered about the hallowed spot until 
nearly sundown, went through the Via Dolorosa 
by the churches of the Flagellation, Ecce Homo 
and by Pilate's Gate. We went to see Robinson's 
arch the same afternoon ; this is the remainder of 
a ruined bridge once crossing from Mt. Moriah to 
Mt. Zion, over Tyropeon valley ; it was one hun- 
dred and ten feet high. We measured some of 
the stones forming the buttress in the wall ; one 
was forty-seven by four by four ; two were twenty- 
five by six by eight feet. The largest one weighs 
over ninety tons. 

One day Mr. M. and I walked around the city 
about a mile beyond the walls, taking in eight 
high hills. We passed a cemetery from which a 
melancholy and monotonous bugle sounded for 
hours. In our conjectures about the occasion of 
such a, to us, unique procedure, we finally con- 



170 



eluded some soldier was dead and these were ex- 
pressions of military grief, (as such they would 
have been fitting.) We stood and watched the 
manoeuvres of the camp some hundreds of yards; 
away in Gihon valley ; we decided this time they 
were about to inter some noted charger, as cer- 
tainly they were handling a dead horse, where- 
upon we thought the solo still more appropriate ;, 
but the horse was disposed of and our musician 
still made the welkin ring. Subsequent inquiry 
revealed to us that he was a mile from the city, in 
obedience to a delicate sense of the fitness of 
things, to practice. I thought at once of Dr. 
Talmage's remark that an embryo cornetist might 
get to heaven, but it would be hard for his neigh- 
bors to do so. Perhaps the city fathers of Jeru- 
salem saw no chance unless they ostracised for 
the time their band recruits. 

We took one day to do the hills around Jeru- 
salem and one the valleys. We start down Gihon, 
called Hinnom, below the lower pool of Gihon, 
and pass four most pitiable looking lepers, some 
of whom have lost fingers, some toes, some the 
voice except a dry husky whisper. A good house 
has been provided for them, and support, about 
one mile south-west of the city, but they prefer to- 
sit by the way-side and beg. We go down Hin- 
nom to En Rogel, in Jehoshaphat valley ; here is a 
pool of most filthy looking water, but used ; here 
David's friends came for news when he fled from. 



171 



Absalom — 2 Sam., 17:17. We then go up through 
the King's gardens, which are luxuriant and fruit- 
ful enough, watered, as they are, from the pool of 
Siloam, to deserve the name. We pause at Siloe's 
brook to see the daughters of Siloam come over 
for water and do their washing. It is no longer a 
"shady rill," nor an inspirer of lofty song, except 
to the blind indeed. We ascend to Gethsemane, 
enclosed by a Avail of stone about seven or eight 
feet high; it covers about one eighth of an acre, 
contains eight large olive trees, possibly the same 
under which the disciples slept when He was 
withdrawn from them, about a stone's cast, to 
pray. It is in the possession of the Franciscan 
order of the Latin church, and kept by a kind 
and courteous gardener, who gave us, unsolicited, 
small bouquets, for which he refused backsheesh ! 
He also refused to increase the size of them for 
pay. We tried to call up the scenes of that dole- 
ful night, when our best friend "trod the wine-press 
alone," "and of the people there was none with 
Him." Hard by is a cave called the "Grotto of 
the Agony," into which the Savior retired to pray ; 
the Latins have a church there now and in it a 
beautiful statuette representing the agony and the 
angel strengthening Him. My heart swelled with 
gratitude that already such an inheritance had 
fallen to me b}^ His sufferings and death, and that 
these good things are but the earnest of what 
awaits us beyond. 



172 



Before leaving Jerusalem we went into the sub- 
terranean quarries, where King Solomon got stone 
for building the city, the Temple and the Walls of 
Jerusalem. One can wander here for hours over 
new ground all the time, see how the stone was 
cut from the living rock and severed by wooden 
wedges. Here are tons on tons of chips, where 
they were trimmed before going into the wall. 
We also went to see the models of the Temples of 
Solomon and Herod and the Mosque of Omar, by 
Mr. Shick, who has been present at all modern 
excavations about the city, who has read all the 
books that have been written on the subject, and 
who probably knows more about Jerusalem^— an- 
cient and modern — than any other living man on 
earth. This model was thirty years in building 
and is a perfect piece of workmanship. He offers 
to sell the whole for $3,000, which is very cheap. 
We bought photos of this model, and in London I 
had them put on glass for use in a stereopticon. 

We went to Mt. Olivet and ascended the tower 
there, from which one has a splendid view. To the 
east, four thousand feet below and eighteen miles 
away we can clearly see the Dead Sea and the 
Jordan valley for fifty or sixty miles ; beyond, the 
mountains of Moab. On the west Jerusalem lies 
on the slopes of the hills rising from the valley of 
Jehoshaphat, while to the south fruitful fields 
stretch out in pleasing panorama towards Beth- 
lehem. North we see many small towns, which 




173 



no doubt were large cities in David : s day. We 
are near the place, possibly on the very spot, on 
which the disciples and friends of our Lord gath- 
ered that memorable day to see their Lord ascend. 
The Russians (Greek) have a church here—a very 
fine one— called the Church' of the Ascension. 
We did not enter it, but hoped that when He who 
ascended here shall descend again, we may be 
found ready to meet him in peace. 



CHAPTER XIX. 



NORTH OF JERUSALEM. 



Robber's Glen. — Shiloh. — Samuel, and the Dedication of 
Children to God. — Jacob's Well. — Joseph's Tomb. — 
Place for Reflection. — Ebal, Gerizim, Sychar. — Last 
of the Samaritans. — Old Pentateuchs. — Missions. — 
Other Evidences of Prosperity. — A Typical Mill. — 
Samaria, a Wasted Capitol. — Displays of Mohamme- 
dan Bigotry — Jenin, Worse Demonstrations. — Con- 
spiracy, Narrow Escape. — The "Little Foxes" — 
Esdraelon, the World's Oldest Battle-field. — Jezreel, 
Home of Jezebel, Jehu and Gideon. — Gideon's Foun- 
tain.— -Shunem, Nairn — Endor. 

The second day out from Jerusalem was very 
rainy, and we needed the Arab abias (a kind of 
overcoat used by Bedawins) we had bought in 
Jerualem, which were good waterproofs. 

We passed through Hora-Meiyeh or Robbers' 
Glen, where we met a caravan of about forty 
camels, with as many drivers; their cargo was 
wheat, which was on the ground while the camels 
were grazing. There is an excellent spring in this 
glen at which we got a good draught. Our road 
wound up the ravine, while on either hand the 
hillsides were terraced to the top, with no less than 
one hundred stone walls, some of them ten and 
twelve feet high. On these terraces wheat or len- 
tils are sown, or fig or olive trees planted. 



175 



We reached the' site of ancient Shiloh about 
noon, where we lunched in an old ruined church. 
We saw the desolation spoken of by Jeremiah 7: 
12-14 and 26:6, and remembered that this was 
once Joshua's capitol, where he reared up the 
tabernacle — Joshua 18. That here Eli lived and 
died, that here Hannah came and prayed and was 
heard and obtained the desire of her heart, and 
made yearly visits to bring her boy a little coat. 

And as I read this history, I thought it a strong 
argument in favor of dedicating our children to 
God in infancy by the covenant of baptism, es- 
pecially when I considered the happy results. 

We ride during the afternoon through the fer- 
tile plains of Ephraim and reach Jacob's well just 
before night. It too is walled in and a gate kept 
for backsheesh, but the gate-keeper was absent, 
and we climbed up some other way, i. e., over the 
wall. A church was once built over the well, but 
it has gone to destruction, leaving only broken col- 
umns projecting here and there from the debris. 
A large stone, like a mill-stone, covers the shaft; 
this stone has a hole drilled through it about two 
feet in diameter. It was very deep but dry. We 
longed for a draught from its depths. We sat on 
that well's mouth and looked over the fields two 
months later in the year than when our Lord said: 
*" Say not ye, There are yet four months, and then 
'Cometh harvest?" Just out there a few hundred 
paces is a tomb called Joseph's tomb in the parcel 



176 



of ground that Jacob gave to his son Joseph, where 
they buried him — Joshua 24:32 and John 4:5. We 
look up at Mt. Ebal and Gerizim, called mountains 
of Cursing and Blessing, Josh. 8:33. 

I copy from my Diary the following, written the 
evening we were there: " Our Lord must have 
been here in winter, but at any season the scene is 
inspiring. Already the place was old and full of 
history, beneath him was Jacob's well, before him 
the parcel of ground he had bought and lost ini 
unequal conquest and retaken with his " sword and 
bow," in the midst of it was Joseph's tomb, above 
him the Mountains of Blessing and Cursing, around 
him a people dead to their privileges and duties,, 
and void of any knowledge of the truth. - 

No place on earth was better suited to reflection, 
on the remote and romantic past, the serious and 
pregnant present, the sad foreboding future. "Oh,, 
Son of God, I am riding by where thou walkedst 
and wast weary with the journey, resting thy weary 
head, it may be, that night on some of these stones,, 
because the Jews and Samaritans have no dealings- 
with one another. I go up to Shechem, whither,, 
perhaps, thou couldst not, and find a good home. 
I have enough of all but thy spirit. Thou car- 
riedst all our woes. Thou art worthy to be crowned 
Lord of all. Be my portion forever, and lift me, 
a constant beneficiary of thy grace, to a higher 
plane of living." 

We ride between Ebal and Gerizim to Sy char of 



177 



old, called now Nablous. It is a city of 12,000 
inhabitants and contains the remnant of the old 
stock of Samaritans (about one hundred and fifty) 
whose chief or high priest, Jacob Shalsby, we saw' 
at Jaffa. They still worship in Mt. Gerizim as di- 
rected, — Ex. 12. I saw the old Pentateuch manu- 
script in their possession, which they hold to be 
twenty -six hundred years old. It is parchment 
and rolls on two cylinders from one of which it un- 
rolls as it rolls upon the other, it is about twenty- 
four inches wide, and very dingy as one would ex- 
pect. The Turks have a garrison here. There are- 
signs of great poverty. The curse of leprosy abides 
and abounds. There is a steam wheat mill and a 
soap factory or two, though none of the inhabi- 
tants appear to have ever used any of the soap. 
We spent the night with Mr. Fulcher, a missionary,, 
who was so busy trying to right some altercation 
(I think) that had arisen that we had little conver- 
sation with him. He remarked, in answer to some 
questions, he was only sowing seed now. 

The next morning we rode down a stream on a 
splendid road that went to Jaffa. On the banks of 
this creek that emptied its water into the Mediter- 
ranean, grew the richest vegetation, the finest olive 
trees, and most luxuriant gardens. We also passed 
about a dozen flouring mills run by water power. 
No dams were built across the stream but a long 
race carried the water until a fall of twenty feet 
could be secured, then in an aqueduct made of 
stone the water is carried to the centrifugal wheel 



178 



which is the only power we saw used in Palestine . 
We saw one turned by concussion in Syria. I dis- 
mounted and entered one of these ; the stones were 
about three feet in diameter, the upper one was 
about six inches thick, without a hoop, while the 
flour unbolted ran out in a depressed place on the 
floor. The miller was standing barefooted in the 
grist ; two or three donkeys and as many dogs were 
standing around near enough to begin a meal the 
moment the guard (the miller) should leave his 
charge. We leave the good road and take a bridle 
path to Samaria, the old capitol of Samaria. Hun- 
dreds of columns, monoliths, some in situ mark- 
ing the course of the vast colonnade, some scat- 
tered over the fields tell of a magnificence and 
splendor worthy of the Roman that whilom ruled 
this ruined realm. 

We leave this desolate city and pass through 
charming landscapes ; far away on every hand, 
nestled under the hills, are towns that look pretty in 
the distance, a circumstance that always helps a 
Mohammedan town. We pass through one — Jeb-a 
— where the children come out and cry after us "go 
on," "leave here!" "you are Infidels!" "you will 
all go to hell !" "God will not give you long life !" 
; 'You are Nazarenes," &c. We met another large 
caravan of Damascus merchants going down to 
Joppa or Egypt. We pass Sanur on a high hill 
and the last fortress to yield to Ibrahim Pasha 
when he overran this country, Dothan, where Jo- 



179 



seph's brethren were feeding their flocks and Ben- 
hadad sought Elisha, and his men were stricken 
with blindness — 2 Kings, 6. We stop for the 
night at Jenin, on the boundary of the plain of 
Esclraelon. It is a well watered town, containing 
about four thousand inhabitants. There is no 
hotel there and we lodged with an Arab. They 
gave us the principal room in the house. The 
floor was covered with matting for a carpet. Some 
real fine paintings were on the wall ; and they 
gave us an excellent dinner of soup, pigeons, 
sheep and vegetables, including plenty of lettuce, 
which has no substitute nor rival in the world, 
as they grow it and prepare it. 

While we were eating, however, our dragoman 
and the Arabs in the yard had some bitter words. 
I think it was about our stopping in the town, as 
they used the words Christian and Nazarene a good 
deal. He would not tell us the cause, which 
confirmed my conviction that I had conjectured 
aright. He left them and came in and closed the 
door, not, however, until they had thrown a stone 
or two. I made bodily protection a matter of 
special prayer that evening. A Christian mis- 
sionary (Catholic) had been driven from the town, 
and where Catholics can't retain a hold, it is not 
the place to be careless in. We found a body of 
soldiers in a few yards of our dwelling next morn- 
ing, and to them, under God's good providence, 
we may have owed our safety. 



180 



The Arabs failing to kill us the fleas tried. Mr. 
M., who was sick and restless anyway, remarked 
that one could stand two or three hundred fleas, 
but when they came by baskets full and bushels, 
the supply was beyond the demand, reminding' 
one of the boarder at school who said he did not 
mind hash, for sixty or seventy meals, but when it 
became a regular thing he got tired of it. We 
survived them however and arose to pursue our 
way over the battle-field of the world, the Plains 
of Jezreel. It is ravish ingly beautiful as a tract of 
country and possessed of a history that will ever 
claim a share of the research and study of the his- 
torian and antiquarian. Here fell Ahab and 
Ahaziah, Jehoram and Jezebel, Sisera and Saul. 
The following is our diary for that day, March 21 : 

"Leaving our dwelling at 7 o'clock we go out by 
a very large crystal fountain, pass a large Khan, 
full of Arab travelers, the Pasha's to the right and 
a mosque to the left, and in two minutes are on the 
plain. Jenin is full of gardens, cactus and palm- 
trees. Twenty miles or so to our left is Mt. Car- 
mel, on each side the fellahs (farmers) are weeding 
the wheat and barley, the air is vocal with the 
songs of birds and misty clouds, just enough to 
temper the rays of the ascending sun are flitting 
about. Soon we descry Mt. Hermon, covered with 
snow, far to the north, Mt. Tabor to the northeast, 
and Gilboa to southeast. We are in the midst of 
the plain, every acre of which has drunk the blood 



181 

of fallen warriors. Ix is well cultivated for Arab 
farmers, and very fruitful, but the poor fellah is 
robbed by the government of all except the scant- 
iest support ; to be tardy in paying tax is a crime 
severely punished. The collectors go in pairs, 
often in squads of four or six, armed with swords 
and repeating rifles. They levy on olive trees and 
collect for them before they bloom. Arabs have 
taken the sword and literacy perish by the sword 
in the hand of the tax-gatherer. We come in two 
hours to Jezreel, home of Jezebel, Ahab, and Na- 
both, of Jehu, Jehoram and Gideon. Jezreel is 
on a hill, the first of the Gilboa range from the 
west. The houses are all built of mud. 

We pass Fuleh, scene of the battle of Mt. Ta- 
bor, 1799, where Kheber with fifteen hundred 
French soldiers fought twenty -five thousand 
Turks for six hours, when Napoleon came up with 
six hundred more and routed them. Here at 
hand is the part of the plain where Gideon, with 
his three hundred, vanquished the Philistines by 
night. There they in turn triumphed over Saul 
the next day after he had gone over yon hill to con- 
sult the witch whose cave is in Endor, just behind. 

One or two miles east are the "high places" 1 

Sam. 29 ; 2 Sam. 1: 19-27. And sparkling in the 
sunlight to our right are the waters of Gideon's 
fountain, where his thirsty troops lapped water as 
a dog— Judg. 7: 6. Before we are done taking in 
these things our horses have walked into Shunem, 



182 



scene of Elisha's labors, where lived that woman 
with such correct ideas of taste and political 
economy as to have her husband build a room 
to their house for the preacher. If any would 
learn how she was paid many fold let him read 
2 Kings, 4: 8-37. Mt. Carmel, to which she made 
her servant drive the donkey in a trot, without stop- 
ping, is in sight about fifteen miles west. Shunem 
is surrounded by a wall of living cactus, through 
which no living animal larger than a rat could pass. 

A mile beyond the town we pass a Bedouin en- 
campment ; they are flaying a sheep of the species 
called "fat-tail." The tail is about the ordinary 
length of a sheep's tail, but except the bone and 
skin is a solid lump of fat weighing five to eight 
pounds, and is used by the natives as*butter ! 

We dine at Nain in a Catholic church, or rather 
in a room joining the church. It is a miserable 
Arab village now about three miles from Endor, 
whither we go to look into the cave visited by Saul 
the night preceding his death. The cave is there ; 
so are others ; so we looked into others to be sure ; 
but one large one is shown as the real scene of 
the dialogue— 1 Sam. 28: 11-19. A surly Turk 
was sitting in the cave when we visited it. He 
had a sword, but did not speak or strike. Here 
we saw many mud bee-gums on the roofs of the 
mud houses, and quantities of very busy bees. It 
is one hour's ride from this place to the top of Mt. 
Tabor, where we spend the night. 



CHAPTER XX. 



MT. TABOR, SEA OF GALILEE, NAZARETH. 



Tabor.— The Transfiguration.— Through a Paradise to 
Tiberias.— Backsheesh.— A Hide in the Sea to Caper- 
naum.— Fishing.— Bathing tn the Sea.— Natural Hot 
Baths.— Mountain of Beatitudes.— Cana.— Nazareth 
Missions.— A Walk about Jesus' Birth-place. 

WHILE some doubt shades the title of 
Tabor to the honor- of the scene of our 
Lord's transfiguration, we gave it the benefit of 
our sanction, and tried to feel that near by us some- 
where that august event occured. 

Napoleon had been here, we cared not for that, 
Alexander perhaps, the Crusaders, Barak and 
Deborah and even Melchizedek. Each had en- 
gaged in conflicts affecting the destiny of nations, 
to greater or less extent, but not for any nor all of 
these would we have gone thither. We hoped to 
come if possible where the Son of Mary was made 
so glorious before His brethren's eyes. 

We went up a zig-zag road through a thin forest 
of low scrubby oaks, the summit is nearly level 
and elliptical in shape, being about five hundred 
yards long by three hundred wide. Old walls and 
fortifications scattered in confused masses cover 



184 

the entire top. It is about eighteen hundred feet 
high, standing alone in the plain. 

From a certain point both the Mediterranean 
and Sea of Galilee are visible, the country of 
Bashan and most of central Palestine and all of 
the Plain of Esdraelon. Nazareth fifteen miles 
across the plains nestled among the hills may be 
plainly seen. 

A great educator from Massachusetts asked me, 
if I had to eliminate from memory all that I had 
seen in the Holy Land with a single exception 
which particular thing or place would I retain? 
Finding it difficult to decide he quickened my 
thought by mentioning Esdraelon. 

The Russians or Greeks and Latins both have 
churches here, and priests but no worshippers. 
We spent the night with the latter, cut a nice 
walking stick or two, some pen-holders, and read 
up such history as we had in the Bible and guide- 
books relating to Mt. Tabor. 

Next morning we rode across the plains where 
millions of bees gathered sweets from nature's 
prodigal gardens, through which also shepherd 
boys tended hundreds of sheep, and goats with 
ears a foot in length, making them equal in con- 
spicuity to the fat-tail sheep. About noon our 
dragoman, who rode in front of us reined up his 
horse and turned him around, saying backsheesh ! 
by which he meant I have led you to a sight worth 
plenty of money, and so he had. In one minute 



185 



more we paused at the top of a hill that descended 
suddenly for a thousand feet ; under the hill lay 
the city of Tiberias in the margin of the sea of the 
same name. The Sea of Galilee is thirteen miles 
long by seven wide, greatest diameters. Its surface 
was perfectly smooth, except here and there, it 
. appeared to be the play-place of just the tiniest 
zephyrs which would go in every direction, never • 
staying long enough nor yet hastening strong 
enough to more than betray their presence and 
make a picture as by one touch of the brush. 

The lake is girt about by a plane about one or 
two miles wide. We walk down this dreadful hill, 
take dinner, get a boat and go to Tel-Hum or Ca- 
pernaum, now desolate ; go out in the ruins over- 
run with weeds, stand on the foundation of-an old 
church supposed to be the one built by that Ro- 
man who wished Jesus to heal his servant — Luke 
7:3-5, the synagogue in which Jesus, often preached. 
I looked over the desolate place, thought of his 
reproofs, when this was his home. Here he called 
Peter, James and John ; here he delivered that 
most remarkable discourse — John 6. 

It is a never-to-be-forgotten object lesson one 
learns in wandering amongst these cities once so 
populous, once so blessed, now so forsaken. 

We returned by Bethsaida (fish town.) Nothing 
remains of it but a mill. We gathered some shells 
for far-away friends, saw our boatmen catch a nice 



186 



draught of fishes, and returned through the dark- 
ness. The jackals screamed and howled on the 
shore. We were under a starry sky and thought 
of Byron's lines: 

" Like stars that shine nightly on hlue Galilee, &c." 

The wind arose, and we talked of the night that 
followed the miracle of feeding the five thousand 
when the twelve were in such evil plight. We read 
all the references to the Sea of Galilee, and the 
Gospels became new to us. 

Next morning I went out and took a bath in the 
pellucid lake, picked up a smooth stone, rode down 
to see the Sulphur Spring, where baths may be had 
in a well fitted Up bathroom free of charge; They 
are said to be very potent in curing rheumatism. 
The temperature of these springs is 128° Fah. 

Our next objective point is Nazareth. We pass, 
on the way, the Mount of the Beatitudes, by which 
the Crusaders fought their last battle and were 
vanquished by the Moslems under Saladin. W r e 
reach Cana about noon and take lunch in a pome- 
granate garden, Drs. Burkley and Bancroft ride 
by, going towards Tiberias. We all wish to see 
the jars which held the wine made of water by 
Jesus, at the wedding, but the Greeks and Catholics 
have possession of them (if they exist at all) and 
are quarreling about whose they are, and we were 
debarred the privilege. Over the same road Jesus 
so often traveled from Nazareth to Capernaum, 



187 

we reached Nazareth Saturday afternoon about 
3 P. M., and stayed until Monday morning. 

Mr. M. is sick, so I am compelled to do Naza- 
reth alone. -(For though an old man has been with 
us all the time, he knows nothing, and looks up a 
beer-shop in preference to places of historic value, 
So I take our guide and go to the precipitous place 
over which the wicked Jews purposed throwing 
Jesus, called the Hill of Precipitation. I attended 
the Episcopal Mission church in the forenoon and 
looked through their splendid Female College in 
the afternoon, where about 80 or 100 girls are be- 
ing educated and christianized. They also have 
seven other schools in the country around, super- 
intended by Miss Edith Gaze Brown. These are to 
become wives and mothers, some of these days, and 
that of the best people of the country. They are 
sowing good seed in a fruitful field. I should say 
that this mission belongs to the " Ladies' Evan- 
gelical Society in the East," whose headquarters 
are in London. They repeat Psalms, and sing 
from u Gospel Hymns " in Sunday School, and 
also use the International Lessons. 

In Nazareth one is shown Joseph's house, work- 
shop, Church of the Annunciation, and a stone 
over which a church is built, on which it is 
claimed Jesus ate with his disciples before, and 
after his resurrection, though the evidence to es- 
tablish the truth of this assertion is not very 
satisfactory. 



188 



We ascended the hill to the Wely Sim'an, 
(tomb of Simeon) above the town. We can see 
Acre and the Sea, beyond Esdraelon and the in- 
tervening hills into the plain of Sharon. While 
enjoying this sumptuous panoramic feast three 
young men came up, one of whom was nearly 
blind, (20 per cent, of these people have injured 
eyes.) He told me he would give me a hundred 
dollars to cure his eyes ; a more impossible task 
was never presented. I thought of my weakness, 
and at the same time of the power of Him whose 
boyhood was spent in the city below and on these 
hills and plains, who undertook just such a case 
while He lived, and whose power was not short- 
ened because He had moved His dwelling place. 
I preached unto him Jesus. He was a Christian. 
They drew a .Bible on me to know on what I 
based my belief that Jesus would heal his eyes. 
I told him to read John 14: 13-14. He said he 
would pray for eye-sight, and I promised to pray 
for him. 

They left me and went off to an olive tree, un- 
der which they sat down to read the book they 
had and ponder no doubt upon the liberal con- 
struction they had just heard put upon its an- 
nouncements. As I looked at them I thought of 
the boyhood of Jesus, who must often have 
climbed , these hills to gaze at the snow-covered 
mountains in the north, the luxuriant plain be- 
low and the great sea beyond. Yes, all these so 



189 



delightful to me, were all familiar to Him. He 
must often have lingered here till twilight softened 
the scene and darkness shut out all but His own 
thoughts upon human life, man's folly and his 
danger, his possible attainment. and the effort He 
purposed putting forth to rescue us, His conflict 
• with evil and error, His rejection and death, that 
life might become a reality to man and immortal- 
ity might be brought to light. 



CHAPTER XXI. 



FROM NAZARETH TO BEIRUT. 



Nazareth to Mt. Carmel.— Market women.— Mr. M. is sick, 
and takes a steamer. — Of Haifa. — A Frantic Scene. — 
Acre, city of Blood. Tax on Salad. — The old Roman 
Road. — Historic Lands, Tyre, Sarepta Ornithopolis, 
Sidon. — History repeats itself. — A Turkish hotel — 
How an Arab makes the Amende honorable. — Mis- 
sions. — Public Highway forts. — Silk manufacture. 

LEAVING Nazareth we reach Haifa under Mt. 
Carmel in six hours, passing on the way sev- 
eral small towns, some built among the hills of 
stone, some on the plain of mud. We met be- 
tween thirty and forty women with large copper 
basins filled with milk, holding five or six gallons 
each, going to Nazareth; several men were along 
with them, but they rode donkeys, never deigning 
to touch the loads carried by their wives, mothers 
and sisters ; that is the custom here, the women 
are oma level with the donkeys, as laborers. We 
find a good hotel, but Mr. Merrill has got worse 
all the time, and fearing he had meningitis I pro- 
cured passage for him on a steamer going to Beirut 
that evening. Next morning I went with our mule- 
teer to the top of Mt. Carmel. The Catholics have 
a church over the cave in which Elijah hid, when 



191 



Ahab sought his life ; nearby is the cave in which 
Obadiah is said to have hid the fifty prophets — 
I Kings 28 : 13. Napoleon used this church for a 
hospital when he besieged Acre, twelve miles 
across, or around the bay in 1799. 

Haifa is a seaport town. Most of the people are 
Christians, and Germans ; they seem very thrifty 
and came here to have religious liberty as our 
pilgrim fore-fathers came to America. I do not 
understand their creed, however, even after hear- 
ing it explained. The government is macademiz- 
ing a road from this place to Tiberias by Nazareth 
and Cana. From this point telegraph wires run to 
Jerusalem, Shechem, Tiberias, Nazareth, Beirut, &c. 

There are many nice orange groves and vine- 
yards here, and much wheat is shipped hence to 
France and Spain. In the afternoon of next day 
we rocle around the bay, crossed the Kishon, " that 
ancient Eiver Kishon," on whose banks Elijah 
slew the prophets of Baal — I Kings 18 : 40. It is 
a small stream, barely large enough to turn a mill. 
We stopped for the night in Acre, called also, 
Ptolemais, and St. John d' Acre. It is the "Key of 
Palestine," has been besieged and burnt often. Its 
history goes back to the Egyptian kings, centuries 
B. C, and it figured largely in the crusades. Its 
present population is 5,000, of whom 700 are 
Christians, the remainder Mohametans. 

A German preacher, named Bitzer, joined us 
liere and traveled with us the rest of the way. I 



192 



found him, however, a better companion to our 
beer-drinker than to myself. 

I and Isa (our dragoman) took a boat and went 
out to the steamer on which Mr. M. was going to 
Beruit, to see how he was getting on. There were 
about twenty Arab boats all loaded with wheat, 
destined for some distant market. While we were 
on , the steamer all business was suspended and 
the greatest possible uproar began. I thought one 
of the wheat boats was sinking, but the confusion 
increased to such an extent I concluded the steam- 
er was going down. The Arabs (about one hun- 
dred of them) were all. talking at once, some of 
them were frantic and gesticulated like madmen. 
I could not understand a word they said, but 
knew that something awful had happened or was 
about to happen so I told Isa to let us be going. 
He laughed, and told me the occasion of the ex- 
citement, as follows : One of the crew had smiled 
at a Mussulman who was praying on the deck of 
the boat, (a very common thing), the Arab had 
seen him and wanted him punished by the officers 
of the ship, and all the rest were in sympathy with 
the aggrieved devotee. 

In the twelfth century more than ten times the 
present population were killed here during a single 
siege. In the thirteenth century Khalit-Ibn-Kha- 
laem, Sultan of Egypt besieged and captured it in 
thirty -three days and slew 25,000 Christians, many 
of whom (ladies) cut their own noses off to escape 



more barbarous treatment. Many remnants of 
the crusaders may still be seen, notably the old 
church of St. John, and a hospital. We drank 
from a fountain of brackish water, said to have 
wrought miraculous cures. But the greatest honor 
the place has ever known is recorded in Acts xxi: 7. 

Leaving Acre next morning we saw many people 
gathered on the outside of the city ga^e. They were 
both from the town and country, the former had 
come out to buy the vegetables, the latter had 
brought to sell, which were auctioned off by the 
donkey load without unloading the beast. The 
following articles were selling at different stations 
as we passed : onions, carrots, potatoes, lettuce and 
other salads, oranges, lemons, milk and curds. 
Sold outside the gate to avoid taxation. 

A splendid aqueduct brings water from the 
mountains to the town. We # ride by this about 
ten miles. Our road now lies to the north and 
passes through rich plains in which are groves of 
oranges and lemons. We dine at Khan de Rhauna 
on fresh fish, which they catch in a large circular 
net by wading out into the surf until the fish 
comes in sight when the net which has been 
slightly twisted is thrown like a lasso, and having 
a leadline sinks down rapidly around the fish, the 
leadline is pulled up then to a focus by a draw 
string, a hole is left in the top just large enough to 
take out the fish. 

We pass over White Cape, where the road is cut 



194 



around the cliff five hundred feet above the water 
and a stumbling or misstep of the horse would pre- 
cipitate the rider into the sea. This is the old Ro- 
man road leading from Caesarea to Antioch. We 
descend into the plains filled with old wells and 
stone troughs, and walls, and steps, remnants of 
Hiram's Tyre, which was nineteen miles in cir- 
cumference. ,.We pass near by Hiram' s tomb and 
ride into Tyre and to the house of Abdul Malak 
(Servant of the Angel). There are ruins here that 
would tempt the archaeologist and antiquarian to 
linger many a day. 

The wharf is built of polished columns of stone 
that once supported domes of palaces and temples 
" of perfect beauty." Massive pillars of red granite, 
monoliths, a section of which looks like a heart cut 
of stone, and twenty-five feet long by four in 
diameter, and smaller pieces lie scattered all about, 
marking the « tracks of the destroyers, which 
Ezekiel, chaps, xxvii-xxviii, said would come this 
way. Tyre was built 2350 B. C, and with her 
parent, Sidon, taught navigation to the world, and 
colonized Carthage. Earthquakes, Fire, the Sea 
and War have all exhausted their resources upon 
Tyre. Tyre and Sidon were given to Asher in the 
division of Canaan but triey never got possession 
of them. The Israelities were feeders to them 
and they were necessary to the Israelities, possibty 
until they became so amalgamated, especially in re- 
ligion, as to have all things in common, peaceably. 



195 

A huge mound stands by the way just before 
reaching Tyre, on this it is said once stood the 
temple of Hercules. 

From Tyre to Sidon we cross the Leontes River, 
called here Nahr-el-Kasineiyeh, on a beautiful stone 
bridge (supported by a single arch sixty feet wide, 
the ruined city of Ornithopolis, the Cave-temple 
of Astarte, Sarepta, now in ruins, and a house of 
white stone on the site of the house of the widow 
that fed Elijah.— 1 Kings, 3:12. Every inch of this 
ground has been employed in making the history 
of our race, and imagination repeoples it, rebuilds 
its cities, with streets full of business, and romp- 
ing children, its temples resounding with Astarte's 
praise, repaints its battle scenes of holocaust and 
captive's clanking chains, feels again the earth- 
quake's shock, and trembles at the terrible ven- 
geance of the Almighty angered. 

" Therefore, thus saith the Lord God ; Behold, 
I am against thee, Tyrus, and will cause many 
nations to come up against thee as the sea causeth 
her waves to come up. And they shall destroy the 
walls of Tyrus, and break down her towers; .... 
and they shall lay thy stones and thy timber and 
thy dust in the midst of the water. And I will 
cause the noise of thy songs to cease : and the 
sound of thy harps shall be no more heard. And 
I will make thee like the top of a rock ; thou shalt 
be a place to spread nets upon ; thou shalt be built 



196 



no more : for I the Lord have spoken it, saith the 
Lord God." Ezk. 26: 

We stop at a good hotel at Sidon, kept by an 
Arab. The parlor, saloon, and bedrooms are on 
the second floor, while some shops face the street 
on the lower story. The whole building surrounds 
an open court about fifty feet square, where the 
horses and donkeys are kept. The latter kept up 
a constant braying which prevents one from be- 
coming lonesome. 

The saloon accommodates from one to two hun- 
dred guests. It is fitted up with tables for billiards, 
cards, backgammon, checkers, &c, &c, for all the 
city Arabs gamble and smoke all day and often 
till midnight. 

Our dragoman had been cross and negligent the 
day we reached Sidon ; I had seemed displeased. 
That evening after supper he came into my room 
and begged my pardon, took my hand, put it to 
his forehead and kissed, and took it several times 
to repeat his professed submission to my will. I 
tried to think him sincere, forgave him, and dis- 
missed him seemingly satisfied. 

Sidon is a very ancient city, was built by the 
grandson of Noah, and invented the art of navi- 
gation, carpentry, sculpture, making glass, stone 
cutting, casting iron, &c. Josephus, b. 1: 6. 

The present population numbers about 12.000, 
of whom 2,500 are christians. Nearly all of these, 
however, belong to the Greek and Latin churches; 



197 

but there is a Protestant school doing a good work 
under the patronage of the church of England. 

The road from Sid on to Beirut is the roughest 
we have traveled over, though the French soldiers 
made a splendid road here only a few scores of 
years ago, but it is ruined now. Every two or 
three miles on all the important roads of Pales- 
tine and Syria there is a little stone house built, 
called a guard house. We were glad to see that 
traveling had got to be very safe, as indicated by 
the absence of the guards from most of these. 

We pass over the battle ground of Ptolemy 
and Antiochus the Great, fought 218 B. C, and 
where tradition says the whale left Jonah, and the 
Nahr-El-Danur flowing cool and deep from Mt. 
Lebanon. There are many silk factories along the 
road and thousands of acres of the plains and hill- 
sides are devoted to the culture of mullberry trees 
for the manufacture of silk. 

We pass through a belt of deep red sand for 
three or four miles between walls made of this 
sand when wet, about four or five feet high, 
through groves of pine trees, owned by the govern- 
ment and used for telegraph poles. They are trim- 
med up and are as thick as pines can grow, even in 
North Carolina. We pass the customs officers and 
at 4 p. m. on the twelfth day after leaving Jeru- 
salem we stop at the the Hotel del' Universe, kept 
by a native Syrian, and never found a better, nor 
cheaper one in all our travels. 



CHAPTER XXII. 



BEIRUT. 

All is well that ends well. — En Hebraic Said. — (May you 
have a rich day) — Mr. M. sick still. — Beirut. — Dog 
River. — Sugar and Silk. — Household foes. 

Missionary Matters. — Colleges, Schools, Churches, Hos- 
pitals, Printing Presses, &c, Statistics. 

OUR first thought on reaching Beirut was 
one of relief at having terminated a jour- 
ney perilous on account of the treachery of the 
people one must associate with and depend upon, 
and the excessive heat of the climate along the 
coast. We were mindful of the good providence 
of God that had shielded us hourly through the 
worst dangers we should brave. Grateful letters 
awaited us at the post office, and newspapers from 
home. After dinner our dragoman, muleteers 
and donkey boy came to my room to bid me fare- 
well and receive backsheesh. These fellows will . 
appear to be nearly heartbroken at parting with 
the traveller, but if disappointed in the quantity 
of backsheesh expected, will go off pouting and 
sometimes not even say good-bye at all. 

We had a written contract to the effect (speci- 
fied) that all backsheesh was to be paid by our 



199 



cicerone; nevertheless he, with all the rest, seemed 
to have lost sight of that, and wanted all possible 
perquisites. 

Next morning I went to see Mr. M. at the Hos- 
pital of the Knights of St. John, where he had' 
gone the day previous to our arrival, and though 
blessed with the best medical attention to be found 
anywhere, his convalescence was so slow as to 
require him to stay about two weeks. I remained 
with him four daj^s, and bade him adieu with a 
sad heart, for in the seven weeks in which we had 
been constantly together, our attachment for each 
other and dependence upon one another had 
grown to be like that of two brothers. Now our 
journey lay apart, and both were once more alone 
at the farthest point from home ; but we had 
learned to do these people very well, and all peo- 
ples, as to that, and I was saddest of all because I 
feared our separation would be final, because I 
regarded his sickness as dangerous and threaten- 
ing to prove fatal, and I thought of the wife and 
four children, just the number I had, ten thousand, 
miles across the seas and continents, and could 
not refrain from tears at thought of threatened 
tidings. 

The following is an extraet from a letter writ- 
ten since his return home: "After you left Beirut 
I had to remain about ten days, for Dr. Post 
would not let me go for a week after I was up and 
about the garden. Dr. Post told me he and Dr 



200 

Dight had a consultation every morning over my 
case, for they did not understand it; concluded it 
was malaria in the main. ..:... Well, 
it was a grand trip, was it not? Who could picture 
old Egypt as it is? Or ever get a just view of the 
Holy Land as we saw it ? Or imagine Pompeii or 
Rome ? It is all like a dream, but when I fix my 
thought on any one part of it, it becomes all clear 
as a picture.'' 

Beirut is a city of over one hundred thousand 
inhabitants, most of whom are Arabs and Turks, 
but there are many French, Germans, Greeks and 
Italians also, and some English. The English, 
French and Austrians each have a post office, as 
well as the Turks, and I believe the Italians as 
well. It is the principal seaport of Syria, and 
carries on a large wholesale trade with Damascus 
and the inland towns farther in the interior. 
There are several factories here making silk goods, 
soap, nargilehs, glass-goods, shoes, sandals, copper- 
ware and hard-ware generally. 

The city is taking on an European air to a con- 
siderable extent. I went one clay to Nahr-El-Kelb, 
(Dog River) which is a sight well worth the time 
and trouble to see. It flows from the Lebanon 
mountains and is cold. From this stream Beirut 
is supplied with drinking water, driven about six or 
seven miles- through pipes, by a steam engine. 
The Nahr-El-Kelb flows through a canon whose 
sides are nearly perpendicular and about five or 



201 

.six hundred feet high. The rock forming the sides 
of this canon is limestone and several places have 
been cut smooth for receiving inscriptions and 
reliefs, one of these, life size, represents Salmanezer, 
another Rameses the Great, cut in relief. There 
are also written inscriptions to Marcus Aurelius 
and Napoleon III., if I remember correctly. A 
stone bridge, centuries old, spans the stream about 
.a quarter of a mile from the beach ; over this bridge 
mules were carrying sugar cane on their backs, 
and I judged there was a sugar factory near by 
from the vast amounts hauled. Two large bundles 
weighing three or four hundred pounds are bal- 
anced on the mules' backs and they go without a 
driver to the proper destination. 

The highway is a continuation of the old Roman 
road, and is in good condition, being macadam- 
ized ; it passes through mulberry groves all the way. 

This entire population is christian, even for many 
miles in the interior. And so bigoted are they 
that they will not only not hear any other sect, 
but will not allow others to plant a school or 
church among them ; they are Catholics chiefly, 
some, however, belong to the Greek church. They 
are as violent as the Latins in their hostility to 
Protestantism. Dr. Jessup had a case in hand of a 
missionary at Sidon who had been arrested on the 
charge of murder ; everything was being done by 
the Catholics that could be to secure his execution. 
It was my privilege to contribute to a fund being 



202 



raised to secure his release. The wounds our Lord 
has received in the house of his friends have check- 
ed the onward march of his kingdom more than all 
infidelity, rationalism, agnosticism, and all other 
forms of skepticism together, and we are not as 
free from it in America as we ought to be. 

It was my privilege to visit the various institu- 
tions doing work directly for Christ in Beirut, and 
I copy from statistics and statements placed in my 
hands by our Missionaries a concise history and 
outline of their labors. 

The following is an extract from a letter written 
by myself to the Kaleigh Christian Advocate, 
from Beirut. 

I thought I would write you about the wonder- 
ful work of missions here in Beirut, but I have 
found to my hand a summary, by the dauntless 
Dr. Strong, to the correctness of which I wish to 
bear testimony. I had the pleasure of visiting 
their college for young men ; it is nearly, if I may 
not say, quite an ideal college. They have about 
two hundred pupils, who show real culture in man- 
ner and conversation. The College is well equip- 
ped, located and managed. I may say the same 
of Miss Thompson's school, except as to numbers, 
she has only about 50 or 60 I think. Their hos- 
pital is all one could desire, (as my companion 
was confined there, I visited him every day for 
four days.) They have a large printing establish- 
ment, through which I looked, and it keeps many 



203 



hands busy. I called on Dr. Van Ityck, who re- 
marked in answer to my interrogations regarding 
the history, present status and outlook of mis- 
sionary labors in Syria, and among the Moham- 
medans, that already there was crystallizing energy 
sufficient to cast a system or polity for local church 
government; although we were speaking only of 
the share each church should claim, this being an 
undenominational enterprise, or if all go to one 
church, what church that should be, yet the fact 
that they can take Syria in hand, is assuredly one 
of the most forcible demonstrations of what Mis- 
sions are accomplishing for the people, for whom 
Christ died. Dr. Strong says : 

" Beirut, in Syria, is called the "crown-jewel of 
modern missions." It was taken from the bed of 
Moslem degradation, cut and set by the deliberate 
planning of a handful of American Christians. As 
late as 1826, Beirut was a straggling, decaying 
Mohammedan town without so much as a carriage- 
way through it, a wheeled vehicle, or a pane of 
window-glassin it. The missionaries who came to 
it were persecuted by the authorities and mobbed 
by the populace. Some were driven to the Le- 
banons ; others fled to Malta. There they matured 
their plans, chimerical to all but the eye of faith. 
They projected Christian empire for Syria, not the 
gathering of a few converts. Schools, colleges, 
printing-houses, Western culture in science, art 
and religion, were all included in their plan. They 



204 



returned to Beirut bringing a hand-press* and a 
font of Arabic type. 

Night after night a light gleamed from a little 
tower above the mission building — a prophetic 
light seen out on the Mediterranean — where Eli 
Smith, and, after he was gone, the still living Dr. 
Van Dyck labored in translating the Bible into 
Arabic. When, in 1865, Dr. Van Dyck flung 
down the stairway the last sheet of " copy" to the 
compositor, it marked an era of importance to 
Syria and Asia Minor, to Egypt and Turkey, and 
all the scattered Arabic-speaking peoples, greater 
than any accession or deposition of Sultans and 
Khedives. There is nothing more eloquent than the 
face of the venerable translator, in which can be read 
the making of the grandest history of the Orient. 
The dream of the exiles has been accomplished- 
Beirut is to-day a Christian city, with more influ- 
ence upon the adjacent lands than had the Berytus 
of old, on whose ruins it has risen. Stately 
churches, hospitals, a female seminary, a college, 
whose graduates are scattered over Syria, Egypt 
and wherever the Arab roams ; a theological semi- 
nary, a common-school system, and three steam- 
presses, throwing off nearly a half-million pages of 
reading-matter a day; a Bible-house, whose pro- 
ducts are found in India, China, Ethiopia, and at 
the sources of the Nile ; these are the facets of that 
" crown jewel " which the missionaries have cut 
with their sanctified enterprise." 



205 



The following eloquent figures explain them- 
selves and need no words of praise from me : 

PLACES OF EVANGELICAL WORSHIP IN BEIRUT, 

Together with brief statistics of Evangelical Work in 
the city, and of the American Mission in Syria. 

I. 

WORSHIP AND PREACHING IN THE ENGLISH LAN- 
GUAGE. 

1. American Mission Church.— Rev. G. M. Mackie, 

of the Church of Scotland. 
Sunday, 11 a.m. Weekly Prayer Meeting, Wed- 

day, 3:30 p.m., in the Memorial Sunday School 

Hall. 
Communion Service-lst Sunday in Jan., March, 

May, July and Nov. 
Sunday School, Memorial Hall, 3:30 p.m. 

2. Church of England Service.— House of Rev. J. 
H. Worseley, Sunday, 11 a.m. 

3. Chapel of Syrian Protestant Church.— Every 
alternate Sunday, at 9 a.m., and at 7 p.m.; and 
Wednesday, at 7 p.m. 

4. British Syrian Schools. — Every Sunday, at 7p.m. 

II. 

WORSHIP AND PREACHING IN THE GERMAN AND 

FRENCH. 

1. Chapel of Prussian Deaconesses. — Rev. B. Pein r 
Pastor. Sunday, at 10 a.m. / 



206 



III. 

WORSHIP AND PREACHING IN ARABIC. 

1. American Mission Church. — Syrian Protestant 

Congregation. Rev. H. H. Jessup, D.D., Act- 
ing Pastor. Sunday, at 9 a.m. Arabic Sun- 
day School, in Memorial Hall, at 2 p.m., Oct. 
till June 1st, then at 5 p.m. 

Weekly Prayer and Praise Meeting, Wednesday, 
at 7:30 p.m. 

Sunday School Teachers' Meeting, Saturday, 7:30 
p.m. 

2. Syrian Protestant College. — Rev. D. Bliss, D.D., 
President. Every alternate Sunday, at 9 a.m., 
and at 7 p.m.; and Wednesday, at 7 p.m. 

3. Eastern Chapel. Hai Rumail. — Rev. J. S. Den- 
nis, D.D., Sunday, at 9 a.m. 

4. Musaitebeh Chapel.— Rev. W. W. Eddy, D.D.. 
Sunday, at 9 a.m. 

5. Orphan House of the Prussian Deaconesses, near 
Oriental Hotel. 

6. Hospital of the Knights of St. John. — Rev. Geo. 
E. Post, M.D., Sunday, at 4 p.m. 

7. Moslem School of Miss Taylor. — Service and 
Sunday School, at 2 p.m. 

8. Six Arabic Sunday Schools in different parts of 
the City, at 2 p.m. 

9. Six Classes during the week, in different quar- 
ters of the City, for Bible Instruction to Women. 



207 



IV. 

EVANGELICAL CHRISTIAN WORK AND EDUCATIONAL 
INSTITUTIONS. 

1 . American Presbyterian Mission, American Bible 
Society. British and Foreign Bible Society, 
London Religious Tract Society. — Office at the 
American Press and Bible House, adjoining the 
Church. 

2. Theological Seminary of the American Mission, 
Ras Beirut. 

3. Syrian Protestant College, Ras Beirut. 

4. AmericanFemale Seminary ,in re'ar of the Church 

5. British Syrian Schools — 1 Boarding School, Mu- 
saitebeh quarter, and 7 Day Schools. 

6. Church of Scotland Mission to the Jews, House 
of Rev. G. M. Mackie. 

7. Prussian Deaconesses' Orphan House and Board- 
ing School for Girls. 

8. Miss Taylor's St. George 'sMoslem School forGirls. 

9. Germai* Boys' School. 

10. Day School of Syrian Protestants in Eastern 
quarter, and three other day Schools of the Am- 
erican Mission for Boys and Girls. 

11. Blind Schools for Men and Women adjoining 
British Syrian Training Institution. 

V. 

THE PRESS. 

Rev. Samuel Jessup, Manager. 
Mr. W. R. Glockler, Supt. 



208 



The Arabic Press of the American Mission print- 
ed in 1885: 

Total pages 27,981,600 

Of which Scriptures - - - 17,378,600 
Vols, of Scriptures distributed during 1885 23,576 
Total No. of distinct books on the Press Cata- 
logue - - 368 

Total pages printed from the first - 311,742,044 
Catalogues of these publications, in the English 
and Arabic languages, can be obtained at the 
Press. 

The books published, besides Scriptures, are 
religious and educational books, theological, scien- 
tific, juvenile, historical, and miscellaneous books, 
prepared chiefly by the American Missionaries,, 
and the Professors of the Syrian Protestant College. 



VI. 

STATIONS OF THE AMERICAN PRESBYTERIAN MIS- 
SION IN SYRIA. 

1. Beirut.— Rev. C. V. A. Van Dyck, M.D., D.D.; 
Rev. W. W. Eddy, D.D.; Rev. H. H. Jessup,D.D.; 
Rev. J. S. Dennis, D.D.; Rev. S. Jessup, and: 
their wives. Miss E. D. Everett, Miss E. A, 
Thomson, Miss A. S. Barber, of the Female 
Seminary. 

Theological Seminary .—Instruction given by Mem- 
bers of Beirut Station. 

Syrian Protestant College. — Rev. D. Bliss, D.D., 



209 

President; Rev. J. Wortabet, M. D.; Rev. G. E. 
Post, M.A., M.D.; Rev. Harvey Porter, B.A.; 
Thos. M. Kay, M.D.; Charles F. Dight, M.D.; 
John C. Fisher, M.A., M.D.; Samuel P. Glover, 
M.D.; Robert H. West, M.A.; Frank E.Hoskins, 
B.A.; Louis F. Giroux, B.A.; Mr. Yuhanna Dak- 
hil, Sheikh Khalil Ul-Yazigil, Frank S. Wood- 
ruff, B.A.; Robert H. Beattie, B.A.; Henry M. 
Hulbert, M.A.; Yusuf Aftimus, B.A.; DaudSalim,., 
B.A.; Mr. Francis Richa. 

Medical Students 31 

Collegiate Department - 61 

Preparatory Department 75 

Total ... 167 

Total Pupils in American Mission Schools 

in Syria 5,665 

Of whom Girls 3,736 

Total Number Members in Syrian Native 

Churches 1,301 

Sabbath School Scholars --. - - 3,804 
Contributions of Native Churches - - $6,451 

2. Abeih and Suk el Ghurb. — Rev. Wm. Bird, and 
wife ; Miss Emily Bird, Rev. T. S. Pond, and 
wife. 

3. Sidon— Rev. W. K. Eddy, and wife; Rev. Geo. 
A. Ford. 

Female Seminary .—Miss H. M. Eddy, Miss R. 
Brown, Miss C. Brown. 

4. Tripoli. — Rev. 0. J. Hardin, and wife ; Rev. F. 



210 



W. March, and wife; Ira Harris, M.D., and wife. 
Female Seminary. — Miss H. La Grange, Miss 
M. C. Holmes. 

5. Zahleh.— Rev. G. F. Dale, Jr.; Rev. W. M. 
Greenlee, and their wives. 

6. Total American Missionaries, Men 14 



Women 24 r 



Native Pastors - - - - 3~) 

Total Native Syrian Preachers - - 35 >• 189 
Teachers and others - - - 151 ) 



212 



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CHAPTER XXIII. 



THE LAND, THE PEOPLE, THE MAN. 



The Call of Abraham the Beginning of God's Purpose 
to Develop the Race. National Peculiarities of the 
Hebrews : 1. They have Faith. 2. Domestic Affec- 
tion. 3. Sentimental, the " Holy Land." 4 Conser- 
vative, old Pentateuch, old Customs, Samaritans. 5. 
The Hebrew impressed his Religion on others. Ex- 
amples. — In debt to the Jew. — Smallest and Greatest. 
Final Product. — Strength made perfect in Weakneess. 

WHEN we consider the geographical posi- 
tion of Palestine, the topography, cli- 
mate, and vegetable productions of the country and 
the 1 peculiar history and characteristics of the He- 
brew people, we see a remarkable fitness in the 
land and the people to entitle, them to that choice 
made by God, in using them to carry out his pur- 
pose concerning the race of mankind, in their de- 
velopment. Geikie says the land is peculiarly 
adapted to qualify its inhabitants to write a book 
for all men, on account of the cosmopolitan char- 
acter of its vegetable growth. 

But what is still more significant is the charac- 
ter of the Israelites. The call of Abraham from 
Ur of the Chaldees has no counterpart in the his- 
tory of any other family. The announcements 
made to him, from time to time, were new, mys- 



217 



terious, wonderful, and as far removed from him 
in their ultimate designs as the steamer that car- 
ries the international mails is from the secrets that 
slumber in its mammoth hold. 

Palestine has been on the highway of the na- 
tions from time immemorial. Asia Minor, Assyria, 
Persia and all the north and east passed that way 
to Egypt, Abyssinia, Ethiopia and all places in 
Africa and vice versa, whether their mission was 
one of war, commerce or emigration, thus making 
it one of the strategic points most valuable in im- 
pinging against the citizenship of the world. The 
characteristics of Abraham and his posterity were 
such as God wished to be adopted universally. 

1. In the first place Abraham had faith in God. He 
believed God meant well towards man . that all 
he did. was for man's good; that he had a great 
concern for man. He believed this with such an 
intensity that he was ready to co-operate with 
God in any plan, to undertake any task imposed 
upon him by God, so that he obtained the honorable 
titles " Friend of God," " Father of the Faithful." 

This same peculiarity is exhibited in his chil- 
dren, Isaac, Jacob, Joseph, and others whose names 
are recorded in Hebrews xi. 

2. Domestic Affection is peculiar to the Hebrews. 
While God has given parental love to the lower 
animals even, it is a remarkable fact that fallen 
human nature descends below the brute world in 
many respects ; and the nations of the east show 



218 



an aversion to their children, especially female 
children, that is not paralleled among the lower ani- 
mals, so far as I know. At this time, there are 
places where a little money would purchase a car 
load of children from their parents, and many 
female babes are strangled at birth. Bui the Is- 
raelites loved their children. Witness Jacob when 
he thought Joseph torn by wild beasts, and when 
Benjamin was required ere they could obtain more 
bread. "All these things are against one," said 
he, "you will bring down my gray hairs with 
sorrow to the grave," or Joseph when he saw Ben- 
jamin — Gen. 45 — or David weeping over a would- 
be parricide, until his heart seemed broken. 

3. They were a very sentimental people, and 
carried their sentiment into their religion. Other 
nations built temples in honor of their gods and 
sacrificed in them, and feared and revered their 
divinities, but no where is it said they loved them. 
Their worship was of the head — it never reached 
their hearts. Hebrews had conceptions of a 
being with sentiment Jacob wrestled and agon- 
ized in prayer until he prevailed. David said, 
"my heart and my flesh crieth out for the living 
God." And their sentimental nature is seen to- 
day by the way they repair weekly to the outside 
of the Sanctuary wall, and weep as near the site 
of their once glorious temple as possible, and the 
further fact that every Jew buried in foreign 
lands wishes the "holy sand," or some of Pales- 



219 



tine's soil sprinkled upon his grave, and the Tal- 
mud says they think that in some mysterious 
manner the pious dead will make their way under 
ground to Mt. Olivet, just above Jehoshophat and 
appear on the ground at the resurrection. 

4. The Jew was conservative. This fitted him 
for receiving the sacred oracles, the written and 
oral law. No better evidence need be adduced 
than the facts that they have kept the Pentateuch 
intact, or not materially altered through the great- 
est imaginable vicissitudes, and the rising and 
falling of empires, the birth and death of many 
nations, the extremes of climate, exaltation and 
persecution . such as no other people has known; 
all have been too weak to more than barely 
modify the habits of this people. The Samari- 
tans, of Jewish origin partly, (a remnant of about 
two hundred remain at Sychar,) still retain a 
Pentateuch manuscript said to be twenty -six 
hundred years old, and it is about the same as 
ours, and they still worship in the mountains of 
Gerizim, as the woman of Sychar said to Jesus, 
and as they were directed by Moses — Exodus 12. 

5. Once more, the Hebrew was aggressive, or 
rather had the faculty of impressing Jris faith 
upon other people, as Joseph in Egypt, whom we 
cannot think of having a higher office at first than 
that of a donkey-boy, yet he made such progress as 
to stand beside Pharoah, all the time taking care 
of his religion, and saying that it was in conse- 



220 



quence of his'God that he did well. He preach- 
ed God the good to the King, and with success. 

Daniel, a captive lad, did the same, became 
prime minister to four or five of the world's 
greatest monarchs, and made Nebuchadnezzar say 
there is no God but Daniel's God. "Now I, Ne- 
buchadnezzar, praise and extol and honor the 
King of heaven, all whose works are truth, and 
His ways judgment; and those that walk in pride 
He is able to abase." 

Likewise did Esther and Mordecai and Ezra and 
Nehemiah. 

Endowed thus, with powers and peculiarities 
on which to base individual and national pros- 
perity and development, God put this nation 
in contact with the people of the earth at oppor- 
tune times and in wise ways, making such occasions 
reciprocally serviceable, mutually elevating, de- 
veloping and diffusing light and knowledge until 
other nations, besides, might be put in charge of 
the mission which only one at first could undertake. 

We owe the Jew a debt. We obtained from 
him what is best in us, at least the germs of it; if 
not the nature, a knowledge of the first principles. 
We believe for his excellence he was chosen. His 
excellent qualities were made prominent by the 
favor of God, and his testimony is not nearly at 
an end. Let him be kindly considered for as 
George Eliot has said, " The well being of Israel is 
the well being of the church." 



221 



Traveling the length and breadth of this land, 
if there has been any change whatever in my re- 
ligious views it has been to intensify my faith in 
the inspiration of Scripture, and the divinity of 
Jesus Christ. When we consider the narrow 
limits of Palestine, the arduous toil necessary to 
production, and no resources whatever besides 
those of agriculture, and the feeding of flocks ; 
and when we consider that the Canaanites and 
other tribes filled the country and occupied cities 
with high walls, and that a nation which had for 
centuries been in bondage, and showed its capacity 
and disposition for war in the conduct of ten of 
the twelve spies sent to investigate, and the con- 
duct of the camp on hearing their report ; when 
we consider too, little time was occupied in taking 
enough land for their use and cities enough for 
their comfortable dwelling ; and when we read 
the law guaranteeing peace and prosperity, and 
the conditions forfeiting the divine favor in Deut. 
28, etc., and study the history of the Jews, we see 
a proof of the divine hand all through. 

When we consider again, these narrow limits 
and contrast the products of this shepherd peo- 
ple in the world of thought and morals, with the 
productions of surrounding nations, the conclu- 
sion is they were under the divine guidance. 
There is the Ganges, the Euphrates, both flowing 
through lands of incalculable wealth. There are 
Egypt and the Nile. There are Greece, Rome, and 



222 



all the rest. They have given Ninevah, Babylon, 
Thebes with " hundred gates," Cheops, the Acro- 
polis, Parthenon and Colosseum. They have 
given us warriors, statesmen, historians, poets, 
painters, sculptors, etc.. etc., showing that there 
was not an indigenous genius here, for all other 
lands have equalled this in ordinary and extraor- 
dinary talent. But this little section has done 
more than any other one, or all others, to shape 
the world's morals aright. The Philosophers have 
all had a sameness about their sayings and doings, 
but the heroes of Scripture have had uncommon 
and unique experiences. 

Abraham, Job, Moses, David, Elijah and Daniel 
were not as the other great men of earth. They 
were in many respects similar to one another ; but 
unlike the heroes of poetry, history and biography 
of other lands. 

Abraham, Isaac and Jacob stand out alone be- 
fore the world as moral pioneers, marking a high- 
way of faith and obedience, not yet improved 
upon, and in studying these men, we must do so 
as being without the written word and examples 
since recorded. " These all died in the faith, not 
having received the promises, but having seen 
them afar off, and were persuaded of them, and 
embraced them." 

But once more; when we remember that this 
people, with such noble sires, proved unworthy 
sons, lost their liberty and became subject to pagan 



masters, from one of the meanest of their towns, 
of the poorest parents, gave to the world a man of 
pure lips, of pure habits, of infinite knowledge 
and wisdom, totally unselfish amidst the most 
selfish, possessed of a power defiant of armies, of 
accumulated ecclesiastical and traditional energy, 
of wealth or other power, going about doing good 
gratuitously, laying his hand upon storms, devils 
and diseases, determining their limit and power; 
and choosing the most ignoble men to take up and 
carry forward his work where he left it off, until it 
should fill the earth ; who put greater premium on 
suffering as a means to secure adherents than on 
temporal gratifications; in fact, a man doing all 
things in a manner different from all other men, 
against all men's natural propensities, yet making 
them say a he hath done all things well;" when 
we study his life in his land, his time and his 
people, when we consider how unfavorable his 
antecedents, and his environments from every 
standpoint, and the sublimity, purity, simplicity 
and universal sweep of his teachings, and that his 
biographer said "the common (!) people heard 
him gladly," and who himself said for eternal 
record, " If a man compel thee to go a mile with 
Mm, go with him two," and " if he sue thee at the 
law and take away thy cloak, let him have thy 
coat also" — a man who, without reading history, 
political or moral science, yet announced instinc- 
tively the foundation principles on which alone 



224 



pure and substantial, civil and social institutions- 
can permanently be based. His foundations need 
not to be widened, nor narrowed, and " other 
foundation can no man lay." " Heaven and earth 
shall pass away, but my word shall not pass away ;"' 
when we consider all these things and stand before 
this cosmopolitan character speaking to every 
nation and every man, whose words need no alter- 
ing forever, but only to be obeyed, we bow down 
before him and say with Nicodemus, " Thou art a 
teacher come from God," and with the centurion,. 
" surely this man was the son of God," and with 
Peter, who knew him best of all, " Thou art the; 
Christ of God." 



CHAPTER XXIV. 



AMONG THE GRECIAN ISLES. 



Beirut to Cyprus, Copper Island.— General Cesnola — 
Lazarus' Grave.— Venus' Birthplace.— How they em- 
ploy Criminals.— Some Criminals not apprehended — 
Rhodes.— Cos, Birthplace of Hippocrates and Apel- 
les— Halicarnassus, where was one of the "Seven 
Wonders."— Leros— Patmos.— Chios. 

"Where burning Sappho loved and sung— 
"Where Venus rose and Phoebus sprung," 
We sailed, the Grecian Isles among. 

ON account of cargo, we were delayed thirty 
hours at Beirut, and it is dark ere the rat- 
tle of loading machinery ceases, and the thud of 
the propeller begins. All night we go one hundred 
and fifty six miles over a rough sea ere we reach 
Cyprus, our first landing place. As we stay here 
four hours, there is an opportunity and a proposi- 
tion to go ashore. We are half a mile from Lar- 
naka, the principal town of the island, and land 
in small row boats. Cyprus derives its name 
from Kupros, a plant that grows here and makes a 
reddish and yellowish dye, with which the women 
throughout the East color their nails. Once the 
island was covered with forests, but these have all 
disappeared. Once large copper mines were 



226 



worked, and from Homer to Alexander and later, 
they excelled in the manufacture of brazen armor. 
It is said the metal copper derives its name from 
Aes Cuprium — shortened to copper. 

The King of Larnaka, called Chittim in the 
Scriptures — presented Alexander the Great with 
a sword, so we are told by the historians. Cy- 
prus produces wheat, barley, cotton, silk, mad- 
der, oil, wine, caroobs (the husks of the prod- 
igal son) and salt. But locusts are said to eat 
up and destroy nearly half the products of the 
farmer commonly. 

General di Cesnola, who was consul here for 
several years, made very important discoveries at 
many of the ancient city sites, all of Which are 
fully detailed in his book. We saw one place 
which he had honey-combed, finding only an an- 
cient cistern containing a few relics of a remote age. 

About the only thing worth visiting at Larnaka 
is the Church of St. Lazarus, (Greek.) You are 
shown the spot where he died, after coming from 
Palestine, and where he is buried (?) There is a 
painting of him in the church, also of his resur- 
rection, in which a bystander is holding his nose 
to shut out the scent of the corpse. Our young 
readers of Mythology will remember that it was 
here that the goddess Venus rose from the foam of 
the sea, and a yearly festival is still held here, in 
which all go out on the water in boats ; it is be- 
lieved to be on the anniversary of Venus' birth from 



227 
\ 

the sea, and so celebrated. Anciently young men 
specially sought wives on these festival occasions, 
no doubt many do still. 

Ezek. 27 : 6 represents these islands as making box 
and cedar wood fabrics inlaid with ivory. They have 
maintained this habit to the present time, although 
ivory has given place to mother of pearl, which is 
probably meant by the prophet, for when we 
reached Rhodes, the next point at which we an- 
chored, the natives came on board with large bas- 
kets full ol boxes for tobacco, matches, card cases, 
etc., with books and birds, and canes of olive and 
lemon wood, some of them containing at least 
fifty pieces of mother of pearl, manufactured by 
the state prisoners, and selling very cheap. 

We all bought several articles apiece. The most 
popular article of any seemed to be a bird. It 
was made so that the wings open and shut on 
hinges and the back with the wings open on an- 
other hinge, showing a jewel case in the body. 
As they hurried from the boat one of these birds 
was dropped from the basket in which they were 
carried. I and a Greek Priest were the first parties 
on deck next morning, and he found it. I told 
him that the Captain would take it back to the 
owners when the vessel returned and it should be 
sent back to them. The thought of such a thing 
seemed strange to him. He said such things were 
never done thereabouts; and I judge he spake 
truly if he did not act honestly. 



228 



Very anciently there was a high state of civili- 
zation among the Rhodians, and they were very 
powerful in commerce and on the seas, and Strabo 
tells us that the city of Rhodes was more magnifi- 
cent than either Rome or Alexandria, both of which 
he had visited. Rhodes (the island) furnished 
three of the cities that formed the Dorian Hexa- 
polis. These three afterwards united to make the 
city of Rhodes, B. C. 409. The architect was Hip- 
podannes of Miletus. 184 years later they erected 
the statue of Apollo which stood little over half a 
century, as one of the seven wonders of the world. 
The Romans drew largely on their codes of civil 
laws, which were in advance of those of other 
contemporaneous nations. 

They were engaged in many of the wars that 
were waged on the various coasts of the Mediter- 
ranean. They very bravely fought to maintain 
their independence against the European masters 
from Greece and Italy. They submitted however 
to Alexander, but renounced the domination of his 
successors. It is painful now to see the degener- 
ate race that occupy, where once large wealth and 
learning were common ; now there is a proscrip- 
tion on even the effort to learn to read; scarcely 
five per cent of the people can write their names, 
nor is it vastly better in most of these classic 
islands. I might relate sad tales of fire and blood- 
shed in the history of several of the group form- 



229 



ing the Grecian Archipelago, but the school boy 
can find them all in his 'history. 

The next day, after leaving Rhodes, we came 
fairly into the Grecian Archipelago. From the deck 
one sees islands rise from the .water, seeming to 
shut us in on all sides, now one rises suddenly 
from the sea and projects several hundred feet into 
the air; some rise into lofty mountains, one or two 
of which were covered on top with snow, while 
others stretch far away into undulating hills and 
plains. At sunrise we sight Kos, or Cos, far ahead ; 
it seems that we will leave it to the right, when the 
ship turns North, and we leave it to the left. Ev- 
erybody wishes to see all they can of Kos, and are 
^above, with glasses, taking in that part nearest the 
ship. Here Hippocrates was born, the great medi- 
cal man, and some claim Apelles, the famous artist/ 
who painted a portrait of Alexander the great, who 
would not suffer it done by any other artist. Kos, 
the capital, is a j>retty seaport town. 

Then, soon we. come to Halicarnassus, the birth 
place of the great historian, Herodotus, of Diony- 
sius, and Heraclitus, the poet, the principal city of 
the island of Caria. It was here that Artemesia, 
the Queen, built the famous Mausoleum over her 
husband, Mausolus, that rankecl as one of the 
seven wonders of the world. It was far off our 
line and we could only see it through glasses. 

We next land at Leros, a town of 3,000 inhab- 
itants, built in and on the steep sides of a ravine. 



230 



From the sea back the houses rise like stairsteps. 
On one hill top, overhanging the city, are the re- 
mains of the old fortress, besieged so long in vain 
by the Turks; on another are about half a dozen 
windmills with giant-like arms, which look very 
lazy to one accustomed to seeing everything done 
by steam power. We pass Patmos without stop- 
ping. Of course there was universal regret that 
we must be content with merely looking from the 
ship's deck, instead of traversing from side to 
side, and gathering at least a flower or a stone as 
a memento of a visit to the one island of all the 
seas most sacred by its associations to every Chris- 
tian; but anxious as we were to stop, and glad as 
we would have been to linger, it was different 
with those who managed the ship. 

About sunset we passed Scio, one of the many 
places that claim to be the birth place of Homer. 

"Seven cities boast the birth of Homer dead, 
Through which the living Horner begged his bread!" 

We pass many steamers and sail boats in these 
waters, indicating a vast amount of commerce. I 
have often wondered how ships could sail so much 
among these islands without shipwreck. The 
seas are deep to' the very shores, however. They 
have erected light-houses where the danger is 
greatest, and lie to when it is very dark. Notwith- 
standing all this the wonder of sailor's skill and 
good judgment and great success does not cease. 



231 

And we lie down to sleep, feeling secure in their 
hands under the merciful protection of the Father 
of us all. We awake in the beautiful harbor of 
Smyrna. 



CHAPTER XXV. 



SMYRNA AND EPHESUS 



Turkish Custom-house Officers. — A Pretty City. — Markets 
•and Bazaars.-A Heterogeneous Mass. — Protestantism 

Missions.- -Panorama from Mt. Pagus. — Home of the 

Muses. 
Ephesus. — Gates, Via Sacra. — Gymnasiums, Agorae. — 

Theaters. — Stadium. — Baptismal Font of St. Paul's 

time or soon afterwards. — " Diana of the Ephesian's" 

Temple. — Scene of Paul's Labors. 

WE landed at Smyrna on Sunday morning, 
and as usual had the Turkish Custom- 
house Officers to pry into every little parcel in our 
baggage; this may commonly be avoided, however, 
by giving them backsheesh. If time is precious, or 
one has doubtful articles, liable to duty, or does 
not care to have a rough march through one's 
luggage, it pays to end the matter by giving a 
franc. If on the contrary one has plenty of time, 
nothing liable to duty, and wishes to see what a 
Turk can do in the matter if impudence and dis- 
regard for others property or feelings, when he has 
opportunity, one only has to give up his baggage 
and seem not to understand that he should pay 
any "thank money," and the officer will show 
him pretty soon. Smyrna has a population of 



233 

.200,000 to 300,000, and with its suburbs extends 
ten or twelve miles around the bay. 

It has the prettiest quay I have seen anywhere, 
and a row of buildings for two miles facing the 
sea, that for elegance would adorn any city. They 
are mainly coffee houses, (Turks have no bar- 
rooms except for " infidels ") with dwellings over- 
head, offices, hotels, and private mansions. The 
street, 100 fee't wide and 3 feet above the water, 
inclines towards the bay just enough to carry off 
the rain, and is traversed the whole distance by a 
tram way -track, at the end of which is the railway 
to Aidin. Across the bay steam yachts or ferry- 
boats go flying every few minutes laden with pas- 
sengers to and from some suburb, while a score of 
steamers of all the European nations load and 
unload their cargoes. It would be well not to 
leave the quay, for very little else is so charming ; 
all the other streets are narrow and mostly very 
filthy. I remember to have seen dead dogs and 
cats and rats which were removed only by the 
slow process of evaporation. Nor were these sights 
the worst. I went through their fish market. It 
is a study for the Zoologist — shell fish, slick fish, 
scaly fish, red fish, black fish, etc., etc. When 
there, it would appear that there was nothing in 
town but fish. It is largely so in the vegetable 
quarter. Then in the bazaars, all covered over 
with an arch-way, and divided up into stalls much 
like a livery stable, in each of which a Turk sits 



234 



cross-legged and very rarely solicits a customer to 
buy ; these also have sections for certain kinds of 
goods, each consisting of many stores, calico mer- 
chants, silk merchants, tobacco nargeleh (or pipe) 
merchants, etc., with some good French and Jew 
stores. 

The population is heterogeneous, consisting of 
Turks, Greeks, French, British, Jews, etc. The 
Greeks are very much like the Jews in appearance. 
The houses which are jammed together too close 
to allow of a yard or garden, or even a street wide 
enough for a vehicle, often are supplied on the 
upper or second story with a projecting balcony 
or box with glass windows on all sides. In these 
the ladies sit to witness life on the streets below. 

I attended services at the English Church on 
Sunday, and at the Sailors' Bethel, called "Smyr- 
na Rest," Monday night, when Dr. Buckley 
preached, and I gave an exhortation and prayer. 

Protestantism meets with the most violent op- 
position here, both from the Greeks and Mahom- 
etans. The American mission, however, has a 
good church and two good schools. I met our mis- 
sionary, who is rather an aged man ; he was hope- 
ful of final results. One good thing in Smyrna 
attracted our notice — their observance of the 
Sabbath day. All shops were shut except restau- 
rants and cafes. We also saw a policeman arrest 
a vender of green fruit (almonds I believe) as if 
they had some regard for the healthof the people. 



235 



The English Church has in large letters above 
the altar the following: 

u Be thou faithful unto death and I will give thee 
a crown of life." — Rev. 2:10. 

Smyrna, site of one of the seven churches still 
shown , is a very ancient city, though many think 
the site of the original city some miles away. The 
present one was built or rebuilt by the order of 
Alexander the Great, in consequence of a vision 
he had on Mt. Pagus, by Antigones and Lysima- 
chus, after his death. I went up on Mt. Pagus for 
the view. In ascending we passed the tomb of 
Polycarp. On the summit or acropolis is an old 
fort in a fair state of preservation, though not 
dating prior to mediaeval times. We are now about 
500 or 600 feet above the sea and behold a splendid 
panorama. The quiet city at our feet, beyond the 
bay with every variety of boats from the trim caik 
to the great ocean-going iron-clad, and far and near 
many a suburban village nestled between the 
mountains and the sea. Farther out are the islands 
of the Grecian Archipelago. Just here, on the 
mountain side, is the old theater, its proscenium 
all torn away to build garden walls, or pave the 
streets, and the shape, but dimly discernible,, 
where 2,000 years ago the tragedies of Sophocles,, 
and Comedies of Aristophanes delighted the airy 
minds of the Greek populace. We look towards 
the interior; how splendid ! There is the caravan 
bridge, and the cemeteries above which wave 



236 



graceful cypresses; there are the country roads 
winding their tortuous way for many a mile until 
lost behind the hills, and the railways with several 
trains hurrying on with western ideas for this slug- 
gish people; in the background are the many 
mountains where Nymphs and Goddesses were 
born, and the spirits of poesy and song emanated 
to immortalize their favorite offspring. It seemed 
-as if there lingered still the enchantment known 
to nature's sons. I descended to go to Ephesus, 
that I might see more of this inexhaustible and 
lovely country, so miserably managed under Mos- 
leum rule. 

Our Consul said it would be only a waste of 
time and money to go to Ephesus, that all who 
went came back disappointed ; but some people 
have a way of their own ; such composed our party. 
At the station I met Rev. Dr. Mills, President of 
Earlham College. We two -failed to telegraph for 
horses, which Drs. Buckley and Bancroft and 
Bishop Fowler were careful to do. But we were 
well, while several of their party were not. 

The site of Ephesus is half a mile to a mile and 
a half from Ayasolook, the railway station, and 
about fifty miles from Smyrna. It lay on all sides 
of the small mountain, Prion, and at the foot of a 
larger one, Mt. Coressus, separated by a valley 
about 500 feet wide. In this valley, and on the 
side of Prion next to Coressus, south, was one of 
their gymnasiums, the walls of which are still in 



237 



situ, and near the gymnasium the Magnesian gate,. 
through which on May 25th of each year proces- 
sions bearing the image of Artemis came from the 
Temple of Diana along the Via Sacra, and at which 
they were met by Ephebi, or young men of the 
city, and so were led to the theater, and afterwards 
to the Corresian gate, whence they returned to the 
Temple, having passed through the main streets 
of the city, and entirely around Mt. Prion. Going 
south from the Magnesia gate we pass the Basilica,, 
of Roman production, the agora, or wool market, 
the Odeon, or Lyric theater. 

This is built on the south side of Prion, the 
natural incline of the hill serving for the elevation 
of the seats. The front is 153 feet in diameter,, 
and it is estimated to have had a seating capacity 
of about 2300. Wood, who exhumed the buried 
city, found here the statue of Lucius Varus, now 
in the British Museum, and a life-size statue of the 
muse Erato, with a 7-stringed lyre and a pedestal 
at her side. All the interior of the Odeon was 
white marble, vast amounts of which are scatter- 
ed all around ; the door posts and many seats 
are still in their original position. A little farther 
on towards the south we passed another market 
place, and still farther on the west side of the 
mountain is the great Theater, which is of so much 
interest because of its connection with the history 
of St. Paul. We walked about through the vast 
but wasted place, and while we endeavored to 



238 



recall in imagination the ancient splendor of the 
pile, and the excited people, who "rushed with 
one accord into the Theater." I took out my Bible 
and read the account of the excitement in the 
19th chapter of Acts. 

This theater is in the shape of a horse-shoe, and 
is 495 feet by 467 feet through the two greatest 
diameters.. It is variously estimated tohave held 
from 25,00*) to 60,000 people. Like the Odeon, it is 
also on the hill side. The front and gates were of 
marble, carved into figures of exquisite beauty. 
This was repaired after the temple had been de- 
stroyed, as shown by many decrees passed and 
carved on the stones of the building, one of which 
gives citizenship to Agathocles in consequence of 
his giving the city 14,000 measures of corn. One 
is a decree of Hadrian, A. D. 120, etc. 

Evidenily this theater, or some similar one, 
suggested the idea of the Colosseum to Vespasian. 
In front of the theater are the Agora and the 
great gymnasium, while a few miles west we look 
out upon the sea. On the north side of Prion is 
the Stadium of the Augustinian age, where Ben 
Hur, Alclebaran, Atair, Antares and Rigel made 
themselves to be sung by the women and chil- 
dren in the tents, because of victory over the 
insolent Roman. We try to find the seat where 
poor Simonides and Esther sat to look upon 
the exciting scene. We try to fix the place where 
the unfortunate Messala was crushed to the wall, 



239 



and fill the great area, nearly one thousand feet 
long, with excited spectators.* 

The west end was adorned by an opencolumni- 
ated screen in tiers. The bases of some of the 
supporting columns are still to be seen. In front 
■of the Stadium, to the west, is the Serapion, where 
offerings were made to Serapis. It is elevated 
about fifty feet above the race course of the Stadi- 
um and covers about two hundred and fifty 
square feet ; in the center is a rock cut foundation 
containing an altar, reached by four flights of steps 
and three piers for columns between each flight. 
We saw on the way here a baptismal font of mar- 
ble belonging tcfone of the Christian churches that 
used to be here, which when full of water con- 
tained only nine inches, showing that the Ephe- 
sian Church did not immerse. Near by is shown 
the tomb of St. Luke. 

Passing out by where once stood the Corresian 

gate, a little north of the Stadium, the principal 

street led to the Temple of Diana or Artemis about 

one mile north of Prion. On the east of Prion is 

the cave of the Seven Sleepers and many Christian 

tombs. We now cross the fertile plain and the 

Cayster, formerly much larger than at present, and 

come upon the site of one of the seven wonders 

of the world, until within the last two decades 

concealed from human eyes by twenty feet of silt- 

*We could not remember whether the race was run here or at 
Antioch when writing the above. It was at the latter place, how- 
ever. 



240 



ings, the world renowned Temple of Diana ; the 
platform covered eight acres, and rested on a bed 
of charcoal between two layers of mortar. This 
served the double purpose of diminishing mois- 
ture about the base and destruction by earthquakes. 
This Temple was many times destroyed and re- 
built, always upon the same foundation. The last 
but one was burned by Herostratus, who had 
despaired of making a great name by fair means, 
and thought to immortalize himself as an icono- 
clast. 

The city fell into the hands of Alexander the 
Great before the last temple was finished. He 
offered to complete it at his own expense if the 
Ephesian City Magnates would allow his picture 
to be placed in it, but the}^ refused by the flatter- 
ing but evasive reply that it was not fitting that 
one God should pay homage to another. We give- 
some of the dimensions of this wonderful struc- 
ture. On the lowest step it measured 418 ft. by 
239 ft. 4i in. The pavement of the peristyle was 
9J ft. above the street and reached by 14 steps, 19 
inches wide in the tread. The temple itself was 
342 ft. 6* in. by 163 ft. 9.1 in. and was octastyle, 
i. e. with 8 columns in front, and dipteral, i. e. two 
rows of columns on the sides. These were in rows 
of 20 each, one hundred columns in all (27 of 
them gifts of Kings) of the improved Ionic order, 
measuring 6 ft. i in. at the base and 8 I diameters 
in height, making them, base, oapital and all about 



241 



60 feet high. We saw great quantities of the ruins 
of these columns scattered about. The parts of 
the Temple were called Pronaos, or porch in front, 
the vestibule, cella, or large chamber, at the end 
of which was the altar for sacrifices, beyond the 
altar was the statue of the goddess, then a room 
called Opisthodomos, and the Posticum or porch 
on the rear, corresponding to the Pronaos, on the 
front. Some of these temples that we have visited 
are very suggestive of the human nature of the 
deities inhabiting them, notably that of Denderah. 
But not so this. The whole was covered with 
marble slabs, except the space above the altar and 
image.. The whole was of white marble. 

The Goths set fire to this last temple A. D. 262,.. 
and the world's great centers have gone on chang- 
ing from place to place, until Ephesus once so 
magnificent, has so well nigh perished as to be 
almost forgotten. Once Antony and Cleopatra 
lived here, once Alexander begged in vain for hon- 
ors it might give, once here was the image that 
" all Asia and the world worshippeth " enthroned 
in " marble halls. " Here Paul fought with beasts, 
because of the advantage he should gain by the 
resurrection. Here was one of the seven churches 
to whom John was commissioned to write and say : 
" I know thy w 7 orks and thy labor and thy pa- 
tience, nevertheless I have somewhat against thee, 
because thou hast left thy first love." 

Here was that band of brethren, whom Paul 



242 



"ceased not to warn day and night with tears, by 
the space of three years," and to whom he after- 
wards wrote from Rome by Tychicus, his epistle, 
so full of encouragement, solicitous exhortation 
and prayer. 

Alas, that all this greatness should perish — that 
these splendid monuments now should be inhab- 
ited only by bats, jackals and serpents — that these 
columns and gates should be put into mean and 
useless fences; yet so it is. Still farther to the 
north is an old Castle, built b}^ the Knights of St. 
John in the 14th and 15th centuries. Here is also 
.a Mohammetan mosque, into which much of the 
material of the temple was worked. On this side 
also are left standing a few of the pillars of the 
ancient aqueduct that supplied the city with wa- 
ter. On the tops of these, about 40 feet high, the 
storks build and rear their young. They were 
very numerous during our visit, and as tame as 
chickens. 

It was our good fortune to have the best guide 
procurable — Mr. Mills and I — one who was with 
Mr. Wood in his excavations, 1863-1869, and knew 
everything well. Quite satisfied with our visit, at 
4 p. m. we took the cars for Smyrna. The scenery 
was very fine. To the north was Mt. Tmolus, covered 
with snow, and on both sides smaller members of 
the range covered with bright angelicas, and the 
low shrubbery with bursting buds and springing 
grasses. In one of these hills the ancients say 



243 

Artemis was born, but we did not visit her birth- 
place. 

We ran upon a herd of several hundred horses 
grazing, but they are fearless of the locomotive. 
We passed many fellahs plowing with the same kind 
of plows used thousands of years ago. However, 
they break the land well, about one-eighth of an 
acre per day. To-morrow we shall bid adieu to 
Asia and sail for Greece. 

The question is often asked: v 'If Christianity is 
destined to predominate, why have Mussulmen 
sway in the countries where once Paul preached 
and Christian churches stood, which have gone to 
decay?" It may be said, in reply, that the religion 
of the Moslem is nearer to the Jruth than either 
the. ancient Greek or Roman paganism which pre- 
vailed in these countries referred to, and the true 
religion has more protection now in those places 
than it then had. Besides, the aggressive force of 
Christianity has been expended mother directions 
rather than at those places where it began to man- 
ifest itself. Perhaps few if any of those places 
have grown worse since Paul's day. Many of 
them have grown better. It is true, as Carlisle 
says in his Hero-worship: The good of the old is 
retained until it is absolved and recast in the new. 



CHAPTER XXYI. 



FROM ASIA TO GREECE. 



Minerva Sunium. — Piraeus. Athens. — First Impressions, 
Among Ruins, Prison of Socrates. Acropolis, The- 
seum, Mars Hill. Vandalism.— Center of the World. 
— Enchanted Ground, Dishonored Shrine. — King of 
Greece. — Pedagogues still Peripatetic. 

" Slow sinks, more lovely ere his race be run, 
Behind Morea's hills, the setting sun." 

— Byron. 

"T ~X JT E left Smyrna for Athens on a stormy 
V V sea, that grew more boisterous every 
mile we advanced, and only three of our number 
were comfortable on deck, of whom I was one, 
and proud to think myself able to defy, at last, 
the Mediterranean's worst. We pass on the route 
the temple of Minerva Sunium situated on a high, 
rocky promontory overlooking the sea. Out of 
sight of human dwellings, it is a magnificent ruin 
standing, like "the lone Indian," a sentinel over 
the land whose gloiy has departed, and the seas 
where that glory was largely won. 

At 11 A. M., we reached Piraeus, the seaport of 
Athens, a city of 50,000 inhabitants, and having 
an excellent harbor filled with the crafts of all 
nations. Four miles to the northeast is Athens 



245 



with 75,000 inhabitants. Some of us go up in 
carriages, some on the cars. 

The first impression made on the mind is relief 
at the vast improvement upon the populations of 
Egypt, Palestine and Asia Minor, in the dwellings, 
manners and clothing of the people. Business is 
conducted much as I had been used to at home ; 
the streets were cleanly, the buildings tasteful, and 
life, energy and snap greeted us at every turn. 
I and President Mills hire a guide to conduct us 
to the sights of Athens that was. We go first to 
the Temple of Thesens, who made himself im- 
mortal on the fields of Marathon before the haugh- 
ty Persian was vanquished there; to whom was 
ascribed the honor of uniting into one common- 
wealth the twelve States into which Cecrops divid- 
ed Attica. The national hero of the Greeks, they 
erected this temple to receive his bones which 
Cimon brought from Scyros, B. C. 469, and it be- 
came a tomb, a temple and an asylum all in one, 
and while one of the earliest works of ancient 
Athens, it is the best preserved ; 104x45 feet, having 
a peristyle of Doric columns, it served as a model 
for the advanced age and national prosperity that 
produced the Parthenon under Pericles the first of 
Grecian statesmen, and Phidias the first of all 
sculptors. We then go to the so-called prison of 
Socrates, where he is said to have drunk the fatal 
cup of hemlock. It is only traditional, and for- 



246 



ever beyond the reach of certainty, but certainly 
every indication favors the tradition. 

It is a cave divided into two rooms, cut into the 
solid stone, the first cave or room faces the Acro- 
polis, and is entered by a door, of about the 
ordinary size; the second one, in which the 
sage was confined is entered from the first by 
a narrow door on the back side and near the right 
corner. We go next to Areopagus or Mar's Hill. 
It is reached by sixteen steps which though cut in 
the solid stone are nearly worn out, one , or two 
being gone entirely. A few places cut smooth on 
the top point out, it is thought, where the accuser 
and accused stood in trials held here; the Council 
that met here was called the Upper Council, the 
one meeting in the valley being called the Council 
of Five Hundred. Its name is derived from the 
double name of Mars, and Ares. He was tried 
here, for the murder of Neptune's son, by the 
Gods and the place has since been called Areo- 
pagus or Mar's Hill! It lies to the west of the 
Acropolis and is separated from it by a valley, 
which has largely been filled up by the accumu- 
lation of rubbish for many centuries. 

Vandalism has well nigh done its worst in 
Athens. Only think of demolishing the temples 
that were not only the pride and glory of Athens 
at her acme of greatness but the unrivalled pro- 
duction of architectural genius in all ages, for 
material with which to shelter an ignoble race, too 



247 

lazy to go to the quarries, or of taking the columns 
that formed the supports of the roof or archi- 
traves of the temples of Jove or Minerva, and 
use them for burning lime kilns, and we have a 
sample of what has been going on here for cen- 
" turies, and an answer to the question, why are 
there not more of the remains of ancient Athens? 

The second day we visit the Acropolis, the ele- 
vated rock upon which Cecrops began to build 
Athens 1550 years B. C. It is a nearly level area,, 
about one thousand feet from east to west by half 
that distance from north to south. It was fanci- 
fully said to be the center of four other concentric 
circles, viz. : Athens the city, Attica, Greece, the 
world. 

It is entered only through the propylea, on the 
west, the finest ever built, executed under the di- 
rection of P ericles, and though much abused by 
the unappreciative rulers that have dominated here 
for many centuries, and the inevitable friction of 
rolling years, the mind easily rebuilds the abused 
but still graceful structure, and rejoices in contem- 
plation of what it once was, while we 



"Sigh for the touch of a vanished hand 

And the voice that is hushed in death forever." 



We pass the great Propylea and stand on soil 
pressed by some of the greatest men of anti- 
quity. Just to the right of the gate Lord Byron 



248 



is supposed to have sat as he wrote the following 
lines : 

"Slow sinks, more lovely ere his race be run 
Along Morea's hills, the setting sun ; 
Not, as in northern climes, obscurely bright, 
But one unclouded blaze of living light ! 
O'er the hush'd deep the yellow beam he throws, 
Gilds the green wave that trembles as it glows. 
On c:d Aegina's rock, and Idra's isle, 
The god of gladness sheds his parting smile, 
O'er his own regions lingering, loves to shine, 
Though there his altars are no more divine. 
Descending fast the mountain shadows kiss 
Thy glorious gulf, unconquer'd Salamis ! 
Their azure arches through the long expanse 
More deeply purpled meet his mellowing glance, 
And tendered tints, along their summits driven, 
Mark his gay course and own the hues of heaven 
Till, darkly shaded from the land and deep, 
Behind the Delphian cliff he sinks to sleep." 

— The Corsair. 
I 

Here they concentrated their thoughts, their 
genius and wealth for the glory and protection of 
their nation. On this area were to be found many 
temples erected in honor of their gods and god- 
desses, the chief of which was Minerva or Athena, 
in whose honor three images arose and the two 
grandest of their temples. The irregular Erectheum 
and the Parthenon both contained images of 
Jove's virgin daughter. The Parthenon, which 
contained her statue, 33 feet high, the work of 
Phidias and made of ivory and gold, covered with 
gold ornaments to the amount of nearly half a 
million dollars, presented in its Doric columns, 



249 

metopes and fretted frieze not only the best school 
of architecture, but the richest museum of sculp- 
ture and choicest collection of paintings in all the 
world : "dedicated to the national glory and the 
worship of the gods." 

The Venetians bombarding the Turks in the 
17th century, set fire to a powder magazine here, 
and well nigh demolished this temple. The col- 
umns on the west end present many indentations 
made by bombs and grape shot. May we not hope 
that a perpetual peace has settled upon the Acrop- 
olis at last ? 

The present King, George, has shown a praise- 
worthy disposition to exhume and preserve what- 
ever relics still remain undiscovered. He has had 
a museum fitted up in the rear of the Parthenon 
for the reception of such relics as have been re- 
cently found, or may be, and had the ancient Sta- 
dium excavated a year or two since at his own ex- 
pense. 

We went through the museum and was.chagrin- 
ed at the paucity of the remains that greeted our 
eyes. We visited the Acropolis on three successive 
clays, with the same sense of admiration for the 
Greeks of the perishability of all earthly produc- 
tions though they be marble or brass, of the truth 
of the poet's words that "He builds too low who 
builds beneath the skies," and of the Scripture 
that saith "Except the Lord build the house they 
labor in vain who build it." 



250 



We visited the few standing columns that mark 
the site of the magnificent temple of the Olympian 
Zeus. 

The Odeon, or Theatre of Herod, is still to be 
seen on the south side, below the Acropolis, and 
east of this the Theatre of Dionysius, with the 
seat of Dionysius, in which I sat. It is one piece 
of marble with rests like an arm chair, and his 
name is carved on the front of it in Greek. These 
theatres were for the enactment of tragedies, rec- 
itations of poems, etc. The seats were all of stone 
and were arranged in semi-circular tiers one above 
another. 

There was a pedagogue surrounded by about 
fifty or sixty young men and boys standing at the 
entrance to this theatre, and our guide said (for 
though I had read Greek at school, I could not 
understand a word he spoke), he was lecturing 
on the political history of Greece, and striving 
to arouse their patriotic impulses by speaking 
to them amid the ruins of better times. He would 
point to the Acropolis above, the theatre in front, 
the country or battle-fields in the distance, and 
was animated in his delivery and interesting to 
his audience. I was reminded of the old peripa- 
tetics of whom I read when a boy. 

Other objects of which I may not speak at large 
but which we could not afford to slight, were the 
temple of Nike, or the wingless victory, at the 
threshhold of the Acropolis, Tower of the winds, 



251 



Stadium, the Gate of Hadrian, the Agora, or mar- 
ket-place where St. Paul disputed "daily with 
them that met with him." 



CHAPTER XXVII. 



AMONGST SA VANTS. 



Academy of Plato. — AVhere Cereals were first planted, 
and Olive trees. — Soil and Products. — Eleusis. — Cut- 
ting Greece in two. — Vessels going by Land. — Corinth. 
— Acro-Corinthus. — Pirene, where Pegasus drank. — 
We view the Whole Land. — A Solemn Moment. — 
The American School at Athens. — Mt. Lycabettus. — 
Athens Gave, Let her Receive again. 

THE morning of April 12th was somewhat 
threatening ; several watery looking clouds 
were floating through the skies not very high 
above the Capitol city of Greece. The train was 
due to leave the station for Peloponnesus at 7 
o'clock. The previous evening, seven of us met 
in the parlor of the Hotel for Foreigners, where all 
were stopping except myself, I being at the Hotel 
of the Ionian Islands two squares away, and ar- 
ranged with a guide to visit Corinth by the early 
train. The distance was three hours, and we had 
six hours in which to do old Corinth and the 
Acro-Corinthus, which was the chief object of our 
visit. 

Five of our company were preachers, four of 
these, D. D's.; five were Americans ; two were col- 



253 

lege Presidents ; the two who were not ministers 
were Sunday school teachers. 

Soon after starting we passed a hillock to the 
left, which our guide called the Academy of Soc- 
rates, a little farther on, to the right, the place 
where Plato's Academy was, or his garden which 
he inherited and in which he is said, by Diogenes r 
to have taught, as well as in the Academy. Near 
by our guide pointed out the birth-place of Miltia- 
des and the plain in which the first cereals, given 
by the goddess Ceres for the rescue of her daugh- 
ter, Proserpine, were planted. They chose a good 
place to begin at, as the soil is still very fertile af- 
ter continued cultivation for more than twenty- 
five centuries. It is a dark red clay and had a 
fine crop of wheat or barley growing on it during 
our journey. There were a great many poppies in 
full bloom, mingled with the wheat, which, how- 
ever, some of our company, better versed in Botany 
than myself, contended were not poppies, but ane- 
mones, or something else. 

It is in the same locality in which the Greeks 
claim the first Olive tree was planted on earth ; 
they still abound, also. 

Our first stopping place was Eleusis, once pow- 
erful enough to contend with Athens for the 
sovereignty of Attica, and more ancient than 
Athens or even Ceres whom they worshipped r 
whose temple the Persians destroyed when they 
invaded Attica, but which was rebuilt by Ictines- 



254 



the architect of the Parthenon under Pericles, but 
to be again demolished by the German vandal 
Alaric, A. D.-395, Its shattered walls stand on a 
rocky knoll, about two minutes walk from the sta- 
tion, in the midst of a people who seem not only 
to have no pride at remembrance of the glory at- 
tained by their ancestors, but not even the remem- 
brance of that glory or even conception of it ; yes, 

" All except their sun is set." 

The road winds around the bay of Eleusis, then 
the gulf of iEgina filled with small islands. We 
saw hundreds of birds floating on the surface and 
feeding on the small fishes just below the surface. 
The hillsides are covered with worthless, scrubby 
pines, a few feet high, besides which we saw no 
timber at all. We passed over the Corinthian 
Isthmus through which many rulers vainly sought 
to cut a channel large enough for the passage of 
vessels. Among those wishing thus to unite the 
Saronic and Corinthian gulfs were three of the 
Caesars and Alexander the Great, and previous to 
them Diodorus Poliorcetes, who abandoned his 
purpose because he found he would inundate the 
country on the Saronic gulf. However, the mod- 
erns have found out the error of Demetrius and 
will soon have the two seas flowing together, and 
Peloponnesus will be an island. The canal is cut 
through the stone most of the way, and is two or 
three hundred feet deep in several places, judg- 



255 



ing only from what I could see from the cars as 
we crossed. 

How strange to think, as we looked upon the 
rough ground between the two seas, almost five 
miles apart, that the Greeks used to draw their 
vessels from one to the other overland ! However, 
that was previous to the clays of ironclads and the 
Great Eastern. We stopped at Corinth Station, 
somewhere within the old city limits, no doubt, 
but about eight miles from the citadel, Acro-Cor- 
inthus. 

We took carriages and rode to a small village of 
half a dozen dwellings, passing on the route sev- 
eral places paved with smooth stones and circular 
in shape, about one hundred feet in diameter. 
Our carriages halted in a cluster of houses under 
some large sycamore trees, one of which extended 
its ample shade over us while we dined on a rude 
table, for the use of which we paid a drachma 
(20 cts.) We were soon besieged by antiquity ven- 
ders, having " genuine antiques", tear bottles, cups, 
kylixes, &c, &c; which, they said, were once used 
by the ancient Corinthians. 

Near by where we ate, a few Doric columns, tied at 
the top by large stones, fragments of the old archi- 
trave, mark the site of the only remaining temple 
of the gods of Corinth, and the only building that 
St. Paul looked upon during his sojourn there. 
From this temple we took horses and rode to the 
gates of the citadel, about three miles distant, and 



256 



two thousand feet high. This was the most im- 
pregnable fortress known to the ancients, called 
the "fetters of Greece" by Philip, and could be 
taken only by surprise or treachery, and even since 
the days of artillery ca n be taken from one side only,, 
a pointed rock to the southwest from which it was- 
battered and taken by Mohammed the Second. 
There are two or three sets of gates that must be 
passed ere one can reach the interior. Within the 
walls are the remains of a large town, perhaps not 
less than twelve thousand people once lived on 
this rocky pinnacle ; none of the houses, however,, 
remain intact, all have been partially or quite torn 
down. Two Mohammedan mosques remain, shat- 
tered as the rest. In the largest one about half- 
way from the gates to the highest point of the 
hill, two cows were quietly resting in the shade,, 
chewing their cuds. 

" Here is the spring at which Pegasus was drink- 
ing when taken by Bellerophon." At proper in- 
tervals along the walls many old cannon were 
distributed, but all at which they could belch forth, 
their missiles of woe was gone. 

Where two thousand years ago marble temples 
stood in honor of Venus, where was the Stadium,, 
the Theatre, the Agora, the Lyceum and Academy, 
all was still ; Mohamed's had likewise come and 
gone. 

A few patches of houses (I will not say towns),, 
disgraced the ample plains below, once teeming 



257 

with cultivated citizens, who excelled in painting 
and casting and working of glass as their neigh- 
bors at Athens did in sculpture, who probably are 
+he authors of the bronze Hercules in the Vatican 
which cost Pius, the ninth, over ten millions of 

pounds. 

A few crafts float in the harbors of the opposite 
seas, where once were forests of masts, whence- 
sailed the first war galleys and whither came the- 
commerce of all the Orient. 

Looking over the Corinthian gulf we saw" 
Mount Parnassus northwest, mantled in snow" 
having Delphi, "Where save a feeble fountain, all 
is still,' 5 * to the left, and many mountain peaks in 
view, the mention of whose names calls to mind 
some tragic event in history, some metamorphosis 
of the mythologist, some immortal song of the 
poet. 

We all gathered at the highest point and scanned' 
the horizon round through our glasses, then the 
nearer landscape,then back into each other's eyes to- 
read reflections that might find expression there. 
What melancholy emotions involuntarily arise in 
witnessing how the glory of man may vanish and 
come to nought ! 

We returned, reaching Athens about 7 p. m., 
and felt, as President Mills expressed it, that 
though he had to go over the road three times, it 
would not be too often. I learned something of 
value from the discussion between him and Dr. B. 



258 



about the habits of literary men, and furnished a 
good amount of diversion by interpreting a query 
respecting the garrulity of a noted beer-drinker, 
whom we had met, to refer to a want of gastric 
•equilibrium. 

The next day, in company with three of the 
gentlemen of the party that went to Corinth, we 
visited the. American School of Archaeology Histo- 
ry and Literature. We met Prof. Rolfe, a graduate 
of Amherst College, and for some time professor 
in the University of Ohio. Already he has gained 
an enviable place among modern archaeologists, 
though he did not seem to be past twenty-five. 
'We also met his accomplished young wife, a fit 
companion for a man whose chief association be- 
sides, is with fragments of old stones exhumed 
from old city sites and tombs. 

Prof. Waldstein is in charge of the school, and 
it seems to be in excellent hands. He will be re- 
membered as the visitor who discovered the lost 
metope of the Parthenon in the Louvre at Paris, 
and came suddenly before the world as a discover- 
er, taking high rank as an archaeologist, which 
position he has ever since most ably sustained. 

From those gentlemen we learned that a student 
can live in Athens, have free use of the school, and 
meet all necessary expenses for about $12.50 to 
$15.00 per month. 

We ascended Mt. Lycabettus hardby the city to 
the northeast, and enjoyed one of the finest land- 



259 



scapes on earth. Saving her temples, Athens is 
as beautiful, perhaps, as ever ; so are her blue 
gulfs, her fields of wheat that skirt the suburbs, 
her groves of olive trees, her royal gardens, her 
paved streets, her marble palaces, her modern 
academies, one of which has the finest Aulae of 
any university in the world, some think. 

Athens that was did her share in making the 
civilization of the world that is, going in her mis- 
sion by way of Rome and Constantinople, while 
Athens that is at last is receiving back from the 
civilized nations, whom she so well served, the 
ideas of commerce, manufacturing, politics, liter- 
ature and law. 



CHAPTER XXVIII. 



THROUGH THE DARDANELLES, HEL- 
LESPONT AND SEA OF MARMORA 
. TO CONSTANTLNOPLE. 



On Stormy Waters. — Bishop Fowler.— The Dead line of 
Nations, Chessboard of Ancient Warriors. — Leander 
and Hero's Homes. — Approach to the Sublime Porte. 
— Its Geography. —Volume of Business. — Ironclads. 

WE go from Piraeus, the harbor of Athens, 
to Constantinople by the Italian line of 
steamers. Now an Italian agent will always make 
a traveller pay more than the legitimate price of 
a ticket. On railroads they only collect 5 centimes 
more than the price stamped on the face of the 
ticket, while I found, after going aboard, that I had 
paid three lirae or sixty cents more than the price 
as stamped on the face of the " billet. r ' 

We had a stormy sea until we reached the Dar- 
danelles. I dreamed, the' first night out from 
Athens, of embracing loved ones at home, and 
awoke to find myself holding tight to the sides of 
my berth to keep from falling out. A fellow-pas- 
senger told me, next day, that he was thrown from 
his (upper) berth to the floor of his stateroom, and 
considerably bruised. 



261 



Bishop Fowler, Mrs. Fowler and their only son, 
C. H. Fowler, Jr., were on board, and in frequent 
conversations with this great representative of our 
" big sister," I learned to love him, as a godly 
man, whose ability rather serves to pave the way 
of easy access than build a wall of separation for- 
bidding approach. With him I am sure the hum- 
blest would have the first consideration, not grave 
to the destruction of humor, nor humorous to the 
compromise of dignity. A recital of his experience 
as a christian and preacher was very valuable to 
me, as well as many suggestions he let fall about 
the church work in general and missionary work 
in particular. It was my purpose to have attended 
his conference at Loftcha, near Sophia, but was 
prevented for want of time, being anxious to reach 
the May meetings in London. At ten o'clock next 
morning we entered the mouth of the Dardanelles, 
and every foot of land from here to Constantinople 
has a history all its own, associated with the 
building or burying of earthly kingdoms. We 
first pass Tenedos, whither Homer says the Greeks 
carried their galleys to make the Trojans think 
they had retired from the siege, and where they 
built the wooden horse. We are passing near that 
field where nothing but the death of faithful Pa- 
troclus could dispel the sullen gloom of Peleus' 
son and kindle his martial spirit into that quench- 
less flame that made the hero of Homer, Greece 
and antiquity identical. Fine fields, fairly culti- 



• . 262 

I 
vated, stretch inland from the Straits and seem to 

be capable of large yield, Occasionally thin for-. 
ests of diminutive growth adorn the landscape. 
We reach the towns of Sedur-Bahr on the left and 
Dardanelles on the right, where we have to halt 
and submit to an examination by the Turkish Offi- 
cials appointed by the government to examine all 
vessels passing that way to Constantinople and the 
Black sea. Near by we see where Leander and 
Lord Byron swam across, about three miles, the 
latter taking seventy minutes to make it. The dis- 
tance is said to be three miles, while the current 
carries one a mile out of this course, making it 
necessary to travel four miles in all. Lord Byron 
and a fellow traveller, Mr. Ekenhead represented 
the current as strong, the water cold, though they 
made the shore without fatigue. 

Some doubt whether the story of Leander be 
true, as he would have to swim eight miles from 
Abydos to Sestos and return. A tower, called Le- 
ander's tower, stands at the mouth of the Bos- 
phorus between Stamboul and Scutari, built to com- 
memorate this faithful, brave and devoted lover. 

Here, by Abydos, Xerxes hadjbuifr his bridge of 
boats for the transportation of the Asiatic troops to 
Europe, the first of which, by Mandraele, was car- 
ried away by a storm, which so enraged him that 
he murdered the architect. 

The ancient site of Abydos is now occupied by 
a Turkish town called Nogaw Bauran ; here Par- 



263 



menio led Alexander's army across from Europe 
to Asia, and again the Osmanli Crescent crossed 
here to be set up first on European soil, by Sulei- 
man, A. D., 1360. 

The day was very bright, which greatly in- 
creased the enjoyment of the' sail through wa- 
ters so renowned, where steamships from all na- 
tions pass hourly up and down. We fain would 
have driven our ship on faster, that we might enjoy 
the views presented by the borders of both conti- 
nents, all the way to Constantinople, but night fell 
upon us as we entered the sea of Marmora (or 
marble). It is so named in consequence of the 
abundant supply of marble quarries along its 
coasts and in its Islands. 

I can hardly hope to convey to my readers even 
a small conception of the beauty which the rising 
sun revealed on the morning of April 15th, as 
we came into the harbor of Constantinople. For 
more than an hour previous to our arrival we 
were on deck, eagerly anticipating, from state- 
ments made by those on board and familiar with 
the city, somewhat of its magnificence. 

In approaching the city on the sea of Mormora 
we pass Stephanos, where the English gunboats 
stopped the Russians approaching to the capture 
of the Turkish capital, in 1877, just too soon 
Next is Makrikoi, (pronounced Makrikeue,) then 
a large factory town to the left and Scutari to the 
right — all suburbs of Stamboul. The sea contains 



264 



many islands, a visit to seven of which claims 
one clay of the hurried tourist's time. 

The objects seen most distinctly at a distance 
as one approaches are the minarets of St. Sophia, 
the Mosque of Achmed and the Genoese Tower. 
These appear to be only a mite above a sea of in- 
distinct objects all mingled together promiscu- 
ously — the outlines of this world-renowned me- 
tropolis. As we approach nearer and nearer, the 
parts of the mighty entrepot stretch out on either 
hand like wings, and rising from the water, terrace- 
like, extend far inland. 

The sea is divided into two arms — one of which, 
to the right, extends twenty miles to the Black 
sea and is called the Bosphorus ; the other, about 
six or seven miles long, is called the Golden Horn. 
That part of the city which is embraced by these 
two arms bears the double name of Pera and Gala- 
ta. Pera is the name of the upper portion and 
Galata the lower. Galata is connected with Stam- 
boul or old Byzantium (of the Greeks,) by an 
American-built iron bridge across the Golden Horn. 
Immediately to the left is the old Seraglio grounds. 

The city across the Bosphorus on the Asiatic 
side is called Scutari, of whose wealth we shall 
have occasion to speak hereafter. 

Our ship anchors just below Seraglio Point, 
surrounded by a hundred more, doing business in 
these waters to the amount of 7,000,000 tons an- 
nually, receiving and discharging tourists and 



265 

cargoes from and to all civilized nations. A 
thousand minarets, each surmounted by a cres- 
cent, gleaming in the sun-light, rise above a city 
or cities magnificent in extent and in appearance 
from the deck of our steamer, and in power, also , 
if we judge by the length of time they have dom- 
inated these seas and shores, or by the dozen idle 
ironclads at rest in the Golden Horn, ready at 
short notice to sail in the national defence or the 
conquest of any undefended nation whose tribute 
would be worth the cost of war. 



CHAPTER XXIX. 



IN AND ABOUT STAMBOUL. 



Meeting old acquaintances. — Genoese Tower. — Seraglio 
Grounds. — Sublime Porte. — St. Sophia. — Hippo- 
drome. — Janizaries.— Reservoir of 1001 Columns. — 
Seraskierat. — Pigeon Mosque. — Sultan's Mosque. — Se- 
lamlik or Yildik (Star.) — Bible House. — Mohammet- 
an Reverence for God. 

In Asia-Minor Again. — Of their Tickets, Boats, and car- 
ing for the Women. — City of the Dead. — Retaining 
identity of the Dead, a Horse's Tomb. — English Cem- 
etery, Heroes of the Crimean War. — Boulgourloo, 
Splendid Panorama. — Camels going to Mecca, Intense 
Excitement, Parading Cavalry. — An Accident. — 
Frightened by Turks. — Ramazan, Fast or Lent of 
the Moslems. 

WHEN I reached Cook's office, on the 
Rue de Pera, where good mail matter 
was in waiting, I met again Dr. Green, of Buffalo, 

N. Y., and Mr. Dogget, of , N. Y., whom I 

had seen in Jerusalem. We took a carriage, and 
George Thomas for a guide. We went first to the 
Genoese Tower, built by the Italians when they 
were in possession centuries ago. It is on a hill in 
Galata, near to the British Post Office. It is a cir- 
cular wall about twelve feet thick, if I remember 
correctly, and about fifty feet in diameter. One 
ascends by stone steps in the wall about two hun- 
dred feet, whence the view is very fine. We next 



267 



cross the Golden Horn, pass Publiqiie Dette, the 
Government School for Priests, pass into the 
Seraglio grounds, go through the museum of 
Antiquities, see one fine piece of Statuary — An- 
dreanus, the Greek victor — Cyprian pottery and 
Assyrian Antiquities, drive as hear the Sublime 
Porte (that is, the lofty gate of the Seraglio, from 
which the name is given to the Sultan's realms) 
as they will allow, which is not near enough to 
pass through it, as we have no firman. In the 
grounds stands the largest tree I ever saw. It is 
a sycamore. We go hence to St. Sophia. It 
costs us two shillings each to enter and two piasters 
each for sandals to wear while within. Rugs and 
carpets of matting covered the floor, and a few 
Turks were praying, while others were laughing, 
and talking. St. Sophia was built for a Christian 
church, and the builder, when it was completed, 
was so elated at its magnificent appearance that 
he said: "Solomon, I have surpassed thee !" Some 
of the material was brought from Ephesus and 
other cities, and no doubt this was among the 
finest structures in existence when first built, as 
it is still. 

We go to the Hippodrome, which contains an 
Egyptian Obelisk, Constantine's tower, and the 
three brazen serpents, ten feet high and thirteen 
inches in diameter, which once " formed the in- 
terior of the Tripod of Delphos," they are twined 
together and have all been beheaded, the first one 



268 



by Mahomet (not the prophet) when he took the 
city. We saw one of these heads in the museum, 
this is one of the oldest antiques in existence, and 
speaks of the days when the Greeks looked to- 
wards Delphi, as the Moslems do towards Mecca. 

The Museum of the Janizaries next claims our 
attention; they were a mighty factor in the com- 
pletion of the subjugation of the Byzantine em- 
pire, one sees the dress and armor used by each 
officer and servant. Their number was only 1,000 
at first, chosen from among the Greeks as a body 
guard to the sultan, kept in position and faith- 
ful by receiving the spoils of war, they were in- 
creased to 40,000 and became a terror to Chris- 
tendom in the east. 

The Reservoir of 1001 columns is a wonderful 
structure ; it once contained three stories, each 
supported by 224 pillars making 672 in all ; why 
it was called reservoir of 1001 columns I do not 
know, two of these stories is now filled up, , the 
third, about 25 feet underground is used to spin 
silk in, when used for water it contained 1,000,000 
cubic feet, though that of St. Peter was six times 
as large ; when we emerged from it a rough Turk 
who had seen us enter or who had been called by 
our guide was on hand to receive backsheesh for so 
great and important a privilege as we had enjoyed. 

We next visit Seraskierat which contains the 
offices of the war department and the city tower 
which we did not ascend. Hard by is the Pigeon 



269 



mosque, the court yard of which is darkened by 
thousands of pigeons daily. When a Turk is sick 
or in perils by the sea, he vows to Allah to go and 
feed the pigeons, if he but obtain deliverance; 
hence one can always see these Mussulmen fulfill- 
ing their vows much to the gratification of the 
pigeons. 

Although we had engaged the carriage for the 
day, our coachman wanted his pay and to post- 
pone till to-morrow the seeing of the seven Towers 
and Palace of the Sultan's headquarters. After 
parleying over it for an hour we conquered and 
rode through the entire city of Old Stamboul, 
and back by the Barracks of his majesty's troops 
and Topari or Artillery Mosque and Palace and 
Selamlik, Mosque of the Sultan, called also YildiJe 
or Star. The interior of this is very imposing, 
the Sultan worships here once a week, on Friday. 
It is near to the Royal residence and surrounded 
by most splendid gardens, far up on the heights 
back of the city. Returning we stopped at the 
Bible house, and met Mr. Bliss, son of Dr. Bliss, 
whom we met in Egypt. He is the efficient young 
Secretary. I was told that the Bibles they dis- 
tributed are often torn to pieces by fanatical Turks ; 
but a Mohammedan will never destroy a paper 
with the name of God on it, if he knows it, on the 
contrary they will pick up and preserve every 
piece, however filthy that contains that holy name, 
they cram these pieces into crevices between rocks 



270 



or where the name will be preserved from further 
abuse. I heard a story of one thus preserving- 
such a piece of Scripture in Jerusalem and had 
curiosity enough to read what was said about God, 
and was by it led to embrace Christianity. 

IN ASIA MINOR AGAIN. 
N. ..■''■■ 

April the 16th was set apart by us to visit Scu- 
tari, the Mohammedan and English Cemeteries 
and Boulgourloo, on the Asiatic side of the Bos- 
phorus. The steam ferry-boats start from the 
bridge that spans the Golden Horn, and are capa- 
ble of carrying about one hundred and fifty pas- 
sengers each, and they run about every fifteen min- 
utes through the day. One man sells you a ticket, 
another punches it and a third collects. The boat 
is divided into two decks, first and second class, 
each of which is divided into two compartments — 
one for gentlemen, one for ladies ; also on each side 
of the lower deck a room is cut off and labelled in 
English and Arabic, " Harem reserve ;" a man may 
take his wives in there if it be unoccupied, if it be 
occupied, he is separated from them on the trip- 
I thought once, at Bebek, I should fail to get 
aboard at all, being met and stopped at every 
effort, I found that, without knowing it, I was try- 
ing to pass through a gate where only females could 
pass. " One does in Turkey as Turks do." 

Landing in Scutari we took a carriage for the 
Mohammedan Cemetery — one of the largest in the 



271 



world, covering several square miles, and the tombs 
are crowded about as near together as they can be. 
Every grave was marked by a marble slab, or, I 
should rather say, post or column, for they were 
narrow and thick, often eight feet high, each hav- 
ing a head with the peculiar head-dress worn by 
deceased during his life. 

One is shown a canopy supported by six marble f 
columns here, beneath which is buried the favorite 
horse of Sultan Mohammed. Above all these wave 
tall and graceful cypresses, emblems of mourning. 

Passing this, we soon reach the English Ceme- 
tery to the right. Not only the English sailor^ 
and inhabitants who die here are brought here for ■ 
interment, but those of the English troops who fell 
in the Crimean war, sleep here also; and a granite 
shaft, forty or fifty feet high, stands in the midst 
of the grounds, raised in honor of England's fallen 
braves. It is approached from several sides by 
gravel walks, either shaded or bordered by sev- 
eral species of evergreens. Just outside is the hos- 
pital where is still shown the room and furniture 
of Miss Nightingale who devoted her talents to the 
alleviating of human suffering. 

About six miles from the landing at Scutari, we 
reach Boulgourloo, passing,, on the way, several 
pretty towns and a few of the Sultan's summer 
palaces, for he has a great number of them. Boul- 
gourloo is a high hill, covered with grass, sloping 
rapidly in all directions ; it is one of the hills on 



272 



which beacon fires were lighted from Tarsus to 
Byzantium before the electric telegraph. From it 
the Emperors used to start to Asia on their hunt- 
ing expeditions. The hill is several hundred feet 
high, and the forests having perished centuries 
since, one can see for a hundred miles over the sea 
of Marmora, studded with islands, and Kadi Koi r 
the site of Chalcedon of old, birth place of Zeno- 
crates, and seat of the fourth general council, A. 
D. 451, which condemned the Monophy sites; it was 
the starting point of generals, in olden times, to 
Persia and the East. It is more ancient than By- 
zantium (Constantinople). We see many miles over 
hills and plains towards the interior of Asia, On 
the other side the Bosphorus, adorned by a dozen, 
towns, come, by the aid of our glasses, within easy 
eye-shot. What shall T say of Constantinople, with 
her suburbs far enough away to lose all her objec- 
tionable qualities, and near enough to present her 
hundreds of mosques, palaces and public build- 
ings, with the ships of all nations ever coming and 
going ! Truly she sits a queen, and the most fa- 
vorably located of any city in the world, perhaps, 
if she only had a good citizenship, of progressive 
men in her back countries. 

We very fortunately happened on this side 
on the most favorable day of the year ; it is fif- 
teen clays until Ramazan, and the day the cam- 
els start to Mecca with the national offerings. They 
start from the Mosque of Achmed the first, and are 



273 



taken thence to a boat. The boat brings them to 
Scutari, and two huge Bactrian camels, decorated 
with silk into which threads of gold and silver are 
woven and ostrich feathers until they are nearly 
covered up, wait to receive the presents ; really the- 
camels are meant for priests or .dignitaries to ride 
upon, while thirty or forty mules are laden with 
two or three boxes and trunks apiece and the cam- 
els support large canopies that pitch forward at 
one step and backward at the next, as if they meant 
not to stay in position to grace the procession. 
Thousands of people had gathered to witness 
the religious fete; all the piazzas and windows 
were full of excited spectators ; about a hundred 
cavalry were on hand to keep the peace and guard 
the sacred treasures. The street that led down to 
the landing was so crowded that, fearing lest at 
the critical moment we should fail to be in a 
favorable position for seeing, we took a shop- 
keepers bench and stood upon it ; but when the 
cavalry formed in line we were only about four 
feet in their rear, and the very horse that was in 
front of us became very restless, ran backward 
into our crowd, hurting several persons and up- 
setting our bench, almost breaking a boy's leg. 
While all this pageant was passing I had serious 
misgivings lest the fanaticism of these Turks 
should suggest something disastrous to us Chris- 
tians, so few, and safeguards so far away, nor did 
I feel perfectly at ease until the crowd dispersed. 



274 



At two o'clock the booming of cannon informed 
us that the freight had started, and in a few mo- 
ments it was landed, reloaded and hurried away. 
While it was being brought ashore, there was a 
mock gladiatorial contest, but I do not think the 
combatants understood their business. 

The Ramazan is the Moslem Lent and lasts 
four weeks. During that- time they neither eat, 
drink nor smoke from sun-up until sun-down ; the 
first thing after sun-down is to smoke ; this they 
will do for an hour often, after which they eat. 
The camels start to Mecca two weeks before, so 
that the offerings may be on hand at the opening 
of Ramazan. We recrossed to the European side, 
made an excursion up the Golden Horn to the 
Sweet Waters, passing the magnificent red stone 
College of the Greek church, and completed the 
day. 



CHAPTER XXX. 



CONSTANTINOPLE AND THE TURKS. 



Through the Bosphorus to the Black Sea. — Mail Service 
and Tickets. — American College at Bebek. — Mehraet 
II. Garrison of Mehmet II. A Mighty monarch Re- 
ceives a Grand Ovation. S^amboul at her best. — The 
whole Creation Groaneth and Travaileth together 
in pain until now. — Turkish ways, About Wives, 
Salutations, Neplus ultra, to get there. — Extreme Mod- 
esty, Dress,. — As the twig is bent, the tree's inclined, 
Sample of Cleanliness. — Dogs, Diplomatic Dogs. — Sa- 
tan. — Mohamed's divisions of the World. — Kitablees. 
— Dr. Menzie's estimate. — First Standing Army. — Dr. 
Hamilton's Estimate. — Missions. 



LAST DAY IN CONSTANTINOPLE. 

WEDNESDAY, April 17th, was our last 
day in Constantinople. We went up 
the Bosphorus to the Black Sea. The coast on 
either hand was lined with towns nearly all the 
way up. Ours was a mail steamer and it was 
curious to see them deliver the mail and tickets, 
the former was carried in square boxes locked 
with a hasp, staple and padlock. At every station 
the Captain would have the tickets tied up in a 
little bag about such as we have seen boys carry 
their marbles in, into which a stone weighing four 
or five ounces was dropped, this would carry 
momentum sufficient to land it, while he received 



276 

a like wallet from each station to be carried on 
tossed aboard often after the boat was under head- 
way. Failing to carry lunch I had to buy some 
bread, which gave me an idea I should else have 
missed. As I could not speak Turkish, and being- 
alone (for my companions kept on back home, 
while I got off at Bebek to see our American Col- 
lege there,) I stood near by the bread vender until 
I saw him sell a ring of it about as large as the 
ring used on a cart tongue, say six inches in di- 
ameter, then I knew the price and bought myself, 
taking the bread and laying down the same price, 
two metterlichs. The idea I caught was the benefit 
of seeds sprinkled on the bread while conking, I 
do not know the name of the seeds they were 
about as large as bird shot and possessed a very 
strong and pleasant flavor. They also possessed 
an oily property which made the bread far more 
nourishing. 

The college is about twenty minutes walk from 
the landing, and is reached by walking up a very 
precipitous hill overlooking the Bosphorus. The 
walk-way, however, is well graded and passes under 
that famous wall built by Mohammed II. in three 
months, each workman doing more each day than 
had ever been done by one man in a day before or 
since. It was built in the shape of the Arabic let- 
ters which spell Hohammed's name, and as a rally- 
ing point from which to take Constantinople, and 
destroy the Byzantine empire. I had seen no 



277' 

prettier location anywhere than Robert College en- 
joys. It overlooks nearly the entire length of the 
Bosphorus and far away into Asia Minor beyond, 
whose bosom is covered with pretty towns and 
prosperous farm-houses in the midst of green 
fields. 

It is surrounded by a stone wall and a great va- 
riety of trees and shrubbery. The building is of 
stone and is large, commodious and well arranged; 
a four-story house, built around an open court, 
from which the ascent is made to the upper stories. 
After looking at the grounds and buildings suffi- 
ciently from without, I called on Dr. Washburn, 
the President; while waiting for him an indelible 
impression was made upon my mind to the effect 
that the officers were very busy and the students 
superlatively idle. Dr. Washburn I found to be 
a very polite, communicative gentleman, and was 
sorry to learn that the students of the college were 
from Servia, Bulgaria and Austria, being either 
Greek or Catholic christians, instead of Turkish 
boys, only one or two of which, I believe, are in 
the college. The college is a power for good, though 
far inferior, in my opinion, to that at Bierut. They 
have one hundred and seventy boys enrolled. An 
orator alluding to its proximity to Mahomet Sec- 
ond's wall and towers, said : "It stands on higher 
ground than those towers. It dominates them. 
Its forces are spiritual and eternal. It shall see 
them pass away." They were seven years secur- 



278 

ing a title to the property after it was promised, 
such is the Turkish way of doing business and his 
fear of the Russe and Frank. 

To-day is the Sultan's birthday, the masts of 
every Turkish craft are ornamented with stream- 
ers, the fronts of gardens and yards have lattice- 
work made of flowers and tinted paper woven into 
fanciful shapes, the branches of trees are hung full 
of bottles. The streets are crossed with ropes and 
twine woven into webs at places, all strung with 
candles and Chinese lanterns to be lighted at night. 
At 12 o'clock, M., a number of cannon are fired. 

Constantinople, a magnificent city, is at her best, 
doing honor to her ruler. Everybody seems to 
take pleasure in the occasion ; though he is as 
much afraid of dynamite as Alexander of Russia. 

At night the city, with all her suburbs, is illu- 
minated ; every one of her thousand minarets is 
blazing, and they look together like all the con- 
stellations of the skies had clustered just over the 
happy capitol. The Sultan's palace, just above 
Yildik, seemed from Galata across the Golden 
Horn, to be of crystal and illuminated with a 
hundred electric lights, and hundreds of inferior 
palaces, with mosques and military stations, far 
up on the heights in the suburbs, and private 
dwellings, all vied with each other in an effort to 
honor the Ottoman monarch. 

No doubt thousands of barrels of kerosene were 
consumed, and the full moon lent all her mellow 



279 

radiance to enhance the witchery of the scene. I 
stood for more than an hour beneath a spell, as it 
were. Pera, through which runs the Strand, or / 
Broadway, and the city on both sides the Bos- 
phorous are behind me and out of sight; but 
Stamboul, rising terrace-like beyond the Golden 
Horn, is reflected from its trembling face, which 
almost doubled the grandeur already overwhelm- 
ing. I had never seen anything of the kind so 
splendid before ; I do not expect to see it again on 
earth. Great is the power of a man or a system 
that sways millions of loyal souls, even though 
they be semi-heathens. 

This ovation not only marks the high place the 
Sultan holds in his subjects' esteem, but shows 
him entitled to be placed beside earth's monarchs. 
• Again we thought of the waste of labor and ma- 
terial, so much needed by the ignorant children 
of this ponderous empire, and asked the question,, 
why all this waste upon one poor, perishing po- 
lygamist, who feels to be jeopardizing his life 
every time he goes out ? And the answer comes 
back, for the sake of these same poor, needy 
wretches, who will not rest content without such 
remote, pampered, haughty, aristocratic masters. 
As at home, so here a man who would be loved 
and honored must know how to do the people. 
They are all pretty much the same here in the 
east. Of course sometimes a communist creates 
trouble, but such trouble is unlike that anarchy 



280 

which arises from a consciousness of irresponsible 
freedom among a people incapable of self-gov- 
ernment. 

Give such a people pageants, illuminations, 
parades, mystery about religion; make Cathedrals 
dark; read or sing prayers in an unknown tongue, 
excommunicate for reading scripture and know- 
ing truth, and it is no surprise to find anomaly in 
moral, social and political matters, such as a 
celibate (?) priesthood on the one hand and a 
polygamous one on the other. 

Time would fail to tell of all the strange expe- 
riences of a traveller here, or the interesting ob- 
jects on every hand, or the hatnts or religion of 
the Turks. The facts that they do abstain from 
wine, do observe the rite of circumcision, do fast 
during Ramazan, show them capable of becom- 
ing exemplary christians. They are cruel in the 
treatment of their wives, making them do almost 
all the work, consider the birth of girls a curse, 
and make them begin to wear veils at eleven or 
twelve years of age. 

If a man wishes a wife he must speak to his 
father to secure one for him; if he likes her he 
keeps her, if not, he returns her to her father; and 
if he be able to support two he gets his father to 
look him up another; no courting among the 
Arabs. 

Their salutations are unsurpassed by any people 
for grace and significance. An Arab meeting or 



281 



parting with a friend will raise his right hand to 
his forehead, drop it to his lips, then to his breast, 
which means, I revere you with my mind, speak 
well of you with my lips, and give you a place in 
my heart. One might go far to find more delicate 
politeness. On parting the first says: Yallah sa- 
laam! May you go in peace. The other responds: 
Salaam, i. e., peace. 

The ordinary salutation is, En harak saHd^i. e., 
May you have a rich day. The response is equiv- 
alent but the words different, and is: En harak 
mabarak! Will he make apology, he says : "Let 
your words be sweet." If an Arab wishes to carry 
a point he will stoop to conquer ; he will kiss your 
hand repeatedly, lay the back of it against his 
forehead, on the top of his head, and kiss it again. 

If you approach a female unveiled, who usually 
keeps her face veiled, she will pull the veil either 
over her face, catch it in her mouth or turn her 
head till you pass. 

Often in the warmer climates of Egypt and 
Palestine the males and females seemed to be 
dressed alike, looking at them from the rear ; a 
tunic or something like a sheet of white cloth is 
worn over the whole body, head and all ; the men 
often wear clothes like an American, often a skirt 
which fastens to each leg below the knee and a 
coat about his body. The women have a great 
variety of dress, including trousers. Mothers of 
the poor learn their children to say backsheesh be- 



282 



fore they learn to say mother. I have seen them 
send babies out to meet us not three years old, 
who understood their business. They will come 
out, babe in hand, point to it and say "he" or "she 
christian, backsheesh, Howadji!" 

A lady told me that while at Marsaba, in Pales- 
tine, she ordered a donkey boy to wash out the 
kyathos and bring her a nice drink of water ; he put 
some water in the vessel, went up to a donkey, 
thrust the end of the donkey's tail into the kyathos 
and mopped it out and brought her a nice drink 
of water ! Using him as a cup-towel ! 

While there are about 1,000,000 inhabitants in 
Constantinople our guide said there were 1,500,000 
dogs. I have counted eight in one pile, like hogs. 
These are nearly all of the same species, a kind of 
cross between the cur and Shepherd dog. They 
are religiously scrupulous about the treatment of 
canines. Every man feeds the dogs in front of 
his door, though he lays no claim to them; he 
will also defend them when endangered. The 
dogs of one street or section live in harmony 
among themselves, but will not tolerate strange 
dogs; they unite to ostracise any visitor; all seem 
to understand the proper boundaries of their real 
estate and allow no trespassing. 

The Mahommetans are fatalists. When misfor- 
tunes overtake them they say, Kismet Dur — It is 
fate. They do not think the trouble could have 
been averted by any effort of theirs. 



283 



They say that Satan, "Stoned Devil," against 
whom they pray five times daily, is the genius 
that inspires mechanical wisdom. 

They punish apostasy with death, unless the 
apostate recant at once. When Mohammed began 
his brilliant career, he told his followers the world 
was divided into two parts, viz: Dar ul Islam, and 
Dar ul Harb — that is, House of Islam and house 
of War. "House of War," said he, "is for God. 
God gives it to you." What such a motto and its 
inspiration wrought Christendom knows but too 
well. He predicted the capture of Constantino- 
ple 800 years before it was done. It was not Mo- 
hammed's purpose to destroy Christians and Jews. 
He called them Kitablees, or people with a Book, 
meaning the Bible — his system being a mongrel 
Judaism grafted to Arabic habits. His followers, 
however, did not adhere to this part of the plan. 
Jerusalem was the first city that fell into their 
hands, and Charlemagne, to whom the Kalif sent 
the keys of the Holy Sepulchre, secured from 
them safety for Frank merchants in Syria and 
Egypt. 

Dr. Menzies' Turkey, Old and New, says: "Mus- 
sulman conquest is rapid and splendid aod fol- 
lowed by precarious and incurable decadence." 
The Turks had a standing army when such a 
thing was unknown in Europe. But Europe was 
laying broad and deep the foundations for mightier 
conquests than the "gorgeous East" had ever 



284 



known, or could ever attain, until they too should 
follow the ways of the western world. 

The following is a summarized estimate of the 
Turks by one who travelled throughout the Otto- 
man Empire. " They are hospitable, charitable 
generally, sometimes generous ; the lower classes 
are honest, their greatest merit; not so with the 
upper classes; but one may rely on their solemn 
promise. They are ignorant, presumptuous, vain 
and bigoted, proud without any feeling of honor, 
and cringing without humility, cannot resist the 
temptation of money or the prospective benefit of 
a lie. 

In Government and administrative duties they 
are tyrannical and overbearing, in religion dog- 
matic and intolerant, in fiscal measures mercenary 
and arbitrary and ignorant of their own history 
as they are of others. The higher classes are 
inferior in character probity and honor to the 
lower. Their virtue is that of the Savage, who is 
generous because nature supplies his wants, and 
charitable because of the uncertain tenure by 
which he holds his goods ; poor and removed from 
temptation he is honest, but entrusted with office 
he becomes a thief. He plunders the poor and 
propitiates the rich by bribes, hence offices are 
sold to the highest bidder." 

Constantinople is the headquarters for such mis- 
sionary work as is carried on in Turkish territory. 
Our Consul there is a Jew, and secures for our 



285 



Missions more clemency than his Christian prede- 
cessor, so I was informed at Bierut. He put the 
Missions on the same basis as all other American 
enterprises. Dr. Hamlin, founder of Robert Col- 
lege, relates an experience which illustrates the 
power of Christianity even among Mussulmen. 
While superintending a bakery that supplied the 
English army with bread, he bought on thirty days 
time, ten thousand dollars worth of flour from a 
Turkish merchant, on his credit as a Christian 
Missionary. I visited the Sailors' bethel here and 
was present at one service, and had a gracious 
season of prayer with a sailor who had not walked 
for several weeks, on account of rheumatism, and 
was glad to learn that he came down stairs the 
next day. 

As I looked at this degraded people, often I was 
forced to weep, the}^ looked like sheep having no 
shepherd. I often longed for a voice that they 
could understand, that I might tell them good 
news, and that the christian church could but catch 
as a watchword Mahomet's own, " This part is 
God's, God gives it to you, r and give and go and 
continue giving and giving until the mighty work 
of preaching the gospel to every creature is done. 



# 



CHAPTER XXXI. 



THROUGH TURKEY, ROUMELIA, BULGA- 
RIA, SEEVIA, HUNGARY AND AUSTRIA. 



Caught in a Turkish Trap.— Cutting the Gordian Knot — 
How they Start a Train.— Customs Officers.— Turkish 
Landscape. — National Insignia. — New Modes of Ap- 
plying Water-power.— More Customs Officers, a New 
Kind.— Belgrade and More Officers.— Semlin and 
Still More. — Great Prairies. 



FROM CONSTANTINOPLE TO VIENNA. 

AT 9 o'clock, P. M., I left Constantinople for 
Vienna. After buying my ticket I was seized 
by two burly Turks unable to speak English more 
than to say "passe-port." Now, a passport is sel- 
dom required on entering Turkish dominions but 
always on leaving, so I had secured a Tester eh 
(Turkish passport) for Constantinople; just such 
a one as even a Turk would have been required to 
have if visiting there from some other place, but 
I had not had my American passport vised i. e. 
passed through the hands of a Turkish Consul and 
had his permission to travel in Turkey written on 
it. So I produced my Teskereh, they read it, 
handed it back, and demanded " passe-port." 



287 



Now, if I had given them my American passport, 
not vised, they would have fined me two or three 
dollars and detained me, perhaps, as many days. 
So I did not produce that, but handed back the 
Teskereh again, which they refused saying " passe- 
port," "passe-port." Not producing the other, one 
of them snatched the Teskereh out of my hand, 
which I snatched back as quickly, and turned and 
walked away. I had learned the tricks of Turks 
during two months in Egypt, Palestine, Syria, &c, 
and knew they were only after backsheesh. Had 
I fallen into the hands of the ruffians on entering 
their country for the first time, I would have had 
to pay out and have been deterred from leaving 
besides. When the train rolled off I felt a burden 
roll off with it. One is ever ill at ease for fear these 
Arabs will practice some new, successful trick upon 
him. 

The distance from Constantinople to Vienna is 
one thousand and fifty miles, the time forty-seven 
hours. 

I left the brilliantly illuminated city alone at 
nine o'clock P. M. 

Two or three young Germans got on the same 
*car, and I made effort to get into the same com- 
partment with them, first, because I was going to- 
wards Germany and I would practice speaking 
a little, and second, because I was afraid to ride 
with two or three Turks all night in a car locked 
up, and from which there was no possible egress 



288 



and no hopes of friendly ingress. I had purposely 
assumed a garb and exterior entire, on leaving 
home, that was calculated to allay all suspicion 
that I might have any thing worth the seizing, and 
I never enjoyed the effect of my role any where 
else so much as on this transcontinental ride.. 

The cars on all European railroads are dis- 
patched in the same way, as follows: Two alarm 
or signal bells are rung a few minutes before the- 
cars are ready to start; when the time expires a 
third bell is rung, the conductor blows a whistle 
like a dog whistle, the engineer responds with a 
single whistle from his engine, the cars moving off' 
at the same instant. There is no getting off or on 
after the last bell is rung. 

As we said we took the cars in old Stamboul and 
skirted the city by the seashore. It was twenty 
minutes ere we passed the emblazonments of the 
Sublime Porte and shot out into the darkness to- 
wards the west and home. 

Unable to converse with the two or three pas- 
sengers that were in the section of the car with me 
I was left to my own reflections, and many were 
the thoughts that coursed through my brain about 
these Turks, so strange in religion, in habit, in 
speech, in dress and all their customs; and so the 
mind went on to kindred subjects, the conditions 
of the human race, their multiform ways, creeds, 
colors, &c. But all have some, yea, several ideas 
in common. They all are supported by the same 



289 



processes, perpetuated alike they all have a thirst 
for lucre, and all have some idea of God. They 
are all made of one blood for to dwell on the face 
of the earth, and perhaps God sees a greater good 
in them all than we can see or are ready to believe. 
Musing thus the hours wore on and tired nature 
sank into the arms of Morpheus. There is no 
sleeping accommodations on this line, except on 
the train that leaves on Sundays, but I left on 
Thursday. 

Next morning we reached Adrianople, the last 
Turkish town. Other travelers carried their bag- 
gage to the custom house from the train. I did 
not. I had not seen it on that fashion as yet. So 
in a few minutes the officers searched the train,, 
and I expected trouble, but found none and ex- 
perienced such a sense of relief at being rid of these 
bugbears as only those who have travelled in the 
Orient are able to appreciate. 

As we hurried through a very fertile looking plain 
the Balkan mountains about twenty miles from 
our way were covered with snow. The fellaheen 
were ploughing with six oxen to an iron plow, 
made by civilized mechanics, which promised to 
put new life into the agricultural interest of 
Turkey. We passed the breastworks that mark the 
spot where many a brave Servian bled and died 
in 1877, striving to free themselves from the gall- 
ing yoke of Turkey. Large herds of sheep were 



290 



pasturing near the road in Turkey Servia, and 
Roumelia. 

This long railroad has different cars and differ- 
ent officials for every State through which it pas- 
ses, and we knew when we ran into a new territory 
by the change in the uniform of the railroad and 
military officers. The Servians and Bulgarians 
wear very heavy caps of felt with long knap, also 
the red stripes down their trouser legs was about 
two inches wide while that of the Turks was only 
one-fourth to three-eighths wide; all wear the 
national coats of arms. The first day I took din- 
ner at Tzaribrod. I saw the names on signs here 
were almost all Russian, as well as the style of 
dress. I noticed in passing through Bulgaria the 
water conveyed to several mills through races 
around hillsides until it had reached the point to 
be applied when it was emptied from the race into 
a hollow log about twenty feet long through 
which it was precipitated against a paddle wheel. 

This was on the evening of April 18th ; the snow 
was falling and there was promise of a cold, sleep- 
less night. I had just fallen into a good slumber 
when quite a stir of passengers awoke me. All 
must go with all their baggage again to the Bul- 
garian customs officers to be examined and have 
our passports restamped. My shoes were thin, 
the rain and snow were falling fast, the fire had 
died out in the stove that was this time under the 
coach, warming the car by a pipe that ran through 



291 



from bottom to top. So I moved slowly and my 
baggage was rather heavy for a single man to car- 
ry. There were no lights about and I was nearly 
lost in the darkness, unable to speak a word com- 
prehensible to the people there. There were two 
or three doors or windows lighted up by dim 
lamps within, and in one of these I saw people 
moving about ; to that one I went to find the low 
counter for the reception of a traveller's baggage. 
Passing these guardians at the outposts of the 
nation who register every passenger's name, place 
from which he came, and to which he is going, 
(because ■ eternal vigilance is the price of liberty ') 
and regaining my car T wrapped myself up in my 
Arab bist, and slept till the morning sun showed 
us the flushed river Save at the junction of which 
with the Danube we see the beautiful city of 
Belgrade, into which we run and get a fine Ger- 
man breakfast at railroad prices. 

Once more our luggage and passports have to be 
exhibited, and once more on the cars we feel easy. 
We cross a high trestle over the Save and stop at 
Semlin, still in sight of Belgrade, and are ordered 
once more to give the representatives of the Aus- 
trian Empire sufficient reasons why I should hope 
to pass through their country. It is not enough 
that a man is of a lawful age, he must be well 
recommended also. We stopped only about an 
hour or two in Buda-Pesth, and had only time to 
get an idea of the general appearance of the Hun- 



292 



garian capital, and hurried away to Wien, as they 
call it in German. I found two Hungarians aboard 
the cars who had lived a long while in America. 
One was going to Vienna to see his wife and baby. 
To hear him speak of his baby reminded me of 
the father of " dat Young Yawcub Strauss." Fol- 
lowing his advice, I stopped at the hotel Wimber- 
ger, near the West Bahnhof, and was well pleased, 
even when I reckoned with mine host and Co.* 

From Semlin to Pesth the road soon crosses the 
Danube and then runs north between the rivers 
Theiss and Danube, about seven hours through a 
marshy plain all the way. Man}^ ponds of water, 
miles in extent, and not over two feet deep, lay 
along our way. The farm house, all through Hun- 
gary, reminded me of the Dutch I had been used 
to at home. The cattle are some species of long- 
horns ; often their horns seemed to me to be three 
feet long, or more. 



* Generally two or three to a dozen servants are on hand when a 
traveller leaves, each expecting a gratuity. 



CHAPTER XXXII. 



VIENNA 



Antiquity.— Its Beauty. The Ring-Strasse with its 
Voluptuousness. — Art Galleries, Confessional, In- 
dulgences, Accursed Trio. — Some Fine Churches. — 
All go to church in the morning. Sunday Afternoon 
is Holiday.— The Prater, Beer gartens...Tra,ming Young 
Soldiers. — Some ridiculous customs. — The Women 
Hew the Wood, Cultivate the Land and Pay the Tax. 
— Dogs used for Horses. — Shoenbrun Headquarters of 
Surgery. — Royal Condescension. — Religious Phase. — 
Missions. 

VIENNA. 

IT would require a whole book to give any ade_ 
quate idea of the "most splendid capitol of 
Europe." It is an old city, originally settled by 
Celts, afterwards, it became a Roman military 
station. Marcus Aurelius died there. It was be- 
seiged by Attila and afterwards by the Turks. It 
has been the seat of the house of Hapsburg for 
more than six hundred years. 

Vienna owes its beauty to a circumstance. It 
was once a walled town, but all the space having 
been taken for buildings and streets within the 
walls, the space around them was taken until 
there was more of the city outside than inside 
the walls 



294 



The ancient city within the walls is called the 
Stadt, and numbers about 50,000 inhabitants, 
while the entire city numbers about 1,000,000. 
As the bulk of the city was thus exposed, it was 
determined about thirty-two years ago to tear the 
wall away, the space occupied by the wall was 
converted into a street about two or three hundred 
feet wide, laid off into boulevards and street-car 
lines. It is called King-Strasse. 

The Stadt is the fashionable quarter. The Hof- 
burg, or imperial palace is there as well as those 
of the nobility. The Graben or street containing the 
finest stores is there, the banks, leading churches, 
museums, galleries, etc. 

Around the Ring-Strasse (Ring Street) are situ- 
ated the National Museum, two large stone build- 
ings covering about four acres each, and between 
them Maria Theresa Platz, where her bronze statute 
is seated in an imperial chair surrounded by 
statesmen, generals, poets, sculptors, physicians 
and musicians as Loudon, Khevenhueler, Lich- 
tenstein, Daun, Kaminitz, Haugwitz, Mosart, 
Haydn, and others. 

Next is the Treasury, after which is the Parlia- 
liament building, the facade of which presents 
three gables adorned with statuary representing 
the country at peace ; these are supported by fifty 
Corinthian columns and eight pilasters. Sloping 
walks, guarded by gend'arms, go up to the great 
porches. The interior is arranged after the same 



295 



model as that of the United States at Washington. 
The top is surmounted by eight chariots drawn by 
two and four horses. It was said to have cost 
8,000,000 florins. We noticed some master-pieces 
of frescoing, done by Kruppen-Kearl : Maria The- 
resa, after the seven years war, Founding of St« 
Stephens, and From the Cradle to the Grave, the 
original from which came the chromos and en- 
gravings of the same, no doubt. Next to this is 
the Rathhaus, or city hall, one of the finest in the 
world, costing 17,000,000 florins, (a florin purchases 
about as much labor as a dollar, but is less than 
50 cts.) The ceiling of one room, thegrand recep- 
tion hall, cost 48,000 florins and a single chandelier- 
cost 35,000 florins. The floor is made of oak mosaics 
oiled. 

The Rathhaus is situated in the rear of a square 
laid off in pretty walks and thick-set with shrub- 
bery. 

Next to the Rathhaus is the Vativkirche (Votive 
church) erected in commemoration of the Empe- 
ror's escape from assassination in 1853. Very near 
by is the University. The departments are all in 
the same room, and labeled, Law, Theology, Med- 
icine, &c, the Aula contains the statues of Maria 
Theresa, and Rudolph, the founder. The library 
occupies nine stories, having floors of iron bars 
about the size of laths turned edgewise to admit 
the free transmission of light. It is said to contain 
1,000,000 volumes, besides several thousand incun- 



296 



abula (first books printed) some fine books of parch- 
ment costing 1,400 florins per volume when new. 
They contain ,very rare, highly colored pictures. 
All these are seen in glass show-cases. Crossing 
the Ringstrasse, we pass the New Opera, a very im- 
posing structure externally, enter the Volksgarten, 
a small park containing the Theseum, a small 
Temple built like the Temple of Theseus at 
Athens, and to hold Canova's marble group of 
Theseus slaying the Minotaur. Passing through 
the Volksgarten we see the Operu House, Bank, 
Academia Kunstler Haus, which is quite a picture 
gallery, filled with visitors. One picture, by Fal- 
kenberg, unfolds to a protestant philosophic mind, 
one cause of the universal social and moral obli- 
quity that predominates here. The picture is that 
of a young woman, with rather flushed face, kneel- 
ing behind an old man clad in the attire of a cath- 
olic priest, his head inclines to catch the words she 
tremblingly whispers in his ear; we pause to hear 
them; " Pater peccavi /" (Father I have sinned). 
Forgiveness is easily obtained, and paves the way 
for repetition. 

The educating influence of such pictures in these 
conspicuous places is past estimating, especially 
when they are praised by the great and learned. 

The art galleries of Europe are what Catholic 
priests have made them, the people are very largely 
what the galleries have made them. If chastity 
is barely known it is because it is not desired. 



297 



The innate sense of purity is assisted just enough 
by the church to forbid that the sale of indi- 
gencies and the confessional should cease, while 
human nature has all the encouragement that the 
lewdest genius can suggest. It is a positive injury 
for any one to visit these places whose character 
is not formed; it is a risk to any one. Men of 
prestige should cry out against the lewd in art, 
unless the modesty that is praised be false and 
have no foundation in nature and the fitness of 
things. We of America are following in the wake 
of our ancestors : are we only behind them in reali- 
ty or following them astray ! French Infidelity 
and Russian Nihilism are only natural reactions. 

Beside the Kunstler Haus stands the elegant 
Music Freund adorned with the marble busts of 
Gluck, Haydn, Mozart, Beethoven, Schubert, Schu- 
mann, and many others. A little farther is Christ's 
church and Beethoven's monument in Bronze. 

All these places which I have mentioned are 
situated on an arc of the circular street called the 
Ringstrasse and suggest how splendid an appear- 
ance they must present. The whole of this street 
runs between lofty mansions, hotels, museums, 
galleries and beergardens fitted up like a park. 

I attended service in St. Stephen's church, 
Stephen's Platz or square. Said to be one of the 
noblest gothic edifices in Europe. The catholic 
worship is allgalike to me, and it is not necessary 
to explain it to those who have seen it and hardly 



298 



possible to those who have not. I ascended the 
tower, over 450 feet high, there being only two 
church steeples higher in the world, those of 
Strasburg and Cologne. 

I went to the Augustine church to see Canova's 
monument of the Arch duchess Maria Christina 
said to be one of his noblest works. In the 
Loretto Chapel of this church are the silver urns 
that contain the hearts of many members of the 
imperial family. 

We noticed a barefoot (not an uncommon thing) 
Capuchin priest sitting near the sidewalk reading 
on Sunday morning, and stopped to learn that he 
was so posing to arrest passers by, who should 
thus be made to read the advertisement of a " pan- 
optican show. ,: His trick was a success. 

All these Austrians go to church. I noticed 
little children, not over three and four years old, 
at church and worshipping, just as the old people 
did, kneeling before the crucifixes they passed, 
and images of Christ. All attend early and say 
their appointed number of prayers, and the re- 
mainder of the Sabbath, say after nine or ten 
o'clock, is converted into a holiday. They go by 
thousands into the country on excursions, as 
hundreds of tram-cars run daily, while all who 
do not go to the country go to the Prater or other 
beergarten. The Prater is the great place of con- 
course. I went out Easter Monday, and I and a 
Presbyterian minister who witnessed the scene, 



299 



estimated that there were no less than 100,000 
people in the Prater that day. It is a magnificent 
park, laid off into walks and drives, theaters, cir- 
cuses and beer-gartens. 

To say this number drank not less than 5,000' 
barrels of beer that day would appear extrav- 
agant until we state that we have it on good au- 
thority that one beer-haus in Munich consumes 
1,000 barrels daily. 

The Prater is in the Wieden suburb and con- 
tains the old exhibition building of 1873. We 
walked around it and judged it to be not less than 
half a mile long. It has been converted into a 
brewery ; it is too large for anything else ! 

A tram-car climbs from the city to the heights 
on the west by means of a cog-wheel ; we ascend- 
ed and had a nice view of the city and her envi- 
rons. It is novel to an American to see little boys 
of 7, 8 and 9 years carrying side arms, and dress- 
ed in- uniform, and of all ages carrying canes. 
They appear to be following the precept as they 
understand it — train up a child in the -way he 
should go and when he is old he will not depart 
from it. They want a soldier out of every man 
and so begin on him in time. And while these 
youngsters are in the cities and towns of Europe 
flirting with city girls, their sisters are at home 
doing all the farm work. It was a daily sight in 
Vienna to see pretty girls driving two-horse wag- 
ons from the country, when no doubt their broth- 



300 



ers were in the Austrian camp. It was the same 
going from town to town on the cars — the women 
were cultivating farms everywhere. Alas,when a na- 
tion must thus waste its productive forces in order 
to feel secure, while all the delicate sense of woman, 
that makes her queen of home and clothes her with 
native charms, is blunted by reducing her to a 
serf, with the task of feeding the family and supply- 
ing tax sufficient for the nourishment of her son, 
husband or brother, and the government besides. 
It was really amusing to see large dogs hitch- 
ed to one-horse wagons loaded with milk or 
vegetables, to lighten the draught otherwise fall- 
ing upon the market-woman. We took one 
morning to visit Shoenbrun,the magnificent "summer 
palace of the Emperor two miles from Vienna. 
We counted 1(35 windows on one side, which 
enables one to have some idea of its size. It is in 
harmony, externally and internally, with the style 
of Francis Joseph. All the entrances are guarded 
by gens d'armes, and though in this is like all Eu- 
ropean palaces, we are glad of the contrast in 
this respect between it and the White House. 

A pretty park covering more than a thousand 
acres surrounds Shoenbrun. It is laid off into 
many pretty walks and drives and beautified by 
fountains filled with fishes. Seats are placed at 
proper intervals, and it did me good to see the 
poor people walking through these royal gardens 
or resting by these beautiful spouting fountains. 



301 



One drive about one mile in length has a row of 
small oak trees on each side that seem to have 
been cut perpendicularly by a great plane, and 
then, about twenty feet above the ground, by a 
horizontal plane ; looking down this avenue from 
one end there seems to be a s'olid wall on each 
side of the drive ; not one twig an inch long pro- 
jects beyond the plane. 

In one Museum I saw figures in wax illustrating 
many kinds of disease. The flesh seemed to be pur- 
posely cutaway so as to expose the various organs 
affected in these diseases, and often many figures 
were reproduced to show the progress of the dis- 
ease ; bones were broken, often projecting through 
the flesh, polpoid growths were being extracted; 
eyes, ears, nose, throat and all were diseased and 
being relieved. The nervous, veinous, arterial and 
muscular systems with the viscera, were all shown, 
each to itself. One hardly knows which to ad- 
mire most, the one who dictated or the one who 
executed so skillfully for such an exhibition. 

The squares of Vienna are adorned with many 
equestrian statues. Belvedere gallery is the largest 
of the city and claimed my time one half day. 
Raphael's Madonna a la Verdure is here. Titian 
has a Madonna here, Corregio a Ganymede and 
an Io. One of the best pieces is, an Altar piece 
representing the Catholic, Greek, Jewish, Mahom- 
medan and Brahmin faiths. It has been the cus- 
tom for more than 250 years for the Austrian Em- 



302 

perors and their wives to wash the feet of twelve 
old men and twelve old women of the city on Fri- 
day before Easter, every year. They also send a 
table d* hote dinner and a bottle of wine to those 
whose feet they have washed. The suicide of the 
Kronprintz prevented all this this year. 

The Austrians are a healthy, good-natured look- 
ing set, fond of show and pleasure, and mostly 
have blue eyes. They are all Catholics, and badly 
priest-ridden. I copy a few extracts from a con- 
fidential circular placed in my hands: 

The object of this communication is to give a few par- 
ticulars of a quiet work for the Lord which has been 
carried on for some time at* province of Austria. The 
indiscriminate publication of details in Christian journals 
is, in this case, an impossibility, as in consequence of the 
lack of religious liberty in this country, all aggressive 
evangelistic effort, especially that of an undenomina- 
tional character, is practically prohibited, and it is only 
by acting with the greatest prudence and by keeping 
carefully within the letter of the law that such work can 
be done. We therefore earnestly request those Chris- 
tians into whose hands this may fall to regard the com 
munications it contains as confidential, and to exercise care 
that the circular may not fall into the hands of Jesuit spies, 
who are constantly on the watch for any streak of light 
on this priest-ridden land, and whose influence upon the 
authorities and people at large is so great that they often 
succeed in putting an end to all efforts. 

Public Gospel meetings as they can be held in Eng- 



* Should the names of places and men he published in America 
they would he sent hack to Austria hy Catholics here. 



303 



land France and Italy, being forbidden in Austria we 
can only have private gatherings in our own dwelling 
wHh a Lited nnmber of people, whom we must — 

personally by cards. ..„, is ,,,, 

The great centre of attraction m our meetings is 
B 2 °By far the majority of our attendants had never 
seen a copy of the Word of God ere they came to us 

One X that strikes them forcibly is the love of God 
in providing a fr*e salvation. Their own system is just 
VZl ;Vn the cradle to the grave it is pay, pay 
mv for a u the "consolations of religion. More man 
. L have poor people offered me mone, .when I visaed 
(at their request) sick relatives read the Kbta ^ to and 
prayed with them. When I asked them why they offered 
Loney they said, "Oh, for your beautiful prayer. Of 
riJ I reused to' take the offered money. This £ J 
surmised them, and they made such remarks as the.e 
"Why don't you take it 1 Our priests do nothing without 
ZX and "what they say and do is not ■«££*£ 
and comforting to our hearts as your words and pray ers 

Here * * * in addition to the usual meetings (three 
W S), we have the visitation of the sic* though he 
Pvan-elist is not free to visit uninvited. Buttneieque 
*2 are very frequent, and -tthan^Uy ■*«-. 
of course being always accompanied by r * 
Scriptures and prayer. On °- ™ * ^Jf™ one 
vited to meet a few friends gathered in »^ 
of our regular attendants, and to spend a little time i 
:X the Bible and prayer. While we £» og^he 
» request was brought to me to pray for the mother o 
o{ those present, who, after a long and painful *-, 
was lying apparently at the point of death, the medical 
lendant having declared that there was no hope of he 
recovery. We prayed very earnestly that if it weie 



304 



Lord's will He would restore her to health for the sake of 
her family. Next day her son came to report that from 
"that very hour'''' a great change had taken place. The 
seemingly dying woman recovered consciousness, sat up 
and spoke to those around, and to the surprise of all she 
was in a few days able to leave her bed, and was quickly 
restored to health. Thus the Lord magnified His Name 
in the hearing and answering prayer in so wonderful 
a manner that all those who had been present could not 
but acknowledge the fulfilment of the promise, " Whatso- 
ever ye ask," etc. As a result of this occurrence, the sick 
woman, as soon as able, attended our meetings, with her 
husband and family and have been regular visitors ever 
since, several of them having left the Romish Church 
openly. During the past year not a few have made, an 
open profession of faith by coming out from Rome and 
declaring themselves Protestants, giving notice to the 
authorities of the step they have taken. This is required 
by the law of the land, and often has very serious conse- 
quences for the business or profession of those who have 
the courage to do it. 

We have also a lending library, and carefully selected 
books, all presenting Gospel truth, are lent to any who 
wish for them. During my summer wanderings I note 
the names and addresses of any persons who seem to 
appreciate evengelical literature, and during the winter 
many a packet of tracts, small books, or a New Testa- 
ment finds its way, by post, to an Alpine valley or a way- 
side village, where it is read and lent to manj^ in the 
neighborhood. 

Our regular attendants belong exclusively to the poorer 
classes, some being in winter so destitute that we feel 
obliged to minister to their necessities. Notwithstanding 
this, they contribute their weekly offering, which as it 



305 

consists chiefty of single kreutzers, (one-fifth of a penny,) 
does not suffice for the warming and lighting of the room. 

An idea of the spiritual condition of the people in these 
lands may be gathered from the fact, that on the occasion 
of my pointed enquiry, I found that of the thirteen 
persons who met with me eleven had never seen a copy 
of the Scriptures till they were brought in contact with 
evangelical services. 

It is not without hazard that visits can be made to the 
sick, even when the evangelist has been invited to the 
invalid's house. 



CHAPTER XXXIII. 



FROM VIENNA TO LONDON. 



Advantages of slow travelling. — Fairyland anol Farm 
land. — Russia's Way. — Walhalla. — Nuremburg. - - 
Wurtzburg, Legend of the Minnesinger. — Frankfort- 
on-tbe-Main, Ariadne, Lost in town, Kaiser-saal, &c. 
— Heidelberg, Molkencur, Castle, University, &c, — 
Worms, Luther Platz. — The Grandest Sight. — Ger- 
man Soldiers to the manner born. — Maintz. — The 
Rhine. — Bonn.— Cologne, finest Cathedral. Finest 
Music, German Catholic method. — Aix-la-chapelle. — 
Spa. Oldest watering place. — Belgium, Waterloo. 

FROM VIENNA TO LONDON. 

OUR train rolled out of the grand Westbahn 
hoff on the clear crisp, frosty morning of 
April 24th, bound for Frankfort-on-the-Main. I 
took a slow train because they often stop over two, 
four and six hours, giving the hurried tourist time 
to see man}'- places he would have to pass by if 
on the limited express ; also the slow trains are 
used by the common people while the fast trains 
are chiefly used by the wealthy and I wished to 
see all I possibly could of the middle and lower 
classes; the rich are about the same the world 
over. • 

Soon after leaving Vienna the mountains of 
Styria and Tyrol appeared far off to the left and 



307 



covered with snow seemed to lift a warning hand 
that Switzerland was too cold and must be passed 
by. All day we fly over the most pleasing land- 
scapes; all the land that is cleared is in a fine 
state of cultivation. If it is clothed in verdure 
every foot is occupied, if it is fallowed, every inch 
is broken, if a canal passes through it does not 
monopolize, just so much as is necessary is taken 
for the water, the remainder is utilized in some 
other way. If some is left to sustain its native 
forest the decaying trees and shrubs are removed 
and every part presents the finish of agricultural 
and horticultural skill, and nature herself has 
woven these landscapes into lovely shapes as deft 
fingers do the drapery of dress. Baedeker says 
of this section, " No other district in Germany offers 
such a variety of charming scenery within so 
small a compass." 

Passau, the first town reached in Germany, at 
the confluence of the Inn and Danube is a beauti- 
ful town that really looks more rustic than city- 
like. We spent an hour here looking round and 
getting rid of Austrian florins and kreutzers for 
German marks and pfennigs. 

I met a gentlemen here who spoke English ; 
we took a compartment together to Nuremburgh. 
He was a native Russe, and spoke freely of the 
efforts made by Russia to capture Servia and Bul- 
garia by flooding those sections with political and 
religious (Greek) literature from Moscow and other 



308 

great centers of Russia, and expressed himself as 
of opinion that they were about ready to ally 
themselves to Russia. 

We pass near Regensburg, the Walhalla or 
Temple of Fame, called also Deucher Ehren, 
modeled after the Parthenon at Athens, built fifty 
or sixty years ago by Louis I. of Bavaria. The 
entablature is adorned with sculptures by Wagner, 
illustrating Germany's ancient history, below are 
a hundred busts of eminent Germans. The 
grounds about the building are admirably laid out, 
and command a fine view. The whole is on a 
height overlooking the Danube and cit}\ 

I stopped four hours in Nuremburg, which gave 
me time to see the old high-gabled houses with 
stone balconies ; the double wall, 800 years old, 
whose lofty tower called the Burg I climbed to get 
a better view of the town and its environs. The 
Rathhaus, or town hall, was about to be closed for 
the day, but a few pfennigs turned the key back- 
wards, and I saw within. It is a rare building 
and has connection with famous deeds ; it contains 
Albert Durer's best works in frescoes, and a very 
fine painting of himself painting Maximilian 
the Great, also a fine portrait of Faber, of lead 
pencil notoriety. I saw there the lion of "Red- 
wine and White-wine" fame, and sat in the royal 
chair of Leopold I. The Shoene Brunnen, or beau- 
tiful fountain, deserves the name. 



309 



In the valley of the Pegnitz, where across broad meadow lands, 
Kise the blue Franconian mountains, Nuremberg, the ancient, 
stands. 

Quaint old town of toil and traffic— quaint old town of art and song, 
Memories haunt thy painted gables, like the rooks that round them 
throng: 

Memories of the Middle Ages, when the Emperors, rough and bold, 
Had their dwelling in thy Castle, time-defying, centuries old; 

And thy brave and thrifty burghers boasted, in their uncouth 

rhyme, 
That their great imperial city stretched its hand through every 

clime. 

Everywhere I see around me rise the wondrous world of Art, 
Fountains wrought with richest sculpture standing in the com- 
mon mart; 

And above Cathedral doorways saints and bishops carved in stone, 
By a former age commissioned as apostles to our own. 

Here, when Art was still religion, with a simple, reverent heart, 
Lived and labored Albrecht Diirer, the Evangelist of Art: 

Here Hans Sachs, the cobbler-poet, laureate of the gentle craft, 
Wisest of the Twelve Wise Masters,in huge folios sang and laughed. 

But his house is now an ale-house, with a nicely sanded floor, 
And a garland in the window, and his face above the door; 

And at night the swart mechanic comes to drown his cark and 

care, 
Quaffing ale from pewter tankards, in the master's antique chair. 

Not thy Councils, not thy Kaisers, win for thee the world's regard; 
But thy painter, Albrecht Diirer, and Hans Sachs, thy cobbler-bard 

Thus, O Nuremberg, a wanderer from a region far away, 
As he paced thy streets and court-yards, sang in thought his care- 
less lay: 

Gathering from the pavement's crevice, as a floweret of the soil, 

The nobility of labor— the long pedigree of toil. 

Longfellow. 



310 



From Nuremburg we ran down to Wurzburg on 
the Main, reaching there a short while before day. 
As I was to leave at sunrise, and as there was a 
good restaurant in the Station, I did not go to a 
hotel ; here I received the first hospitality I had 
known for many weeks. An attendant at the de- 
pot invited me to his room and supplied me with 
water, soap, towel and comb, which I supposed 
was designed to secure a small perquisite ; this he 
refused, however, when offered, and only received 
it whenfl insisted. I was anxious to go across the 
Main and visit the monument of Walter of Vo- 
gelweid, the Minnesinger of whose Will Longfel- 
low says : 

"And he gave the monks his treasures, 

Gave them all with this hehest: 
They should feed the hirds at noontide 

Daily on his place of rest ; 

Saying, 'From these wandering minstrels 

I have learned the art of song; 
Let me now repay the lessons 

They have taught so well and long.' 

"Thus the hard of love departed ; 

And, fulfilling his desire, 
On his tomh the hirds were feasted 

By the children of the choir. 

"Thus they sang their merry carols- 
Sang their lauds on every side ; 

And the name their voices uttered 
Was the name of Vogelweid." 

The town is also noted for the manufacture of 
fine wines from the vineyards seen along the rail- 



311 

way, and for the medical department of its Uni- 
versity. I saw three Japanese students in the Sta- 
tion who had been smoking and drinking beer all 
night. 

We dash down and across the Main, through 
tunnels, over bridges, through green fields and for- 
ests of maple, cypress and oak. 

I reached Frankfort, the home of one of the 
Rothchilds and birthplace of Goethe, at 8 o'clock, 
A. M. The Ariadne, Danneker's masterpiece, in 
Bethmann's "Museum, is a solid piece of marble 
representing this beautiful daughter of Crete as 
left by Theseus and found by Bacchus, seated on 
a lion. She sits sidewise on the beast looking over 
her right shoulder. The poet-sculptor clothes her 
with that happy freedom from care that we wel- 
come in any face, and that laxity of restraint for 
which the artist refuses any substitute. Leaving 
the Ariadneum I mistook the directions of the 
keeper, and was soon lost; having only my Ger- 
man to fall back upon, I asked many a time, the 
best I could, the way to the Stadel Gallery, and 
sometimes got plain directions, accompanied by 
appropriate motions of the head and hands, the lat- 
ter of which conveyed more intelligence to my mind 
than the best German ; often I would pause in 
front of a fellow-pedestrian with my stereotyped 
Wo ist Stadel Museum f He would very often look 
straight at me, as if astonished, and reply : " Ich 
verstehe nicht. mein Herr." Again I would approach 



312 



some one who was evidently a stranger, like 
myself, he would merely shrug his shoulders and 
pass on. 

" To sit on rocks, to muse o'er flood and fell, 

To slowly trace the forest's shady scene, . 
Where things that own not man's dominion dwell, 

And mortal foot hath ne'er or rarely been, 
To climb the trackless mountain all unseen, 

With the wild flocks that never need a fold 
Alone o'er steeps and foaming falls to lean— 

This is not solitude, 'tis but to hold 
Converse with nature's charms, to view her stores unrolled. 

" But in the city's hum, the din, the shock o"f men, 

To hear, to see, to feel, and to possess 
And roam along the world's tired denizen, 

With none to bless us, none whom we can bless. 
Minions of splendor shrinking from distress, 

None who, with kindred consciousness endued, 

None who if we were not would smile the less 
Of all who followed, flattered, sought and sued, 

This is to be alone ; this, this is solitude." 

I instinctively carry my reckoning, like the 
mule or lower animals generally, but lost it alto- 
gether in Frankfort, and only began to find myself 
after I had gone over the " Cock and Devil " 
bridge, as it is called, because the architect con- 
signed the first living thing, that should cross it, 
to the bottomless pit ; this proved to be a cock, a 
large figure of which is placed on one of the pillars 
that extends several feet above the floor, also one 
of Charlemange is near by. Like the Seine at Paris, 
and the Thames at London, so at Frankfort the 
Main runs between stone walls and over a macad- 
amized bed. Once over this bridge I had to go 



313 



down the river half a mile to the museum, and 
the tops of steeples and other high objects all be- 
came so adjusted in my mind that I had no 
farther difficulty. 

The Stadel gallery contains several Madonnas 
(portraits of the virgin Mary) which are classed 
among noted paintings, an altar-piece by Fra An- 
gelico, and imitations of the Venus de Medici, La- 
ocoon, Wrestlers, &c. A very fine painting of the 
Ten Virgins suggested the lines of Meredith, 
" When their lamps began to nicker " : 

" One still as death, hollowed her hand about her lamp, 

For fear some motion of the midnight, or her breath 

Should fan out the last flicker. 

Rosy clear the light oosed through her fingers o'er her face, 

There was a ruined beauty hovering there, 

Over deep pain, and dashed with lurid glare— 

A waning gloom." 

The Kaisersaal, which contains frescoe portraits 
of all the German emperors from Konrad L, 911, 
to Francis II., 1806, and the clock given by 
Napoleon I., claimed me an hour, after which I 
went to the Dom to see the Dead Christ by Van 
Dyck, and an altar-piece in wood representing the 
crucifixion. I made a hurried visit to the beauti- 
ful Palmgarten, the monuments of Schiller and 
Gutenberg and leave for Heidelberg, passing Darm- 
stadt, in which we see from the cars the war 
monument of Ludwig Einster, 1870-1. 

Almost every foot of land is cultivated from 
Darmstadt to Heidelberg ; it is rented out in small 



314 



patches ; often one farmer has a patch fifty yards 
wide and three hundred long in wheat, beside that 
and about the same size one is newly ploughed for 
corn or some other crop ; the land for many miles 
is laid off this way, and I was told that one 
man had possession of only a few acres.. In the 
distance to our left I saw on the heights several 
towers. 

At nightfall I reached the old University town 
of Heidelberg, made up of 16000 protestants, 9000 
catholics and 2000 Jews. After a good night's 
rest, I took a guide and went to the Molkencur, a 
very high mountain overlooking the city and 
valley. My guide pointed out one of the largest 
cement factories in the world, the valley over the 
Neckar where the students fight duels three times a 
week, a church half Catholic and half Protestant, 
each denomination worshipping in it every Sab- 
bath, and the old castle, which has been destroyed 
by the French, by lightning, and is now in the 
hands of the ever successful destroyer, Time. 

We will go down from this splendid observatory 
to look through the historic edifice. It is reached 
by crossing a draw-bridge, over a very large moat, 
then through the gate in which hangs still the pon- 
derous portcullis, and we are in the open court, 
where sixteen of the electors of Palatine, done in 
stone, look down from their niches in the lofty 
walls. In a museum of antiquities, seen for twenty 
pfennigs, there are many old swords and all the 



315 



machinery of ancient battle, keys heavy as a mat- 
tock, mugs, moneys, postilion boats truly mon- 
strous, model of the castle, Molkencur. Konigs 
Stohl and plan of the city made of cork by a 
cook, securing for him a fortune. Below is the 
great Tun, holding 50,000 gallons of wine ; it has 
eighteen hoops 8 x 10 inches the two at the ends 
being 8 x 14 inches. It has been filled three times,, 
the last time was in 1769, by Charles Theodor, 
elector of Bavaria, on the top is a platform where 
about six or eight persons can dance, which they 
did on the occasion of filling the Tun. 

The great university founded by Rupert Carolo,. 
elector of Palatine in 1487, contains his bust in the 
aula, or assembly hall. Around the front of the 
gallery are the names of many of their noted 
professors, while the ceiling has female figures 
representing the sciences of Theology, Law, Medi- 
cine and Philosophy. 

I went from H. to Maintz, stopping two hours 
in Worms to see the Luther Platz, which contains 
his monument. He is standing with upturned 
face on which is depicted conviction, courage, in- 
telligence, purpose ; in his left hand he holds the 
Bible, his right is closed and rests on the Bible:. 
below are cut in the stone the words : 

Hier Stelie Ich. 
Ich Kann niclit Anders. 
Gott Hilf mir ! Amen ! 

which mean : Here I stand. I cannot retract 
God help me ! Amen! 



316 



The artist was most happy in the execution of 
his task ; one seems to be in the presence of the 
living hero of 1521. I saw nothing else while trav- 
eling that sent the involuntary thrill through every 
nerve as did this statue. 

There is no grander exhibition on earth than a 
man, to whom God has committed a trust, not 
recognized by his cotemporaries, perhaps, but 
known to himself, and having the courage of his 
convictions, amid all opposition and persecution. 

It is a very interesting ride of one or two hours 
to Maintz. A bar or rail is put up at every rail- 
road crossing, and the sentry presents arms while 
the train is passing ; every private soldier salutes 
every officer he passes, though they may be on 
opposite sides of very wide streets, filled with 
carriages or wagons. 

Maintz is one of the best fortified cities in Eu- 
rope, and contains many fine monuments. The 
Cathedral is said to be the richest in monuments 
of any in Europe. I only took time to hurry 
through it; I had seen so many and so much that 
was revolting in all, that the Tablet to Fastrada, 
wife of Charlemagne, and Schwanthaler's monu- 
ment to Frauenlob, the pious minstrel of the Holy 
Virgin, were all I noticed particularly. The Rhine 
has been written about so much that I hesitate to 
say anything; the scenery to Bonn, birthplace of 
Beethoven and seat of the University, is wild and 
attractive ; the perpendicular hills are crowned 



31' 



with old towers, the sloping ones ornamented with 
terraces, growing grapes. We reached Cologne 
about sundown. I stopped within one square of 
the Cathedral, thought by some to be the grandest 
Gothic structure in the world, being 500 feet high; 
it has one door or portal (on the south) that cost 
$500,000 ; it has a chapel called the Chapel of the 
Three Kings, said to contain the bones of the Magil 
I attended the Church of England services on 
Sunday, which seemed designed for, as they were 
attended only by visitors. The Sabbath was used 
for a holiday, after the early morning service, say 
nine to ten o'clock, in Cologne as in Vienna. I 
went to the Cathedral before breakfast on Sunday 
to find it almost filled at that early hour. They 
had the finest music I ever heard, which was kept 
up nearly all day ; when one division of the choir 
would sing until exhausted, another would be 
called on. I went to St. Andrew's (Catholic) 
Church before breakfast Monday morning. About 
200 children were at prayers, with about a dozen 
ladies, all led by a little girl not over ten years old. 
She would utter several invocations, pause and 
be followed by the congregation repeating the last 
sentence or uttering a responsive prayer. They 
had stepped into this church on their way to 
school, as they do every morning, and as their 
minds are developed their hearts and habits are 
fixed about the altars of the church. And obser- 
vation teaches that it is equally difficult to eradica 



318 



the knowledge obtained from the one, as the devo- 
tion developed from the other. 

The church of St. Peter has for an altar-piece 
Rubens' "Crucifixion of St. Peter," which is 
thought to be very superior; the head is down- 
wards. Near by, at No. 10 Sternengasse, is shown 
the house in which Peter Paul Rubens was born, 
1577, and Maria de Medici died in exile 16-12. 

The Rathhaus, about six hundred years old, is a 
splendid city hall dedicated to the Caesars. The 
bronze equestrian statue of William III, places 
him high above the men who graced and sup- 
ported his regime, and others of the cult of Blucher 
and Von Humboldt. 

At 12 M., on the third day after reaching Cologne, 
we took the cars for Brussels, which we reached 
at 9 o'clock the same evening, passing on the way 
Aix-la-Ohapelle, the birth-place and favorite resi- 
dence of Charlemagne. For several hundred 
years after Charlemagne's death. the German em- 
perors were crowned at Aix. 

At this place both Charlemagne and his wife 
Fastrada died. He was buried in the octagonal 
nave built by himself in a marble chair which was 
afterwards used for a coronation chair. About a 
mile or two from the railway one can see the 
Frankenburg, a hunting-seat of the great Charles. 
It is said the water surrounding the Castle w T as a 
lake, into which his wife's ring was thrown. 



319 

" Thou kno west the story of herring, 
How, when the court went hack to Aix, 
Frastada died ; and how the King 
Sat watching hy her night and day, 
Till into one of the Mue'lakes 
Which water that delicious land 
They cast the ring drawn from her hand ; 
And the great monarch sat serene ' 
And sad heside the fated shore, 
Nor left the land forevermore." 

Longfellow's "Golden Legend." 

We soon reached Liege, a factory town, and the 
first in Belgium. A train with two hundred pas- 
sengers dashed in from Spa, the oldest watering 
place in Europe, of any note. As it only costs 
from one to three cents per mile to travel in Bel- 
gium, and as it is the most populous country in 
the world for its size, there is much travel. 
Chaude Fontaine, another watering place, was on 
the line of our road and looks somewhat like 
Piedmont Springs, in Burke County, N. C. 

The entire face of the country in Belgium is as 
pretty as a picture. The next morning after reach- 
ing Brussels I went out to see the field of Water- 
loo, twelve miles from the city. A large mound 
has been built in the center of the field, about 800 
feet west of where Wellington's headquarters 
were during the fateful day, and very near, the 
position of the impregnable square, behind which 
was the road into which 

"Rider and horse, friend and foe, in one red hurial Went." 

The top of the mound is reached by ascending 



320 



200 steps. It is surmounted by a granite base of 
huge proportions, on which stands a lion with his 
head turned towards France and one fore foot 
resting on a globe. This signifies so much to the 
Frenchman that my guide said only few of them 
visit Waterloo at all. I was very fortunate in hav- 
ing a guide well posted on the history of the move- 
ments made by all the leaders in that crisis of the 
world's history. 

Napoleon had approached to within a few hun- 
dred yards of Wellington's position, when Blu- 
cher arrived. Wellington had alhthe advantage in 
position from one side of the field to the other. 
But such battles are determined by the Friend of 
the nations and not by the "heaviest artillery." 

Some one has said that Napoleon never wrote 
an important document without using the word 
"glory," as if that were his tahsman, and Welling- 
ton likewise always used the word "duty." And 
on this field of carnage the world has been taught 
the superiority and triumph of duty over glory. 



CHAPTER XXXIV. 



IN LONDON. 



London. — A home-like feeling. — The "Bank." — 'Busses. — 
Travel on the Great Thoroughfares. — Elevated and 
Underground Rail Roads. — 5,000,000 of People, How 
Placed. — " What shall we do with our Cities ?" — Hu- 
manitarians. — Sights to be Seen. — May Meetings. — 
The English in Meeting. — The English in History, 
Poetry, Literature, Government and Religion. — 
Churchmen and Dissenters. — Churchmen and the 
Papacy. — Victoria's policy. — The Wesleyan's. City 
Road Chapel, Wesley's House and Furniture. — His 
Tomb amongst honored Co-laborers. — Bunhill Fields,. 
Mrs. Wesley's Epitaph. 

LEAVING Brussels, one hour sufficed to reach 
Antwerp, a well fortified town on the Scheldt 7 
on the borders of Holland. Next morning at six' 
we were seated in an English railway carriage on 
British soil and enjoyed a peace of mind that was 
new. I felt like talking much, like one after a 
long fast enjoys a sumptuous table d'hote, and. 
indulged freely with a Londoner and a gentleman 
from Vienna. The country along our route was 
cleared of timber as in most European States, but 
the farmhouses and farms were more like those I 
had been used to at home. I missed soldiers, 
ubiquitous on the Continent. 

At nine o'clock I stood on one of the streets of 
the busiest metropolis of the world, inquiring for 



322 



a 'bus that would take me to Smith's Temperance 
Hotel, Southampton Kow. I was directed to go 
to the Bank, near by. There are hundreds of 
banks in London, but only one is known as the 
"Bank." From that point omnibusses go in all 
directions and every one or two minutes, for one 
penny a mile. Every one goes loaded, and the 
number of pedestrians do not appear to be di- 
minished. In fact so dense is the travel on the 
main thoroughfares that it is often difficult to 
leave a store for the want of a place in the throng? 
but once in one is moved along almost involun- 
tarily. This is true any day on Cheapside, the 
Strand, Oxford street or Holborn. On these streets 
police are stationed about every hundred yards in 
the center of the street to direct vehicles to the 
left side, order them to stop or move along, and 
give every one a fair opportunity to change his 
location, a privilege his individual self-assertion is 
often inadequate to obtain. There are several 
elevated railways, and London underground is 
said to be honey-combed with railroads. There 
is one place where 1200 trains pass daily, or one 
nearly every minute. These are necessary to ac- 
commodate the vast numbers of a city that is a 
cosmos in itself. There are 5,000,000 of inhabit- 
ants occupying about 200 square miles. Allowing 
a third for streets, parks, gardens and the Thames, 
there would be sixty persons to the acre. If four 
houses were built on every acre, and every house 



323 



three stories high, there would be a family of five 
for every story or fifteen to every house. As many 
of the wealthy have large yards and gardens and 
small families, ODe can conjecture how densely 
must be populated the poorer districts; often fifty 
or more are crowded into one tenement dwelling. 
This is a fruitful source of both crime and disease, 
and the wiser heads are trying to devise means for 
the amelioration of these evils. "What shall we do 
with our cities?" has long been a ^question among 
European philanthroph-ists and economists. In- 
vestigation reveals that there are no people in 
London whose ancestry could be traced back for 
four successive generations in the city. One way 
of checking the evil is to open up large public 
parks and gardens, but the desire to be near their 
work on the part of the poor and the increased 
income from rents, influences the wealthy to crowd 
as many as possible into every house that is for 
rent, and thus Mammon sways to the ignoring of 
the good laws ordained of God for man's well-being. 
Those who most need to obey these laws of health 
are ignorant of them, and have not the power if 
they had the wisdom to observe them. Those who 
know of them and have the power to see them 
observed more generally, have not the will to help 
any but themselves. 

There are many institutions, built by charity, 
for poor children. I saw representatives from 
sixty-six institutions for the governing and train 



324 



ing of destitute and criminal children. It was in 
St. James' Hall. They numbered 600, and were 
trained to sing, march, and perform in pantomime 
with almost perfect precision. I also attended a 
meeting of the " London Society for Prevention 
of Cruelty to children " held at the Mansion House, 
with the announcement that " The Right Hon. the 
Lord Mayor will Preside" This announcement al- 
ways secures a full attendance. The meeting 
was addressed by H. E. Cardinal Manning, Hon. 
A. F. Mundilla, M. P., A. K. Rollit, M. P., and 
others. About this and other meetings I will speak 
elsewhere. 

The sights of London are too numerous to be 
catalogued, a list of the most interesting is kept at 
all the hotels for gratuitous distribution ; to write 
them up would be to write almost a history of 
England. The May Meetings were of most inter- 
est to me because I wished to learn how the Eng- 
lish churches met and carried their responsibilities. 

The following list was on the calendar for con- 
sideration from April 11th to July 7th. Some of 
them occupied five or six meetings : 

London Young Women's Christian Association, Paris 
City Mission, Inst. Educate Daughters of Missionaries, 
Widows' Friend Society, Strangers' Home for Asiatics, &c, 
Orphan Working School, Salvation Army, Baptist Union 
Home Mission, Monthly Tract Society, Wesleyan Mission- 
ary Society, Baptist Missionary Society, Asylum for. Id- 
iots, Regent's Park College, Wesleyan Missionary Society. 



325 



Ladies' Auxiliary, Baptist Chapel Building Fund, Regent's 
Park College, Young Men's Baptist Mission Association, 
City of London Total Abstainers' Union, British and For- 
eign Bible Society, Religious Tract Society, Trinitarian 
Bible Society, National Temperance League, Home and 
Colonial School Society, South American Missionary So- 
ciety, Baptist Union, Church Missionary Society, Sunday 
School Union, Wesleyan Home Missions, Bible Christian 
Missionary Society, Church Missionary Society, Pres. Ch. 
of Eng. Synod's Miss. Meeting, Baptist Zenana Mission, 
Missionary Leaves Association, Midnight Meeting Move- 
ment, Missions to Seamen, Colonial and Continental 
Church Society, Baptist Total Abstinence Association, 
Bible Translation Society, Samaritan Free Hos. for Wo- 
men and Children, Liberation Society, Church Pastoral 
Aid Society, London Society for Promoting Christianity 
among the Jews, Sunday School Continental Mission, Lon- 
don City Mission, Reformatory and Refuge Union, Ch. of 
Eng. Women's Mis. Association, Navy Mission, Gover- 
nesses' Benevolent Institution, Ch. of Eng. Zenana Mis- 
sionary Society, Moravian Missions (London Association), 
Royal Naval Female School, Ch. of Eng. Temp. Soc. (Ju- 
venile Union), Church of England Temperance Society, 
British and Foreign Sailor's Society, London Missionary 
Society, Church Association, Cong. Union of England and 
Wales, Ragged School Union, Church of England Sunday 
School Inst., Pastor's College, Cong. Total Abstinence As- 
sociation, Irish Church Missions, Sailor's Welcome Home, 
Cong. Ch. Aid and Home Missionary Society, Mariners' 
Friend Society, British and Foreign Sailors' Society, 
United' Kingdom Band of Hope Union, Thames. Church 
Mission, Cong. Pastors' Retiring and Widows' Funds, 
London Evang. Society and Lodging House Mission, Irish 
Evangelical Society, Christian Socialist Society, Church 



326 



of England Young Men's Society, Zenana Bible and Med- 
ical Mission, British Honie for Incurables, Church of Eng- 
land Temperance Society (Total Abstinence Sctn), Colo- 
nial Missionary Society, Operative Jewish Converts, Lon- 
don Missionary Society (Women's Work), Church of 
England's Temperance Society (Women's Union), Chris- 
tian Vernacular Educational Society for India, Congrega- 
tional Church Guilds, Working Men's Lord's Day Rest 
Association, Seamen and Boatmen's Friend Society, Sea- 
men's Christian Friend Society. Mariner's Friend Society, 
U. M. F. C. Home and Foreign Missionary Society, New- 
port and Isle of Wight Conference, Society for Preven- 
tion of Cruelty to Children, Society for Relief of Distressed 
Widows, Home Teaching Society for the Blind, Evangel- 
ical Alliance, British Society for Prop. Gospel among Jews, 
Turkish Missions Aid Society, Sons of Clergy, Country 
Towns Mission, Church of England Scripture Reader's 
Association, Baptist Tract and Book Society, Evangelical 
Continental Society, Railway Mission, British and For- 
eign School Society, National Prohibition Part}', Aged 
Pilgrims' Friend Society, Metropolitan Tab. Colportage 
Association, Primitive Methodist Missionary Society, 
British Women's Temperance Association, St. James's 
Home for Female Inebriates, Peace Society, Dr. Barnar- 
do's Homes, Aborigines Protection Society, Christian 
Evidence Society, Spanish and Portuguese Church Aid 
Society, Field Lane Refuge and Ragged Schools, Gospel 
Temperance General Committee, Royal Naval Scripture 
Readers Society, Central Young Men's Christian Associa- 
tion, Reformatory and Refuge Union, Open- Air Mission, 
Christian Community, Army Scripture Readers' Society, 
N. Lond. Home for Aged Christian Blind, Infant Orphan 
Asylum, China Inland Mission, Hazelwood Home for 
Com. Young Men, Children's Special Service Mission, 



327 

Eagged Church and Chapel Union, Society for Suppres- 
sion of Opium Trade, Indigent Blind Visiting Society, 
Propagation of Gospel in Foreign Parts, British and For- 
eign Unitarian Association, Ryl. Alfrd. Aged Merchant 
Sinn's. Institution, Stockwell Orphanage, London Sunday- 
School Choir, English Church Union. 

As Bishop Marvin said, the English have their 
own way of doing things. At all of the meetings 
which I attended, about twenty, everything was 
cut and dried beforehand. The questions to be 
discussed were printed. The mover of every mo- 
tion, and the one appointed to second it, and the 
words of the motion were all on a printed circular. 
The speech of the putter of the motion was some- 
times read. No place is allowed for extemporane- 
ous speechifying. Generally effort was made to 
secure the endorsement of my Lord, so and so, by 
putting him in the chair or announcing that he 
would be present. 

These Lords and bishops keep the first places 
at a distance from all whose qualification to fill 
them comes by any other way than by inheritance 
or royal favor. 

They put on the greatest imaginable stiffness 
and behave as if they thought the matter at hand 
were worthy to monopolize the world of thought 
for a decade or two. The audience appear to accept 
the interpretation put upon it and cheer to the echo 
such periods as are commonly used all over our 
country, and cry Hear, hear, to ordinary truisms. 



328 



Their preparation always prevents confusion and 
I judged they moved so slowly only because their 
common people were so far behind ours. In the 
matter of collections, however, they are ahead of 
us. I never attended any service in church or 
public hali that a collection was not taken, nearly 
every one contributing. 

What I have said does not imply that Great 
Britain has not led the world in literature, poetry 
and government, as well as in religion. She has. 
If her form of government is not equal to ours, in 
our judgment it is in their opinion superior, and 
may be superior, when we consider the character 
of their subjects. Our fore-fathers brought away 
the best conceptions of government then existing 
and the best class of citizens the world could then 
furnish with which to maintain such a govern- 
ment when it should be formed. England has 
done more than we in the matters mentioned 
above, but she has been many centuries at it. I 
told a patriotic Briton that we expected to have 
as many Poets and Literati after awhile as England. 
He said we did not have one whose name was as 
great, and who had lived before the world so long 
as Shakespeare. I told him just to wait until we 
lived to be as old a people as the British and he 
would see what he would see ! 

At these meetings it was plain to be seen that a 
war was going on between the established church 
and the dissenters. At several meetings of the 



329 



church of England in Exeter Hall, whenever 
evangelistical efforts were reported such as they 
were driven to adopt by dissenters there would be 
cheers loud and long. Frequent disparaging ref- 
erences were made to dissenters, while the dis- 
senters were loud in their complaints against an 
oppressive system that had to be supported by all 
the people, many of whom did not believe its 
doctrines. In Joseph Parker's church an order of 
court that had been issued for selling some poor 
man's property for taxes clue the established church 
was exhibited and much enthusiasm aroused 
against such a condition of things. Rev. Mr. 
Cleal said in City Temple at this same meeting 
that he had known the names of pupils taken in 
the day schools to compel them to attend the 
Sunday Schools of the English church. He said 
" Our opponents are hard to oppose because they 
drift in the spirit of the age." 

The dissenters are hopeful of a change and are 
faithfully bearing the testimony of Jesus. 

There are many Churchmen who are uneasy lest 
the Pope shall make greater inroads into England, 
he has already said:- "England is. doing well.". 
The " Tract movement," as the Catholics call if, 
converted thousands to Romanism. The Queen's 
private Secretary is a Catholic, and wise people 
know what that means. The alarm has been great 
enough to call forth much comment in the Church- 
man, specially on the occasion of Her Majesty's 



330 



visit to a convent while in Spain, and a poem 
which had a wide circulation, a stanza or two of 
which I copy : 

To-day the curse is in his heart, 

The while with lip he blesses ; 
Infidel— Godless England sees 

No harm in his caresses ; 
The maudlin men of " Modern Thought " 

Can grip no Standard truth ; 
And Jesuits in the English Church 

Have Romanised our youth ; 
The very throne has bowed itself 

At Leo's trampling feet ; 

Can God do otherwise than let 

Such sin with sorrow meet ? 

Beckon him on ! ! This blessing-Pope, 

He holds Victoria vile, 
And fain WOUld give her " Moonlight "fare, 

As in the Sister Isle ; 
" No faith with heretics," is still 

The Papal undertone ; 
And Englishmen axe fools, who think 

That Borne has kinder grown ; 
" Kill, kill," she says ; let Manning's words 

Our sad attention win, 

Or life or liberty goes OUt 

When Leo's power comes in. 

Victoria has a hard time, I presume ; while ev- 
erything I noticed seemed to indicate the greatest 
love and devotion. Each party is very jealous, 
and objects to any patronage being given to the 
others. Her policy seems to be to do at Rome as 
Romans do. In Scotland she attends the Presby- 
terian church, in Spain the Catholic, at home the 
Episcopal. 

One can see why she should defer to so great an 
extent to the Catholic church, when one remem- 
bers that Ireland is so largely Catholic and that 
50,000 of her troops are Catholic, besides those 
who live on English soil, and the further fact that 
her Majesty's interest in the East is protected by 



331 

the Catholic in the jealousy he bears towards the 
Greek church of Russia and the Slavonic States, 
All eastern people are ruled through their religion 
and to be stable in power the monarch must seem 
to be in sympathy with the majority. The Queen 
can afford to smile upon the church of Rome 
for the returns. The leaders of Society forgive her 
if their principles oppose, for their standing de- 
pends upon her patronage as well. And if the 
Jesuit is far more diligent and successful in im- 
proving every occasion, than the Protestant, no- 
body deserves so much blame as this same fault- 
finding Protestant. The propagation of any re- 
ligion depends upon natural laws (on the human 
side) which are as much the property of one in- 
dividual as another. 

Protestantism needs to learn the value of prin- 
ter's ink, as the Politician and Jesuit know it, as 
well as the worth of devotion to the task in hand. 

Mr. Spurgeon has learned this lesson and not 
only has written a great many books, but has or- 
ganized a thorough system of Colportage the an- 
nual meeting of which it was my privilege to 
attend in his Tabernacle ; it is working well. Mr. 
Wesley learned it, and wrote and sold books, with • 
what result is known too well to be repeated here. 

At several meetings of the Wesleyan Methodists 
I learned that they are trying to carry their share 
of the responsibility in supplying the people with 
the gospel. I was present at the opening of Cleve- 



332 



land hall, which is a Methodist church. The 
same meeting was protracted and many souls 
converted. 

The West End Mission is supplied by Revs. 
Hugh Price Hughes, who \p second only to Spur- 
geon as a popular leader among dissenters, and 
Mark Guy Pearce his colleague, both of whom I 
heard preach. 

I attended several services in City Road Chapel, 
in the church of John Wesley. It now has two 
preachers, one of whom, the Rev. Mr. Murrill, 
kindly showed me through Mr. Wesley's house. 
His study was a small room not over 7x8 feet, in 
it is the quaint old teapot from which he gave 
his preachers a cup of tea on every Sunday morn- 
ing, part of the spout is broken off and on each 
side is burned in blue letters a stanza used as a 
blessings before and after meals, one reads as 

follows : 

" Be present at our table Lord 
Be here, be every where adored, 
And in thy mercy, grant that we 
In paradise may sup with thee." 

The room in which Mr. Wesley died is a small 
room, in that is his book case and library. Mr. 
"Murrill said that Cyrus Field' had offered £500 for 
the Writing Desk and £100 for the Teapot; but no 
sum could purchase them. I was present at a 
tea-party in the parlor of the church and was in- 
vited to address the meeting. I also made a talk 
to their Sunday School, and preached in the even- 



333 



ing in the Mission Chapel. In the rear of trie- 
church is Wesley's tomb, which is very unpre- 
tentious consisting of a base about four by eight 
feet and about four feet high, on this rests a shaft 
six or seven feet high with the single word Wesley 
on one side, around him lie Clark, Watson, Benson 
and many others noted in Methodist history. 

Many tablets to their memory are in the walls 
of the church behind the altar and on either side. 

Across the street is Bunhill Fields Cemetery, 
once the chief burial place for non-conformists, 
but now disused. It contains the tombs of Watts, 
DeFoe, Bunyan, whose tomb has the figure of 
"Pilgrim," with a load upon his back. A Targe up- 
right marble slab, near the centre of the grounds,, 
contains the following : 

HERE LIES THE BODY OF 

MRS. SUSANNA WESLEY, 

WIDOW OF REV. S. WESLEY, M. A., 

YOUNGEST DAUGHTER OF REV. S. ANNESLEY, D. D., 

MOTHER OF NINETEEN CHILDREN, 

OF W r HOM THE MOST EMINENT WERE JOHN AND 
CHARLES, THE FORMER FOUNDER OF THE SOCIETIES 
CALLED METHODISTS 

In sure and steadfast hope to rise 
And claim her mansion in the skies; 
A Christian here her flesh laid down, 
The Cross exchanging for a crown. 



CHAPTER XXXV. 



FROM LONDON HOME. 



Noted Preachers of London. — Noted Churches. — The 
Tower. — Other Objects.— Waverly Route to Melrose. 
The Abbey, Abbotsford, Scott— Edinburgh. — Glas- 
gow. — Aboard once more. 

OF the noted preachers in London I heard 
Spurgeon, Canon Farrar, Hugh Price 
Hughes, Mark Guy Pearce, Newman Hall, Joseph 
Parker, and the Bishop of London. At the May 
Meetings I heard some dozens of preachers from 
the country, and Missionaries from the foreign 
fields. Besides the Colportage meeting in Spur- 
geon's Tabernacle, I was present on two Sundays 
. when he preached : both sermons were superior as 
to matter and delivery. His church has two ellip- 
tical galleries, each holding about 1,000, while the 
body of the house holds 4,000. It was full on both 
occasions. His voice was pitched on the proper 
key to fill the auditorium, and sustained through- 
out. He preaches an hour, and uses all the styles 
of sermonizing and delivery. He comments on 
the lesson before the sermon and pronounces the 
benediction, without song or prayer, after the ser- 
mon. He aims at immediate results, and preaches 
with great earnestness and unction. 



335 



I called on him one afternoon, for a few minutes. 
I said, Mr. Spurgeon, I am an American stopping 
for a short while in London, and, thought I would 
like to form your acquaintance. He smiled, ex- 
tended his hand and remarked : " Well, you have 
seen a great somebody, indeed." We conversed 
pleasantly a short while, and when I left, he said, 
'" May the Lord bless }^ou and give you a safe voy- 
age home." 

I attended a prayer-meeting, in a room of the 
Tabernacle, which is held every Sabbath from 
10:30 to 11 A. M., when prayer is offered for the 
Holy Ghost's presence and power to rest on Mr. 
Spurgeon, the members of the church, visitors 
and the unconverted who may attend. This was 
to my mind an explanation, largely, of how, for 
thirty years this great man has been so efficient in 
his Master's vineyard. 

Mark Guy Pearce is a Perfectionist, and while 
sensational, believes in the presence of the Holy 
Spirit and his willingness to do now all we need 
to have done if we are but willing. He preaches 
with much feeling. His colleague, H. Price 
Hughes, is very sensational. He attracts and con- 
trols large audiences. He is a great leader. 

Cannon Farrar preached in Westminster Ab- 
bey, and scores of people were turned away for 
want of even standing room. He read his ser- 
mon, and it was a piece of the splendid compo- 
sition for which he is so renowned. He has a 



336 



mellifluous voice, and his delivery was splendid 
considering the reading. 

Joseph Parker's City Temple is a most elegant 
church, with lecture room, study and parlors. He 
is a topical preacher; his style is elevated and 
stately ; he is a grand man to look at ; the dis- 
course to which I listened was not above an aver- 
age, but was enlivened occasionally by some 
startling statement or comment apropos to the 
discussion. Speaking of Esau he said : "Has it 
come to that ! Life reduced to repentance — repent- 
ance vain ! Disembowelled life ! An epitaph of 
two words, Born — Died ! Alas what doth tempta- 
tion !" He uttered no uncertain sound on the sub- 
ject of future punishment : "God says thou shalt 
surely die. Satan says thou shalt not surely die. 
Reject, young man, any theory that promises any 
probation beyond the grave.' 1 

There are many noted churches in London — 
City Road Chapel, already noticed, Westminster 
Abbey, which contains the dust of kings, queens 
and warriors, painters, poets and sculptors, states- 
men, philosophers and theologians, all honored 
with appropriate tombs, tablets and epitaphs;, 
one is shown the Jerusalem chamber, where King 
James' and the revised versions were translated. 
A whole day is necessary to do the ponderous pile.. 
St. Paul's is the third largest church in the world 
and is also a receptacle for such heroes as Wel- 
lington, Nelson, Sir Christopher Wren, the archi- 



tect who built it, Reynolds, Samuel Johnson and 
others, making it a kind of "National Temple of 
Fame." 

The Bow Church on Cheapside is one of Wren's 
best works. There is a dragon on the top of the 
steeple 9 feet long. Persons born within hearing 
of the Bow-bells are Cockneys, i. e. true London- 
ers, (B.) 

Newgate, Ludgate, Billingsgate were named after 
the old gates that led through the wall when this 
was a Roman town, and mark the old city limits, 
now miles from the suburbs. 

The Tower, which covers 18 acres, has four ob- 
jects which every visitor should not fail to see, viz:* 

1 : The Crown Jewels in the Wakefield Tow T er, 
Among many other coronets is that of Queen 
Victoria, containing 2700 diamonds. They are 
confined like lions in a circular cage of iron about 
ten feet in diameter. Crowds of people gather 
here daily to behold the* dazzling gems, regalia, 
scepters, &c, valued at £3,000,000 or about $15,- 
000,000. 

The White Tower, the old original Norman 
keep or prison, with walls 15 feet thick, contain- 
ing a very large collection of old armor such as 
was used during several hundred years. 

Leaving the White Tower, the space in front is 
called Tower Green, in this are buried the victims 
of jealousy and and Revenge, in the middle one 
sees a small square paved with granite to indicate 



338 



where the scaffold stood for the execution of 
Queens Anne Boleyn and Katherine, Margaret, 
Lady Jane (Gray) and many other royal unfortu- 
nates. And, 4th, the Beauchamp Tower on the 
west, whose walls are full of inscriptions, cut in 
the stone by the wretches incarcerated there. 

The Bridges, the Equestrian Statues, the Monu- 
ments to statesmen, warriors and discoverers, the 
British Museum, National Gallery, South Ken- 
sington Museum, Madame Tassaud's Waxworks? 
with the Zoological Gardens, Parks, Palaces, 
Houses of Parliament, Palace of Justice, with 
strangely clad justices and barristers, Banks, 
Halls and so on, would require many weeks to see. 

The public ground called a square in America is 
called Circus in London, Piazza in Italy, Place in 
France, and Platz in Germany. 

The dogs in Turkey are curs or Shepherd dogs 
or a mixture, in Vienna the Mastiff predominates, 
and is worked to the market wagon, in London 
the Pug seems to be in the ascendency and is al- 
ways led about by a string. 

The large draught-horses of France, Germany, 
Austria and Belgium are used in England also. T 
would judge them to weigh a ton each, probably 
more. 

The movements of the royal family are chroni- 
cled in England about as in America. It was an- 
announced, one morning, that the Queen would 
take the cars, from Paddington Station, for Wind- 



339 



sor, so I, with multitudes. of others, went out of 
my way to see her. Great crowds gather on, all 
the street-corners, requiring many police to pre- 
serve order. Her face was flushed, she seemed ex- 
cited, but I was unabjje ,to .determine whether it 
was from modesty, irritation at the poor order kept 
by the guards, or a fear oi bombs, or something 
altogether different. The pageant was not over- 
powering, yet somewhat greater than a Presidential 
turnout. 

After a sojourn of three weeks' in London, every 
waking hour of which was turned to the best ac- 
count, I bought a ticket to" Glasgow by way of 
Melrose (called the Waverly Route) and Edin- 
burgh, passing on the way Peterboro the Proud, 
York the Ancient, Durham with its' castle and ca- 
thedral encircled by the river Wear, and Newcastle 
farther on, where T spent about four hours, which 
enabled me to see the old 'castle, built by the son ' 
of William the Conqueror, and Stephenson's great 
bridge over the Tyne and his monument. ; 

I reached Melrose "about o o'clock, P. M., and 
met in the Abbey a gentleman from West Virginia. 
We remained until about dark and listened to the 
custodian, who never tired showing the resting 
places of those buried within its walls- and telling 
of their heroic deeds, such as Douglas, King Rob- 
ert Bruce, whose heart is. buried there, Michael 
Scott the famous Wizard, Murdoch, the first Mas- 
ter of Melrose Lodge A.R and A. M., which, w,i|h 



34o 

Kilwinning is said to be the oldest in Scotland, 
and many others : 

" Within the pile no common dead 
Lay blended with their kindred mould : 
Theirs was the hearts that prayed or bled, 
In cloister dim or death-plain red, 

The pious and the bold." 
" The pillared arches over their head," 

the finest in finish of any I saw anywhere, en- 
gaged our attention quite awhile. " One cloister, 
along the whole length of which there runs a cor- 
nice of flowers and plants, entirely unrivalled, to 
my mind, by anything elsewhere extant, I do not 
say in Gothic architecture merely, but in any ar- 
chitecture whatever." , Just east of the Tower Base 
is a stone in front of a large window in the per- 
pendicular style and just by the tomb of Michael 
Scott the "Wizard" of the "Lay," on which Sir 
Walter used to sit for hours meditating and com- 
posing, often till late at night, for, 

" If thou wouldest view fair Melrose aright 

Go visit it by the pale moon-light. 

Whan buttress and buttress alternately 

Seem framed of ebon and ivory ■ 

When silver edges the imagery, 

And the scrolls that teach thee to live and die : 

When distant Tweed is heard to rave, 

Then go- -but go alone the while — 

Then view St. David's ruined pile ; 

And home returning, soothly swear, 

Was never scene so sad and fair ! ? " 

— Scott. 

Next morning we went up to Abbotsford, Sir 



341 

Walter's home, about three miles from Melrose, 
on the banks of the Tweed. It is a fairy glen, 
favorable for study, with the murmuring Tweed, 
impending hills, flowers, ferns and forestry to in- 
spire his genius. As Rae-Brown says : 

u Scott, with a poet-painter's skill, ■ 
Immortalized lake, tree and hill, 
Till Scotia seemed the brightest gem 
That shone on nature's diadem." 

One is shown his armory, a line selection, con- 
taining the pair of pistols carried by Napoleon 
Bonaparte at Waterloo, with many other valuable 
relics; his library of 20,000 volumes and many 
fine paintings ;' his study, with his desk, book-hold- 
er and the room in which he died, containing a 
bronze cast taken while he lay in state before in- 
terment. 

We spent one day— the Queen's birthday— in 
the learned city of Edinburgh. Queen Street is 
thought by many to be the finest street in the 
world, but the crowd was so great one had to 
struggle to get along instead of leisurely admiring- 
objects of beauty around him. 

We ascended Galton Hill, which gives an ex^ 
tended view, embracing the city of Leith, Arthur's 
seat and the harbor on the Firth of Forth. An 
iron globe that passes up and clown on an iron rod 
is caused to drop down on a percussion cap by 
electricity, discharged by the . chronometer at 
Greenwich ; this fires a cannon precisely at 12 



342 



o'clock, m., every clay. It also contains the Na- 
tional, Nelson and Stewart monuments. Below 
the hill on the way to Holyrood is the monument 
to Robert Burns, at the unveiling of which his 
mother said: "He asked for bread, but they gave 
him a stone," meaning the stone material of which 
it was composed. 

The Castle with the .ancient regalia. of Scotland; 
the room of Mary, Queen of Scots, Queen Margaret's 
Chapel, the smallest church in the' world perhaps, 
Mons. Meg, a historic cannon of 149'7, with the 
Highlanders dressed in helmets plumed with 
ostrich feathers worth $25, and woollen frocks that 
reached only to the knee, the rest of the leg and 
foot being bare, and the Scott monument below 
costing $2,000,000, with its churches and seats 
of learning, all would tempt one to linger in 
this classic town, but only one day remains for 
Glasgow and the country between ere the S. S. 
State of Nebraska will sail for New York and bear 
me to my native land. 

1 Glasgow claims to be the third city of Great 
Britain. Four things consumed my time for one 
day ; the Cathedral, which has one of the finest 
crypts in existence, with 33 columns and 20 pilas- 
ters supporting the ceiling, and stained glass win- 
dows from Munich ; the Necropolis, just over the 
" Bridge of Sighs," that holds, with many others, 
the ashes of John Knox. On his tomb (a single 
Doric column) it is said the regent said at his funeral: 



343 



''Here lieth he who never feared the face of man.'' 
The University, with a museum of rare collec- 
tions, and the .Shipyards on the Clyde, where 
are made the great ocean-going steamers ; fully 
one hundred were in course of construction, made 
throughout of iron. They are built on an inclined; 
plane, on a line cutting the shore diagonally, audi 
are launched stern foremost. 

Many emigrants sail from Glasgow to America. 
About 200 were on the State of Nebraska. Fully 
2500 people were on the wharf to see her sail and 
bid friends adieu ; some wept, some laughed, 
while others cheered. 

There is a solemnity about the sailing of a steam - 

, ship laden with passengers bound for some foreign 

land. What fate awaits them, who can tell ? Many 

have gone with as gleeful spirits as they, and- were 

never heard of again. 

Slowly we moved down the Clyde and reached 
Larne, the harbor of Belfast, next morning early, 
where we spend the day giving passengers oppor- 
tunity to run up to Belfast while the ship com- 
pletes her cargo. , 

One of the pleasant features of a sea-voyage is 
the number of nice people one meets. I was very 
fortunate on this trip., There were five ministers 
aboard, two of whom were Methodists, three w;©re 
Presbyterians. We were eleven days crossing, in- 
cluding two Sundays. On one of these Mr. Lang- 
ley, of Canada, preached, and I on the second. 



34- 



During the day there was music and many kinds 
of games, for those fond of amusement, and a good 
library for those who wish to read, while others 
write letters. Still others look for whales and ice- 
bergs. We had two concerts and charades at night. 

I greatly enjoyed the association of Dr. Hobbs, 
a young alumnus of Johns Hopkins, who had been 
to Germany to study there. He belongs to the U. 
S. Coast Survey and is the author of a learned 
treatise on the "Rocks occurring in the neighbor- 
hood of Ilchester, Maryland." I enjoyed no less 
the acquaintance of the Rev. B. Langley and wife 
and the Rev. Jas. Lanman and wife whom I met 
on the Luther Platz in Worms. It is with good 
reason that I remember Mr. Lanman. When about 
to enter New York, he approached me and said : 
" Brb. Groome, the good Lord has given me more 
than I need, and I wish to make you a present. 
I have had a clerical suit of Clothes made and I 
do not like them, if you will accept them they are 
yours." 

Since reaching home, new attestations of an en- 
viable place in his esteem have reached me, not 
less appreciable than the one on deck of the 
Steamship State of Nebraska. 

On the morning of June 5th we passed Sandy 
Hook, the Statue of Liberty, and soon stood on 
American soil. 

My heart thanked that faithful Friend under 
whose protecting hand our ship had reached this 



345 



shore in safety and whose defenses had been about 
me since January. I had travelled so many 
thousands of miles without accident, sickness, 
loss of any kind, (except a package sent home by 
a friend) or even missing a single connection by 
rail or steamer, or receiving a line of news from 
home to rob my journey of enjoyment. 

" 'Tis sweet to hear the watch-dog's honest bark, 
Bay deep-mouthed welcome as we draw near home ; 
'Tis sweet to know there is an eye will mark 
Our coming, and look brighter when we come.'' 

Within a few hours after landing I was amongst 
loved ones again and had multiplied reasons to be 
grateful that, as ever before, so now I had return- 
ed to find all well. 

" Blessed be the name of the Lord, because His 
mercy endureth forever." 

FINIS. 



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